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A NEW LOOK AT MELONS

A NEW LOOK AT MELONS

Before the introduction of rapid air transport and commercial globalization of crops, melons were the jewels of the summer season. My home state was famous for Jenny Lind cantaloupes and they were eagerly anticipated. Now, I understand they’re rarely seen, as are the roadside farm stands which sold them. In fact, wherever one lives, even in Farmer’s Markets, truly ‘Local’ produce is becoming scarce. (See posting Jan. 14, 2021

On the flip side, we now get many items year ‘round, among them melons, especially cantaloupes, watermelons and some honeydews.  Casabas, Persians and, my Mother’s favorite the spicy-sweet Crenshaws are limited to boutiques. As a result, our perception of melons has changed in the past few years. Recipes can be found to include them in every course of a meal, and they are combined with other ingredients, rather than soloing in appetizers and desserts. Although, I’m still partial to Prosciutto   con Melone, with thin slices of ham wrapped around cubes or wedges of cantaloupe, or a wedge of icy honeydew with lime quarters on the side.

Generally, Melons’ taste is mild, their flavor subtle, and the flesh, high in water content, is substantial in volume. Consequently, though delicious cold, melons are the only fruit, which, except for the rind, doesn’t cook well, despite the recent ‘watermelon fries’ fad.  Delicious alone, melons mild flavor combines well with other ingredients and the meat makes excellent bedding in salads and compotes.

When vine ripened, melons slip off their stem, the stump end is indented. If harvested on a schedule, it’s cut away leaving a stump. The more wrinkled the stump, the longer the melon’s been stored. To pick a melon, the best test is to thump it and listen for a hollow sound and the smooth end should yield gently to pressure.  Ripe cantaloupes have a faint, sweet fragrance as well. Finally, shake the melon and if you hear the seeds rattle softly it’s ripe but if they are loud, it’s apt to be dry. Unlike other fruits, melons don’t ripen once picked, so eat them soon.

Watermelons are an exception in a few ways. They are native to North Africa, not the East as other melons and, due to the dispersion of the seeds in the meat, are classified as a berry. They come in several colors, yellow, pink, red and white but all have the same nutritional value. Generally, the larger the riper and sweeter, so test them by slapping them with the open palm. A ripe melon will have an almost musical ring said to resemble B Flat. Uncut melons will keep for two weeks at room temperature, longer if chilled. Cut melons should be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated but last for several days.

Now, a few tips on working with melons
.  Wash the outside well, before cutting into one. A knife slicing through the rind can carry contaminants into the flesh. Melons are loaded with nutrients but they quickly disintegrate when exposed to light and air, so avoid buying cut segments. Once opened, cover the exposed flesh with plastic wrap and store chilled. I put mine in a black plastic bag in the fridge. 

Below are 11 recipes, using different melons, for a variety of dishes to serve throughout a meal, illustrating the new-found versatility of melons. For lots more recipes see  July 22,  2016,   Aug.30,2018,   Aug. 8,2019, and Aug. 27, 2020.

RECIPES

Melon Salsa: Serves 4
Wonderful with chicken or fish
½ small cantaloupe –seeded and cubed
4 scallions- white and light green parts in thin slices or ½ small onion in small dice
½ green bell pepper in small dice
1 Tbs. chopped fresh mint
½ lime juiced
Pinch salt

Watermelon Pickle:
Remove the meat and cut the green skin off the rind. Cut the white pith into about 1 inch pieces. Cover with well salted water and soak for 12 hrs. Drain and cover with fresh water and boil rapidly for about 10 min. until crisp tender and drain. For every pound of rind allow
1 cup water
1 cup vinegar
2 cups sugar
2-3 inches stick cinnamon
8 cloves
1 oz. fresh ginger root-sliced
Boil these ingredients until they form a syrup. Add the rind and return to a boil. Remove from heat and cool. Place in clean glass jars with tightly screwed tops. Store chilled. Keeps for years if kept cold. Excellent in place of sweet pickles or accompanying poultry.

Honeydew-Pineapple Soup: Serves 4
4 cups seeded, cubed honeydew
2 cups cubed, fresh pineapple
2 Tbs. honey
1 Tbs. lime juice
½ cup sour cream
½ cup yogurt
Pinch all spice
Blend everything to a puree and chill. Serve garnished with chopped fresh mint.

Moosewood Melon Soup: Serves 4*- from the Moosewood Restaurant New Classics Cookbook
6 cups cubed cantaloupe
14 oz. can coconut milk
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
2 Tbs. grated fresh ginger
2 Tbs. chopped mint
1 tsp. almond extract
Dash cinnamon
@¼ cup brown sugar or to taste
Puree all the ingredients, adding the sugar to taste. Chill well. Serve garnished with mint leaves.

Steak and Watermelon Salad: Serves 4—by Judy Kim for Delish 

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1. Tbs. brown sugar
1. tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. chili powder
1 lb. cooked Flank steak
2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 cups arugula greens
1/4 cup Chopped red onion
1 cup croutons
2 cups watermelon, cut into chunks
1/2 cup feta
Sea salt
In a small bowl mix brown sugar, garlic powder and chili powder. Massage all over steak. Preheat grill or cast-iron grill pan on high heat. Grill steak for 5 minutes on each side, then let meat rest for 3 to 4 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large bowl mix together vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper. Toss in arugula, onion, croutons and watermelon.
Slice the meat against the grain. Serve steak with watermelon panzanella salad and top with feta and a sprinkle of sea salt.

Melon-Scallop Salad: Serves 4
2 cups melon-any type but watermelon
1 ½  cups chopped tomatoes
½ cucumber-seeded and cubed
1 small onion in thin rings
1 Tbs. fresh mint
1 head green leaf lettuce
1/3 cup citrus vinaigrette
1 lb. broiled scallops
Toss first 5 ingredients and divide among lettuce lined plates. Top with scallops and drizzle with vinaigrette.

My Watermelon-Tomato Salad: Serves 2
½ lb. firm fish-baked or broiled- I like Monkfish- cooked chicken is also good. A Louis Kemp product can be used as well.
2 medium  tomatoes in thin wedges
2 cups watermelon in rough chunks
3 scallions sliced on an angle
Salt and pepper to taste
4 cups green leaf lettuce – torn in bite sized pieces
Balsamic vinaigrette-commercial or DIY
Place all the salad ingredients in a large bowl gently toss and plate. Drizzle with some dressing and pass the rest.
OPTION: Add ½ lb. firm fish-baked or broiled- I like Monkfish- cooked chicken is also good. A Louis Kemp product can be used as well. When making separate the meat into chunks, avoid cutting if possible, and toss gently.

Melon Sherbet: Serves 6-8
1 medium melon-cantaloupe or casaba
Juice of ½ lemon
4 egg whites
6 oz., sugar-super-fine or ’bar’ sugar is best
¼ -1/2 cup cherries or berries for garnish-optional
Fresh mint leaves for garnish-optional
Cut the melon in half, in a zigzag pattern if shell is to be used it for serving. Remove seeds and cube meat. Blend with the lemon juice until smooth. Pour into a 1 ½ quart container and freeze until beginning to set. Beat the egg whites until stiff and gradually add the sugar.  Gently whisk or beat the melon mixture until broken up and light. Fold in the egg whites and return to the freezer and freeze until firmly set. Serve by the scoopful, in the melon shell or dishes. Garnish with fruit and/or mint. Keeps frozen about 1 month.
NOTES: Choose overripe fruit to make sherbet.
For anyone concerned over Salmonella, I recommend substituting Wilton Meringue Powder in any recipe that calls for directly adding raw beaten egg whites.  See June 30, 2016 posting on Icy Desserts.

Melon with Ice Cream
My Mother introduced this dessert to my Father’s family. They learned to love it and even had competitions as to the combinations.
Cut a thin slice off one end of the melon and stand it up. Cut a slice off the top just low enough to expose the interior. Scoop out the seeds and fill with softened ice cream or sherbet. Secure the ’cap’ piece with toothpicks and freeze until ice cream is firm. Serve cut in wedges or in rings. Garnish with a drizzle of a complimentary liqueur- Triple Sec or Crème de Menthe.

Watermelon Granita: Serves 4
1 small watermelon-seeded and cubed
Sugar to taste
Dash hot pepper sauce and/or lime juice and/or salt to taste
Blend the melon meat and strain through a fine sieve or cheesecloth. Add sugar, dissolve, then add the other flavorings sparingly. Put into a metal 9 X 13 inch pan. Freeze, scraping with a fork to break up every 20-30 min. for 2-3 hours until resembles fluffy shaved ice. Store in a covered container in the freezer for 1 week. Scrape to fluff before serving. (The ice chips don’t clump during storage.)

Melon Tequila : Serves 4 -From Rozanne Gold’s Recipes 1-2-3 Menu Cookbook
1 large ripe cantaloupe, watermelon or combination
½ cup tequila + extra for dipping glass rims
4 Tbs. sugar + extra for dipping glass rims
Salt and pepper
Using a scoop make melon balls. Place melon balls in a bowl with other ingredients stirring to dissolve sugar. Cover and chill for 30 min. Dip glass rims in extra tequila then sugar to coat. Fill the glasses with the melon balls. Spoon over any remaining marinade. Serve at on

Tipsy Watermelon

Cut a plug about 2 inches square and deep in a melon. Pierce the meat several times with an ice pick or similar utensil and pour in liquor of choice, rum, brandy, wine something that will add flavor, filling melon. Replace plug and refrigerate melon 24 hrs. turning occasionally. Cut melon open and serve cut marinated meat and serve with juices.
Watermelon cocktails are trending -check the web.

Nana’s Cooler:

My grandmother made a refreshing drink by pureeing the meat and straining the pulp. Add salt and chill, serve with a lime wedge and if available a sprig of mint. This doesn’t say “no” to a jigger of vodka, gin or tequila.

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