How to make simple pan sauces to dress up meals anytime.

SAUCES PART I—PAN SAUCES

Two weeks ago my posting was about gravies and it seems only fair that time be given to their alter-egos, sauces, especially with the holiday season ahead. Many party recipes rely on sauces and a general knowledge of making them can turn a ho-hum dish into something special, especially for unexpected guests or impromptu gatherings.

In the earlier posting, I explained that:”… both gravy and sauce are fluids served with a featured ingredient to enhance its flavor and/or texture and both can be made from a base of ”roux” or “slurry”, which I will describe below. The difference is that gravy is created from essence derived from cooking the main ingredient of a dish, be it animal or vegetable. This is why using the drippings from a roast is called Pan Gravy, not Pan Sauce even if done in a pot on stovetop or simply served as Au Jus. Italians are correct in calling what we refer to as Tomato Sauce, Tomato Gravy. It’s made from the pulp or meat of tomatoes. A sauce is constructed by mixing entirely separate ingredients from the main one. Hence gravies are mainly associated with the entrée, whereas sauces appear with every course, cover a far wider range and can be made in many ways other than the basic roux and slurry.”

In my book SAVVY SAUCES and GRAVIES I explain that “Sauces exist in infinite variety and are extremely versatile. A working knowledge of their basics is a real asset in the kitchen. Many sauces are familiar to us and regularly used; melted butter can be a sauce, but so are mayonnaise, pancake syrup and dessert toppings. Sauces range from the simple to the complex, yet often encountering the word on a menu conveys sophistication. This is the secret charm of sauces. They can be taken for granted or add instant glamour to the ordinary. They can dress up a dish, moisten a dry one, transform leftovers or even provide the basis for the whole recipe. Sauces made by deglazing the sauté pan with added ingredients are in this category.

A full explanation of sauces will aid in clarifying food articles, including restaurant reviews, help in choosing recipes to try and in decoding menu options when eating out. This last advantage could be important for those on diets. A working knowledge of sauces allows adjustments to be made for dietary requirements, but restaurants, striving for professional ratings, stick to classic renditions and full strength sauces are not diet friendly. The truth is most basic sauces are easy to make and familiarity with them is a valuable tool. So let’s discuss a few of the simpler ones, ways they can be altered for different uses and directions for making them.

The simplest sauces are GLAZES, made by melting a food in its solid state, for example jelly, or sugar, over low heat while adding a liquid, usually flavored, such as juice or wine, to transform it into a pourable consistency and alter its taste to compliment the flavor of the dish it accompanies. If the dish is roasted, the glaze may be added during the cooking and will usually be mentioned on the menu.

Only slightly more complicated are REDUCTIONS. Here a liquid like broth, stock, wine or juice is simmered (cooked just under low boil) until the water content evaporates reducing the volume, thickening the consistency and intensifying the flavor. Reductions can be started over a base of cooking vegetables, a canned broth, even a deglazed pan. Often they need to be strained to smooth them and a pat of butter added at the end will give them a silky finish.

COULIS is a sauce made by cooking the meat of vegetables or fruit, then pureeing and straining it, often adding spices or herbs. These days it would seem more of a condiment, usually encountered dribbled over a dish or decoratively around a plate rim. This includes, returning to the tomato discussion, the jarred or canned tomato “sauce “dear to many generations of spaghetti lovers is as opposed to the heartier tomato “gravy”.

Sauces using a thickening agent are probably the widest varied group. There are three major thickening agents, egg yolks, flour and cornstarch. Arrowroot and tapioca are sometimes mentioned in recipes, but to keep the pantry simple, as I mentioned above, I don’t use them, substituting either flour or cornstarch.

EGG thickened sauces generally follow the same procedure. The yolks are beaten in a bowl and the other ingredients are heated on a stove. A bit of the hot liquid is poured into the eggs to warm them and prevent them scrambling when introduced to the heat as they’re added to the pot. Then the mixture is stirred constantly to prevent curdling until it thickens to the desired consistency. Because of the hazards associated with raw eggs, it’s wise to avoid the “No Cook” recipes for these sauces, but there are plenty of excellent powdered ones available for those short on time.

However, this opens the door for a look into the world of classic sauces. According to French tradition, there are 5 WARM “Mother” sauces, 2 COLD “Mother” sauces and 1 in a category of its own; for a total of 8 sauces. A “Mother” sauce is one whose taste is integral to the dish(es) with which it is served and be can be modified to create several other sauces, some of which can be further modified to create a third generation of sauces; grandchildren as it were. Sauces can even form the basis of a dish such as Lobster Newburg or Chicken a la King.

I want to discuss these classics with you, but let’s save that for anther posting or this will run way too long. Right now let’s look at other types which will be the more likely to appear on your menu this holiday. Glazes, Reductions and Coulis are all pretty straightforward as well as being more opportunistic choices, dependent on what is available, or appealing at the moment, rather than a classic pairing. They can be planned ahead, such as a ham glaze, or result from last minute ideas resulting from pantry supplies, such as a reduction or coulis to perk up a dessert. The best way to master them is to experiment with a few, learn, how simple they are and stash the knowledge in your culinary tool kit.

Pan sauces are the most versatile and, in my kitchen, frequently used type. I make them for all sorts of meats and fish, especially leftovers, no matter how I cook them, except roasting. Last week in writing about turkey leftovers I included a recipe for Turkey in Orange Sauce, which I repeat below I have used this sauce on chicken, pork and a variation on salmon by adding a bit of Marsala, but Bourbon would do as well. This is just a small example of the ways in which these sauces can be modified to fit the food they compliment.

I find the simplest way to start a pan sauce and to add a bit of flavor is by using the oil and/or butter in which I’ve cooked the meat, or if using leftovers, melting a bit of butter with oil in the pan, and sautéing diced onion until soft, before adding juice and/or wine and/or broth and any other ingredients and seasonings and/or flavorings. Then I return the meat to the pan and let it simmer in the sauce for about 10 min. to let the flavors absorb. My usual calculations for two are to use 1 Tbs. each butter and oil and ½ cup liquid. Flavorings and seasonings are dependent on purpose, ingredients and taste.

I also make these sauces when baking meats or fish. I melt the oil and butter in the pan, then mix the liquid sauce ingredients, with seasonings and/or flavorings in a cup and pour half over meat or fish before baking and the rest just before finishing. When doing this I reduce the oil and butter each to half quantity. That was the method I used in making this week’s photo recipe, which is a fillet of salmon with a teaspoon of mustard on top, wrapped in a slice of ham and baked at 350 deg. for 20-25 min. using the orange sauce in the next recipe.

Here again is the basic recipe for (Leftover) Turkey in Orange Sauce followed by some suggestions for variations. Remember all these recipes work just as well with fresh meat sautéed in the pan first.

TURKEY in ORANGE SAUCE – Serves 4
4 portions of large pieces of frozen turkey thawed
1 medium-small onion diced fine
1 Tbs. oil
1/3 cup frozen orange juice concentrate*
1 ½ cups white wine*
1 Tbs. soy sauce or to taste
orange marmalade or brown sugar to taste
3 Tbs. match stick pieces of orange rind ½ inch long
Sauté the onion in the oil until soft, about 3 min. Add the juice, wine, soy sauce and orange rind. Stir to mix well and taste to adjust flavors adding marmalade or sugar if needed. This sauce should be tangy. Add the meat to the pan and simmer for about 10 min. to infuse the flavors. Serve hot.
* equal amounts of fresh orange juice can be substituted, but it’s best to dissolve ½ tsp. of cornstarch in the liquid first, and stir until slightly thickened before adjusting seasoning or adding the meat.

This technique works well substituting ½ cup, or to taste, leftover whole cranberry sauce for the frozen orange juice concentrate, mixing it with the wine and omitting the soy sauce and marmalade. The orange rind is optional.

Variations:

1) After sautéing the onion in the oil, substitute 2 cups Madera for Marsala with 1 tsp. cornstarch dissolved in it. Add with meat and gently stir until sauce thickens. Serve at once.

2) Substitute white wine for the others mentioned above. Add 1tsp. dried Tarragon and 8-12 raw shrimp with the meat and stir until shrimp is pink and sauce thickens about 3 min.
3) Add ½ cup roughly chopped reconstituted sun-dried tomatoes and ½ tsp. dried oregano to the pan with the wine and stir to partially thicken sauce. Add meat and heat through as sauce
finishes thickening. Remove from heat and add 1/3 cup sour cream. Gently stir over medium-low heat only until warmed through. Be careful, if it boils it will curdle. Serve at once.
4) Substitute 2 Tbs. Red raspberry jam + ¼ cup white wine or apple juice, with a drop of lemon juice added, for the other ingredients. Add the meat and simmer about 6 min to infuse flavor. This dish perks up with a good dash of black pepper.

The basic rules for making Gravy or Sauce as found in my book Savvy Sauces and Gravies are:

FLOUR and CORNSTARCH are, for the most part, interchangeable when making sauces. The major difference is that cornstarch needs only half the amount of flour. Otherwise, the other ingredient proportions, the measurements, the cooking method and timing are the same and the results nearly identical. I find cornstarch makes the finished sauce clearer and therefore prefer it for light gravy such as Au Jus and light sauces like raison, dessert ones or ones whisked up in a deglazed pan. On the other hand, I think it tends to become glutinous after refrigeration and thins when reheated. I prefer flour for stews and gravies where leftovers are anticipated.

There are two ways to thicken with flour or cornstarch; by making SLURRY or a ROUX. Both require following standard formulas, but are really quite simple to do. Directions for both follow.

!) SLURRY is made by dissolving a measured amount of thickener in a measured amount of cold liquid which is then poured into a specific amount of hot liquid to be thickened. The whole is maintained at a low boil, stirring constantly, until desired thickness is achieved-usually about 3 min. Slurries are used for making gravies, clear sauces and thickening stews and soups.

2) ROUX is usually made with flour. A measured amount of butter or margarine is heated to foam then a measured amount of thickener is stirred in off heat, to make a smooth paste. Quickly add a measured amount of cold liquid, whisking to avoid lumps. This can then be added to a main body of a dish and stirred as above to desired consistency. It can also be made into a sauce itself and with more liquid be heated to a simmer and stirred constantly until thick enough, about 3 min.

SLURRY: A few simple rules for making one:
1) The dissolving fluid should be room temperature and at least twice the amount of the thickener-for example 1 Tbs. flour to 2 Tbs. liquid
2) Be sure the powdered thickener is fully dissolved
3) Remember to include the amount of dissolving fluid in the total amount to be thickened when calculating the quantity of thickening agent needed.
4) For stews, gravies. soups etc. the base liquid should be skimmed of as much fat as possible or the end product can become heavy, glue-like and separate. Cooling the liquid before adding the slurry, if time allows, lets the fat congeal and be easily skimmed. This aids the incorporation
of the slurry reducing the chance of lumping.
5) Return to the heat, bring to a low boil and stir until thick as wanted, about 3 min

.

PROPORTIONS:
THIN: 1 Tbs. flour or ½ Tbs. cornstarch per 1 cup liquid= Soup
*MEDIUM: 2 Tbs. flour or 1 Tbs. cornstarch per 1 cup liquid = Gravies, Casserole

Sauces, Stews, Gratins.
THICK: 3 Tbs. flour or 1 ½ Tbs. cornstarch per 1 cup liquid=Soufflés, accompanying

Dessert Sauces.

ROUX: Rules for the Basic White Sauce
1) Be sure the butter or margarine are foaming. Then remove from heat at once.
2) The blending of fat and thickener must be a smooth paste
3) The liquid should be room temperature or below when added to the paste. Add it all at

once and whisk or stir vigorously to make sure it’s all incorporated before heating it to

avoid lumps.

4) Stir constantly until it reaches a simmer and achieves desired thickness, about 3 min

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PROPORTIONS:
THIN: 1 Tbs. flour or ½ Tbs. cornstarch + 1 Tbs. butter per 1 cup liquid = Soups
*MEDIUM: 2 Tbs. flour or 1 Tbs. cornstarch +2 Tbs. butter per 1 cup liquid =Stews,

Gravies, Gratins, Sauces
THICK: 4 Tbs. flour or 2 Tbs. cornstarch + 4 Tbs. butter per 1 ½ cup liquid =

Soufflés, accompanying Dessert Sauces
* Denotes most frequently used consistency with the most cook friendly variations.
TIP: 1 Tbs. = 3 tsp.

Tips and guidelines for success:

When making gravy from roux:

1) Use both a wooden spoon and a whisk. The paste made of fat and thickener must look and feel smooth. Sifting the flour in might help. A wooden spoon is best for this job. The paste will clump when the fluid is added and quick whisking breaks it up. Slow constant stirring with the spoon as the gravy thickens make sure that the contents don’t stick to the bottom and sides of the pot during cooking.

2) Making the roux and adding the fluid are easiest done off the heat. When the paste seems incorporated into the fluid, the pot can be returned to medium heat.

3) Be sure the fluid added to the roux is as free of fat as possible. Too much fat content gives an oily look, an “off” taste and makes the gravy separate.

When making gravy from slurry:

1)Using slurry to thicken a gravy, especially when making a large amount is simpler and easier than roux. Only a spoon is needed.

2) Although skimming the fat is advisable, if the meat used is very lean or well trimmed, not always necessary. The natural rending can replace the fat needed for a roux. Either way one simply dissolves the thickening agent in a measured amount of fluid adds it to the base in the pot and stirs until thickened.

3) The base fluid can still be hot, though simmering or boiling will result in clumping because it cooks too fast.

General guidelines:

1) The thickening agent will make a ripping sound as it cooks, when the spoon is run around the pot sides. The sound stops when capacity is reached. This is as thick as the gravy will get.

2) Overcooking will thin the gravy. For this reason it’s usually made just before serving. If it’s made ahead, rather than keep it warm, allow it to cool, but stir occasionally to avoid congealing. Reheat on medium-low, stirring with a whisk to prevent clumping

3) Always remember to adjust seasonings before serving.

4) I use just the turkey essence for my gravy. I ladle it into a 1 quart measuring cup, allowing it to cool and skim the fat as the bird rends. When I have a full cup of skimmed broth, I pour it into a pot, add the correct amount of flour and begin to make the gravy.

Troubleshooting:

1)To remove lumps, briskly whisk, use an immersion blender or an electric mixer.

2) To remove excess fat, chill or skim with a spoon or by running a paper towel across the surface. Whisk to incorporate the solids.

3) If over cooking or re-heating thins the gravy, allow it to cool, sift in more flour, stirring as you do and repeat the thickening process by cooking for about 3 min. This may blunt seasoning so be sure to check taste.

4) The best way to avoid trauma, or errors, is to practice. Make a few dishes requiring gravy before the big day. It will give you confidence.

MAJOR STEP—RELAX and have fun!! Then join us next week for a look at the classic sauces.