Posts from the ‘Desserts’ Category

Dec 26

HOLIDAY FRUIT SALADS BRIGHTEN MEALS

One of the bright displays of the winter holidays used to be fruit baskets. I can’t peg when they disappeared; 15 years ago? More? What I do remember is the way they showcased the fresh citrus fruits just coming to market. It’s a long way until spring and those grapefruit, oranges and kumquats, fit in perfectly with the holiday décor, while adding a touch of warmth and sunshine.

December holidays are really a season, lasting several weeks, filled with parties and at least one feast, showcasing tempting food. It’s a fun time, children out of school and adults with shortened workloads, a time when things should be a bit special, even weekday dinners. Nothing adds interesting color and flavor to a meal like fresh fruit and gives our taste buds a refreshing change from heavier entrée flavors.

The salad recipes in this post not only do that but also can be used in three ways to fil different needs. They can be served as small side salads, enlarged to a luncheon salad or fortified with protein and carbs to create a combined dinner salad. Combined dinner salads have been a favorite of mine since 2015 and I’ve written several posts on them. The latest on Sept. 12, 2024. These salads are a menu planner’s dream. They’re ingredient flexible, come together easily and fast, can be served at room temp, provide a nutritious meal and are very, very economical, achieving elegance with leftovers or deli meats.

Combined salads are the outcome of high meat prices, especially beef and the desire to make a good cut stretch further. Originally intended for steak, they now are neat ways to use leftover roast or even deli meats for a quick cold dinner, because the meat, thinly sliced, is arranged on one side of the plate. They are simply created by multiplying the single salad ingredients by the number of desired servings. Sufficient protein is supplied by the addition of cheese, nuts, seeds, grains and/or legumes. Body is achieved by adding croutons potatoes, vegetables and/or legumes. The result is a nutritious, satisfying meal.

Citrus aren’t the only fruits that can be added to salads to lighten holiday menus, apples, pears, grapes and tomatoes, yes tomatoes they’re a fruit too, are available in the stores during the holidays. Any of them can perk up a salad, add color to the dish and zing to the entire meal. I’m offering recipes containing these fruits, most of which I’ve served. I know all will be welcome additions to your holiday meals. Since there are too many recipes, to write in standard ingredient listing form without making the post too long, I’ll present them in paragraph form first the salad ingredients, then the dressings and finally, the instructions.

Remember the bitter, tough pith of citrus fruits, the white inner skin beneath the rind, must be removed. This is easiest done by cutting away the outer layers with a knife, but it’s acceptable in larger fruits to halve them and remove the sections with a serrated ‘grapefruit’ knife. Smaller fruits like Clementines can simply be peeled and the center membrane trimmed off with a scissors. Of course all inedible seeds, even in grapes should be removed as well. The salads can be made ahead; the ingredients stored separately, the lettuce in water, and assembled just before serving.

NOTE: appropriate bottled dressings are acceptable substitutes in most of these salads, but always add them just before serving.

RECIPES

CITRUS FRUITS:
Citrus in Champagne Vinaigrette: Serves 8-10
1) Meat of 2 navel oranges and 2 pink grapefruit, ½ cup toasted, slivered almonds. ½ cup thinly sliced red onion, 1 small head of radicchio and 2 heads red or green leaf lettuce in bite-sized pieces, 1/3 cup crumbled blue cheese.

2) Dressing: Whisk ½ cup champagne vinegar, 1/3 cup olive oil, 2 tsp. Dijon mustard, salt & pepper to taste.

3) Toss onion and lettuces, gently mix in fruit and nuts with dressing; sprinkle cheese over top.

Grapefruit Salad: Serves 6

1)Meat from 3 grapefruit, 2 thinly sliced pears,1/4 cup craisins, ¼ cup chopped, toasted pecans, 5 cups mixed greens, 1/3 cup crumbled blue cheese

2) Dressing: Whisk ¼ cup grapefruit juice, 2 Tbs. EACH oil and balsamic vinegar, salt & pepper to taste

3) Gently toss all ingredients with the dressing. Top with the cheese.

Spicy Orange Salad: Serves 6

1) Meat of 6 navel oranges, 4 cups chopped Romaine lettuce,1 Tbs. minced fresh cilantro

2) Dressing: Whisk 2 Tbs. oliveoil,1/4 tsp. EACH ground coriander and ground cumin, pinch cayenne pepper, and 1 clove garlic mashed with ½ tsp. salt

2) Gently toss oranges, lettuce and dressing, garnish with cilantro

Church Salad: Serves 6

1) 1 lb. Romaine cut in bite sized pieces, (1) 8oz.can mandarin oranges,1/2 small white onion thinly sliced

2)1/3 cup orange juice, 2Tbs.oil, 1 heaping Tbs. poppy seeds

3) Simmer juice, oil and seeds over low heat for 10 min. or until seeds soften. Cool completely. Gently toss with lettuce and oranges just before serving.

Nutty Orange Salad: Serves 8

1) 2 sliced scallions, 1 cup sliced celery, 6 cups Romaine in bite sized piece, ( 1) 15 oz. can

Mandarin oranges or 4 peeled Clementines in sections, ½ cup sliced almonds, 5 Tbs. sugar

2) Dressing: Whisk together 2 Tbs. red wine vinegar, ¼ cup olive oil, 2 Tbs. sugar,1 Tbs. dried parsley, pinch cayenne pepper, salt & pepper to taste

3) Stir almonds and 3 Tbs. sugar in a skillet, until sugar melts and coats nuts, cool on foil. Toss salad ingredients gently with dressing just before serving. Garnish with sugared nuts.

PEARS

Craisin-Pear Salad:* Serves 4

1) 1 large, ripe pear cored and diced, 3 cups salad greens, ¼ cup craisins

2) Dressing: Whisk 2 Tbs. oil, 1 Tbs. balsamic vinegar, ¼ tsp. Dijon mustard, salt & pepper

3) Toss all ingredients gently with dressing just before serving

Pear-Spinach Salad with Pecans: Serves 8

1) 2 ripe pears thinly sliced, 13 oz. baby spinach (2 pkgs.), 1 small, white onion thinly sliced,–1/4 cup melted butter, ¾ cup light brown sugar( divided), ¾ tsp. cinnamon (divided), 1 ½ cups pecan halves.

2) Dressing: Whisk 1/3 cup oil, ½ cup white wine vinegar, ¼ tsp. cinnamon, ¼ cup sugar, salt &pepper

3) Mix and spread on a foil-lined sheet, butter, ½ cup sugar, ½ tsp. cinnamon and nuts. Bake at 350 deg. for 20 min.stirring. Cool and separate nuts with a fork. Gently toss salad ingredients in a bowl, add dressing and garnish with nuts.

NOTE: *Craisins are sweetened dried cranberries. To make your own, Prick 2 cups cranberries with a pin. Boil 1 cups sugar and ¼ cup water until sugar dissolves, stir in berries, then transfer to a foil-lined sheet and bake at 300 deg. for 45 min. Spread on waxed paper and when almost dry roll in granulated sugar if a sweeter berry is wanted. Can be used as decorations on desserts or sprinkled over ice

GRAPES

Grapes and Baby Greens with Maple Dressing: Serves 6

1) 1 small yellow apple thinly sliced, 6 cups baby mixed greens, 1 cup seedless red grapes halved.

2)Dressing: Combine 1 Tbs. maple syrup, 1 thinly sliced scallion, 1tsp. lemon juice, ½ cup raspberry juice, whisk in 2 Tbs. olive oil

3) Arrange greens, top with fruits and drizzle with dressing.

Grapes with Honey Lime Dressing: Serves 4

1) 1 cup halved seedless grapes, 2 cups baby spinach leaves, ½ head radicchio-leaves in bite-sized pieces,

2)Stir together 1 Tbs. honey,3 Tbs. lime juice, whisk in 3 Tbs. oil, salt & pepper

3) Toss salad ingredients gently together, add dressing just before serving and toss again

APPLES

Nutty Apple Salad: Serves 4

1) 2 tart green apples in ½ inch dice, 2 Tbs. toasted slivered almonds,3 or 4 Belgian endives (see step #3)*

2) Combine 1 Tbs. lemon juice, 4 tsp.oil,1 tsp. minced garlic, pinch salt

3) Wash the endive with a damp cloth, thinly slice crosswise and mix in a bowl with apples and nuts, toss with dressing. OR Serve this as individual salads. Chop the apples in finer dice and mix with almonds in a bit of dressing. Separate the endive leaves into 12 or 16 equal piles, depending on size. Divide piles among 4 plates and fill each with a bit of the fruit-nut mix, drizzle with remaining dressing.

NOTE* Belgian endive leaves can be held by the stem end and eaten by hand, rather like a slice of pizza. In this way they can be used as dippers, like chips, to hold small amounts of food.

Apple-Jicama Salad: Serves 6

1)1medium jicama, 3 red apples, 1 small onion thinly sliced, 3 cups romaine leaves in bite-sized pieces, ¼ cup chopped fresh mint.

2) Dressing: Stir together ½ cup orange juice, 1 Tbs. EACH lime juice, cider vinegar, brown sugar, 1 Tbs. oil, to dissolve sugar

3)Cut jicama and cored apple into matchsticks. Toss with lettuce, mint and dressing. Garnish with mint leaves if desired.

Tomatoes

Tomato- Spinach Salad: Serves 4

1) 3 cups baby spinach leaves, ½ small white onion thinly sliced, 12-14 grape tomatoes sliced crosswise in 3 pieces

2) Dressing: ¼ cup of a good bottled Vidalia Onion dressing or more to taste

3) Combine ingredients in a bowl and drizzle dressing over, then toss gently.

Salad Margherita; Serves 4

1)3 cups baby spinach, or torn green leaf lettuce, 3 plum tomatoes quartered lengthwise then halved into eight pieces each, ½ small onion diced, 1/3 cup fresh mozzarella, slivered, ¼ cup fresh basil leaves chopped

2) Dressing: A ¼ cup good bottled Caesar dressing- or to taste

3) Combine ingredients in a bowl and drizzle dressing over, then toss gently. Garnish with Basil leaves

Dec 12

HOST A CAKE PARTY

It’s the holiday season again-full of decorations, lights, food and parties, lots of parties. There are people who want to entertain, celebrate the season with friends and return hospitality but, this year, with everything so expensive, they are thinking, not twice, but three or four times. Well, there’s a solution since this is the season when folks love traditions with new twists.

A dessert party (https://www.dinnerwithjoy.com/give-a-dessert-party/.) particularly a cake party is a solution. Consider the time and expense of providing a variety of canapes or snacks for a cocktail party or open house against four or five boxes of cake mixes, which can be made ahead, frozen and need only thawing to serve. Then calculate the cost of an open bar against a few bottles of dessert wine or liquor for cordial coffee recipes. The average cake serves 10-12 in normal sized slices, but twice that for a tasting, when people try several cakes.

This time of year, champagne and port are available in wide price ranges. Only small amounts of liquor are used In Irish Coffee, Mexican Coffee and other cordial coffee recipes. A vast difference in expense compared to an open bar—you do the math. This option offers an elegant, intriguingly novel type of party. The hours, 7 or 8 P.M. to 10 or 11 are acceptable on weekdays, especially in view of the limited beverage selection. It’s a lovely chance to visit with friends, which no one would ever guess was an economic choice.

A few years ago, I had a problem. I feature a full dessert table with the holiday meal but Christmas, then, as now, was a weekday. I had a full work schedule, some social obligations and was expecting house guests. I could schedule most of the other cooking, but didn’t know when I could find time to bake the desserts or how to keep them fresh. Obviously, they had to be made ahead and freezing seemed the best option, but frosted cakes were a new field. Sara Lee did it but could I, at home?

I’d had experience with pastry, especially the pies so popular at Thanksgiving but the desserts for that holiday are very different from the ones favored in December. Thanksgiving recipes are more basic, hardy and full flavored, featuring dishes like pumpkin mince and apple pie served in wedges. By comparison, desserts for the December holidays are elegant, the recipes more sophisticated, dependent on cooking techniques. They are visually decorative and lighter on the digestion; often able to be eaten by hand or served in slivers but it has to have visual appeal.

December holiday entertaining is usually the responsibility of the person hosting. For me, it’s important to have most of the cooking done before the day, especially the desserts. So I had a real scheduling problem with prepping that year and I decided to jump right in. I’m so glad I did because I found freezing even the most elegant desserts works. Now, I like to make them as I find time and have them ready ten days to a week ahead, some even more. I have a large freezer and I’m able to freeze finished baked goods, but for those with less room, cake layers can be stacked and stored while the icings can be kept in the refrigerator. Actually, cakes will keep, chilled, for several days, even in a cold garage.

Now, I have all my cakes iced and ready well in advance of the day they’re to be served. It gives me time to be creative and elaborate with decorating and garnishing them. Freezing an iced cake’s rather simple, but should be done on its serving plate. You will need waxed paper, several large plastic bags, and a package of paper dollies, toothpicks and a bag of marshmallows.
1) Place a doily on the plate and place or invert the cake onto the doily.
2) Gently lift the edges of the cake and place pieces of waxed paper between it and the doily, large enough to catch any icing drippings.
3) Ice cake. Remove the waxed paper.
4) Place a marshmallow on the end of 7-8 toothpicks-a typical round cake will take 4 around the side and at least 3 on top. Gently push the toothpicks securely into the cake as directed above or as needed for the shape of the cake. Do not let the marshmallows touch the icing-they will smear it.
5).Place a plastic bag over the cake, gathering the bag edges under the plate and using the weight of the cake and plate to secure the bag, place the cake on the freezer shelf.
6) TO THAW: Remove plastic bag and toothpicks. Allow at least 2hr. to thaw at room temp. When thawed use a butter knife to smooth over toothpick holes
7) Can be refrozen, just repeat procedure.

The following recipes provide this freedom, and serve as examples of how similar ones can be treated the same way.

RECIPES

Christmas Bread: People who normally hate fruitcake, like this, especially with a cup of coffee or tea, because it has a lighter texture—half way between bread and cake

This is kinda cheating because it’s based on two boxed Quick Bread mixes. I like Cranberry and Pumpkin, but have used Date and Nut as well. In fact, I might add them if I were to make more than 2 loaves.

If the mixes have different add-in requirements, I mix them in separate bowls and combine the batters. In each mix I replace half the liquid with red wine, which acts as a preservative.

Before adding that I toss a total of ½ cup chopped toasted nuts and ¾ cups mixed chopped, dried fruits in the dry flour. This prevents clumping in the batter.

I decorate the tops with whole nuts, candied cherries and colored sugar, then bake as directed in two loaf pans-one per box of mix used. When the loaves are cool to the touch, I move them from the pans to plates, sprinkle the tops with about 2 Tbs. of whiskey, cover them in plastic wrap These should be made in October, but they can be baked as little as 2 weeks before serving. The alcohol doesn’t taste, but preserves and deepens flavor. They are fine to serve children. In fact they make great breakfast bread.
List of ingredients: Yield (2) 9×4 inch loaves
2 boxes of Quick Bread mix- I prefer Pillsbury
½ cup chopped toasted walnuts or pecans
¾ cup mixed diced candied and dried fruit-raisins, craisins, apricot, pineapple
Half water-half red wine to equal amount of liquid required in box directions
Candied cherries, nut halves and colored decorative sugar for garish.
Whiskey to sprinkle over as the cakes mature

Bake at temperature and for time directed on boxes and follow instructions above.

Yule Log: Serves 16-18
Using boxed Gingerbread mix, I replace half the water with applesauce, add ¼ cup oil and use 2 eggs. Beat only until well incorporated – about 2 min.
Grease the bottom only of a 19 x 11 inch jelly roll pan. Line it with parchment paper and grease the paper. Preheat the oven to 350 deg., and bake on the middle rack for 16 to 18 min. until it springs back when poked lightly with a finger.Remove from the oven and sprinkle liberally with powdered sugar. Cover with a tea towel, and using a board as a brace invert the cake. Peel off the parchment and roll the long side of the cake in the towel. Resting the edge on the bottom let the cake cool completely.

To make the filling and frosting, beat 8 oz. cream cheese with 8 oz. Cool Whip until smooth adding 2 tsp. maple flavoring -or to taste, and add 1/3 cup chopped, toasted walnuts or pecans to half the cheese mixture.

Carefully unroll the cake and fill with the nut mixed cheese mixture. Re-roll. Trim ends evenly.

Cut a piece about 3 inches long from one end on an angle and position it along the “trunk” to form a branch. Secure it with a bit of frosting.

Frost the cake and add any decorations. Freeze until ready to serve. Allow to thaw 30 to 45 min.
List of ingredients
1 box gingerbread mix
Half water and half applesauce mixed to equal liquid required in box directions
2 eggs
½ cup oil
Powdered sugar
Filling and Frosting
8 oz. whipped topping
8 oz. Cream cheese
2 tsp. maple flavoring
1/3 cup chopped toasted walnuts or pecans

Roulade Cake recipe from The Cake Doctor by Ann Byrn explains how any flavor of cake mix can be baked into a log. The same filling can be used with a flavor change, other nuts and even chocolate chips.

Cake

1 box plain cake mix

1 cup buttermilk

½ cup vegetable, seed or nut oil

4 eggs

Confectioners’ sugar for dusting

Parchment paper

Butter for preparing pan

Make the cake: Butter the bottom only of a 16 ½ X 11 ½ X 1 inch jelly roll pan. Line it with the parchment, leaving a couple inches overlap on the ends, and butter the paper. Put the cake ingredients in a bowl and beat, scraping the sides, until batter is thick and combined about 3 min. Pour into the

prepared pan, smoothing it out with a spatula. Bake on the center rack of a preheated 350 deg. oven for 15-17 min. until it springs back when pressed with a finger. Liberally dust a clean kitchen towel and starting with the long side, carefully roll the cake away from you in the towel. Place seam side down on a flat surface to cool for about 20 min. Follow directions above for assembly.
NOTE: If the cake seems split in places, and it will as it’s rolled, the frosting will cover them. Garnish with sprinkled cinnamon or nuts.

MODIFIED OPERA CAKE Serves 10-12

(3) 9 inch round cake pans—available as a 3-pack in a dollar store

Parchment paper or waxed paper

Serves 0-12

3 eggs separated

6 Tbs. sugar

Dash salt

¾ cup sifted cake flour

½ tsp. vanilla

3 Tbs. sugar

Beat yolks, sugar and salt until light and fluffy, about 5 min. Fold in flour. Beat whites until soft peaks form and then beat, adding sugar, until peaks are stiff. Fold a glob of whites into yolk mixture, then fold in the rest. Pour into pans and bake at 325 deg. for 15 min. Ice and store as for box mix.

For authentic Opera Cake

3 eggs separated

6 Tbs. sugar

Dash salt

¾ cup sifted cake flour

½ tsp. vanilla

3 Tbs. sugar

Red Velvet Christmas Cake: Serves 12

A stunning cake can be made with the above technique baking the batter in 3 pans

1 box red velvet cake mix, baked according to directions in 3, 9 inch round pans. You will have to adjust

time, but see the Opera Cake above

Frosting

8 oz. cream cheese

8 oz. container of Cool Whip

Confectioners’ sugar to taste-optional

1 tsp. or to taste peppermint or other flavoring

Few drops green food coloring—optional

Beat the above ingredients together until smooth and creamy, adding sugar if desired to taste, flavoring and enough coloring to turn the mixture a light green. Frost the layers and then the outside of the cake. Decorate with sprigs of holly or crushed candy canes.

Pistachio Marble Cake: Serves 10–A great every day cake, but one which easily dresses up for holidays Requirements: 1 mixing bowl; 2 layer cake pans or 1 tube pan

1 box marble cake mix WITHOUT pudding included. White or yellow will do if you can’t find marble*

(1) 4 serving size box pistachio instant pudding and pie filling mix.

1 1/3 cup water

3 eggs

1/3 cup of oil

Cooking spray

3 Tbs. unsweetened cocoa powder*if you’re not using marble cake mix

This can be made in 2 layer pans but appears more attractive when cut if made in a tube or bunt pan. Prepare pan(s) by spraying liberally with cooking spray. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Beat the eggs, water, pudding mix and oil into the batter until it is smooth. See cake mix directions. Using a spoon, blend in ½ cup nuts, if using. Pour 2/3 of the batter into the prepared pan(s) if using a marble mix directions will say to add contents of the enclosed envelope to the remaining 1/3 batter in the bowl. * * If not, add the cocoa powder to 1/3 cup reserved batter and blend well. The cake box directions will now tell you to pour the chocolate batter over that in the pan(s) and using a table knife, blade down, in a cutting motion, gently swirl the top layer into the one below, creating a marble effect. If using a tube pan, go down to reach the bottom, but don’t overdo.

Bake the cake for the times dictated on the box for your choice of pan. Cool as directed and frost. Use the rest of the nuts as garnish. If using a pistachio frosting there is the option of garnishing with chocolate curls or chips.

Pistachio Frosting: Makes enough to fill and frost 2 layers

I don’t like very sugary frostings. So I’m offering 2 recipes here. The first is the classic Kraft recipe for pudding icing which is high in calories and fat. the second is my own creation.
1 Kraft Pudding Icing: Makes about 2 ½ cups

(1)4 oz. pkg. = ½ of 8 oz. pkg. cream cheese, softened

1 stick= ½ cup unsalted butter, softened

½ cups powdered sugar

1 pkg. (3.4 oz.) Pistachio flavor instant pudding and pie filling

Using an electric mixer beat together cream cheese and butter until well combined. Add pudding and beat on high speed until light and fluffy and pale in color, approximately 5 min. Gradually add powdered sugar and beat until fully incorporated and fluffy.

2 My Pudding Icing: Makes about 4 cups

(1) 8 oz. pkg. cream cheese

(1) 8oz. tub whipped topping

(1) 4 serving box of pistachio instant pudding and pie mix

Beat all 3 ingredients together until completely blended, smooth and spreadable

Combine ingredients and mix until smooth. Cover top of cake and decorate as desired.

Coconut Cake with Coconut Icing: Serves 10–From https://abountifulkitchen.com coconut-cake-made-with-box-mix//the-best-

3 large eggs

1 cup sour cream

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup cold water

3/4 cup coconut milk

1 white cake mix I like Duncan Hines

1 small package instant vanilla or coconut pudding

Icing

1/2 cup butter, softened

8 oz. cream cheese, room temperature

-5 cups powdered sugar

Dash of salt

2 tablespoons milk or half and half

(1)7-10 oz. coconut flakes, sweetened

Grease and line 2-9 inch cake pans with parchment paper. Preheat oven to 350 degrees and set rack in center of oven. Beat eggs, sour cream, vanilla, water and coconut milk until blended well. Add cake mix and instant pudding.* Mix only till smooth. Pour batter into pans; sprinkle a little coconut on top of cakes, if desired. Bake at 350 deg. for about 25-30 min. or until toothpick inserted in middle comes out clean. Invert onto rack and let cool completely.

Black Forrest Brownie Swirl: Yield 24 brownies

1 box brownie mix (24 oz.)

1 can cherry pie filling

1/4 cup oil

3 eggs

¼ cup sugar

8 oz. cream cheese

1 tsp. vanilla

Candied cherries

Prepare brownie mix using oil and 2 eggs and ½ cup pie filling until well mixed. Stir in and lightly beat another ½ cup pie filling, leaving some cherry chunks.

Beat cheese, 1 egg, sugar and vanilla until smooth. Pour over brownie mix and cut through with a knife several times to give a marble effect. Arrange candied cherries over the top. Bake at 350 deg. 35-30min. until cheese is set and beginning to tan. Cool in pan and cut.

Pecan Bars: Yield 24 squares

1 box pecan cake mix

1/3 cup cooking oil

2 large eggs

8 oz. cream cheese

1/3 cup sugar

2 tsp. Maple flavoring

1-2 Tbs. milk

Beat the cake mix with the oil and 1 egg until crumbly-about 1 ½ -2 min. Reserve 1 cup; press the rest onto the bottom only of a 9 x 13 inch ungreased baking pan. Bake on middle rack of a preheated 350 deg. oven 13-15 min. until golden. Leave oven on. In beating bowel, with the same beaters, combine cheese, sugar flavoring and 1 Tbs. milk. Beat until creamy adding other Tbs. milk as needed. Top with reserved cup of crumbs. Bake about 15 min. until top is golden. Cool and cut into squares.

Oct 24

CRANBERRIES-MORE THAN JELLY

The ‘Autumn Experience’, the crisp shorter days, the chilly longer nights, the bright falling leaves and the constant reminders of holidays ahead, is so powerful it often overshadows full appreciation of the harvest of the Harvest Season. Fall has as robust a produce yield as spring or summer. There are marvelous vegetable, beets, kale, turnips, Brussel sprouts, cauliflower and squash etc. and five major fruits: pumpkin, summer’s last gift (Sept.26, 2024& Nov. 8, 2018), apples (Nov.2, 2017 & Oct. 1, 2020), grapes (Oct. 29, 2020), pears (Nov. 16, 2017) and cranberries (Nov. 30, 2017 &Nov. 24, 2018 & Oct. 31, 2019)

All these fruits are wonderful ingredients for dishes served throughout a meal, but they truly shine in desserts. I’ve given links to articles about each if you want to try some recipes, with the holidays approaching. Today, I want to talk about cranberries, because not only are they under used but, if you’re a Christmas turkey family as we are, I see some problems on the horizon.

Cranberries, native to North America, are unique. They are grown in fields called ‘bogs’ and are not picked randomly as other berries, but grow apace, ripening at the same time. When the fruit is mature, the bogs are flooded, the berries pop off the bushes and float to the surface where they are scooped up. It should be noted that cranberries are dry, hard and bitter, completely inedible. The flooded bogs are then allowed to freeze solid and the ice protects the bushes until spring, when the bogs are drained and the bushes grow as any other berry.

Given the fact that there is only one harvest per year, one understands why fresh cranberries have such a short season. However they keep for two months in the fridge and I know they keep frozen, simply in their bags, for a year-probably longer but I always run out. Cranberry compote, quick and easy to make, can be canned and also freezes well and is wonderful alone, with other fruits, as a pastry filling or a companion to poultry pork or game.

So I question why this low Cal, high fiber, vitamin packed fruit is only preserved, commercially, as juice, jelly and a jam-like sauce (not compote)? Nothing to use as an ingredient in the many delicious cranberry recipes available and even those items have become hard to find after Thanksgiving. I traditionally made a mold of whole berry sauce and orange for Christmas. Now I make a salsa from berries I’ve stored.

I love cranberries’ sweet-tart taste and enjoy them all year, but especially like to serve them over the December holidays. Their bright red color and distinctive flavor are perfectly attuned to the season. They’re just coming to market now, so please, please do you a favor and try some of these recipes to repeat later and stock up on enough berries to see yo through the winter holidays.

Below are recipes for simple cranberry compote, salsa and 13 delicious dessert recipes. If you want to see recipes for using the berries in dishes served in other meal courses, click on Nov. 30, 2017.

RECIPES

Compote: Yield about 2 ¾ cups cranberries- From Recipes 1-2-3 by Rozanne Gold
3 cups cranberries
2/3 cup brown sugar
¾ cup dried cherries
12 black peppercorns OR freshly ground black pepper
Pinch salt
Bring sugar, salt and pepper to a boil in 1 cup water, add fruits. Return to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for about 10 min. until berries have popped and sauce has thickened. Cool then chill.

My Easy Cranberry Salsa: Yield a bit over 1 cup with recipe, over 2 cups using canned sauce —all measurements are approximate and can be adjusted. (1) 14 oz. can whole berry sauce can be substituted for the *marked ingredients, making this super easy

1 cup cranberries*
¼ cup packed brown sugar*
¼ cup finely diced onion
½ green bell pepper diced
Meat of 1 orange
1/3 cup orange peel in fine Julianne no more than ½ inch long
½ tsp. finely diced jarred jalapeño pepper- optional and to taste OR freshly ground black pepper
Mix everything together, adjust flavors and allow to sit, covered, in the refrigerator for several days before serving. Excellent with poultry, pork, ham and veal.
NOTE: Keeps chilled for several weeks

Angel Pie: Serves 6-8: From James Beard’s American Cookery

4 egg whites

1 cup sugar

¼ tsp. cream of tartar

Filling

4 egg yolks

½ cup sugar

1/3 tsp. salt

1 tsp. lemon juice

¾ cup strained whole berry cranberry sauce

1 cup whipping cream

Beat egg whites to soft peaks and gradually add sugar and cornstarch, beating to stiff peaks. Spread in a well-oiled pie plate and bake at 300 deg. for 1 hr. When golden, turn off oven and allow to cool on rack

with door ajar.

For the filling, beat the yolks slightly and place in a double boiler with the salt and lemon juice. Stir until beginning to thicken and add ¾ cup strained cranberry sauce using heated, strained whole berry sauce OR prick 1 cup cranberries and place in a pan with ¼ cup water. When it begins to boil add the ½ cup sugar. Boil 5 min. until translucent and cool; stir until thick. Strain and have ready to add to pie filling.

Whip cream; spread half in shell, spoon in filling then, top with the remaining cream and chill 24 hr. or overnight.

NOTE: Keeps for 2 days in the refrigerator but reserve and spoon on the top layer of cream just before serving

Angel Nests: Serves 6-8

3 egg whites

1 cup sugar

1 Tbs. flour

1 Tbs. cornstarch

Compote-see next recipe or cranberry compote-11/30/17

Beat egg whites to soft peaks; add sugar gradually beating until stiff peaks form, adding flour and cornstarch along the way. Shape the mixture on an 8 inch round template, using the back of a fork to raise and pattern the sides into a nest shape. Bake at 250 degrees for 60 min. Leave in oven for 30 min. then cool on a wire rack*. Fill centers with cranberry compote (post 11/30/17), Cranberry-Pear Compote (below), sauce or prick 2 cups cranberries and place in a pan with ¼ cup water. When it begins to boil add the 1 cup sugar. Boil 5 min. until translucent. Cool before filling meringue nest.

I would imagine Angel Cakes can be made in individual portions, and would be most attractive. Judging by the timing to cook basic meringues, I don’t think there would be much adjustment to the directions either. Something you might want to try.

*NOTE: Nest can be made several weeks ahead and stored in an air-tight container.

Cranberry-Pear Compote in Syrup: Serves 4 Serves 6 using suggestion below* From Rozanne Gold’s Recipes 1-2-3

2 large Bosc or Comice pears

2 cups cranberries

1 cup sugar

2 cups water

Peel, core pears and cut each into 8 slices. Bring water and sugar to a boil, When sugar is dissolved, add fruit and simmer 30 min. or until pears are firm-tender. Remove fruit, cool and chill. Boil syrup down to ¾ to 1 cup, cool to room temp and pour over fruit and, if not serving at once, chill. After serving save any extra syrup to use over pancakes etc.

*Serving suggestion: Present bowl of fruit accompanied by slices of pound cake to act as bedding. This raises the portion total to 6.

NOTE: The compote will hold about 5 days in the refrigerator. Do not freeze.

Cranberry Orange Walnut Ice Cream: Serves 6-Very quick and easy to make.

2 cups cranberries

¾ cup sugar

1 orange –quartered, seeds removed

½ cup chopped, toasted walnuts

1 pint vanilla ice cream- softened

Coarsely chop berries and orange, with rind. Stir in sugar and blend fruit mix, making sure the orange rind is pulverized, add walnuts and stir into softened ice cream. Pour into a mold and freeze until firm. Unmold and serve garnished with cranberries and walnuts. Or spoon ice cream into a freezer container; a couple of hours before serving fill a decorative freezer-proof bowl with individual scoops of ice cream and spoon them into dessert dishes at table

*This ice cream recipe is packed with fruit. I love it this way but some people, especially children, may prefer it if the quantity of vanilla ice cream is doubled in proportion to the fruit.

NOTE: Keeps as long as commercial ice cream in the freezer.

Cranberry Sherbet: Makes 2 quarts-From The Joy of Cooking

1 packet unflavored gelatin

2 cups cold water

1 cup boiling water

3 Tbs. lemon juice

¾ cup sugar

1 cup bottled cranberry juice

Soften gelatin in ½ cup cold water for 15 min. dissolve in boiling water. Add all the other ingredients and simmer, stirring until sugar dissolves. Pour into a mold or ice trays. I like to puree it when it’s almost frozen solid. This eliminated ice crystals and smooths it.

NOTE: Keeps as long as a commercial product in the freezer.

Cranberry Refrigerator Cake: Serves 6-8-From America’s Cookbook

3 cups cranberries

1 ½ cups water

1/3 cup raisins

3 figs- finely chopped

1/3 cup chopped walnuts

10 dates- finely chopped

1 cup sugar

1 small sponge or pound cake

Cook cranberries in water until skins pop; strain, pushing down on solids. Add fruits and nuts to strained juice, mix, cover and simmer 5 min .Remove from heat, add sugar, stir to dissolve and cool, return cranberries to mix. Line a greased mold with the cake slices, add a layer of the fruit mix, then a layer of cake, repeat, ending with cake. Chill in refrigerator, unmold and serve with whipped cream.

NOTE: Keeps for 2-3 days.

Cranberry-Nut Refrigerator Torte: Serves 12-16-From The Settlement Cookbook

2 ¼ cups flour

1 cup sugar

¼ tsp. salt

1 tsp. EACH baking powder AND baking soda

1 cup chopped walnuts

1cup cranberries

1 cup chopped dates

2 oranges – zest grated-juice reserved

2 eggs beaten

1 cup buttermilk OR plain yogurt (see note*)

¾ cup oil

1 cup orange juice-includes reserved juice from oranges

1cup sugar

Sift first 5 dry ingredients together. Stir in nuts, fruits and zest. Lightly beat or whisk eggs, buttermilk and oil and add to flour mixture. Stir until blended. Pour into a greased 10 inch tube pan. Bake in a 350 deg. pre-heated oven for 1 hr. Let stand in pan until lukewarm. Remove to a rack placed over a wide dish. Combine orange juice and 1 cup sugar and pour over cake. Set cake in a deep refrigerator or freezer proof dish and pour drippings over cake again. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill at least 24hr. before serving. Dust top with sugar if desired.

NOTE: Cake keeps in refrigerator for 2 weeks or more, frozen for several months but thaw before serving.

Cranberry Cream Cheese Pie: Serves 6-8-From The Journal Cookbook

(1) 9 inch pie shell-almost baked

20 oz. cream cheese

1 cup sugar

1 ½ Tbs. flour

¼ tsp. EACH orange and lemon zest

Pinch Salt

3 eggs, +1 egg white

2 Tbs. cream

½ tsp. vanilla

TOPPING

1 can whole cranberry sauce

2 Tbs. sugar

1 ½ Tbs. cornstarch

1 tsp. EACH lemon juice and zest

Whip the cheese fluffy; add the next 4 ingredients and beat to mix well. Add the eggs and white separately, beating well after each; add the cream and vanilla and mix until well blended. Pour in the pie shell and bake in a preheated 450 deg. oven 7 min. Reduce heat to200 deg. and bake 15 min. Cool.

Combine first 3 topping ingredients in a saucepan and stir over low heat until clear; blend in juice and zest. Cool and spread over cheese filling. Chill until serving.

Cranberry-Raisin Pie: Serves 6-8*- From America’s Cookbook

Pastry for a 2 crust pie**

1 cup cranberries-halved

½ cup raisins

½ cup diced apple

¼ cup chopped walnuts or pecans–optional

1 tsp. butter-melted

¾ cup sugar

1 Tbs. flour

Combine all ingredients and fill a pastry lined pie tin. Top with another pastry round. Slash the top and bake at 350 deg. For 40 min.**Optionally, cut the top crust into strips. This colorful filling is attractive with a lattice top.

*Easy Substitutes: 1) Use the compote listed above to fill the pastry lined pie tin, cover with 2nd, round and proceed as above.

Cranberry Crisp: Serves 6

12 oz. fresh cranberries=2 cups

1/3 cup sugar

½ cup chopped walnuts

1 egg

½ cup of flour

½ cup sugar

¾ cup butter- melted

Lightly grease a 9 inch pie plate. Fill with berries, top with 1/3 cup sugar and nuts. Beat egg until foamy, beat in butter, flour and remaining sugar until batter is smooth. Pour over berries. Bake in a preheated 325 deg. oven until browned, about 45 min. This is best served warm with ice cream or whipped cream.

NOTE: This can be stored, before baking, the berries in the pie plate, covered, and the batter in a container in the refrigerator for about 3 days. Combine and bake.

Chocolate Cranberry Biscotti: Yield 30-Adapted from Diabetic Desserts. There are many recipes for these biscotti, but I chose this because it tastes wonderful and is acceptable for this very specific diet. The nutritional information is below. The cocoa powder is optional for those who don’t like chocolate.

3 cups flour

2/3 cup sugar

1 tsp. vanilla

½ cup dried cranberries

1/3 cup sliced toasted almonds

2 Tbs. skim milk

Combine first 4 ingredients. Beat eggs, sugar and vanilla until well blended, add flour mix and beat to blend. Stir in fruit and nuts. Turn dough out on a lightly floured board and knead 4-6 times, roll into a 20 inch log, place on a lightly oiled baking sheet and brush with milk. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven for 30 min. Cool 10 min. and cut into 30 slices. Place slices on the cookie sheet and cook 20 min. turning once. Cool on racks and store airtight.

Cranberry Cake: Serves 8-10

5 Tbs. butter- 1 Tbs. reserved

2 ½ cups flour

1 cup sugar

2 eggs

¾ cup milk

2 tsp. baking powder

1tsp. vanilla

1 tsp. cinnamon

2 cups cranberries

1 cup sugar

1/4 cup water

Prick cranberries and place in a pan with the water. When it begins to boil add the 1 cup sugar. Boil 5 min. until translucent and cool. Grease a spring form pan. Cut 4 Tbs. butter into flour and sugar. When mix is in pea sized pieces, remove ¾ cup and reserve. To mixture in bowl, add eggs, milk, baking powder and vanilla and beat until batter is smooth. Pour batter into prepared pan and spread up and around sides of pan, lining pan and forming a hollow in the center. Use strained cranberry mixture to fill the hollow in the batter, reserving any extra for decoration or other use. Work remaining butter and cinnamon into the reserved to form crumbs and sprinkle over the top of the cake. Bake in a preheated 400 deg. oven for 8 min. Reduce heat and bake for 30 min. at 350 deg. Cool on a rack for 5 min. and loosen edges with a knife before opening pan latch. Can be served warm.

Easy Berry Cream Cake: Serves 4-6–A quick, elegant answer to the problem of providing a nice dessert when there isn’t time to prepare one from scratch, and a tasty end to a meal anytime.

1 Pound cake – purchased or made from a mix*

1 can whole berry sauce – 2 cans for a larger cake

1 pint whipping cream or 1 container of whipped topping—2 for a larger cake

Cut the cake into 3 layers using toothpicks, a ruler and a knife OR 2 layers for a small pound cake. Spread

½ topping on cut side of a layer, cover with sauce, add another cake layer and repeat. On top layer spoon sauce in a decorative line down the center of the top. Refrigerate until serving.

Variation: For a large or round regular vanilla cake. Add to ingredients

1 box Vanilla Pudding mix

Combine the pudding mix and berries with juice, reserving 2 Tbs. berries, in a saucepan and bring just to a boil. Remove from heat and chill. Whip the cream and fold all but 1/3 cup into the chilled berry mixture. Spread on the two or three cake layers. Garnish the top with the reserved cream then the reserved berries.

*1 lb. boxed pound cakes can be purchased from The Dollar Store

Sep 26

PUMPKIN DESSERTS

Now it’s time to discuss the last of the summer fruits-Pumpkin. That’s right, Pumpkin, related to the berry family and planted in spring, is considered the last harvest of summer fruits. However, the timing, combined with the bright orange color and the scent of its signature spice mix, recipe below, make pumpkin as iconic to autumn as falling leaves. Although interchangeable with all other squash in various dishes, pumpkin is best known for desserts. (For other pumpkin and squash dishes see posts Pumpkin Everywhere Oct.19, 2023 and It’s Squash Season Oct.27, 2922)

Even if you don’t like pie, or aren’t fond of pumpkin, you’re sure to find something you like in the list of -14 recipes below. This is a great time to try a few before the holidays, or alter some, as I do Pumpkin Bread, to make ahead for the winter holidays (directions included).

I’m going to make the discussion short this week because the recipes are so long, but remember that all these dishes are for any of the winter squash, pumpkin, butternut, acorn, calabasa -all of them. The cooking directions remain unchanged and the cavities should always be cleaned before cooking, unless steaming whole. Also please remember that the pumpkin on your doorstep, treated properly, can be an investment in a wonderful meal or two. So long as you don’t cut into it, or allow it to freeze and thaw, or for those in warm climates, expose it to direct hot sun, it will happily do double duty as decoration and dinner.

For fuller information on pumpkins, or winter squash in general, please consult last week’s posts and visit the archives to read the postings of Nov. 8, 2012 and Oct. 21, 2014. Simply click “Blog” on the Home Page header and on the right side of any blog page you’ll see a “Select Month” button. You can then choose the proper month and year and pull up the posting.

RECIPES

Sliced Pumpkin Tart: Serves 6
1 cup water
¼ cup sugar
½ tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. cornstarch
½ cup apricot preserves
! Tbs. toasted chopped walnuts
1 baked 9-inch tart shell—commercial or homemade
Scrub squash, cut in quarters and remove seeds and pulp. Place shell side down in a Dutch oven with the water, sprinkle with sugar and simmer, covered 20-30 min. until tender, reserve juices. Cool pieces on a rack over a pan. Measure drippings and add reserved cooking liquid to measure ½ cup. Stir together cinnamon and cornstarch in a saucepan; gradually add the ½ cup liquid. Boil mixture until thickened and stir in preserves off heat. Peel squash, slice quarters into 2 inch wide strips then cut crosswise into 1/8 inch thick pieces. Spoon 2 cup squash into tart shell, making a flat layer and pour on half the sauce. Arrange the rest of the squash pieces in circles and cover with the rest of sauce. Garnish with walnuts. Chill at least 3 hours.

Pumpkin Nut Bread
2 cups flour
2 tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. cinnamon
½ tsp. nutmeg
½ tsp. salt
½ cup milk
1 cup pumpkin
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
¼ cup butter or margarine
½ cup chopped nuts-walnuts or pecan
Powdered sugar
Sift dry ingredients together . Combine everything else but the nuts in a large bowl and beat until blended. Beat in flour mix just until smooth, and then stir in nuts.
Pour batter into a greased and floured 9x5x3 inch loaf pan. Bake in a preheated 350deg.oven 50-60 min. until tester
comes out clean. Cool in pan 10 min. then remove from pan and cool on a wire rack. Serve dusted with powdered sugar, cut in thin slices.

To make a Holiday Bread
¾ cup chopped candied and dried fruits—apricots, pineapple (chopped) craisins and raisins
Candied cherries and nut halves for decoration
½ cup red wine—to replace milk
2 Tbs. whisky
Toss fruits with the dry ingredients to separate and coat them. Mix batter as directed above but instead of using a beater, stir in flour mix as with a quick bread. Remove from oven after about 20 min. when risen, and place decorations on top. Return to oven and continue baking. The reason, here, is that the decorative fruits sink into the batter as it rises if put on at the start. Cool on a rack, sprinkle with whisky or wine, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate. For the first couple of weeks, remove, re-sprinkle with whisky, re-wrap and return to fridge. Will keep for months.

Peach Pumpkin Cake
1can (1 lb. 13oz.) peach halves in heavy syrup
1 ½ cups flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. salt
½ tsp. cinnamon
½ tsp. nutmeg
½ cup oil
1cup sugar
2eggs
1cup pumpkin
1/3 cup pecan halves
¼ cup peach preserves
Drain peaches reserving ¼ cup syrup and set halves aside to drain well. Sift dry ingredients. Beat oil and sugar in a bowl until well combined then beat in eggs one at a time, beat in pumpkin then flour mix at low speed just until combined. Pour batter into a greased and floured 10 inch spring form pan. Arrange peaches and nuts on top. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven 40-45 min. until top springs back when pressed with a fingertip. Combine reserved syrup with preserves and bring to a boil until preserves melt. Remove cake from pan to a serving plate. Brush with glaze. Serve warm or cool.

Pumpkin Flan Serves 8
¾ cup sugar

Custard

1 cup pumpkin
1 cup milk
1 cup light cream
6 eggs
½ cup sugar
½ tsp. salt
2 tsp. vanilla
1/3 cup brandy
Boiling water
2 Tbs. brandy
Cook sugar in a large heavy skillet over medium heat stirring until it melts into a light brown syrup. Immediately pour syrup into a heated 8 ½ inch round shallow baking dish. Using pot holders swirl to cover bottom and sides. Set aside. In a saucepan combine pumpkin, milk and cream. Stirring to blend, heat over low until bubbles form around the edges. In a large bowl, beat eggs slightly then add sugar, salt and vanilla. Gradually stir in the hot milk mix and the 1/3 cup brandy. Pour into the prepared dish. Set dish in a baking pan and add boiling water to a depth of ½ inch. Bake in a preheated 325 deg. oven 50-60 min. until a silver knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Col custard and refrigerate overnight.

To serve: run a spatula around the edge to loosen and invert onto a serving plate. At the table, pour the 2 Tbs. brandy into a ladle, ignite and pour flaming over the flan.

Cold Pumpkin Chiffon Pie –This should be made a day ahead, because it needs to be well chilled. The pie filling can also be made in a mold and served as a mousse.
Needed –Double Boiler (also called a Bain Marie) and an 8 inch pie plate.
1 pie crust – home-made or purchased – baked*
1 Tbs. gelatin
¼ cup cold water
1 1/2 cups cooked pumpkin – 1 can
½ cup sugar
¼ tsp. salt
1 tsp. cinnamon + dash for pastry.+ dash for nuts.
1-2 Tbs. sugar for pastry + 1 Tbs. for nuts
½ tsp. ginger
2 eggs – separated
1 cup milk
¼ cup toasted spiced walnut pieces **
Line the pie plate with pastry, crimp or flute, and bake in a preheated 450 degree oven for 10 – 15 min, until brown.* If homemade, incorporate dash cinnamon, and 2 Tbs. sugar into the dough. If purchased, sprinkle cinnamon and 1 Tbs. sugar over the pastry in the pan.
Soften gelatin in cold water. Combine pumpkin, ¼ cup sugar, salt, spices, slightly beaten egg yolks and milk. Cook over boiling water 5 min, stirring constantly. Add softened gelatin and stir until gelatin is dissolved. Chill until slightly thickened. Beat egg whites until stiff, (remember to use clean beaters) and gradually add remaining ¼ cup sugar. Fold into thickened pumpkin mixture. Pour into lined pie plate and garnish with nuts. Chill until firm.

*To stop an empty pie shell from buckling, line the bottom with a piece of foil filled with about a cup of raw rice or dried beans. Remove the foil after 10 min. if the crust isn’t brown enough by then. An alternative method is to prick the crust several times with a fork, but this allows juices from the filling to seep through and make it soggy after a few hours. The beans and rice are reusable in future pies, but if you plan on frequent baking, go to a home hardware center and buy 18 – 24 inches of the beaded chain used to make key chains. It works beautifully!

**Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Melt a thin sliver of butter on a piece of foil. Toss walnuts in butter, separate into one layer allowing ample room, sprinkle with 1 Tbs. of sugar and a dash of cinnamon. Toast for 6-8 min. until beginning to brown. Remove from oven, trying not to disturb the coating, allow to cool completely. Sprinkle nuts over the pie, and gently press, if needed, to make them stick.

A Twist on Classic Pumpkin Pie
One of the very best Pumpkin Pie recipes is Libby’s. I’m not going to copy it here because it’s on every can of that brand of pumpkin and at this season featured in every ad for that product, as well as headlined on the Libby’s website. However I do have a twist to add to it.

Anyone who reads this blog knows I’m a huge fan of meringue. It can be used in so many ways, not the least of which is to dress up a dish while keeping the contents from drying out. This is true of adding a meringue topping to pumpkin pie.

For a normal 8-9 inch pie, beat 2 egg whites until soft peaks form, then gradually add ¼ cups sugar and beat to stiff, glossy peaks. Using a spatula, spread meringue over the top of the pie covering the filling up to but not touching the crust. Swirl, leaving a few peaks. Bake in a 300 deg. oven for about 20 min until edges begin to brown. Cool to room temperature.

Nut Topping: Mix 2/3 cup pecans or walnuts+ 2/3 cup brown sugar + 3 Tbs. butter. Sprinkle over pi. Place in a 425 deg. oven until it begins to melt. Spoon over pie.

Eggnog Cream: Reduce 2 cups commercial eggnog over low heat, by half about 20-25min. Chill well and spoon over pie before serving or pass on the side.

Meringue: Beat 2 egg whites until soft peaks form, add 1-2 drops vinegar and continue beating adding ¼ cup sugar gradually until stiff peaks form. Swirl over chilled pie, covering top, but not crust. Place in a 425 deg. oven until peaks turn golden.

Pumpkin Cheese Cake: Serves 12–From Philadelphia Cream Cheese Classic Recipes
Crust
2 cups gingersnap crumbs
½ cup finely chopped pecans
6 Tbs. melted butter
Filling
(3) 8 oz. cream cheese- softened
1 cup sugar-divided
3 eggs
1 tsp. vanilla
1 cup canned pumpkin
1 tsp. cinnamon
¼ tsp. nutmeg
Dash cloves
Mix crust ingredients and press over bottom and 2 inches up the sides of a 9 inch spring form pan. Chill.
Mix ¾ cup sugar, cheese and vanilla on medium until blended, add eggs, beating on low, until just Spoon ½ the pumpkin batter into the crust, top with spoonfuls of plain. Repeat layers. Cut through batters with a knife several times to get the marble effect.
Bake at 325 deg. for 55 min. if using a silver tone pan, 300 deg. if using a dark, nonstick one. Run a knife around the edge to loosen the cake. Cool before removing pan sides. Chill 4hours or overnight.

Pumpkin Cheesecake Cupcakes: Yield 16
Paper baking cup liners
18 gingersnaps
12 oz. cream cheese
¾ cup sugar
1 Tbs. corn starch
1Tbs. Pumpkin Pie Spice
2 eggs
1cup canned pumpkin
1/3 cup light Karo syrup
Line muffin tins and put 1 gingersnap in each cup. Beat next 4 ingredients until blended, add eggs and blend, add pumpkin and syrup and beat 1 min. until smooth. Divide filling among cups and bake in a preheated 325 deg. oven for 30-35 min. until just set. Cool and chill well. Garnish with cinnamon, nuts, or gingersnap crumbs.

Pumpkin Ice Cream Pie: Serves 6 – From Dream Dinners by Stephanie Allen and Tina Kuna
(1) 9 x 13 inch baking dish-sprayed with nonstick spray
Crust
2 cups crushed graham crackers
¼ cup butter-melted
1 ¼ cup sugar+ 2 Tbs.
Filling
1 can pumpkin
1 tsp. EACH salt and ginger
½ tsp. nutmeg
1 ½ tsp. cinnamon
2 cups whipped topping
½ tsp. vanilla
3 cups vanilla ice cream-softened
½ cup chopped pecans
Combine the crust ingredients and press into the bottom of the prepared dish. Fold the pumpkin and spices together and spread over the crust. Stir the topping, ice cream and vanilla until well mixed and spread over the pumpkin. Sprinkle with the pecans. Cover and freeze, or cover and wrap with foil and freeze for up to 3 months.

Lite Pumpkin Cake: Serves 16- From Eat Up and Slim Down by Jane Kirby and David Joachim
1 can pumpkin
1 ½ cups skim milk
¾ cup non-fat dry milk
6 egg whites
¾ cup sugar
1 ½ tsp. EACH cinnamon and allspice
9 oz. yellow cake mix
1/3 cup brown sugar
¼ cup butter
¾ cup chopped walnuts
Spray a 13 x 9 inch baking dish. Beat pumpkin and milks until smooth. Add eggs, sugar and spices. Pour into pan. Combine cake mix and sugar and cut in butter until crumbly. Sprinkle over pumpkin mix and scatter walnuts over all. Cover with foil and bake at 350 deg.45 min. Uncover and bake 15-20 min. until golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in pan before slicing. Freezes well.

Pumpkin Loaf: Serves 12
Batter
½ cup olive oil
1 ½ cups EACH flour and sugar
2 eggs
1 cup pumpkin
1/3 cup milk* see option
1tsp. EACH baking soda, cinnamon and ginger
½ cup chopped pecans
Salt.
Topping
½ cup chopped pecans
¼ cup packed brown sugar
2Tbs. olive oil
Preheat oven to 350deg.and spray a 9×5 inch loaf pan with non-stick spray. Stir oil and sugar together, stir in eggs and blend. Combine dry ingredients and add to pumpkin, mixing well. Stir in nuts. Pour batter into pan. Combine topping ingredients with fingers until crumbly and scatter over the batter. Bake 55-60 min. until a toothpick comes out clean. Cool 10min.and remove from pan.\

Stuffed Pumpkin – Adapted from Try-Foods Int. Inc. recipes
These recipes are for the small individual pumpkins, sometimes called decorative, about the size of acorn squash. If you can’t find them substitute acorn squash.
Cut the pumpkins lengthwise in half and seed. Place halves cut side down in a pan with 1 inch water. Cover and bake at 350 deg. for 45 min. Drain and return to dish cut side up. Fill with one of the following.
NOTE: Pumpkin and squash halves can also be cooked in a microwave. Place them cut side down in a safe dish, covered and cook on high for 6-9 min. I prefer the oven because the shell remains firmer and holds its shape better.

Apple Stuffing :Serves 4
2 pumpkins-halved lengthwise and seeded
2 medium apples, peeled and diced
2 Tbs. butter
½ cup chopped pecans
½ cup apple juice
2 Tbs. brown sugar
½ tsp. nutmeg
Salt
Sauté all ingredients in butter for 5 min. Spoon into squash, return to oven and bake 15 min. more or until apples are tender.

Pumpkin Fruit Cups: Serves 6
3 pumpkins-halved lengthwise and seeded
1 large cooking apple-peeled, cored and diced
3 Tbs. raspberry jam
1 Tbs. honey
4 tsp. butter
1 ½ cups fresh cranberries
Heat jam, honey and butter until bubbly, add cranberries and cook until they pop. Add apples and spoon into pumpkin. Bake at 375 deg. 15 min. Serve hot.

Sep 19

EASY PRESERVES (JAMS) and COMPOTES

Humans are able to, almost magically, remove all traces of summer during the first week of September and focus on new fall projects and schedules. However, Mother Nature doesn’t follow the human calendar. She takes a few weeks more to work with summer produce before declaring a season change and introducing her autumn fruits and vegetables.

Late summer produce, though not as picture-perfect as that picked at peak season, has benefits of its own. It’s often sold in bulk, especially at arm Markets, and it has less water content, therefore firmer textured flesh, which holds up better in processing, particularly cooing.

So now is the time to preserve some summer produce, ether as gifts or as bright reminders of sunny days during cold winter ones. I’ve posted on this subject several times, even focusing on specific items, strawberries (May 18, 2J017), zucchini (Sept15, 2016), gifts (Sept.10, 2013), two comprehensive posts on freezing (Sept. 13, 2018 and Sept. 20, 2018) and two others (Sept.23, 2016 and Sept. 10, 2020)

Then an article in the May-June 2024 Cook’s Illustrated, simplifying preserves or jams, made me realize I’d overlooked not only that option but also my very favorite method of processing fresh fruit, compotes. Jams are familiar to everyone but compotes may need a bit of definition.

I love compotes and make them of fresh fruit year round. Basically, they’re classified as a sauce but, depending on the amount of water added, they can be used in many ways: as a breakfast or dessert dish, optionally with cream, as a spread or sauce, as a stuffing for pastry, optionally thickened with cornstarch, as a toping for other foods, cakes, cereals, meats, as a basis for salsa.-it’s a long list. Compotes can be made using frozen fruit, and, I’ve discovered, re-frozen. They’re a healthy choice too because they need only enough sugar to off-set the tartness of the fruit, not enough to turn them into a confection. The first time you make one, add the sugar gradually, taste often and you’ll be fine.

Jam or preserves are familiar and loved from childhood. The recipes are similar to those for compotes and jam can also be used as a filling for small pastries or spread between cake layers but it’s too sweet to be served as a dish. Moreover, in jam, the fruit s mashed and jam has a gel to make it spread evenly and easily.

TIP: If you don’t have time to make these now, buy and freeze the fruit. That way you can make them when you wish later, and be able to offer them, freshly made all winter.

RECIPES
COMPOTES

General Directions Compotes: With many berries available in market all year this is a great way to add variety to menus. Use only raw fresh or frozen fruit. The amount of sugar varies with the fruit used, purpose of dish and personal preference. Add it gradually and allow to meld in before adding more. Do the same with the water. Start with 1 Tbs. and let the fruit thaw or cook a bit before adding more. Proceed with caution. A sauce needs more fluid than a filling and frozen contains more water than fresh fruit*. This also allows for adjusting individual mixtures to their intended purpose. Note: making compote is a quick process, so give it your full attention.

12 -16 oz. prepared fruit-washed, sorted, sliced including strawberries if large, stemmed, cored, stoned and peeled if necessary, but left whole or in large pieces.
3 Tbs.-1/4 cup (or optionally more) sugar to taste.
1-3 Tbs. or + water*-depending on fruit used and intended use fillings need less liquid, sauces more.
Put fruit in a saucepan, over medium heat, with 1 Tbs. water and 1 Tbs. sugar. Stirring regularly, but gently to avoid breaking fruit pieces, watch as fruit thaws and/or begins to cook and wilt. Add 1 Tbs. water and 1 Tbs. sugar continue stirring and add water by tablespoon as necessary and sugar by tablespoon to taste until fruit is cooked but still retains form and texture. Cranberries will pop until cooked through. Allow to cool and if not using right away, store, chilled, in a covered container. Can be frozen, top covered with plastic wrap inside container. Allow to thaw naturally.

If a thicker consistency is wanted, say for a pastry stuffing, sprinkle, do not spoon, about 1 tsp. cornstarch over the mixture as the 2^nd. Tbs. of water is added. Keep constant stirring to desired thickness.

*Flavorings: Juice, tea, flavored water, soft drinks can be substituted for the water… Spices and herbs can be added at the start of cooking.

Warm Pear-Cranberry Compote*: Serves 4 From-Recipes 1-2-3 Menu Cookbook by Rozanne Gold
3/4 cup sugar
2 large, firm Comice pears
2 cups cranberries
2 cups water
Peel pears , cut into 4 segments, remove seeds. Bring sugar and water to a boil, add pears and cranberries. Lower heat and simmer 15-20 min until pears are just tender and berries have popped. Remove fruit to a serving dish and set aside. Continue to cook syrup until reduced to about ¼ cup and has consistency of honey. Pour syrup over fruit. Reheat briefly in microwave if desired, and serve in individual portions or over waffles or French Toast.

JAM-This is a new easy method to make jam written up in the May-June 2024 Cook’s Illustrated
Basic Recipe and Explanation of Ingredients: Yield 2 cups-For freshness, store In 1 cup jars
1 lb. prepared fruit-washed, hulled, stemmed, cored, cut into pieces, but not peeled. The peel adds color, flavor and contains pectin.
1 cup sugar-the sugar not only sweetens, it helps thicken by trapping the water in the fruit in the mixture, allowing the pectin molecules to bond. This gives jam its gelled consistency and spreadability.
3 Tbs. lemon juice-the acidity in the lemon juice not only extends shelf life and perks flavor but it also raises the PH level of the mixture to the ideal level for pectin to gel.
Directions
Place a butter plate in the freezer. Put the fruit into a deep pot and mash with a potato masher. Over medium heat, add the sugar and lemon juice and bring to a boil, stirring often. Once sugar is dissolved, continue to boil, stirring constantly until mixture reaches 217-220 degrees. Remove pot from the heat and plate from the freezer. Put a tablespoon of the jam on the plate, wait 2 min. and run a finger trough the jam. If it leaves a clean trail on the plate the jam is ready. If not return the mixture to the heat for 2-3 min. and try again.

Meanwhile prepare jars : warm them by filing with hot water. I do this by fllling them with water and microwaving them for 2-3 min. Empty te jars but don’t dry insides. Using a ladel, fill with the jam, and allow to cool to room temp. When cool, screw on lids and refrigerate 24 hr. before serving to let gel set. Stores, chilled, for 2-3 months.

Flavorings: see Compotes above, but be careful of adding fluids. They can dilute the jam.

NOTE: Reduce the temperature 2 degrees for every 1,000 feet above sea level. For an accurate reading, whisk the jam and move the thermometer back and forth a few times*Cranberries, only available fresh in November, are wonderful accents to foods all year. They freeze well in their bags, as bought.

Aug 8

AUGUST IS STONE FRUIT TIME

My summer’s blogs wouldn’t be complete without discussing those delicious, succulent stone fruits, peaches, apricots and plums. Not only are they favorites for flavor, but in an age when most fresh produce is available all year, or found in the frozen section, stone fruits are found in markets fresh for just a few weeks and only peaches are frozen. (If you want to learn to freeze them, and other summer items, at home see posts for Feb. 2, 2012, Sept. 22, 2016, Sept.3, 2020 and Sept. 10, 2020) This year, I decided to review past posts and reprint a few recipes I found memorable for ease of prep, taste and presentation.

There are lots more easy, fun delicious recipes on my blog, in too many posts to back-link here. To find them go to Archives, roll the Home Page panorama or use the drop-down menu in the right margin of any blog page and pick August and September of each year.

Stone fruits combine well, not only with other ingredients, but with each other. If there isn’t enough of one type for a recipe, another can often be used to fill the quota. They’re generally interchangeable in recipes especially peaches and nectarines, which are really an antique Chinese variety of peach. Only peaches, of all the stone fruits, have to be skinned before cooking. That’s done as with tomatoes, by dipping in boiling water and peeling off the skin, but don’t remove the skin if grilling, roasting or broiling them, unless they’re to be sliced. Though the end-of-season fruits may be of lesser quality to eat raw, they cook as well, perhaps even better than the lush ones in their prime. Probably it’s due to the fact that they have less water content and the meat is more compact, but heating brings out a ton of flavor.

APRICOTS

In the U.S., apricots are the least visible members of the stone fruit group. Resembling small peaches with a slightly more acidic taste and less juice, apricots are the perfect on-the-go snack, able to be consumed in four bites, leaving no drippy mess.

Native to China, related to plums, apricots date back to 3000 B.C. By the first century A.D. they were established in Armenia, leading to the misconception by Europeans who discovered them there in the 15^thcentury, they were from that region. Smaller and hardier than other stone fruit trees, apricots got an early start in the New World. However, though they can stand extreme cold, they won’t produce in a climate where temperature fluctuates, which is why they grow well in Turkey. They preserve so well that in the U.S we focus on the processed fruit jam, nectar, canned, dried and tend to overlook the fresh.

In 2018, I was determined to find uses for fresh apricots and, being summer, I wanted recipes which didn’t take hours in a hot kitchen. Quick, fresh and easy was my goal. I hope I succeeded. Below is a sampling from that blog and if you want more consult the article. (Aug.9, 2018)

Quick Apricot Ice Cream: Yield about 1 gallon
4lb. apricots-stoned and pureed
¼ cup sugar
Pinch salt
Drop almond, vanilla or rum extract-optional
½ gallon vanilla ice cream
Mix the extract, salt and sugar with the pulp and let stand to dissolve . Mix the pulp in with the softened ice cream-partially, leaving a ripple effect is attractive-or fully incorporate the two. Place in a covered container and freeze until firm-best overnight at least.

Puff Pastry Tart: Serves 6-8– A Martha Stewart Recipe
1 cup shelled toasted pistachios + 1 Tbs.
½ cup sugar
1 stick butter pulse
1 large egg
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Pinch salt
Flour for dusting
1 lb. box puff pastry-thawed
1 ¼ lb. apricots cut in ¼ inch slices
1 egg yolk
1 Tbs. heavy cream
2 Tbs. raw sugar-granulated O.K.
¼ cup apricot jam
Pulse the 1 cup nuts, sugar and butter into a paste . Add next 3 ingredients and pulse to combine. Set aside.
On a lightly floured surface, press edges of both pastry sheets together to form one large sheet. Roll out to a 9-by-17-inch rectangle; transfer to a baking sheet. Spread reserved pistachio mixture over dough, leaving a 3/4-inch border. Position rectangle so that a short end is nearest you. Arrange apricots on top in 4 vertical rows, alternating direction in which apricots face from row to row. Fold in edges of dough; use your index finger to make a scalloped border. Refrigerate until cold, about 30 minutes. . Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Whisk together yolk and cream; brush egg wash over edges of tart shell. Chop remaining tablespoon nuts; sprinkle nuts and turbinado sugar over apricots. Bake, rotating sheet halfway through, until crust is deep golden brown and fruit is juicy, about 35 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack. . Meanwhile, heat jam with 1 ½ tablespoons water in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring, until thinned, about 2 minutes. Pass through a fine sieve into a small bowl. Brush glaze over fruit.

PLUMS

Plums may be one of the earliest domesticated fruits. The main cultivars, or named species of a plant still cultivated today, have been found around the remains of Neolithic settlements. Unlike other stone fruits, plums seem to have originated in two strains and in two places; one comes from the mountains of Eastern Europe, the other from Asia. Plums are the most widely grown of the stone fruits, and exist in the largest number of verities, including Plouts, which like nectarines are sold as a separate fruit. Interestingly, the major cause of the many verities of plums is due to geographic location, climate and soil, rather than genetic engineering.

Like apricots, plums are most often eaten out-of-hand, dried as prunes, preserved in jams or canned, rather than used as a recipe ingredient and their texture makes them unsuitable for freezing. However, they are excellent additions to fruit cocktails and salads. For more great plum recipes see Aug. 25, 2015

Plum Rustica, or Galette: Serves 6-8- from my book Dinners with Joy
Crust if making: mix
1 ½ cups flour, optionally substitute whole wheat pastry flour for half the regular.
¼ cup sugar
1/3 cup shortening
3 to 4 Tbs. ICE water to form dough
1/3cup chopped toasted almonds or walnuts-optional
Combine sugar and flour. Cut butter into flour mix until texture is like gravel. Add water and form a dough ball. Chill 20 min. then roll to a 12 inch round. Transfer to a parchment or foil covered cookie sheet, or a pizza pan for baking. Optionally, sprinkle 1/3 cup chopped, toasted nuts over the bottom for plums, a sprinkle of cinnamon works for the other fruits.
Depending on size, fill the center with a 1 lb. to 1 ½ lb. fruit, leaving a 2 to 3 inch margin. (Apples pears and peaches should be peeled and sliced. Plums and apricots can be halved and stoned.)
Dot fruit with ½ Tbs. butter. Sprinkle with 1 Tbs. cornstarch, 1 Tbs. sugar and ½ tsp. lemon juice.
Carefully fold edges of pastry up around filling, pleating as you go. The edges can be brushed with cream or egg white and sprinkled with sugar as decoration. Bake at 400 degrees for 30 min. Cool on sheet; preferably on a wire rack. This can be moved to a plate for serving, but as the name implies, it’s a “rustic” or casual pastry, and I like to bake it and serve it in a pizza pan.
NOTE: While still hot, combine ½ cup melted red currant jelly and 1 Tbs. Grand Mariner and pour over the top.

Plum Cake: Serves 8-From Landoll’s Creative Cooking Dessert
1 ½ cups stoned plum halves
¼ cup shortening
¾ cup sugar
2 eggs
½ cup flour
½ cup whole wheat flour
1 tsp. baking powder
salt
¼ cup milk
1tsp.vanilla
Garnish
½ cup chopped pecans
¼ cup brown sugar
½ tsp. cinnamon

Grease and flour a 9 inch square baking pan. Cream butter and sugar, add eggs beating until smooth. Mix flours, salt and baking powder; add alternately with milk to egg mix, beating well. Stir in vanilla. Pour into pan and arrange fruit over top. Combine garnish ingredients and scatter over the fruit. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven 30 min. Cool in pan.

PEACHES

Peaches are stars of the season. Like apricots, their origin can be traced back about 3000 years to China. Nectarines are a smooth-skinned peach, and can be substituted for peaches in most recipes. Although peaches have many popular recipes, I wanted to present a different take on them in my post for Aug. 16, 2018. Those 8 recipes are geared to fit three requirements. First, they are easy to prepare in the heat of August needing little or no cooking. Second, they fit the current preference for casual, even rustic presentations. Third, they had to be ‘off the beaten track.’ I didn’t want a repetition of the usual shortcakes, pies and mousse.

The familiar recipes below are new twists on the old standards being made with raw fruit. There are a couple of tips about peaches which will make working with them simpler. Peeling them is a breeze. Just dip them in boiling water for about 10-15 sec., run them under cold water and the skin peels off like a tomato. If they could stand a bit of softening, leave them in the water a minute or two.

I love peaches grilled. They caramelize and get a depth of flavor that really carries a dish. There are many recipes featuring roasted peaches but to simply perk their flavor to use in another dish, place the halves, cut side up, in a baking dish with a bit of water in the bottom and bake in a 425 deg. oven until desired doneness or for 20 min. for fully roasted. They substitute in most recipes and peeling is optional.

PEACHES

Broiled, Grilled or Roasted Peaches or Nectarines
Peaches and nectarines are the favored stone fruits to withstand intense heat without the support of pastry or a pan. Simply halve and pit them, place them on a baking sheet in the oven or directly on the grill and cook them until the juices bubble and the cut edges begin to char. Grilling time depends on the size of the fruit and degree of heat. Roasting is done at 400 deg. for 20 min.
They can be served directly with meat but as a dessert I like to let them marinate a few minutes in a complimentary liqueur or liquor, Peach Brandy, Triple Sec, spiced rum etc., until they form a bit of sauce and then serve them with the sauce and meringues, ice cream or whipped cream.

Serving Suggestions:
1) Top with a scoop of ice cream-try peach. Make a hole in the center with the handle of a wooden spoon and fill cavity with peach liqueur.
2) Top with berries and whipped cream
3) Top with honey or maple syrup
4) Peach Melba-top with vanilla ice cream, place a meringue on either side and spoon over raspberry sauce.

Fresh Peach Meringue Pie: Serves 6-8
4-5 cups peeled, sliced peaches
Pastry for a 1 crust 9 inch pie
2 Tbs. peach or all fruit jam
2 egg whites
½ cup sugar
Few drops vinegar
Line pie plate and bake crust until golden. Cool and spread jam over the bottom, then fill with the peaches. Beat the whites until peaks form, add a few drops of vinegar, beat in and continue beating while adding sugar until stiff peaks form. Spread meringue over the top of the pie, being sure to cover right up to the crust edging. Decoratively swirl the top with a spoon and run the pie under a hot broiler until golden on top, about 2-3 min. Store several hours at room temperature, chill leftovers.

ALL FRUITS

The following 4 recipes are crowd pleasers, easy to make and open to virtually any fruit, but especially god with stone fruits. So make it easy on yourself and score a hit with dessert.

Fruit Crisp: Serves 6
9 ripe peach sized fruits sliced, peaches if using peeled
½ cup softened butter
1 cup flour
1 cup sugar
½ tsp. cinnamon
Place fruit in a greased 9 inch baking pan. Sift last 4 ingredients and work in butter until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Sprinkle over the peaches and bake in a preheated 375 deg. oven 45-50 min. Serve warm or room temp with ice cream or a whipped topping

Angel Nest: Serves 4
Add 1 Tbs. flour and 1 Tbs. cornstarch to just 3 egg whites per cup of sugar. Shape them on an 8 inch round template, using the back of a fork to raise the sides into nests. Bake at 250 degrees for 60 min. Leave in oven for 30 min. Cool on a wire rack. Store in a dry place until ready to use, up to a week. Fill centers with fresh fruit and serve with whipped cream, or topping, on the side. I would imagine these can be made in individual portions, and would be most attractive. Judging by the timing to cook basic meringues, I don’t think there would be much adjustment to the directions either. Something you might want to try.

Fruit Pizza: Serves 8-10
Make dough as instructed above, increasing sugar to ½ cup and shortening to 2/3 cup.
If buying; purchase a roll of sugar cookie dough, not pie dough. Roll dough to fit a pizza pan, prick several times with a fork and bake as for cookies, 350 degrees for 10 to 12 min. until lightly browned, or as directions on package state.
Cool completely in pan.
Decoratively arrange raw fruit over the crust. The amount you will need depends on the chosen fruit, roughly about 1 ½ lbs. For July 4th use a combination of strawberries and blueberries. Top with a glaze made from a clear jelly, apple or current, melted with 1 Tbs. water per ¼ cup jelly. For a thicker glaze dissolve ¼ tsp. cornstarch in 1 Tbs. water per ½ cup jelly, which is the amount I use for one of these. Boil until clear and spoon over the fruit. Chill until completely set. Serve in wedges and optionally pass whipped cream, or ice cream.

Wonton Fruit Cups: Serves 12
24 wonton wrappers
2 Tbs. melted butter
1/3 cup fruit preserves—flavor complimentary to fruit filling
1 cup lemon yogurt or instant pudding-pie filling, flavor optional
1 ½ cups diced fruit
Line a 12 cup or (2) 6 cup muffin pans with a wonton wrapper. Brush with ½ the butter. Place a second wrapper diagonally across the first and brush with remaining butter. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven 10 min. or until golden. Remove and cool. Spread 1 tsp. fruit preserves in each cup. Fold yogurt or pudding with 1 cup fruit and spoon into cups. Garnish with remaining fruit.

Fruit Crisp: Serves 6-8
4-5 cups sliced peaches or nectarines, halved apricots, quartered plums
½ cup melted butter
¾-1 ¼ cups white or light brown sugar-depending on sweetness of fruit
¾ cup flour
¼ tsp. salt
1 tsp. cinnamon or ½ tsp. nutmeg or allspice—depending on choice of fruit
Few drops lemon juice
Place the fruit in an ovenproof bowl or pan the size of a 9 inch pie plate and sprinkle with lemon juice. Stir all the other ingredients into the butter and scatter over the fruit. Bake in a preheated 400deg.oven about 30-40 min. until fruit is done. Cool on a rack and serve spooned into bowls topped with ice cream or whipped topping.

Jul 11

9 EASY DIY ICY DESSERTS FOR SUMMER

Last week I talked about how simple it is to make an Ice Cream Soda but there are other cooling treats which are just as easy. In this time of higher food costs, when ice cream novelty prices rival steak, it’s convenient and cost efficient to have some DIYs on hand, especially if you have kids.

Some of these recipes are ‘older’ in the sense that they’re classics, but they can showcase the seasonal fruits and fit this function. They’re easy to make but do need time. The best thing about these icy treats is that they can be prepared, not just ’ahead’ but waaaay ahead, a couple of weeks in fact, and popped out of the freezer at will.

A few years ago home ice-cream makers were hot items. I confess I bought one and have made a few concoctions, banana, pineapple-ginger and blueberry, which were pretty good, but I had one major problem. They require a lot of free freezer space and I don’t have that but I do like having something icy- sweet on hand. The answer is in making ice-cream and its alternatives, granita, sherbet, sorbet, semifreddo and gelato, the old-fashioned way. I’ve been doing it, and it works out well, in fact I’ve even made some on a stick for easy eating especially for children. (There’s a short-cut recipe below for that!)

I give descriptions of each of these types of dessert below, with recipe examples. Naturally, it’s understood that the flavors can be changed at will. The basic formulas define the differences between them and outline the choice options. Here’s a tip though, most are healthier than ice-cream. However, if you’re still interested in the ‘real thing’ I’m including a recipe for ice-cream made the original way—without a machine.

I do want to warn that many current magazines and recipe sources include the use of raw eggs, especially the whites. For anyone concerned over Salmonella, I recommend substituting Wilton Meringue Powder in any recipe that calls for directly adding raw beaten egg whites. It’s available at all bakery supply stores and craft stores that sell baking equipment such as A.C.Moore. A bit of evaporated milk can also add a creamy texture. Another helpful note is to follow the ingredient quantities exactly and be sparing with any alcohol based flavorings. Both excess sugar and alcohol deter freezing and that’s a disaster with these dishes.

The recipes are divided into two groups of three. The first is water based and the second dairy. Granita and semifreddo can’t be made in machines; the others can, following the individual manufacturer’s directions. You will notice that several of the recipes like sherbet and sorbet seem similar. The main distinction is in the product’s purpose. Sorbet, made from fruit juice or juiced fruit, is lighter and often used as a ‘palate cleanser’ between courses during a multi course meal, or a light finish to a heavy or rich one. Sherbet, based on pureed fruit, is a dessert. (There’s a shortcut included in the recipe below.) Gelato is a bit less caloric and cholesterol laden than ice-cream (or Italian vrs. French.)

RECIPES

Basic Granita: Serves 4
1 ½ cups water
½ cup sugar
½ cup juice or other flavoring liquid- or extract squeezed from pureed fruit*
¼ cup lemon or lime juice
Pinch salt – optional
Additional flavorings-spices, herbs and/or garnishes—optional
Over low heat dissolve sugar in water, remove from heat and add flavoring liquid and juice, cool and put into a metal 9 X 13 inch pan. Freeze, scraping with a fork to break up every 20-30 min., for 2-3 hours until resembles fluffy shaved ice. Keep in a covered container in the freezer for about 1 week. Scrape to fluff before serving. (The ice chips don’t clump during storage.)
*I often make this with cranberry juice, but other juices and liquids like coffee, green tea(matcha) even flat soda pop and pureed, strained fruits can be used as well. For example, it can be made with meat from ½ a watermelon, blended and squeezed through a sieve. Small amounts of liquor can also be added but beware the alcohol prevents freezing so use only enough to give taste. With some mixtures a dash of pepper is nice. The flavoring options are endless.

My Plum Sherbet: Serves 4-5
(2) 15 oz. cans of plums, with juice (or other fruit) Pits removed
1/8 tsp. powdered ginger-or spice suitable for selected fruit
Puree the fruit and juice until completely smooth. Freeze in metal or plastic container for several hours until frozen through. Puree again. This aeriates the mixture and smooths the texture. Freeze until firm,
usually overnight. Store in plastic, with a piece of plastic wrap over the top.

Orange-Campari Sorbet: Serves 4-6*
Juice of 3-4 large oranges strained, to make ½ cup*
½ cup superfine or bar sugar-or slightly more to taste
21/2 cups water
3 Tbs. Campari
2 large egg whites
Mint leaves to garnish
If using fresh oranges, remove peel, without white pith, from 3 of them. Dissolve sugar in water over low heat then boil for 2 min. without stirring, wiping down pan sides with a wet brush. Pour mixture into a non-metallic shallow, freezer safe container with a cover and add orange peel to steep while mixture cools. When cool add strained orange juice and Campari; cover and chill for at least 30 min. Remove zest and freeze for 1 hour. Transfer mixture to a bowl and beat to break-up ice crystals. Return to freezer container and freeze for 30 min. Repeat twice more. Beat egg whites to stiff peaks and beat into juice mixture and freeze for 30 min. Beat once more. Store covered for 2 months. Serve by the scoop.
*Strained commercial juice can be used and flavors are optional—omitting the Campari.

Melon Sherbet: Serves 6-8
1 medium melon-cantaloupe or casaba
Juice of ½ lemon
4 egg whites
6 oz., sugar-super-fine or ’bar’ sugar is best
¼ -1/2 cup cherries or berries for garnish-optional
Fresh mint leaves for garnish-optional
Cut the melon in half, in a zigzag pattern if to be used it for serving. Remove seeds and cube meat. Blend with the lemon juice until smooth. Pour into a 1 ½ quart container and freeze until beginning to set. Beat the egg whites until stiff and gradually add the sugar. Gently whisk or beat the melon mixture until broken up and light. Fold in the egg whites and return to the freezer and freeze until firmly set. Serve by the scoopful, in the melon shell or dishes. Garnish with fruit and/or mint. Keeps frozen about 1 month.
NOTE: Choose overripe fruit to make sherbet, or blanch it if not quite ripe. It freezes smoother.
A short cut to making sherbet is to freeze a can of fruit in syrup. Puree the frozen contents and combine with eggs and optional ingredients, adjusting quantities to fit the basic recipe. Examples: Peaches with almond extract or Litchi with ginger.

Semifreddo: Serves 6-8
3 eggs
2 egg yolks
3/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon flavor extract—almond, vanilla etc. –optional but advised
2 egg whites*–also optional recipe
2 cups whipping cream – well chilled
Line a 5 x 9inch loaf pan or 3 quart capacity dish with plastic wrap leaving generous overhangs on long sides.
Place the eggs, egg yolks, flavor extract and ½ the sugar if making meringues, all if not, in a heat proof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water, (a double boiler or Bain Marie). Using a hand held mixer, beat the mixture for 6-8 minutes until custard is pale and thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from heat and beat for an additional 4-6 minutes until cool. In a separate bowl, beat the whipping cream until thick. Gently fold into the egg mixture until smooth. *If adding meringue- beat egg whites in a clean Bain Marie or double boiler over simmering water until soft peaks form, add sugar and continue beating until billowy and glossy. Fold into the eggs and cream. Freeze until firm, at least 6 hours but better overnight, unmold and slice to serve-DO NOT SCOOP OR SPOON.
Note: Semifreddo is intended to contain a mixture of flavors. Chopped fruit, ground nuts or fruit purees are usually incorporated into the whole or just one layer (see puree directions below) to give a color and flavor contrast. 4 oz. of finely chopped chocolate can be added to the custard while hot to make a chocolate semifreddo or just 2 oz. to half the custard to make just one layer. This means the whipped cream and meringue will have to be added in half portions as well.

Berry Puree:
2 cups blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
To make the puree, combine the berries and powdered sugar in a food processor and pulse until smooth. Taste and adjust sugar if necessary. Strain through a mesh strainer.
To make swirls, spoon the blueberry puree over the top and use a spatula to gently fold it into the cream. Otherwise gently fold it into half the finished mixture and pour it into the mold first to make a bottom layer.

Gelato: Serves 4*
6 large eggs
¾ cup superfine or bar
¼ cups milk
1/3 cup heavy cream
1tsp.flavoring-vanilla, butterscotch, mint etc. –optional
2 oz. finely chopped dark chocolate, butterscotch, nuts, candied fruit or cookie crumbs
Beat the eggs and sugar in the top of a double boiler or Bain Marie, until creamy. Stirring, heat the milk and cream to a simmer and add it in a stream to the egg mix while whisking. Heat the mixture in the double boiler over medium heat, stirring constantly until it coats the back of a spoon or the spoon pulled across it leaves a mark on the surface.in. Remove from the heat and add flavoring. Allow to cool at least 1 ½ hr. then chill for 30 min. Strain to remove any lumps, transfer to a freezer container and freeze for 2 hrs. until frozen 1 inch from the sides. Transfer to a bowl and beat until smooth. Stir in chocolate etc., return to the freezer container, smooth the top and lay a piece of plastic wrap directly on top. Cover and freeze for up to 3 months.

Vanilla Ice Cream: Serves 4-6 *
2 ½ cups heavy cream
1 vanilla bean
1 pared zest of 1 lemon
4 eggs beaten
2 egg yolks
6oz. superfine or bar sugar
Whisking, bring the cream to a simmer, add the eggs and lemon zest. Lower the heat and cook 8-10 min. still whisking until thickened. Stir in the sugar remove from the heat, let cool and strain. Open the vanilla bean and scrape the seeds into the egg mixture. Pour the mixture into a shallow freezer container allow to just freeze 1-2 hrs. Remove to a bowl, beat and return to the freezer container, cover and freeze overnight or for up to 3 days.
*Although these recipes are basic to the dish, the particular flavoring combinations are from the Summer Foods and Desserts volumes in the Practical Cooking series of book

Quick Banana Pops: Serves 8 in plastic pop sickle molds, 4 in Dixie cups used as molds
1 pt. vanilla ice cream
1 large VERY ripe banana
Wooden sticks if using Dixie cups
While the ice cream softens, mash the banana in a bowl, with a fork until no lumps remain. Combine the two well and fill the molds. Insert the ‘sticks’ and freeze until firm. Rub with a warm cloth to unmold, if necessary. This can also be made in a single mold for table service.*
*If considering substituting other fruits, use them in proportion bearing in mind that bananas have a low pulp/juice ratio and changing that will affect the ability to freeze. Fruits should be very ripe and pureed, then strained if necessary. The addition of sugar depends on the fruit, some powdered may be needed, but remember sugar inhibits freezing, so be sparing.
This tip can also be used to flavor the other dairy based desserts here. Delete the given flavoring agents and replace with the preferred ones. You can use the Berry Puree above as a guide for quantity and swirl (sugar may be needed) or mix (possibly no sugar) into the dessert base ingredients. The best move is to research other recipes for quantities as to specific flavoring agents. Basically any recipe for machine made ice cream type desserts can be processed by hand following the guidelines given here.
Have fun, experiment, be independent and create your flavor for the holiday. For example, the dessert pictured with this post is Espresso Granita garnished with Lemon Thyme. It’s the perfect end to an outdoor dinner, and ’kills two birds with one stone’ because hot coffee isn’t missed.

The above recipes can be frozen in pop sickle molds or other individual serving container.

Jul 4

ICE CREAM SODAS-PERFECT FOR JULY 4th

This is a reprint of one of my most popular posts and a favorite of mine because it’s a perfect fit for this specific time. July 4^th is a traditional holiday, without set traditions—except for fireworks. Their exuberance and spontaneity are iconic of this holiday’s mood. Those adjectives describe ice cream sodas too. With only 4 ingredients, hand-made just before serving, the variety and combinations of flavors, as well as sodas’ cooling effect make them a fitting treat for Independence Day.

I don’t remember them in their hay day, when Soda Jerks made coke by the glass from syrup and seltzer, but I do remember the iconic Ice Cream Soda. Nowadays, the only way we sip ice cream through a straw is with milk shakes. Sodas are two-textured, to be sipped and spooned, enjoyed at leisure and ultimately satisfying.

Sadly, sodas seem to have disappeared from popularity along with the fountains. The Ice Cream Soda was a special treat, built by hand, opulent, gleaming and overflowing the glass, served with an ice tea spoon and a straw, it took time to eat. It offered contrasts in taste and texture down to the last drop, and left you feeling satisfied, not just filled.

It always seemed the ideal dish for the Fourth of July, as appropriate to the holiday as pumpkin pie to Thanksgiving. My association is also linked to childhood memories. My Aunt and Cousin always arrived July 1^st for the summer and every Friday night, they, my Grandmother, my Mother and I went to the movies and afterward to a popular ice cream parlor for sodas. Nothing tasted so good as the soda on that first Friday, which was always within a few days of the 4^th.

I can still remember the choices. My cousin and I stood by our usuals, chocolate for me, strawberry for her, but the women varied their orders regularly. Grandmother liked all vanilla, or asked for peach ice cream or one scoop peach and one strawberry. My Aunt picked a chocolate soda with a ripple ice cream, fudge, caramel or peanut, because she liked the taste tweaks as she ate. My Mother chose a chocolate soda with coffee, pistachio or mint chip ice cream, creating different flavors.

Every so often, at this time of year, I used wax nostalgic and make sodas for my kids and their friends, but mine didn’t generously overflow. I wasn’t into cleaning dippy messes and something else was missing. The kids loved them and were always happy I made them, but to children used to soft-serve cones and take-out shakes everywhere, to whom an ‘ice cream fix’ was opening the freezer door, my ‘special’ magic wasn’t there.

I really would like to see the Ice Cream Soda make a comeback. Anyone can make one. All they need is an ice cream scoop and the flavor options are limitless. If my relatives could consider 11 combinations normal in those conservative food years, when Howard Johnson’s 28 flavors was thought exotic, imagine what could be concocted today. Moreover, it’s easy to create new ones with home machines.

There are also many favors of syrups in the markets now. Additionally, we may not be the basic ’from scratch’ cooks our grandmothers were, but we are adept at accessorizing our dishes and that includes making syrups. I make coffee syrup frequently for Tiramisu. Simple syrup is equally easy and can be flavored with pureed fruit and/or extracts. Lemon curd is available and it’s always possible to turn to old standbys like maple syrup or butterscotch sauce to improvise.

Then there’s the huge variety of flavored seltzers in markets today, white grape, peach, raspberry, lime to name just a few. They can provide interesting contrasts in tastes as well. Using flavored soda isn’t a novel idea either. The famous ‘Brown Cow’ was chocolate syrup, vanilla ice cream and coke.

Which brings me to the ‘kissing cousin’ of the ice cream soda, the Float; simpler than the soda, it’s simply a soda pop, originally, I think, root beer, or other carbonated beverage even beer and ale, poured over a scoop of ice cream. Does anyone still remember root beer? Apparently, however, floats aren’t such dinosaurs as ice cream sodas. Guinness features one made with ale in its current recipe book.

So here’s an idea. July 4th is this week. Why not celebrate a truly American holiday by remembering a traditional American drink? You can even make a party of it, kinda like a sundae party, by offering different ice creams, a variety of seltzers and syrups, even some toppings, whipped cream, cherries, jimmies. Line up the options and let people make their own. It doesn’t have to be a large group, in fact smaller is better, but it is festive.

Just one tip; in choosing the ice cream for a soda, think twice about varieties with larger add-ins, like nuts and candy. They don’t fit in a straw, or worse, clog it, making eating difficult. I wouldn’t advise cookie cough either, not just for that reason, but the soda will partially dissolve it and, being heavy, it will sink, leaving a gummy mass in the bottom of the glass.

Happy Fourth of July all!

RECIPES

Basic Ice Cream Soda Recipe:

Single serving
20 oz. glass
3 Tbs. flavored syrup or + to taste
2 scoops of ice cream
Chilled club soda, seltzer water (Not sparkling mineral water) or other carbonated drink, cola, ginger ale or other pale soda pop.
Pour the syrup into the bottom of the glass; add about of 1 oz. soda and 1 scoop of ice cream. Stir gently around the sides of the ice cream lifting the syrup up around the scoop. Slowly add more soda to fill the glass ¾, mixing the contents gently as you pour. Add the other scoop of ice cream, and fill the glass with the soda water, creating bubbles.

Basic Ice cream Float:

Single serving
20 oz. glass
1 scoop ice cream
Carbonated beverage, including beer or ale.
Fill the glass about ½ full with the liquid, add the ice cream and then pour over the liquid to fill.

Simple Syrup:
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
Combine and heat, stirring, until sugar dissolves. If it seems thin, cook to evaporate water until desired consistency.

Brown Simple Syrup:
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup water
Follow above directions.

Coffee Syrup:
Method 1) Make either above syrup with strong coffee in place of water
Method 2) Add 1 Tbs. or to taste, instant coffee as you make it. I like Instant Espresso for flavor depth.

Vanilla Syrup:
While cooking simple syrup add from 2-3 tsp. or more vanilla to taste. This amount will also be determined by whether pure extract or imitation is used. The main thing is not to let it dilute the syrup recipe, so the length of cooking time will depend on the degree the fluid needs reducing to achieve the right consistency.

Fresh Fruit Syrups:

Examples of how fresh fruits can be used. Always store chilled. Traditionally these directions would have included straining, but I like the rustic appearance of a rougher texture.

Strawberry
Marinate sliced berries in sugar as for shortcake topping, then puree.

Peach
Method 1) about ½ cup peeled, sliced fruit and 1Tbs. simple syrup, or to consistency, pureed
Method 2) Roasted peach half(halves-depending on quantity wanted) pureed with simple syrup, if needed. Gives a more intense flavor

Blueberry
½ cup blueberries and 1+? Tbs. simple syrup microwaved at 1 min. intervals for 3 min. or until soft, then pureed.

Feel free to experiment—perhaps chopped apple, with cinnamon treated as blueberries or plums substituted for peaches. A few drops of liqueur or extract or a pinch of spice can add to the taste as well.

Posts from the ‘Desserts’ Category

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