MERINGUES-SWEET and LITE
The subject of preparing dishes ahead to avoid stress later brings me to why I love meringues, they’re easy to make, fun to work with and have a long shelf life. This last asset is why I chose them for this week’s topic. If kept airtight, they can be made weeks in advance of an event and save a ton of work.
Once very popular, meringues lost favor partly because they don’t freeze and are too fragile to ship, both detriments in today’s world, but mainly because of Salmonella. Most people associated the name with the uncooked version used to top cream pies. Let me be clear. The following recipes are all cooked and perfectly safe. Actually meringue topping can be quite safe too if baked until the top is golden. Each year, I make a pumpkin meringue pie, but I place it in a 500 deg. oven for 5 min.to brown the top and cook the eggs, then let it cool to set.
Winton’s Meringue Powder, mainly sold in craft stores like A .C. Moore, is an alternative to using raw eggs and can be eaten in an uncooked topping. However, I prefer made-from-scratch meringue. It’s lighter in texture and appearance, easier to prep, and since recipes, other than topping, require cooking, no more time-consuming.
Meringues are baked in a low, 250 deg. oven for a couple of hours, until a hard shell forms. It’s the shell that allows meringues to hold a shape and makes them so versatile. Piped into rosettes, shaped into swans, simply spooned onto a baking sheet, they are wonderful small treats. Shaped into pie shells, cake layers, parfait cups and even bird’s nests, meringues can turn other ingredients into elegant dessert presentations.
Better yet, meringues are fat- free, so they’re low in cholesterol as well as in calories and gluten free. With fruit they’re the perfect healthy dessert and by replacing batter or dough, remove some of the guilt from ice cream and custard fillings. Best of all, they are truly simple to make needing only a bowl and a beater. Once in the oven they demand to be left alone until done. That sounds more like a modern approach to cooking than an antiquated item to me.
Meringues are perfect all year long. They appear frosty giving them a seasonal appeal in cold weather and a have cooling icy appeal when it’s warm. I’ve modified these recipes to adapt them to the coming fall and winter holidays to start you thinking ahead and save you work.
RECIPES
Basic French Meringues: Yield about 25 small or 12 large–recipe doubles or triples easily
IMPORTANT The only thing to beware of is that egg whites will not beat if there is even a trace of any other substance, including water but especially egg yolk, on the beaters or in the bowl.
TIP: egg whites beat better at room temperature.
Cookie Sheet and Waxed Paper:
2 egg whites
½ cup sugar
2 drops cider vinegar
½ tsp. flavoring**
Cover the cookie sheet with the waxed paper . Carefully separate the eggs, putting the whites in a clean, dry bowl. It might be wise to break them separately, over another bowl, then transfer each white into the beating bowl. That way, if there’s a bit of yoke in the last white, you don’t have to start over. With clean, dry beaters, beat the eggs until they form soft peaks, @ 1 ½ – 2 min. Still beating, add the vinegar, gradually pour in the sugar, and continue beating until glossy peaks form when you lift the beaters. Add the flavoring, beat to mix.
Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Drop the meringue batter on the covered cookie sheet by the teaspoon or soupspoon depending on desired size, forming little mounds about 2 inches apart; cook 1 hour. While still slightly warm, remove the meringues from the paper, and allow to cool on a rack.
** Vanilla is usual if used with other ingredients. I like Maple to serve as individual treats. It’s also great in autumn to give a seasonal presentation and taste.
VARIATIONS
Milano Style Cookies
Place the batter on the paper lined sheet with teaspoons or tablespoons maintaining the egg shape of the spoon. Bake as directed in the master recipe. When cool, spread jam or icing of choice on the flat side of half the meringues and cover with the remaining halves.
Fruit Parfaits
Mound the meringue in high piles on the cookie sheet and make deep wells in the center of each with the back of a spoon. Bake as directed in the master recipe and before serving fill the wells with fresh fruit, pie filling and/or custard. For extra stability try the recipe below for nests.
Meringue Rounds:
Use plates to draw templates on waxed paper. The rounds can be layered like cake separated by different fillings. Cook as for meringues in the recipe above.
Angel Nests:
Add 1 Tbs. flour and 1 Tbs. cornstarch to just 3 egg whites per cup of sugar. Shape them on a template, using the back of a fork to raise the sides into nests. Bake at 250 degrees for 60 min. Leave in oven for 30 min. Cool on a wire rack. Store in a dry place until ready to use, up to a week. Fill centers with fresh fruit and serve with whipped cream, or topping, on the side. These can also be made in individual portions, and are most attractive. Judging by the timing to cook basic meringues, I don’t think there would be much adjustment to the directions either. Something you might want to try.
Meringue Pie Shells Follow the directions for the dacquoise below, omitting the chocolate and reducing the recipe by 1/3 if only one pie is needed. Fill with custard, fruit or mousse.
Chocolate Dacquoise: Serves 6-8
4 eggs
1 cup sugar
8 oz. semisweet chocolate
4 Tbs. shaved chocolate
Line (3) inch pie tins with waxed paper. Separate eggs, make meringues of whites and sugar. Melt 2 oz. chocolate and add to beaten whites, mixing well. Divide egg mix between the tins spreading evenly. Bake at 275 deg.60-70 min. until crisp. Melt 6 oz. chocolate with 2 Tbs. water until smooth-keep warm. Heat yolks and 2 Tbs. water in the top of a double boiler, whisking to increase volume and cook slightly. Fold yolks into chocolate mixing well. Place one meringue layer on serving plate. ‘Ice’ with 1/3 of yolk mixture, repeat with second meringue layer and then the third, ending with yolk mix. Garnish with chocolate shavings over. Cool and serve in wedges, cut with a serrated knife.
Fruit Gateau: Serves 6
3 ½ cups mixed berries or diced, skinned soft fruit-if using large strawberries chop to size
3 cups ice cream- flavor optional
2 Tbs. powdered sugar
4 oz. meringues = 1 small per cup of other ingredients or 6 here—See recipe below*
Dampen a 2 lb. loaf pan and line it with waxed paper. Put the fruit in a bowl with the sugar and toss until it begins to break up but don’t let it get mushy. Put the ice cream in another bowl and break it up with a fork. Add the broken meringues and the fruit. Fold the ingredients together until lightly marbled. Pack the mixture into the prepared pan and press down lightly to level. Cover and freeze overnight. To serve, invert on a plate, remove wrap and slice.
*NOTE: This is delicious with an interesting texture. However, it’s difficult to slice. I think I’ll make it in individual molds from now on, perhaps even use muffin cups
Peach Melba: Per portion
1 large scoop ice cream-vanilla is customary but peach or strawberry are options
2 meringues-see recipe above*
1 peach half- canned peaches can be used, but fresh, skinned ones are better.
3 Tb. raspberry sauce**
Place the peach half in the bottom of a dessert dish, top with ice cream. Press a meringue into each side of the ice cream scoop and pour the raspberry sauce over.
**NOTE: Melba Sauce is sold in gourmet sections, but fresh berries tossed with sugar are better in spring as are frozen raspberries sweetened to taste.
Chocolate-Pecan Meringues: Yield 16
3 egg whites
1/3 cup sugar
1/8 tsp. cream of tartar
2 Tbs. unsweetened cocoa powder
¼ cup finely ground pecans
1 cup strawberry, raspberry or other preserves.
Preheat oven to 250 deg. and line a cookie sheet.Beat egg whites until frothy, add cream of tartar and, gradually sugar and beat to stiff peaks. Combine cocoa and pecans and fold in. Spoon the batter onto the prepared sheet in 1 ½ inch mounds. Use the back of the spoon to depress the center of each meringue forming a shallow cup. Bake for 1 hr. and cool in oven. When ready to serve fill depressions with preserves or other topping.
