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Jul 25

Make a Meal of Watermelon

WATERMEON –THROUGHOUT THE MEAL –ALL YEAR

Watermelon is synonymous with summer but it’s really much more than a seasonal icon. It’s a welcome addition to salad dinners because its distinctive, fresh taste and crisp, delicate texture ‘play nice’ with other ingredients. For this reason, and because it’s now readily available all year, watermelon is being paired with lots of different ingredients in a variety of new ways.

Actually, watermelon is full of surprises. Long thought to have evolved in South Africa and migrated north into Asia then Europe, it was classified a vegetable close to cucumbers and pumpkins, because it’s a vine. However, DNA testing with 3,000 yr. old seeds from Egyptian tombs proved that watermelon originated in North Africa and moved north through the Near East probably branching off to Asia and Southern Europe about the same time.

Moreover, watermelon is now re-classified not only as a fruit, but as a berry because the seeds are located throughout the meat, rather than being clustered around a central core and the skin, though thick, is fragile if mishandled. 


The final surprise is that while containing no fat and only about 80 calories per 2 cups, it’s full of vitamins A, B & C, as well as lycopene, a phytochemical being studied now as a preventative for cancer and heart disease. Watermelon is truly a food for the 21st century.

Watermelons are harvested in the U.S. from April to November and imported ones are in stores from October through June. They come in several colors, yellow, pink, red and white but all have the same nutritional value. Generally, the larger the riper and sweeter, so test them by slapping them with the open palm. A ripe melon will have an almost musical ring. 

Uncut melons will keep for two weeks at room temperature, longer if chilled. Cut melons should be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated but last for several days.

Small families and single individuals usually choose the little Sugar Babies, but in view of the melon’s ability to keep fresh, given a wider variety of uses, the larger ones become an option for those buyers as well. 

I have always loved Watermelon Pickle and found, early on that I can make better than I can buy. So every year, about this time, I renew my annual supply. This results in at least two large bowls of melon meat, which gets watery in a day or so off the rind. There was no problem with the whole family still home and snacking, but in an empty nest one gets ‘watermeloned’ out before one is out of watermelon. At first I made a lot of granita to freeze, but then I looked for other uses.

First, I saw a recipe combining the melon with tomatoes in a salad. When a friend visited, I decided to experiment and made a dinner salad she still raves about. Unstructured salads followed and then other pairings of watermelon with various foods. Now ‘excess’ vanishes.

The recipe for my first salad is below along with others for you to try. Hopefully, watermelon will find a place on your menus all year. Its taste on a cold day is like a ray of warm sunshine, unexpected and most welcome. 

However, there are some restrictions in using watermelon in winter meals because the meat is very delicate. It renders all liquid and collapses into a pulpy mess when heated and wilts when combined with the heavier winter vegetables. So, though it may not figure into cold weather entrees there are still side salads, first courses, desserts, smoothies and ‘beverages’, especially the ‘beverages’ which know no season. As I said, now that watermelon is available all year, there’s a place for it in your menus all year.

RECIPES– Remove the seeds or use a seedless melon before making any recipe. Watermelon perks up with a pinch of salt and a dash of citrus, preferably lime over lemon. If looking for an extra flavor boost, add crumbled feta cheese. It has a special affinity for watermelon. Nuts are a great garnish, especially pistachios and peanuts. I like the dry roasted ones.

Watermelon Pickle: Traditional recipe
Remove the meat and cut the green skin off the rind. Cut the white pith into about 1 inch pieces. Cover with well salted water and soak for 12 hrs. Drain and cover with fresh water and boil rapidly for about 10 min. until crisp tender and drain. For every pound of rind allow
1 cup water
1 cup vinegar
2 cups sugar
2-3 inches stick cinnamon
8 cloves
1 oz. fresh ginger root-sliced
Boil these ingredients until they form a syrup. Add the rind and return to a boil. Remove from heat and cool. Place in clean glass jars with tightly screwed tops. Store chilled. Keeps for years if kept cold. Excellent in place of sweet pickles or accompanying poultry.

Watermelon Caprese Canapes: Per piece
Thread on longer toothpicks a cube of melon, a large, fresh basil leaf and a small ball of fresh Mozzarella. The cheese can first be lightly marinated in a vinaigrette or flavored oil if desired.

Spicy Watermelon Salsa: Yield about 1 qt.- From allrecipes.com
3 cups chopped watermelon Per piece
Thread on longer toothpicks a cube of melon, a large, fresh basil leaf and a small ball of fresh Mozzarella. The cheese can first be lightly marinated in a vinaigrette or flavored oil if desired.

Spicy
½ cup chopped green bell pepper
2 Tbs. lime juice
2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
1 Tbs. chopped scallions
1 Tbs. chopped jalapeno
½ tsp. garlic salt
In a large bowl, combine the watermelon, green bell pepper, lime juice, cilantro, green onions, jalapeno and garlic salt. Mix well and serve cold.

Watermelon Gazpacho: Serves 4- From Food Tips and Cooling Tricks by David Joachim
6 cups watermelon cubes
1 peeled, seeded, cubed cucumber
½ chopped yellow bell pepper
3 chopped scallions
1 ½ chopped garlic cloves
2 Tbs. lemon juice
2 tsp. olive oil
½ tsp. hot sauce
1 cup chilled cranberry juice
3 Tbs. chopped fresh mint
Process ½ the melon with the next 7 ingredients until evenly chopped. Add reserved melon, juice and mint and process just until chopped. Serve chilled.

Watermelon-Shrimp Salad with Avocado: Serves 4-6 – From Real Simple
1 pound frozen, fully cooked medium shrimp
1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
4 cups watermelon, roughly chopped
2 jalapeños, seeded and finely chopped
2 avocados, roughly chopped
Vinaigrette
Juice of 1 lime
1 teaspoon honey
3 tablespoons olive oil
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves, roughly chopped + leaves for garnish
Torn lettuce leaves for bedding, optional
Combine the vinaigrette ingredients and mix well. Arrange the salad ingredients on a platter or plates and drizzle with the dressing. Garnish with the reserved cilantro leaves.

Steak and Watermelon Salad: Serves 4—by Judy Kim for Delish (NOT the salad shown)

1. Tbs. brown sugar

1. tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. chili powder
Flank steak
2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 cups arugula greens
1/4 cup Chopped red onion
1 cup croutons
2 cups watermelon, cut into chunks
1/2 cup feta
Sea salt
In a small bowl mix brown sugar, garlic powder and chili powder. Massage all over steak. Preheat grill or cast-iron grill pan on high heat. Grill steak for 5 minutes on each side, then let meat rest for 3 to 4 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large bowl mix together vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper. Toss in arugula, onion, croutons and watermelon.
Slice the meat against the grain. Serve steak with watermelon panzanella salad and top with feta and a sprinkle of sea salt.

My Watermelon-Tomato Salad with Fish: Serves 2
½ lb. firm fish-baked or broiled- I like Monkfish- cooked chicken is also good. A Louis Kemp product can be used as well.
2 medium tomatoes in thin wedges
2 cups watermelon in rough chunks
3 scallions sliced on an angle
Salt and pepper to taste
4 cups green leaf lettuce – torn in bite sized pieces
Balsamic vinaigrette-commercial or DIY
Separate the meat into chunks, avoid cutting if possible. Place all the salad ingredients in a large bowl gently toss and plate. Drizzle with some dressing and pass the rest.

Watermelon-Orange Salad with Prosciutto: Serves 4-From Food Tips and Cooling Tricks by David Joachim
3 cups roughly chopped watermelon
3 oranges in segments
4 slices red onion
2 Tbs. chopped mint
3 oz. sliced prosciutto
2 bunches arugula-torn
Dressing
½ cup oil
1 tsp. lemon or lime zest
½ tsp. EACH Dijon mustard and salt
½ garlic clove mashed
¼ cup lemon or lime juice.
Mix all dressing ingredients. Arrange salad ingredients in a platter or plates and drizzle with the dressing.

Watermelon Granita: Serves 4- From 1-2-3 Ingredient Menu-Cookbook by Rozanne Gold
4 cups diced watermelon
¾ cup sugar
½ cup chocolate chips
Puree the melon and sugar until sugar is dissolved and mix is smooth. Place the mix in a shallow metal pan and freeze until slushy. Break it up with a fork and return it to the freezer. Repeat the process as it begins to harden until fully frozen, about every 20 min., usually about 6 times. Serve by scraping spoonfuls from the surface. Garnish with chocolate chips as ‘seeds’.

Watermelon Slush: Serves 4
2 cups diced watermelon
1 cup white grape juice
1 Tbs. EACH lime juice and honey
Freeze melon. Blend half with the other ingredients until smooth, then add the 2nd cup of watermelon and, optionally 2 Tbs. of rum or other liqueur and blend just to a slush. Serve at once.

Nana’s Cooler:

My grandmother made a refreshing drink by pureeing the meat and straining the pulp. Add salt and chill, serve with a lime wedge and if available a sprig of mint. This doesn’t say “no” to a jigger of vodka, gin or tequila.

Tipsy Watermelon

Cut a plug about 2 inches square and deep in a melon. Pierce the meat several times with an ice pick or similar utensil and pour in liquor of choice, rum, brandy, wine something that will add flavor, filling melon. Replace plug and refrigerate melon 24 hrs. turning occasionally. Cut melon open and serve cut marinated meat and serve with juices.

Watermelon cocktails are trending -check the web.

Jul 18

All About Seafood

ALL ABOUT SEAFOOD

This is an all too familiar dilemma, especially now, during Lent. When buying seafood, we’re confronted by an increasing, constantly changing variety of choices, some often new to us. With such selection, buying can be a learning experience. Rapid transport, excellent refrigeration and safe handling have opened seafood to international options, not just in cities, but in small inland towns. Aqua-farming has made more products available and widened the price range too. Salmon fillets, once considered upscale are sold in dollar stores as is Tilapia, introduced in the U.S. in the late 1980s-early 1990s, now a mainstay.

That’s good news in the U.S. because we over-fished our waters almost a century ago but didn’t begin to address the situation for about 50 years. In the 1970s seafood, especially fish, began to be promoted as a ‘healthy’ food and demand bloomed, exposing the problem. Until then the question was ”Do you like seafood?” Now it’s “What’re your favorite seafood recipes?” implying that people not only eat it frequently, but cook it at home as well, which is true.

The growing worldwide demand for seafood and the increasing desire to explore, improve, even create different cuisines, plus the interest in actually cooking food, naturally led to international resourcing. There are few variations and/or additions to the shellfish and mollusks categories but the number of fish species available has exploded.

Walking up to the supermarket fish counter or entering a fish store can be an exotic experience. It’s leveled off a bit, but there’s often a new item with an unfamiliar name. At times like those, it’s wise to depend on the fish monger’s advice but in order to take full advantage of it, you should be aware of the classifications of the fish familiar to you. You should know the general texture, taste range and oil content of the major types, how they cook and which ones fit certain dishes. Then you have a frame of reference and can make informed purchasing decisions, especially if a substitution is required, or if you want to try something new.

All About Seafood is a short, informative book which will give you the confidence to shop for seafood. It itemizes and describes shellfish and mollusks, categorizes the most familiar fish species, tells how to judge freshness and gives advice on portion sizing to calculate weight. You will also feel confident as you return home with your purchase because the book has instructions on cleaning, filleting and skinning fish as well as safe-handling, storing and general cooking directions with some illustrative recipes, including suggestions for serving canned fish. It’s a lot of content for $2.99.

For example, shrimp is one of the most popular foods, but sizing as related to portioning is often gives us pause in purchasing, particularly since they’re most frequently sold in multiple pound bags. This convenient chart, from the book, will make things a lot simpler. It’s just one of the helpful pieces of information you’ll find there. Average serving =About ½ lb. as solo ingredient, less in combination dishes.

Shrimp (Colossal) 10 or less per pound

Shrimp (Jumbo) 11-15 per pound

Extra Large 16-20 per pound

Large 21-30 per pound

Medium 31-35 per pound

Small 36-45 per pound

Miniature 100 per pound

Incidentally, ‘prawn’ is an older term for shrimp, but now usually connotes the very large ones intended for grilling and stuffing. ‘Scampi’ is simply the Italian word for ‘shrimp’. So ‘Shrimp Scampi’ on U.S. menus is an oxymoron really translating ‘shrimp shrimp’, although it’s come to mean shrimp in garlic-butter sauce, a popular dish in Italy. Here’s a different way to serve them, a recipe from the book:

Shrimp Kabobs: Serves 4

Cubes of Monkfish, Salmon steak, Swordfish, even Tuna steaks will work in place of shrimp:

2 lbs. extra-large (26-30 count) raw shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails on

2 Tbs. olive oil

1 tsp. Tabasco

1 tsp. Worcestershire Sauce

2 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary or equal amount dried

3 cloves minced garlic

1 tsp. dried oregano

¼ tsp. allspice powder

2 lemons – one juiced one in quarters

Kosher salt to taste

Barbeque Sauce***

Skewers

Mix all the ingredients but the salt and quartered lemon in a bowl large enough to hold the shrimp. Add the shrimp and marinate, covered at room temperature at least 1 hr. or several hours in the refrigerator. Thread shrimp head to tail on as many skewers as necessary – long metal ones require about 4. Preheat broiler or grill, and cook shrimp until pink and beginning to brown, basting frequently with the marinade. Sprinkle with salt. Serve with lemon quarters, and pepper.

***The Barbeque Sauce is for optional dipping

Want to see some more? 

Broiled Scallops: Serves 4

1 ½ pt. Sea Scallops or about 1 ½ lb. equal to between 4 to 6 per person depending on size

2 Tbs. butter

1 cup milk – optional

Fine bread crumbs or Panko – optional

Paprika

1 lemon – quartered

Wash scallops well and blot dry on paper towels. Preheat broiler, if using, or burner if pan broiling. For a crispy look, dip scallops in milk then in crumbs  Place scallops in a greased dish, crumb side up, sprinkle with paprika, dot with the butter and broil about 3 – 5 min. or until browned and opaque.. Do not turn. Serve at once with lemon wedges
To pan broil, melt butter in skillet over medium heat and add scallops. Sauté until brown on one side, @ 2 min. Turn scallops cook on other side @ 2 min or until opaque.. Plate.

Smoked Salmon in Pasta with Vodka Sauce: Serves 4

(1) 20 oz. can crushed tomatoes OR 11/2 lbs. fresh Plum tomatoes skinned, seeded finely chopped

1 cloves garlic – mashed

1 medium onion – diced

1 Tbs. oil or butter

½ cup Vodka

½ cup heavy cream

(1) 8oz package sliced, smoked Salmon

1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley

1 lb. of shaped pasta – bowties are traditional

Dash of red pepper – optional

Slice salmon in 1 inch pieces. In a skillet over medium heat, sauté the onion in the oil or butter for 2 min., add the garlic and cook 1 min more. Add the tomatoes, lower the heat. and simmer about 10 min., to reduce slightly and mash a bit, Add the vodka and simmer 5 min more. Add the cream, stir to incorporate well and simmer another 5 min. Gently add the salmon and heat through, stirring very little to avoid tearing the meat, about 15 sec. Cook the pasta al dente while the tomatoes are simmering. Drain and, while still hot, gently pour into the skillet, then turn the contents of the skillet onto a platter, and apportion on 4 plates, gently guiding it with a wooden spoon. The object is to have the pasta fully coated with the sauce, while leaving the meat pieces intact. Sprinkle with the fresh parsley, and serve.

There are at least 40 postings of fish recipes on this site, plus more recipes embedded in posts on quick meals, cold diners and soups. So please scan the panorama on the Home Page.  However, may I suggest: Grilling Fish July 6, 2017,   Popular Fish Recipes July 13, 2017    Salmon Recipes Feb. 15, 2018,   , Tilapia Recipes  Feb. 22, 2018,    Cold Salmon June 12, 2018,   , Fish Salads Aug. 18, 2022.

Here’s the Table of Contents. To find the book, click the links or the Book/Products button on the page header. It’s also available on Kindle for $2.99.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION –Page 2

FISH – – Page 3

General Rules about Fish – – Page 3

Types and substitutions – Page 4

Safe Handling Fish – Page 4

Salt Water fish – -Page 4

Fresh Water fish – – Page 4

Shark – -Page 5

Preparing fish – – Page 5

Small fish – – Page 5

Large Fish – – Page 5

How to Skin a Fish Fillet- – Page 5

Preferences- -Page 6

Taste – – Page 6

Fresh- -Page 6

Frozen – – Page 7

       Frozen – – Page 7

SHELLFESH – –   Page 7

    Lobster – – Page 7

    Crab – – Page 8

    Shrimp – – Page 9

    Crawfish or Crayfish – – Page 10

MOLLUSKS – – Page 10

     Clams – – Page 10

     Oysters – – Page 11

     Mussels – – Page 12

      Scallops- – Page 12

     Abalone – – Page 12

     Conch – – Page 13

     Cockles – – Page 13

     Snails – – Page 13

CANNED FISH – – Page 14

      Tuna – – Page 14

       Salmon – – Page 15

       Mackerel – – Page 15

LISTINGS – – Page 15

      Shrimp Sizes – -Page 16

      Types of Fish – – Page 16

      Salt and Fresh Water Fish- – Page 17

RECIPES – – Page 17

Jul 11

9 EASY DIY ICY DESSERTS FOR SUMMER

9 EASY DIY ICY DESSERTS FOR SUMMER

Last week I talked about how simple it is to make an Ice Cream Soda but there are other cooling treats which are just as easy. In this time of higher food costs, when ice cream novelty prices rival steak, it’s convenient and cost efficient to have some DIYs on hand, especially if you have kids.

Some of these recipes are ‘older’ in the sense that they’re classics, but they can showcase the seasonal fruits and fit this function. They’re easy to make but do need time. The best thing about these icy treats is that they can be prepared, not just ’ahead’ but waaaay ahead, a couple of weeks in fact, and popped out of the freezer at will. 

A few years ago home ice-cream makers were hot items. I confess I bought one and have made a few concoctions, banana, pineapple-ginger and blueberry, which were pretty good, but I had one major problem. They require a lot of free freezer space and I don’t have that but I do like having something icy- sweet on hand. The answer is in making ice-cream and its alternatives, granita, sherbet, sorbet, semifreddo and gelato, the old-fashioned way. I’ve been doing it, and it works out well, in fact I’ve even made some on a stick for easy eating especially for children. (There’s a short-cut recipe below for that!)

I give descriptions of each of these types of dessert below, with recipe examples. Naturally, it’s understood that the flavors can be changed at will. The basic formulas define the differences between them and outline the choice options. Here’s a tip though, most are healthier than ice-cream. However, if you’re still interested in the ‘real thing’ I’m including a recipe for ice-cream made the original way—without a machine.


I do want to warn that many current magazines and recipe sources include the use of raw eggs, especially the whites. For anyone concerned over Salmonella, I recommend substituting Wilton Meringue Powder in any recipe that calls for directly adding raw beaten egg whites. It’s available at all bakery supply stores and craft stores that sell baking equipment such as A.C.Moore.  A bit of evaporated milk can also add a creamy texture. Another helpful note is to follow the ingredient quantities exactly and be sparing with any alcohol based flavorings. Both excess sugar and alcohol deter freezing and that’s a disaster with these dishes.

The recipes are divided into two groups of three. The first is water based and the second dairy. Granita and semifreddo can’t be made in machines; the others can, following the individual manufacturer’s directions. You will notice that several of the recipes like sherbet and sorbet seem similar. The main distinction is in the product’s purpose. Sorbet, made from fruit juice or juiced fruit, is lighter and often used as a ‘palate cleanser’ between courses during a multi course meal, or a light finish to a heavy or rich one. Sherbet, based on pureed fruit, is a dessert. (There’s a shortcut included in the recipe below.) Gelato is a bit less caloric and cholesterol laden than ice-cream (or Italian vrs. French.)

RECIPES

Basic Granita: Serves 4
1 ½ cups water
½ cup sugar
½ cup juice or other flavoring liquid- or extract squeezed from pureed fruit*
¼ cup lemon or lime juice
Pinch salt – optional
Additional flavorings-spices, herbs and/or garnishes—optional
Over low heat dissolve sugar in water, remove from heat and add flavoring liquid and juice, cool and put into a metal 9 X 13 inch pan. Freeze, scraping with a fork to break up every 20-30 min., for 2-3 hours until resembles fluffy shaved ice. Keep in a covered container in the freezer for about 1 week. Scrape to fluff before serving. (The ice chips don’t clump during storage.)
*I often make this with cranberry juice, but other juices and liquids like coffee, green tea(matcha) even flat soda pop and pureed, strained fruits can be used as well. For example, it can be made with meat from ½ a watermelon, blended and squeezed through a sieve. Small amounts of liquor can also be added but beware the alcohol prevents freezing so use only enough to give taste. With some mixtures a dash of pepper is nice. The flavoring options are endless.

My Plum Sherbet: Serves 4-5
(2) 15 oz. cans of plums, with juice (or other fruit) Pits removed
1/8 tsp. powdered ginger-or spice suitable for selected fruit
Puree the fruit and juice until completely smooth.  Freeze in metal or plastic container for several hours until frozen through. Puree again. This aeriates the mixture and smooths the texture. Freeze until firm,
usually overnight. Store in plastic, with a piece of plastic wrap over the top.


Orange-Campari Sorbet: Serves 4-6*
Juice of 3-4 large oranges strained, to make ½ cup*
½ cup superfine or bar sugar-or slightly more to taste
21/2 cups water
3 Tbs. Campari
2 large egg whites
Mint leaves to garnish
If using fresh oranges, remove peel, without white pith, from 3 of them. Dissolve sugar in water over low heat then boil for 2 min. without stirring, wiping down pan sides with a wet brush. Pour mixture into a non-metallic shallow, freezer safe container with a cover and add orange peel to steep while mixture cools. When cool add strained orange juice and Campari; cover and chill for at least 30 min. Remove zest and freeze for 1 hour. Transfer mixture to a bowl and beat to break-up ice crystals. Return to freezer container and freeze for 30 min. Repeat twice more. Beat egg whites to stiff peaks and beat into juice mixture and freeze for 30 min. Beat once more. Store covered for 2 months. Serve by the scoop.
*Strained commercial juice can be used and flavors are optional—omitting the Campari.

Melon Sherbet: Serves 6-8
1 medium melon-cantaloupe or casaba
Juice of ½ lemon
4 egg whites
6 oz., sugar-super-fine or ’bar’ sugar is best
¼ -1/2 cup cherries or berries for garnish-optional
Fresh mint leaves for garnish-optional
Cut the melon in half, in a zigzag pattern if to be used it for serving. Remove seeds and cube meat. Blend with the lemon juice until smooth. Pour into a 1 ½ quart container and freeze until beginning to set. Beat the egg whites until stiff and gradually add the sugar. Gently whisk or beat the melon mixture until broken up and light. Fold in the egg whites and return to the freezer and freeze until firmly set. Serve by the scoopful, in the melon shell or dishes. Garnish with fruit and/or mint. Keeps frozen about 1 month.
NOTE: Choose overripe fruit to make sherbet, or blanch it if not quite ripe. It freezes smoother.
A short cut to making sherbet is to freeze a can of fruit in syrup. Puree the frozen contents and combine with eggs and optional ingredients, adjusting quantities to fit the basic recipe. Examples: Peaches with almond extract or Litchi with ginger.

Semifreddo: Serves 6-8
3 eggs
2 egg yolks
3/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon flavor extract—almond, vanilla etc. –optional but advised
2 egg whites*–also optional recipe
2 cups whipping cream – well chilled
Line a 5 x 9inch loaf pan or 3 quart capacity dish with plastic wrap leaving generous overhangs on long sides.
Place the eggs, egg yolks, flavor extract and ½ the sugar if making meringues, all if not, in a heat proof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water, (a double boiler or Bain Marie). Using a hand held mixer, beat the mixture for 6-8 minutes until custard is pale and thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from heat and beat for an additional 4-6 minutes until cool. In a separate bowl, beat the whipping cream until thick. Gently fold into the egg mixture until smooth. *If adding meringue- beat egg whites in a clean Bain Marie or double boiler over simmering water until soft peaks form, add sugar and continue beating until billowy and glossy. Fold into the eggs and cream. Freeze until firm, at least 6 hours but better overnight, unmold and slice to serve-DO NOT SCOOP OR SPOON.
Note: Semifreddo is intended to contain a mixture of flavors. Chopped fruit, ground nuts or fruit purees are usually incorporated into the whole or just one layer (see puree directions below) to give a color and flavor contrast. 4 oz. of finely chopped chocolate can be added to the custard while hot to make a chocolate semifreddo or just 2 oz. to half the custard to make just one layer. This means the whipped cream and meringue will have to be added in half portions as well.

Berry Puree:
2 cups blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
To make the puree, combine the berries and powdered sugar in a food processor and pulse until smooth. Taste and adjust sugar if necessary. Strain through a mesh strainer.
To make swirls, spoon the blueberry puree over the top and use a spatula to gently fold it into the cream. Otherwise gently fold it into half the finished mixture and pour it into the mold first to make a bottom layer.


Gelato: Serves 4*
6 large eggs
¾ cup superfine or bar
¼ cups milk
1/3 cup heavy cream
1tsp.flavoring-vanilla, butterscotch, mint etc. –optional
2 oz. finely chopped dark chocolate, butterscotch, nuts, candied fruit or cookie crumbs
Beat the eggs and sugar in the top of a double boiler or Bain Marie, until creamy. Stirring, heat the milk and cream to a simmer and add it in a stream to the egg mix while whisking. Heat the mixture in the double boiler over medium heat, stirring constantly until it coats the back of a spoon or the spoon pulled across it leaves a mark on the surface.in. Remove from the heat and add flavoring. Allow to cool at least 1 ½ hr. then chill for 30 min. Strain to remove any lumps, transfer to a freezer container and freeze for 2 hrs. until frozen 1 inch from the sides. Transfer to a bowl and beat until smooth. Stir in chocolate etc., return to the freezer container, smooth the top and lay a piece of plastic wrap directly on top. Cover and freeze for up to 3 months.

Vanilla Ice Cream: Serves 4-6 *
2 ½ cups heavy cream
1 vanilla bean
1 pared zest of 1 lemon
4 eggs beaten
2 egg yolks
6oz. superfine or bar sugar
Whisking, bring the cream to a simmer, add the eggs and lemon zest. Lower the heat and cook 8-10 min. still whisking until thickened. Stir in the sugar remove from the heat, let cool and strain. Open the vanilla bean and scrape the seeds into the egg mixture. Pour the mixture into a shallow freezer container allow to just freeze 1-2 hrs. Remove to a bowl, beat and return to the freezer container, cover and freeze overnight or for up to 3 days.
*Although these recipes are basic to the dish, the particular flavoring combinations are from the Summer Foods and Desserts volumes in the Practical Cooking series of book

Quick Banana Pops: Serves 8 in plastic pop sickle molds, 4 in Dixie cups used as molds
1 pt. vanilla ice cream
1 large VERY ripe banana
Wooden sticks if using Dixie cups
While the ice cream softens, mash the banana in a bowl, with a fork until no lumps remain. Combine the two well and fill the molds. Insert the ‘sticks’ and freeze until firm. Rub with a warm cloth to unmold, if necessary. This can also be made in a single mold for table service.*
*If considering substituting other fruits, use them in proportion bearing in mind that bananas have a low pulp/juice ratio and changing that will affect the ability to freeze. Fruits should be very ripe and pureed, then strained if necessary. The addition of sugar depends on the fruit, some powdered may be needed, but remember sugar inhibits freezing, so be sparing.
This tip can also be used to flavor the other dairy based desserts here. Delete the given flavoring agents and replace with the preferred ones. You can use the Berry Puree above as a guide for quantity and swirl (sugar may be needed) or mix (possibly no sugar) into the dessert base ingredients. The best move is to research other recipes for quantities as to specific flavoring agents. Basically any recipe for machine made ice cream type desserts can be processed by hand following the guidelines given here.
Have fun, experiment, be independent and create your flavor for the holiday. For example, the dessert pictured with this post is Espresso Granita garnished with Lemon Thyme. It’s the perfect end to an outdoor dinner, and ’kills two birds with one stone’ because hot coffee isn’t missed.

The above recipes can be frozen in pop sickle molds or other individual serving container.

Jul 4

ICE CREAM SODAS-PERFECT FOR JULY 4th

ICE CREAM SODAS-PERFECT FOR JULY 4th

This is a reprint of one of my most popular posts and a favorite of mine because it’s a perfect fit for this specific time. July 4th is a traditional holiday, without set traditions—except for fireworks. Their exuberance and spontaneity are iconic of this holiday’s mood. Those adjectives describe ice cream sodas too. With only 4 ingredients, hand-made just before serving, the variety and combinations of flavors, as well as sodas’ cooling effect make them a fitting treat for Independence Day.

I don’t remember them in their hay day, when Soda Jerks made coke by the glass from syrup and seltzer, but I do remember the iconic Ice Cream Soda. Nowadays, the only way we sip ice cream through a straw is with milk shakes. Sodas are two-textured, to be sipped and spooned, enjoyed at leisure and ultimately satisfying.

Sadly, sodas seem to have disappeared from popularity along with the fountains. The Ice Cream Soda was a special treat, built by hand, opulent, gleaming and overflowing the glass, served with an ice tea spoon and a straw, it took time to eat. It offered contrasts in taste and texture down to the last drop, and left you feeling satisfied, not just filled.

It always seemed the ideal dish for the Fourth of July, as appropriate to the holiday as pumpkin pie to Thanksgiving. My association is also linked to childhood memories. My Aunt and Cousin always arrived July 1st for the summer and every Friday night, they, my Grandmother, my Mother and I went to the movies and afterward to a popular ice cream parlor for sodas. Nothing tasted so good as the soda on that first Friday, which was always within a few days of the 4th.

I can still remember the choices. My cousin and I stood by our usuals, chocolate for me, strawberry for her, but the women varied their orders regularly. Grandmother liked all vanilla, or asked for peach ice cream or one scoop peach and one strawberry. My Aunt picked a chocolate soda with a ripple ice cream, fudge, caramel or peanut, because she liked the taste tweaks as she ate. My Mother chose a chocolate soda with coffee, pistachio or mint chip ice cream, creating different flavors.

Every so often, at this time of year, I used wax nostalgic and make sodas for my kids and their friends, but mine didn’t generously overflow. I wasn’t into cleaning dippy messes and something else was missing. The kids loved them and were always happy I made them, but to children used to soft-serve cones and take-out shakes everywhere, to whom an ‘ice cream fix’ was opening the freezer door, my ‘special’ magic wasn’t there.

I really would like to see the Ice Cream Soda make a comeback. Anyone can make one. All they need is an ice cream scoop and the flavor options are limitless. If my relatives could consider 11 combinations normal in those conservative food years, when Howard Johnson’s 28 flavors was thought exotic, imagine what could be concocted today. Moreover, it’s easy to create new ones with home machines.

There are also many favors of syrups in the markets now. Additionally, we may not be the basic ’from scratch’ cooks our grandmothers were, but we are adept at accessorizing our dishes and that includes making syrups. I make coffee syrup frequently for Tiramisu. Simple syrup is equally easy and can be flavored with pureed fruit and/or extracts. Lemon curd is available and it’s always possible to turn to old standbys like maple syrup or butterscotch sauce to improvise.

Then there’s the huge variety of flavored seltzers in markets today, white grape, peach, raspberry, lime to name just a few. They can provide interesting contrasts in tastes as well. Using flavored soda isn’t a novel idea either. The famous ‘Brown Cow’ was chocolate syrup, vanilla ice cream and coke.

Which brings me to the ‘kissing cousin’ of the ice cream soda, the Float; simpler than the soda, it’s simply a soda pop, originally, I think, root beer, or other carbonated beverage even beer and ale, poured over a scoop of ice cream. Does anyone still remember root beer? Apparently, however, floats aren’t such dinosaurs as ice cream sodas. Guinness features one made with ale in its current recipe book.

So here’s an idea. July 4th is this week. Why not celebrate a truly American holiday by remembering a traditional American drink? You can even make a party of it, kinda like a sundae party, by offering different ice creams, a variety of seltzers and syrups, even some toppings, whipped cream, cherries, jimmies. Line up the options and let people make their own. It doesn’t have to be a large group, in fact smaller is better, but it is festive.

Just one tip; in choosing the ice cream for a soda, think twice about varieties with larger add-ins, like nuts and candy. They don’t fit in a straw, or worse, clog it, making eating difficult. I wouldn’t advise cookie cough either, not just for that reason, but the soda will partially dissolve it and, being heavy, it will sink, leaving a gummy mass in the bottom of the glass.

Happy Fourth of July all!

RECIPES

Basic Ice Cream Soda Recipe:

Single serving
20 oz. glass
3 Tbs. flavored syrup or + to taste
2 scoops of ice cream
Chilled club soda, seltzer water (Not sparkling mineral water) or other carbonated drink, cola, ginger ale or other pale soda pop.
Pour the syrup into the bottom of the glass; add about of 1 oz. soda and 1 scoop of ice cream. Stir gently around the sides of the ice cream lifting the syrup up around the scoop. Slowly add more soda to fill the glass ¾, mixing the contents gently as you pour. Add the other scoop of ice cream, and fill the glass with the soda water, creating bubbles.

Basic Ice cream Float:

Single serving
20 oz. glass
1 scoop ice cream
Carbonated beverage, including beer or ale.
Fill the glass about ½ full with the liquid, add the ice cream and then pour over the liquid to fill.

Simple Syrup:
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
Combine and heat, stirring, until sugar dissolves. If it seems thin, cook to evaporate water until desired consistency.

Brown Simple Syrup:
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup water
Follow above directions.

Coffee Syrup:
Method 1) Make either above syrup with strong coffee in place of water
Method 2) Add 1 Tbs. or to taste, instant coffee as you make it. I like Instant Espresso for flavor depth.

Vanilla Syrup:
While cooking simple syrup add from 2-3 tsp. or more vanilla to taste. This amount will also be determined by whether pure extract or imitation is used. The main thing is not to let it dilute the syrup recipe, so the length of cooking time will depend on the degree the fluid needs reducing to achieve the right consistency.

Fresh Fruit Syrups:

Examples of how fresh fruits can be used. Always store chilled. Traditionally these directions would have included straining, but I like the rustic appearance of a rougher texture.


Strawberry
Marinate sliced berries in sugar as for shortcake topping, then puree.


Peach
Method 1) about ½ cup peeled, sliced fruit and 1Tbs. simple syrup, or to consistency, pureed
Method 2) Roasted peach half(halves-depending on quantity wanted) pureed with simple syrup, if needed. Gives a more intense flavor

Blueberry
½ cup blueberries and 1+? Tbs. simple syrup microwaved at 1 min. intervals for 3 min. or until soft, then pureed.

Feel free to experiment—perhaps chopped apple, with cinnamon treated as blueberries or plums substituted for peaches. A few drops of liqueur or extract or a pinch of spice can add to the taste as well.