AU GRATINS ARE GOLDEN

Like most people, I love gratins. They make a pretty presentation, the topping enhances the flavor and creates an interesting contrast in texture. Crispy, but not dry, it complements the softer body of the dish. There is a wide variety of gratins for every course, one might even say that French Onion Soup is a gratin, with its topping of bread and cheese but the true value of this category of dishes is in their convenience.

They are a menu planner‘s and cook’s dream because they can be prepared ahead of baking or partially baked and finished or transported and finished on site. This quality makes gratins the perfect dishes to consider with the holidays coming up, an answer to how to organize a communal Thanksgiving, a major holiday dinner or buffet supper or what to bring to a club pot-luck Christmas party. Last week, I wrote several posts on easily prepared and/or portable side dishes which included some gratin recipes, but gratins deserve a post of their own.

The appeal of gratins goes back centuries and led to the naming of the recipe category. ”Gratin” in French means “crispy and slightly burnt”; “Au Gratin” means “with crumbs”. Centuries ago, when food was baked in iron pots in the embers of an open fireplace, it had to be inverted onto a platter to be served. Often the bottom had formed a crusty, browned layer which was considered a treat. With the development of closed ovens and serving ware that went from oven to table, inverting food was no longer needed. People missed the crusty ‘gratin’ but baking was more even and the layer had disappeared.

The solution was to create a topping layer to imitate it. Other cuisines hit on breadcrumbs but the French improved on that by making it into a flavor element, naming it ‘Au Gratin’ and turning the recipes using it into a food category. The traditional ‘gratin’ is cheese and/or breadcrumbs. Butter, dotted or melted and drizzled over is an option. Crushed crackers, cereals, potato chips and cookies are permitted as well. However, these are all cooked items as opposed to the ‘crumb’ and ‘crisp’ toppings found on desserts, which are based on raw flour. They are not ‘gratins’.

Gratins can be made with most foods and added to many casseroles, but they are chiefly associated with recipes using cream sauces. The interesting thing is that when cooking gratins with starchy items like potatoes or pasta, there’s no need for a roux or added thickener. The gluten in those ingredients releases in cooking and thickens the sauce alone, making preparation a breeze. So with the holidays ahead, or just for general meal planning, try some gratins. There’s a nice selection of recipes below to start you on the way. 

RECIPES

Basic Au Gratin Potatoes: 8 servings

3 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1-1/2 teaspoons salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

2 cups 2% milk

1 cup shredded cheddar cheese

5 cups thinly sliced peeled potatoes (about 6 medium)

1/2 cup chopped onion

Additional pepper, optional

Preheat oven to 350°. In a large saucepan, melt butter over low heat. Stir in flour, salt and pepper until smooth. Gradually add milk. Bring to a boil; cook and stir 2 minutes or until thickened. Remove from heat; stir in cheese until melted. Add potatoes and onion.  Transfer to a greased 2-qt. baking dish. Cover and bake 1 hour. Uncover; bake 30-40 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. If desired, top with additional pepper.

NOTES:

1)For a creamier, thicker sauce, substitute half and half or heavy cream for up to 1/2 the milk. Do NOT use whole milk or light cream. They curdle when cooked.

2) Cheese:  freshly grated  cheddar or sharp are favorites. Packaged grated cheese can be used in a pinch  but it won’t melt as smoothly. Gruyere, Swiss or provolone are tasty alternatives

3) For extra crunch, add some breadcrumbs to the cheese

4)Use a mandolin for even thin potato slices

5)1/4 cup chopped bell pepper or 1-2 Tbs. herbs of choice ae good add-ins

Quick Scalloped Potatoes: Serves 4

1 lb. medium potatoes – mixed sweet and white- in thin slices

¾ cup skim milk

¼ cup grated Parmesan

Paprika for garnish

Layer potatoes and cheese in a greased 2 qt. casserole. Pour over the milk then garnish, cover with vented plastic wrap and microwave on high 10-12 min. turning dish 3 times. Best served at once, but to prepare ahead, see above recipe for directions.

Boursin Stuffed Mushrooms: Serves about 4 From 500 -3 Ingredient Recipes by Robert and Carol Hildebrand

16 large mushroom caps

8 oz. Boursin cheese

1 cup Panko

Remove the mushroom stems, and wipe the caps. Stuff them with the cheese, then press the Panko on the tops, patting to cover completely. Place the mushrooms in a pan with ¼ cup water in the bottom and bake at 400 deg. 10-12 min. until they’re soft and the Panko is golden. Serve hot.

NOTE: Can be made several hours ahead and kept chilled. Bring to room temp before cooking.

Roasted Potato, Garlic and Leek Gratin: Serves 4

2 lbs. russet potatoes-peeled and sliced

½ leek- sliced

1 Tbs. roasted garlic paste

2 cups milk

1 bay leaf

1 ¼ tsp. salt

1/8 tsp. grated nutmeg

2 Tbs. sour cream

2 tsp. Dijon mustard

½ cup grated Swiss cheese

Bring milk, salt, bay leaf, and nutmeg to a boil. Add vegetables and garlic, reduce to a simmer and cook 10-15 min. Remove solids to a 1 ½ quart shallow casserole dish with a slotted spoon. Discard bay leaf. Stir sour cream and mustard into milk mix, pour over potatoes and bake at 425 deg. for 10 min. Scatter cheese over top and bake an additional 15 min. until cheese is golden and bubbles. Serve hot.

Gratin Douphinois: Serves 6 This is one of the most famous gratin dishes. You will find it’s more compact than the Potatoes Au Gratin we’re used to. From Bay Books’ The Food of France

2 ¼ lb. floury potatoes

2 garlic cloves crushed

½ cup grated Swiss cheese-divided. 2 Tbs. in reserve for topping

Pinch nutmeg

1 ¼ cups half and half

½ cup heavy cream

Thinly slice the potatoes with a mandolin or knife. Place 1 layer in a well-buttered 9”X 6”baking dish, sprinkle with some nutmeg, garlic and cheese. Repeat layers ending with potatoes. Pour liquid over and top with reserved cheese. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven until potatoes are cooked and liquid is completely absorbed. If top browns too quickly, cover with foil. Allow to stand 10 min. before slicing to serve.

Fennel, Tomato and Garlic Gratin: Serves 4. Another recipe from Bay Books

2 lb.4 oz. fennel bulb

1 large red onion halved lengthwise and thinly sliced

1/3 cup olive oil

2 garlic cloves-crushed

1 lb. 2 oz. tomatoes-peeled and chopped

Gratin Topping

2 ¼ oz. fresh white bread (3-4 slices) made into crumbs in a processer =about 1-1 ½ cups

2/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1 garlic clove crushed

2 tsp. lemon zest tsp. lemon zest

Peel tomatoes by dipping into boiling water for 10-20 sec., roughly chop. Cut fennel bulbs in half lengthwise and thinly slice with a mandolin or knife. Sauté the onion in the oil until just softened, about 2-3 min. add garlic and cook 2 min. add funnel and cook 7 min. stirring frequently until soft and golden.

Add tomatoes and cook 5 min. or until tomatoes are soft. Pour mixture into a buttered 8 ½ inch square pan. Toss together all the gratin ingredients and scatter over the dish. Bake in a preheated 400 deg. oven until top is golden and crisp, about 15 min. Serve hot.

Pears Au Gratin: Serves 6 –Also from Julia Child’s book cited above

2 lb. pears- fresh or canned, peeled, cored and sliced 3/8 inch thick

¼ cup white wine OR mix of pear juice and wine

¼ cup apricot preserves or jam

½ cup cookie crumbs, preferably macaroons

1 Tbs. butter

1 baking dish 8 inches by 2 inches deep smeared with 2 Tbs. butter

Arrange the pears in a circular pattern in the baking dish. Beat the liquid and the preserves together, strain and pour over the pears. Sprinkle with the crumbs and dot with the butter. Bake on the middle rack in a preheated 400 deg. oven for 20-30 min. until top is golden. Serve hot, room temp or chilled. 

Stuffed Eggplant: Serves 4—Scoop and chop pulp from 2 medium Japanese eggplant divided lengthwise. Place pulp in a microwave safe dish with 2 cups sliced mushrooms, ½ cup diced onion,2 cloves minced garlic, 1 Tbs. chopped parsley, 1 Tbs. soft butter, ¾ cup wheat breadcrumbs. Cover and microwave on high 6min. stirring once. Fill shell with mixture and place in a flat glass baking dish with ½ inch of water; top with ¾ cup wheat breadcrumbs. Cover and microwave on high 6 min. until heated through. Garnish with parsley. Store prepared, cook just before serving.

Kohlrabi Gratin: Serves 4

1 ½ lb. kohlrabi –thinly sliced – ½ cup thinly sliced leaves reserved

½ cup shredded Parmesan cheese

¼ cup heavy cream

2 Tbs. diced onion

Salt and pepper to taste

3 Tbs. seasoned wheat breadcrumbs

Combine onion, leaves, cheese and seasonings; divide into 4 parts. Butter a casserole dish and put in a layer of kohlrabi, cover with ¼ of the mixture and 1 Tbs. cream. Repeat layers 3 more times ending with cream. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Bake, covered at 350deg. for 30min. uncover and bake 15 min. more.

Can have the first baking, be chilled and reheated in second baking.

Sweet Potatoes Anna: Serves 4—Toss 2lb. peeled, thinly sliced sweet potatoes with ¼ cup melted butter, 1 Tbs. sugar, 1 ½ tsp. cinnamon, ¾ tsp. ginger, ¼ tsp. nutmeg, ¼ tp. pepper and a pinch of salt. Layer half the slices in an over-lapping circular pattern in a foil lined 9 inch cake pan. Sprinkle with 4 oz. shredded Swiss cheese; layer the rest of the potatoes on top. Cover loosely with foil and bake at 425 deg. for 60 min. Uncover and invert onto serving platter. Can be rewarmed in the microwave

Sweet Potato Cranberry Casserole: Serves 8—Cook and mash 2 lb. sweet potatoes and place in a casserole. Stir in 1 can (16oz.) whole cranberry sauce and ½ tsp. cinnamon. Combine 2/3 cup EACH rolled oats, flour, light brown sugar and 6 Tbs. butter to make crumbs and sprinkle them over the casserole top. Bake at 375 deg. 20 min. Store crumbs and casserole separately, chilled, until ready to bake.

Cheesy Squash and Kale: Serves 8

1 lb. fresh kale, heavy stems removed chopped in large pieces

2 acorn squash peeled and cut in ¼ inch slices-equal amount of another squash can be substituted

1 medium onion- sliced

1 (12 oz.) can evaporated milk

2 Tbs. flour

2 Tbs. grated Parmesan

Salt and pepper

½ cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese

Lightly grease a 11X7 inch baking dish, layer ½ the squash, slightly over-lapping, in the bottom; sprinkle with flour and Parmesan; arrange kale and onion over top, add seasonings and then layer the remaining squash. Pour the milk over all and top with the cheddar cheese. Bake at 400 deg. for 45 min. until hot and bubbly. Store chilled, covered. Reheat gently in a microwave.

Halved Acorn Squash: 4 servings for each topping recipe A 2 lb. quartered pie pumpkin=2 acorn squash halves =4 servings . Quartered pie pumpkins can be used as well in either recipe.
To Cook Squash

Microwave: Acorn halves: Seed and place cut side down in a baking dish and microwave on high 6-9 min. until tender, rearranging once. Add topping and cook on high 3 min. more. Serve

Stove Top: Pumpkin Quarters: Seed and drop into boiling waterfor10-15 min. until fork tender; drain. Can be done ahead to this point and stored, chilled in plastic wrap. Arrange cut side up in a baking dish and spoon topping into cavities. Roast at 400 deg. for 15 min. basting once.

NOTE: The cooking methods are interchangeable once the topping is added.

Apple, Maple, Nut Topping

1 cup applesauce

1Tbs. maple syrup

¼ cup chopped toasted walnuts

½ tsp. cinnamon

Mix ingredients and spoon into acorn squash halves or pumpkin quarters. Cook on high 3 min. or roast 15 min. at 350 deg. basting pumpkin quarters once.

Harvest au Gratin Potatoes: Serves 4

1 large sweet potato in ¼ inch slices

2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes in ¼ inch slices

¼ cup chopped onions

2 cups 1% milk

3 Tbs. flour

1 Tbs. butter

Salt & pepper

1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Paprika and dried parsley flakes- for garnish

Boil potato slices in water until crisp tender about 5 min. Drain and put in a lightly greased 8 inch non-metal baking dish with onions and dot with butter. In a small sauce pan, combine flour and milk with seasonings and heat, stirring constantly until thickened. Pour over potatoes, cover with cheese and garnish. Bake in a 350 deg. oven until brown and bubbly, about 25 min. When making ahead, leave baking until serving time or if oven space is a problem, under bake by about 5 min. store covered, chilled and reheat uncovered before serving, or follow directions above for microwave.