SAUCES PART II – CLASSICS ARE HOLIDAY HELPERS
Using the Classic Sauces as a helping hand during the holidays and after.
Let’s face it, planning and preparing a big holiday dinner can be stressful. When the holidays are close together, the stress level rises and the dinners seem to run into each other. Add a little entertaining along with regular family meals and the stress can reach the max. Food is coming in for the next event, while the leftovers from the last are still lurking around, asking to be used.
This is where sauces can be such a help. They already have a reputation for dressing up a simple dish, and for giving leftovers versatility but did you know they can preserve food, allowing a recipe to be made ahead, even frozen, by keeping it moist? This is especially true of the clear pan sauces, but can be done with a classic Veloute sauce, and for short periods with a White or Bechamel. An entree can be ready ahead and heated as the guests arrive Turkey chili is another way to use and freeze leftovers to serve at a later time. Examples are given here later.
I go into detail about the classic French sauces in my book Savvy Sauces and Gravy, but during this busy season you don’t need a lesson in French cuisine, you need an easy helping hand. So I’m listing the “Mother Sauces” with a description of each below. You can decide which best answers your present kitchen dilemma. My guess is that the first two will solve most of your problems or a combination of both. If you read the recipes, you will see that many such combinations are possible by simply replacing part of the milk in the Bechamel with another liquid
I’m also going to repeat the basic recipe for making sauces from last week’s post, but notice that I’m only giving one method. Classic sauces always start with a roux, not slurry. Quantities given are to state ingredient proportion and can be adjusted to fit the need.
1) Perhaps the most familiar of the major sauces is The Basic White Sauce or Bechamel. This is made by stirring 4 Tbs. melted butter with 4 Tbs. flour into a smooth paste, or Roux, then adding 2 cups cold milk and stirring constantly over medium heat until it thickens into a smooth sauce.
2) Sauce Veloute is different from Bechamel only in that in its classic form, the milk is replaced with chicken or fish stock. Beef and vegetable stocks are accepted as well. The sauce is finished with 2 egg yolks beaten and combined with 3 Tbs. crème fraiche or sour cream. Gradually add about ½ cup of the hot sauce to the egg mixture, then add the eggs to the pot of sauce and stir until thick and heated through. This yolk mix is called a “liaison”.
3) Sauce Hollandaise should be made in a heavy enameled pot or double boiler with a whisk. Hollandaise can’t be served more than lukewarm and reheating curdles it. The ingredients are standard, but the method or methods, because there are 4 of them, are a bit trickier. To make Hollandaise you need: 1 ½ sticks clarified butter (this is easiest put into a plastic squeeze bottle), 4 egg yolks, 1 Tbs. cold water,1/4 tsp. salt, dash of pepper, and 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice. The simplest way to make the sauce is: Combine the egg yolks and water and whisk constantly over low heat until a custard forms. Still whisking, add the butter a drop at a time then in a fine stream, then add seasonings and lemon juice. Remove from heat and pour into a serving dish.
4) The Mother of all brown sauces is The Demi-Glace. It takes more time than the light sauces and requires more ingredients, but it’s simple to make and it freezes well to make other sauces on demand. The recipe calls for 2 onions and 2 carrots diced and in equal amounts, sautéed in ¼ lb. butter over low heat for about 30 min, adding 1 Tbs. sugar for the last 10 min. to carmelize the mix. Stir in 3 Tbs. flour and cook for 3 min. until it begins to brown, then add: 3 cups stock: 2 cloves minced garlic, Bouquet Garni, 1 Tbs. tomato paste, pinch of salt, dash of pepper and simmer for 1 hr. Strain into a clean pan, add 1 Tbs. Cognac and 1 Tbs. Madeira and brown food coloring if needed. If freezing, omit the Cognac and Madeira until ready to use.
5) Sauce de Tomate seems a bit of a contradiction in terms according to the definition of a sauce. The Italians are more specific calling their version a Ragu or gravy rather than a sauce. The difference is that the finished French product is a smooth silky fluid. It calls for: 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 stalk of celery and 2 cloves of garlic, minced and sautéed in 4 Tbs. butter for 20 min. Stir in flour and cook for 3 min .Add 1 cup stock, 4 cups diced tomatoes (or 3 cups whole canned) 1 Tbs. sugar, Bouquet Garni and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for 2 hrs. stirring often and adding water to thin if needed. When done, remove Bouquet Garni and press through a food mill with a fine disk. Alternately blend and press through a sieve. This can be frozen for later use, but you might want to simply use a good brand of commercial sauce.
6) The first of the cold Mother sauces is Mayonnaise. Classic mayonnaise is made without cooking and depends chiefly on eggs. Due to the prevalence of Salmonella in poultry products, I will not print what could be a dangerous recipe. Rather I suggest you buy a good commercial product and create one of the offspring sauces because they are all made by adding ingredients to the finished mother sauce. It’s far safer.
7) The other cold Mother sauce is Oil and Vinegar. Years ago this was a limited choice, but today there are so many vinegars and oils available, and we have become so familiar with many of them that one could fill books on the options, let alone the additions of herbs and other seasonings that constitute the offspring.
8) The last “Mother” sauce category is Sauces au Buerre or Butter Sauces and it’s a large one, encompassing both cold and hot sauces. The general rule of thumb is that when making hot sauces, clarify the butter or the impurities will burn. Cold butter sauces are called “Compounds.” Since almost anything can be added to butter to make a sauce, the possibilities are endless. Traditionally butter sauces, both hot and cold, were served only with hot foods, but compounds have become increasingly popular as spreads for canapés, sandwiches and other cold dishes which widened the field even further.
Basic general recipe for preparing a ROUX
2) ROUX is usually made with flour. A measured amount of butter or margarine is heated to foam then a measured amount of thickener is stirred in off heat, to make a smooth paste. Quickly add a measured amount of cold liquid, whisking to avoid lumps. The liquid is heated to a simmer and stirred constantly until thick enough, about 3min.
- A) Made with milk or cream this is called a Basic White Sauce or Bechamel and considered one of the “5 Mother” or fundamental sauces of cooking. It is the basis of many recipes, either in its original form, or one of its many variations. It can be made with skim milk for the diet conscious, or with wine, broth or juice to fit the occasion or sweetened for desserts.
ROUX: Rules for the Basic White Sauce
1) Be sure the butter or margarine are foaming. Then remove from heat at once.
2) The blending of fat and thickener must be a smooth paste
3) The liquid should be room temperature or below when added to the paste. Add it all at once and whisk or stir vigorously to make sure it’s all incorporated before heating it to avoid lumps.
4) Stir constantly until it reaches a simmer and achieves desired thickness, about 3 min.
PROPORTIONS:
THIN: 1 Tbs. flour or ½ Tbs. cornstarch + 1 Tbs. butter per 1 cup liquid = Soups
MEDIUM: 2 Tbs. flour or 1 Tbs. cornstarch +2 Tbs. butter per 1 cup liquid =Stews, Gravies, Gratins, Sauces
THICK: 4 Tbs. flour or 2 Tbs. cornstarch + 4 Tbs. butter per 1 ½ cup liquid = Soufflés, accompanying dessert sauces
*TIP: 1 Tbs. = 3 tsp.
EXAMPLES OF DISHES TO BE MADE AHEAD; since both the cauliflower and the sauce are cooked ahead, this dish can be ready in the refrigerator 3 days ahead of the dinner. Bring it to room temperature and bake as directed.
CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN: Serves 4 to 6 (Medium Roux)
1 large head of cauliflower – leaves trimmed off and par-boiled
3 Tbs. flour
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1 ½ cups milk
Garlic powder, salt and pepper to taste-sparingly
¼ cup grated cheddar cheese
½ cup grated Parmesan
Paprika
Place the cauliflower in an oven proof serving dish. Make a roux of the butter, flour and milk then cook into a white sauce adding the garlic, salt and pepper. As it finishes add the cheddar cheese until it melts. Correct seasonings, and pour over the cauliflower. Cover with the grated Parmesan, and sprinkle with Paprika, Bake in a pre-heated 350 deg. oven 30 to 40 min. or until golden and bubbling. Serve at once.
CHICKEN (OR TURKEY) DIVAN: Serves 4
1 lb. broccoli = 1large bunch or 1 lb. bag frozen pieces, thawed
3 Tbs. Butter
3 Tbs. flour
14 oz. can chicken or turkey broth
¼ cup cream
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper to taste
4 chicken breast halves cooked or leftover turkey in equal amount
Cut broccoli into large chunks and boil in water until jest crisp. If using frozen, simply immerse in boiling water to blanche. In a saucepan make a roux with the butter and flour, stir in the broth to make a sauce. Stir in the cream and half the cheese. In a lightly greased 2 qt. casserole, layer half the broccoli, then the meat, then half the sauce, then the rest of the broccoli cover with the remaining sauce and top with the cheese. When cool, cover with foil and store in freezer for up to 3 weeks. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator and bring to room temperature. Heat, covered, in a 350 deg. oven 40-50 min. uncovering the last 10 min.
EXAMPLE OF PRESENTING LEFTOVERS WITH FLAIR:
CHICKEN A LA KING: Serves 4 :
2 whole chicken breasts, split, boned skinned or equivalent amount of leftover chicken or turkey meat
(1) 4 oz. can mushroom caps – larger ones cut in half- drained, liquid reserved
(1) 2.5oz can sliced ripe olives OR half a can of Jumbo Ripe Olives cut in half lengthwise
4 jarred fire-roasted red peppers in wide julienne
6 Tbs. flour
2 cups milk + mushroom water and milk to equal a third
1 envelope or 1 Tbs. chicken bouillon granules
Pinch garlic powder and pinch curry powder
Salt and pepper to taste – if needed
Sliver of butter-optional
Parsley to garnish
Poach chicken. Dissolve flour in liquids, add seasonings and bouillon, and stirring constantly, bring to a simmer over medium heat. Continue stirring until thickened about 3 min. Gently add chicken, remaining ingredients, except the parsley and heat through. Add butter at the end to smooth if needed.
Serve hot in prepared patty shells or over toast points, garnished with parsley
There are many ways to vary this recipe to use leftover poultry. For example, increase the curry powder to 1tsp. or to taste; substitute canned peach slices for the mushrooms and peppers, and peach juice for the mushroom water. Or use a large peeled apple, cut in chunks and microwaved with 2 Tbs. water and ½ tsp. sugar for about 2 min. in place of the peaches and juice. Cook as above and serve over rice. Either way it makes a satisfying curry dinner.
The whole point is to make the holiday season more relaxing and fun. So why not let sauces help?
See you next time for more ways to ease holiday food prep!
