Basic Sauces Explained – Recipes for your favorite basic Sauces

A friend, who’s a really savvy cook, read me the riot act, via email, right after last week’s posting appeared. Quite rightly, he pointed out that I had confused sauces identity by incorrectly lumping them with gravies.  Sauces are independently formed where as gravies are constructed from the liquid or pan drippings resulting from cooking the foods with which they are served.   In my defense, I was trying to show the busy, time-pressed meal planner-cook some options and easy alternative ways to add variety to their menus, not discussing French cuisine.

However, perhaps I was too simplistic and he is right in advising that I set the record straight.  A full explanation of sauces will aid in clarifying food articles, including restaurant reviews, help in choosing recipes to try and in decoding menu options when eating out. This last advantage could be important for those on diets.  A working knowledge of sauces allows adjustments to be made for dietary requirements, but restaurants, striving for professional ratings, stick to classic renditions and full strength sauces are not diet friendly.

So let’s have a look into the world of sauces according to the French, with some guidance from Julia Child and Alma Lach. There are 5 WARM “Mother” sauces, 2 COLD “Mother” sauces and 1 in a category of its own; for a total of 8 sauces.  A “Mother” sauce is one whose taste is integral to the dish(es) with which it is served and be can be modified to create several other sauces, some of which can be further modified to create a third generation of sauces; grandchildren as it were. Several sauces can form the basis of a dish such as Lobster Newburg, Chicken a la King or spaghetti.

I am now going to list these “Mother “sauces and the characteristics of their offspring, both first and second generation. However, I won’t take the space here to describe them separately but, rather, provide a complete listing at the end of the post.

1. Perhaps the most familiar of the major sauces is The Basic White Sauce or Bechamel. This is made by stirring 4 Tbs. melted butter with 4 Tbs. flour into a smooth paste, or Roux, then adding 2 cups cold milk and stirring constantly over medium heat until it thickens into a smooth sauce. Classically, a dash of nutmeg, ½ tsp. of salt, 1/8 tsp. pepper and 1 tsp. sugar are added at the end. If the sauce is to be used plain, it should be diluted with cream.
   • In the first generation of offspring sauces of Bechamel, the special ingredients for each is sautéed in the butter before the flour is added and the sauce completed as the original is. There may also be finishing touches added.
   • In the second generation, the special ingredients are added to the completed mother sauce.

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2. Sauce Veloute is different from Bechamel only in that in its classic form, the milk is replace with chicken or fish stock. Beef and vegetable stocks are now accepted as well. The sugar is reduced to ½ tsp. the nutmeg is omitted and the sauce is finished with 2 egg yolks beaten and combined with 3 Tbs. crème fraiche or sour cream. Gradually add about ½ cup of the hot sauce to the egg mixture, then add the eggs to the pot of sauce and stir until thick and heated through. This yolk mix is called a “liaison”. 
   • The offspring Veloute sauces are interchangeable with those of Bechamel but the eggs and cream are omitted. The special ingredients are cooked in wine, stock or water first, then added to the finished Veloute and finished according to the recipe for each.
   • In the second generation the special ingredients of each sauce are added to the finished Veloute. Here the egg mixture or liaison is often included.
3. Sauce Hollandaise should be made in a heavy enameled pot or double boiler with a whisk. Hollandaise can’t be served more than lukewarm and reheating curdles it. The ingredients are standard, but the method or methods, because there are 4 of them, are a bit trickier. To make Hollandaise you need: 1 ½ sticks clarified butter (this is easiest put into a plastic squeeze bottle), 4 egg yolks, 1 Tbs. cold water,1/4 tsp. salt, dash of pepper, and 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice. 
   • Method A) Combine the egg yolks and water and whisk constantly over low heat until a custard forms.  Still whisking, add the butter a drop at a time then in a fine stream, then add seasonings and lemon juice. Remove from heat and pour into a serving dish.
   • Method B) Make custard as above and pour into a warmed blender container. On slow speed add a few drops of butter, then on medium speed the rest of the butter, the seasonings and juice.
   • Method C) Substitute a warm mixing bowl for the blender and make the sauce as above using a hand mixer on low speed only.
   • Method D) To the custard mixture, add ¼ lb butter softened to the point of melting, in 6 pieces, beating well with a hand mixer or whisk after each addition. This by far the easiest way!
   • I f Hollandaise doesn’t seem thick enough, continue to stir It over low heat until it does. If it curdles, add another yolk mixed with ¼ tsp. dry mustard and whisk over low heat until it smooths out.
   • In the first generation offspring of Hollandaise, the special ingredients are cooked first in wine or vinegar then strained into the pot before the master sauce is made.
   • In the second generation the special ingredients are added to the finished sauce.
4. Truly the Mother of all brown sauces is The Demi-Glace. It takes more time than the light sauces and requires more ingredients, but it’s simple to make and it freezes well to make other sauces on demand. The recipe calls for 2 onions and 2 carrots diced and in equal amounts, sautéed in ¼ lb. butter over low heat for about 30 mins, adding 1 Tbs. sugar for the last 10 mins. to carmelize the mix. Stir in 3 Tbs. flour and cook for 3 mins. until it begins to brown, then add: 3 cups stock: 2 cloves minced garlic, Bouquet Garni, 1 Tbs. tomato paste, pinch of salt, dash of pepper  and simmer for 1 hr. Strain into a clean pan, add 1 Tbs. Cognac and 1 Tbs. Madeira and brown food coloring if needed.  If freezing, omit the Cognac and Madeira until ready to use. 
   • In the first generation of offspring the special ingredients are cooked in wine or vinegar and then added to the master sauce. Special finishing ingredients, if required, are added later.
   • In the second generation the special ingredients are cooked first in butter then reduced in wine or vinegar before being added to the finished mother sauce.
   • In the third generation the special ingredients are simply added to the finished master sauce.
5. Sauce de Tomate seems a bit of a contradiction in terms according to the definition of a sauce. The Italians are more specific calling their version a Ragu or gravy rather than a sauce. The difference is that the finished French product is a smooth silky fluid. It calls for: 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 stalk of celery and 2 cloves of garlic, minced and sautéed in 4 Tbs. butter for 20 mins. Stir in flour and cook for 3 mins .Add 1 cup stock, 4 cups diced tomatoes (or 3 cups whole canned) 1 Tbs. sugar, Bouquet Garni and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for 2 hrs. stirring often and adding water to thin if needed. When done, remove Bouquet Garni and press through a food mill with a fine disk. Alternately blend and press through a sieve. This can be frozen for later use. 
   • The offspring of this sauce are created through the addition of various herbs, spices and seasonings either to the sauce or as garnish.
6. The first of the cold Mother sauces is Mayonnaise. Classic mayonnaise is made without cooking and depends chiefly on eggs. Due to the prevalence of Salmonella in poultry products, I will not print what could be a dangerous recipe. Rather I suggest you buy a good commercial product and create one of the offspring sauces because they are all made by adding ingredients to the finished mother sauce. It’s far safer. I do include the classic offspring of mayonnaise in the following listings. 
7. The other cold Mother sauce is Oil and Vinegar. Years ago this was a limited choice, but today there are so many vinegars and oils available, and we have become so familiar with many of them that one could fill books on the options, let alone the additions of herbs and other seasonings that constitute the offspring. So I’m going to skip over this “Mother” sauce completely.
8. The last “Mother” sauce category is Sauces au Buerre or Butter Sauces and it’s a large one, encompassing both cold and hot sauces. The general rule of thumb is that when making hot sauces, clarify the butter or the impurities will burn. Cold butter sauces are called “Compounds.” Since almost anything can be added to butter to make a sauce, the possibilities are endless. So I’m going to limit the listings to the best known or most obvious uses. Traditionally butter sauces, both hot and cold, were served only with hot foods, but compounds have become increasingly popular as spreads for canapés, sandwiches and other cold dishes which widened the field even further.

LIST OF SAUCES DERIVED FROM THE ORIGINAL “MOTHER” ONES:  You may find some familiar names on this list. If you have any food concerns, you may even find some potential “Red Flags”.

1. Bechamel Sauce: 
   • First generation-Special ingredients sautéed in the butter prior to making the sauce
     1. Albert: 2 minced shallots, 2 Tbs. horseradish & ½  tsp, dry mustard — 1 Tbs. butter to finish
     2. Champignon:  1 cup sliced mushrooms – “liaison” to finish(see Sauce Veloute)
     3. Currie: 2 Tbs. curry powder—finish with 2 Tbs. sherry and liaison
     4. Duxelles: Sauté 2 minced onions for 10 mins. add 1 cup minced mushrooms for another 5—This is called a “Duxelle”— proceed with Bechamel—finish with a :liaison”
     5. Moutarde: 1 Tbs. dry mustard – – finish with3 Tbs. whipping cream 
     6. Soubise: 2 cups minced onions sautéed for 10 mins Add 1 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar and proceed with sauce. Strain and finish with 1 Tbs. butter and 2 Tbs. crème fraiche or sour cream
     7. Soubise-Aurore: Add ½ cup tomato paste to above recipe
   • Second generation: Special ingredients added to finished sauce 
   1. Aurore: Add ½ cup tomato paste and 2 Tbs. sherry
   2. Chantilly: Off heat add 1 tsp. lemon zest & 4 Tbs. whipped cream
   3. Chaud-Froid:  Stir to dissolve 1 Tbs. gelatin, soaked in ¼ cup cold water in hot sauce. Add ½ cup whipping cream & 2 Tbs. Madeira. Cool and stir until it starts to set. Use to glaze cold food.
   4. Chaud-Froid a la Moutarde:  Use Moutarde Sauce as a base not plain Bechamel
   5. Ciboulette: 3 Tbs. minced chives& 2 Tbs. whipping cream + liaison
   6. Crème: 4 Tbs. crème fraiche or sour cream
   7. Mornay:  liaison of 2 egg yolks, 4 Tbs each whipping cream and Parmesan-Don’t let boil!
   8. Quinelle: liaison+ 2Tbs whipping cream+2 Tbs.sherry+2 drops of red food color+1 Tbs. butter
2. Sauce Veloute: 
   • First generation: Special ingredients sautéed in the butter prior to making the sauce
   1. Bercy: Reduce 2 minced shallots in1/ cup wine until wine is gone—Finish with 1 Tbs .lemon juice 1 Tbs. butter and minced parsley to taste
   2. Bonnefoy: 4 minced shallots in1/2 cup wine until reduced to nothing. Strain sauce-Finish  with 1 Tbs. butter
   3. Champignon: 1 cup sliced mushrooms in 1/ cup wine until totally reduced .Add 2 Tbs. Cognac and flame. Add Veloute sauce—finish with the liaison
   4. Poulette: Boil ½ cup of mushrooms in ½ cup of water for 5 mins. Use mushroom water to make Veloute. Finish with 1 Tbs. butter+ 1 tsp, lemon zest. Garnish with minced parsley
   5. Ravigote: 3 minced shallots boiled in ¼ cup wine+2 Tbs. vinegar until reduced. Add Veloute-Finish 1 Tbs. butter+1 Tbs. chopped chives+2 Tbs. fresh tarragon (or ½ tsp, dried)
   • Second generation: Special ingredients added to the finished sauce
     1. Bonne Femme: ¼ cup crème fraiche + 1 Tbs. lemon juice
     2. Currie:  Tbs. crème fraiche+1 Tbs. curry powder soaked in 2 Tbs. sherry. Re heat gently
     3. Supreme:  2 Tbs. whipping cream+4 Tbs. crème fraiche+ 1 Tbs. butter
     4. Supreme-Aurore: 4 Tbs. tomato paste to above
3. Sauce Hollandaise:  
   • First generation: The special ingredients are cooked in wine vinegar first, then the Master sauce is made.
     1. Bernaise: Simmer 2 minced shallots,3 crushed peppercorns and 1 Tbs. fresh tarragon in 4Tbs. wine  vinegar until liquid is reduced to 1 Tbs. Strain into pan and proceed to make sauce.
     2. Chivry: Finish Bernaise with enough pureed spinach, parsley or watercress to color it green
     3. Choron: Finish Bernaise with enough tomato paste to turn it a rich red.
     4. Paloise: Substitute mint for the other herbs in Bernaise
   • Second generation : Simply add special ingredients to the finished sauce 
     1. Anchois: Add 1 Tbs. Anchovy paste
     2. Capres: Add 2 Tbs. capers
     3. Chantilly: Add 2 Tbs crème fraiche
     4. Citron: 2 Tbs. lemon zest
     5. Divine: Add 3 Tbs. sherry reduced by half to Chantilly sauce
     6. Maltaise: 1 tsp. grated orange zest + 1 tsp. frozen orange juice+ 1 small drop red coloring.
     7. Mousseline: 4 Tbs. whipped cream
     8. Moutarde: 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard or to taste
     9. Noisette: ¼ cup ground toasted hazelnuts or almonds
4. Demi-Glace: 
   • First generation: the special ingredients are cooked in wine or vinegar and the cooked master sauce is added to them then finished according to each recipe.
     1. Bigarde: 2 Tbs. sugar + 2 Tbs. vinegar boiled to caramelize. Add blanched julienned strips of rind from 1 orange and 1 lemon +2Tbs. frozen orange juice+1 tsp. lemon juice. Simmer 10 mins. Add  Demi-Glace—Finish: add 2 Tbs. Grand Mariner to other finishing liqueurs.
     2. Bordelaise:  Reduce 2 minced shallots in 1 cup red wine to ½ cup, add Demi-Glace and simmer 30 mins. Strain. Add 1 tsp. lemon juice and ¼ cup poached beef marrow. Add 1 Tbs. butter to finishes
     3. Chateaubriand: Reduce 1 minced shallot, 1 bay  leaf, pinch of thyme and 8 minced mushrooms in 1 cup white wine to ¼ cup. Add master sauce and simmer 30 mins. Add 1 Tbs. butter to finishes
     4. Diable: Simmer 4 sliced shallots + 2 Tbs. vinegar in ½ cup white wine until reduced to nothing.  Add Demi-Glace +1/4 cup tomato paste+ dash of cayenne. Simmer 20 mins. Strain. Add 1 Tbs. lemon juice + 1 Tbs. butter to finishings.
     5. Diane: Reduce ½ cup vinegar with 10 crushed peppercorns to 2 Tbs. Strain into Demi-Glace. Mix some hot sauce into ¼ cup crème fraiche then add to sauce. Add 1 sliced truffle + 1 sliced hard cooked egg to finishings.
   • Second generation ingredients are sautéed in butter, then reduced in wine or vinegar and the master sauce is added. Finishing additions vary according to the recipe. 
     1. Chasseur: Sauté 1 cup sliced mushrooms+ 2 diced shallots in 1 Tbs. butter. Add ¼ cup of white wine and reduce to nothing. Add 1 Tbs. butter to finishings.
     2. Duxelles: Make basic Duxelles (See Bechamel recipes) Add to master sauce and add 1 Tbs  butter to finishings
     3. Lyonnaise: Sauté ½ cup minced onion in 1 Tbs. butter. Add ¼ cup each white wine and vinegar  and reduce to nothing. Simmer in master sauce for 20 mins. Add 1 Tbs. butter to fininshings
     4. Mitroton: Brown 2 sliced onions + 2 minced garlic cloves in butter. Add ¼ cup white wine and bouquet garni and reduce to nothing. Add master sauce + 2 Tbs .tomato paste and cook 10 mins.  Add 1 Tbs. butter to finishings.
     5. Robert: Sauté 2 minced onions in butter. Add ¼ cup white wine + 2 Tbs. vinegar. Reduce to nothing. Add sauce and simmer 30 mins. Add 1 tsp. dry mustard and 1 tsp. confectioners’ sugar to finishings.
   • Third generation:  in this group the special ingredients are added to the finished sauce. 
     1. Madere: Increase finishing Madeira to ½ cup and reduce to ¼ cup.
     2. Perigeux: Add 3 Tbs. chopped black truffles to Sauce Madere
5. Sauce de Tomate: 
   • There are only first generation offspring  all created through the blending of herbs, spices and seasonings.
     1. Italienne: Add 1 tsp. oregano + ½ tsp basil. Simmer10 mins. Add 2 Tbs. Marsala.
     2. Portugaise:  Mix in equal parts with Demi-Glace. Simmer 30 mins. Garnish with onion rings sautéed in oil until soft.
     3. Provencale: Tie 1 tsp. basil,1/2 tsp fennel seeds and ½ tsp. saffron in cheese cloth and simmer in sauce 30 mins. Discard bag and add 3 Tbs. chopped parsley to sauce before serving.
6. Mayonnaise: 
   • The offspring here are simply additions to the finished Mother sauce. Measurements are per 1 cup
     1. Aioli: Blend in 3 mashed cloves of garlic.
     2. Andalouse: ¼ each red and green peppers roasted, julienned and sautéed in olive oil added to 2 Tbs. tomato paste + 1 clove minced garlic +1/4 tsp. sugar + salt to taste.
     3. Chantilly: 1 Tbs. lemon juice + 1 Tbs. crème fraiche + 4 Tbs. whipping cream
     4. Menthe : Add 10 fresh, chopped mint leaves
     5. Nicoise: 2 Tbs. each minced pimentos & tomato paste + 1 tsp. each diced fresh tarragon & chives
     6. Noisette: ½ cup toasted, ground hazelnuts or almonds
     7. Remoulade: 2 sieved egg yolks,1 Tbs. minced sweet pickle, ¼ tsp. dry mustard,1 tsp. minced parsley, ½ anchovy paste,1/2 tsp each capers, dried chervil and tarragon.
     8. Tartare: 3 Tbs. minced sweet pickles, 1 minced shallot, 1 minced hard boiled egg, 2 Tbs, minced parsley and 1 Tbs. chopped chives
     9. Verte:  4 sprigs parsley, 6 sprigs watercress, 6 spears chives,2 leaves spinach all wilted in boiling water 2 mins. Drain, blot and sieve. ;Add to mayonnaise and adjust seasonings
     10. Vincent: Equal parts Sauce Tartare and Sauce Verte.
7. Oil & Vinegar: As I said in the discussion, our knowledge of oils and vinegars, and familiarity with  them, has so expanded in the past few decades that to try to write down all the variations and ways they are now used would take volumes. Nor are they always together. We often infuse them to customize them or use them alone. Balsamic, for example, is a wonderful dessert sauce for fresh fruit   by itself. So I think I’ll pass on this category and let you enjoy the adventure of discovering new combinations. 
8. Sauces au Buerre or Butter Sauces: Also as I said above, the category of Butter Sauces is huge. A good illustration is that the two experts on Classic French Cuisine, whom I mentioned in the beginning, each lists 25 recipe examples in her book. Imagine how the number has grown with our current access to global ingredients and our increased interest in cooking. We make these sauces up on the spur of the moment to fit what we’re cooking or even eating! Every new issue of a food magazine contains some and usually, the instructions for making the specific butter sauce is included with the recipe. So the best way to handle such an increasingly large subject is to establish the basics, give a few examples of add-ins and let you experiment on your own.

Always clarify the butter for the hot Butter Sauces or the impurities will burn. Hot Butter Sauces are to be served with hot foods or they will unappetizingly congeal and they must be finished just before serving. However, the add-ins, reduced wine,  zests, toasted spices or nuts etc. can be done well in advance. Even the butter can be clarified and reheated as the sauce is made. Cold butter Sauces-Compounds-can be made entirely well in advance, Depending on the ingredients many can be frozen. The traditional add-ins  are anchovy paste, garlic, mashed capers, citrus zest and/or juice, garlic, herbs, toasted spices and nuts. If you’re willing to give Butter Sauces a try, one of those ingredients would be a good place to start.