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Posts from the ‘Desserts’ Category

Nov 1

WINTER SQUASH RECIPES

Winter squash is a menu favorite in the U.S. during autumn, with recipes for everything from soup through dessert. Most familiar squash varieties are native to the Americas with the exception of pumpkins, which originated in North Africa. Incidentally, squash is a fruit not a vegetable.

Interestingly, winter squash has remained generally regional to North America, while the yellow and green summer squash were introduced to Europe centuries ago, where they were integrated into several cuisines. The Italians were especially interested in cultivating the green summer squash, which they gave its conventional name’ Zucchini ’. Amusingly, when summer squash became hot topics on menus and in recipes in the latter half of the 20th century, many thought they were imports and that zucchini was an Italian vegetable. In fact, the family relationship between winter and summer squash isn’t often recognized. We tend to think of them as different seasonal foods.

The thing that surprises me is that every foreigner I’ve met, both here and abroad, who has visited the U.S. and tasted winter squash loved it. They knew of pumpkins, but as animal fodder, not table food. When I lived in Italy, I was often asked about the spice mix used in most squash dishes (which is really ‘Pumpkin Pie’) because it’s so far from their taste palette. I wondered then, why winter squash had remained so regional. Perhaps with the increasing availability of imported ingredients from other countries and the rise of ‘Fusion Cuisines’, winter squash will spread its wings.

There are many varieties of winter squash, Hubbard, turban, delicata, spaghetti, banana to name a few, in addition to the two mentioned below. One of the most convenient things about working with winter squash is that, like summer squash, the meat can be used interchangeably. The thickness of the rind determines suitability for dishes according to cooking method. Butternut, with its thin skin and smaller seed cavity is easier peeled and yields more meat for soups and casseroles. Acorn has a thicker rind and is preferred for roasting and stuffing.

Squash is full of beta-carotene. Choose the ones with the darkest rind, they have the highest levels. Those levels will increase over a month, if the squash is stored in a cool, dry place. So take advantage of the harvest season and try some of these recipes and remember a garnish of toasted, chopped nuts or seeds like sesame, pumpkin and sunflower is always welcome, as are herbs such as sage, cilantro, parsley or thyme.

Butternut Soup:

Serves 4 Adapted from Homemade Magazine
1 ½ lb. butternut squash-cut in half and seeded
2 cups chicken broth
1 cup half and half
3 Tbs. brown sugar
1 tsp. cinnamon
¼ tap. Nutmeg
Salt and pepper
¼ cup creamy peanut butter-optional
Cook squash, cut side down on a greased baking sheet at 350 deg. for 1 hr. Cool, scoop out pulp and puree until smooth. Mix in a pot, with next 5 ingredients and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until heated. Whisk peanut butter with 1 cup soup and blend into pot. Cook 5 min. more and serve warm.

Squash Risotto:

Serves 6
1 lb. butternut squash-peeled seeded in ½ inch cubes
1 cup medium-grain rice-brown suggested
½ onion –chopped
2 cloves garlic-mashed
1 tsp. dried sage
3 cups beef broth
¼ cup Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper
In a pot, sauté rice, garlic and onion in oil over medium-high heat for 2 min. Stir in broth and seasonings, bring to a boil, cover and simmer 15 min. Stir in squash, cook 5 min. stir in cheese and let rest, covered 5 min. Serve hot.

Butternut Ravioli:

Serves 4- From 500-2 Ingredient Recipes by Robert and Carol Hildebrand
1 small squash-about 1 lb.
½ tsp. nutmeg
2 Tbs. butter
Salt and pepper
(30) 3 inch wanton wrappers
Peel the squash, remove seeds and cut in 1 inch chunks, cover with water, cover and simmer until tender, about 20 min. Drain and place squash, butter and seasonings in a bowl and mash until smooth. Place 1 tsp. squash in the center of a wrapper, wet the edges and top with another wanton skin. Press on the edges to seal. When all are ready, bring a pot of salted water to the boil, slide in the raviolis, in batches if necessary, and cook until they float, about 3-5 min. Strain and keep warm until all are cooked. Don’t let them overlap or they will stick. Serve with melted butter over.
NOTE:

Follow these directions substituting (2) 10 oz. packages frozen chopped spinach, thawed and drained, for the squash. Add in 1 lightly beaten egg and the same seasonings as above. Serve alone or mix the two ravioli in a bowl with the melted butter.

Squash Crisp:

Serves 4 From Homemade Magazine
2 lb. butternut squash- peeled, seeded and in 1 inch cubes
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1 cup chopped onion
2 cups toasted bread cubes- stuffing mix is good
1 tsp. crushed dried rosemary
¼ cup chopped walnuts
Salt and pepper
Simmer the squash in water until tender, about 7 min., drain and toss in a 3 quart casserole dish with 1 Tbs. butter and salt and pepper to taste. Saute onion in remaining butter until tender, about 5 min. Add bread and rosemary and cook about 2 min. more tossing to coat bread with butter. Stir in walnuts and spoon over squash. Bake in a 400 deg. oven until bread is browned. Toss before serving.

Roasted Acorn Squash:

Serves 4
2 acorn squash-halved lengthwise and seeded
2 Tbs. butter cut in half
4 tsp.—or more to taste-sugar-brown or white
Salt and pepper
Prick squash meat several times with a fork and place ½ Tbs. butter in each hollow, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Put squash, skin side down, in a pan with about ½ inch water and bake at 350 deg. for 40 min. or until meat can easily be pierced with a knife tip. Add 1 tsp. sugar to each squash half and cook 10min. more.

Glazed Acorn Wedges:

Serves 4
2 acorn squash-quartered lengthwise and seeded
2 Tbs. butter
¼ cup grated onion
1/3 cup minced chipotle peppers in adobo sauce
¼ cup maple syrup
Salt
Cook squash in boiling water, partially covered for 10-15 min. until fork tender. Drain well on paper towels. Saute onion in butter 1 min. then add the rest of the ingredients and stir over heat about 1 min. until blended. Preheat oven to 400 deg. Arrange squash cut side up in a baking dish, spoon glaze into cavities and bake 15 min, basting once.
NOTE:

The squash can also be cut in 1>1 ½ inch rings, boiled for 8-10 min. and cooked, following the above directions, basting several times.

Fast Sweet Squash Side or Dessert:

Serves 4 –Recipe from Try-Foods Inc.
2 small acorn squash-halved lengthwise and seeded
1 cup applesauce
1 Tbs. maple syrup
¼ cup chopped walnuts or pecans
½ tsp. cinnamon
Place squash, cut side down, in a microwave safe dish, cover microwave on high 6-9min. until tender. Combine other ingredients in a bowl and spoon into squash cavities and microwave on high 3 min. until heated through. Serve hot.

Sour Cream Squash Pie:

From Food Tips and Cooking Tricks by David Joachim
(1) 9 inch pie crust-unbaked
1 lb.= 2cups squash puree-canned or frozen cooked and mashed is fine
1 cup sour cream
3/4cup light brown sugar
1 tsp. EACH cinnamon and ginger
¼ tsp. EACH salt and allspice
2 lightly beaten eggs
Whisk ingredients together and pour into pie shell. Bake at 350 deg. for 45 min. until lightly browned and center is just set. Cool before slicing and serve with sweetened sour cream as an option.

Sep 20

FREEZING LATE SUMMER PRODUCE-PART II-RECIPES

 

Last week’s post was about freezing some items from late summer’s abundant produce to enjoy in the coming months. This is not the same as ‘stocking up’ for winter. Most of us have neither the time or space for such a big task. This is about preserving some mementos to remind us of warm, sunny days during cold snowy ones. I find them especially comforting and refreshing as accents in, or accompaniments to other dishes in meals during the heart of winter following the beginning of the New Year.

 

I promised recipes to show them off in this posting, but I think it might be useful to repeat the basics of the advice I gave last week for prepping the foods before I start relating the recipes. I would recommend anyone about to freeze foods to read the entire posting for Sept. 13, 2018 as well. Please remember, I’m focused on late summer produce here, but the direction can apply to any similar items. For example, freezing snap pea pods and Italian beans is the same procedure as that for green beans.

 

“Still, not all of the produce so plentiful in the early fall is suitable for freezing. The best way for the home cook to tell is to check the glass cases in the supermarkets. If an item isn’t there, it doesn’t commercially flash-freeze well and won’t survive the slower domestic process. This particularly applies to things with high water content and soft flesh, tomatoes, plums and eggplant for example. The frozen water content forms crystals which attach to the other frozen elements in their make-up, thaw faster and drain the item of its juice and flavor, leaving a deflated, pulpy mass. These items are better canned, or for tomatoes, optionally, dehydrated, allowing the juices to remain or dry in the flesh, retaining flavor

 

There are a few tips to simulate the commercial flash-freezing process which help to assure a good result. The difference between treatment of the 4 items discussed here is noted at each step. Of course, they should be cleaned and prepped first; the beans trimmed, any strings removed, the corn husked and silk brushed off, the peaches washed, stems removed, zucchini ends trimmed.

 

  • For corn and peaches bring a pot of water to a boil, for beans use a skillet.
    1) Immerse the beans only until they turn bright green (blanched) about10-15 sec.
    2) Dip the peaches about 10-30 sec. until the skins will peel easily
    3) Cook the corn on cob about 4 min. until just beginning to tenderize.

  • Immediately run cold water over the produce to stop the cooking

  • Spread a counter top with paper towels
    1) Lay the beans and corn cobs out, separated, to dry
    2) Using a sharp knife, peel the skin off the peaches. Do not allow to dry. Start freezing prep.

  • Cover cookie sheets with waxed paper
    1) Spread the beans out separately on the cookie sheet and freeze
    2) Brace the bottom of each corn cob in the center of a tube pan. Using a sharp knife, slice off the kernels, letting them fall into the pan. Spread them evenly over the lined sheet and freeze.
    3) Slice the peaches, about 4 per half, directly onto the lined sheet, not overlapping, and freeze.

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Freeze the produce according to your freezer’s rate, usually between 40-60 min. The Sept.13th post includes directions for packaging and cooking as well.

 

RECIPES

GREEN BEANS

 

Ham and Beans au Gratin: Serves 4
1 lb. beans
8 slices Deli ham – custom cut 1/16 to 3/8 of an inch thick
½ cup grated sharp cheese
2 cups milk
4 Tbs. butter
4 Tbs. flour
¼ tsp. garlic powder
Salt& pepper
Paprika and dried parsley for garnish
1 envelope chicken bouillon granules –optional
Parboil the beans until crisp tender, about 8 min. Shock under cold water and drain well. Divide the beans into 8 piles of about 10 beans each, and wrap each bundle in a slice of ham. Place bundles in a greased dish, seam side down. Make a simple cream sauce by heating the butter in a saucepan until it foams, Add the flour and stir to a smooth paste. Quickly add the milk, return to medium heat and stir constantly until sauce becomes smooth and thick, about 3 min. Add seasonings; pour the sauce over the bean-ham bundles and top with the cheese and garnish. Bake at 350 deg. until bubbly and cheese melts and browns slightly, about 15 min. Serve hot at once. Tip: plate with a spatula, taking care to serve the bundles intact.

 

Green Beans with Soy Mushrooms: Serves 4-6
1 lb. whole green beans-cooked to tender and hot
4 oz. mushrooms-caps, caps with stems or sliced
½ tsp. butter-melted
Soy sauce to taste
Toss mushrooms in butter and bake in a 300 deg. oven until they release their juice. Add soy sauce and bake about 3 min. more. Serve over hot beans.

Chow Tao: Serves 4
1 ½ lb. whole green beans
½ lb. thinly sliced pork
1 Tbs. oil
1 tsp. chopped fresh ginger
Salt and pepper
Soy sauce
Heat a wok or sauté pan on medium, brown pork with ginger in oil until golden, add beans and soy sauce cook, 10 min. longer or until beans are tender Season with salt and pepper, drizzle optionally, with more soy. Let flavors blend 1-2 min. before serving..

 

CORN

 

Corn Salad: Serves 4
2 cups corn kernels-thawed and parboiled-see directions above
½ a jarred fire-roasted red pepper- in thin strips about ½ inch long
2 scallions-white and light green portions only, sliced thin
1/3 of a green bell pepper –finely diced
1/3 cup light vinaigrette
4 medium tomatoes seeds hollowed out or 4 Roma tomatoes, halved lengthwise and seeds removed.
Mix the vegetables, toss with the dressing, fill the tomatoes and chill before serving.

 

Bean Salad with Corn: Serves 2
(1) 15 oz. can pinto or pink kidney beans-drained and rinsed
5-7 grape tomatoes-halved OR 1 large jarred roasted red bell pepper julienned
½ cup corn kernels
Cider vinaigrette
Romaine or other green lettuce
Line plates with lettuce leaves. Toss beans with tomatoes or pepper strips and place on lettuce. Top with corn and drizzle with vinaigrette.

 

Arugula and Liver Salad with Corn: Serves 4-From French Bistro Cooking by John Varnom
2 Tbs. butter
4½ Tbs. walnut oil
2/3 cup corn
8 chicken livers
1 small head frisee lettuce or green leaf lettuce
1 small head of arugulia
4 ½ Tbs. balsamic vinaigrette
Arrange lettuces on the plates. Saute the livers in the butter and oil, over high heat, for 3 min. per side. Add corn and remove pan from the heat. Place 2 livers on each plate and deglaze the pan with the vinaigrette. Spoon the dressing and corn over the plated livers and serve warm.

 

PEACHES

 

Peach Salsa; Yield 3 cups
2 cups peaches
½ cup sliced grape tomatoes-or chopped tomato
½ green bell pepper-chopped
1 scallion-thinly sliced-white and green parts only
Generous dash garlic powder
Dash cayenne pepper
1 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
1 tsp. lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste
Mix all the ingredients in a bowl and allow flavors to meld for about 20 min. Store covered and chilled for 2 days. Serve with fish, poultry and rice.

 

Peach Syrup Topping –Filling: Yield 1 ½ cups-Excellent over waffles, pancakes or ice cream or toasted slices of pound or angel food cake
1cup peaches
1 Tbs. butter
1/3 cup apple juice
1tsp.lemon juice
1 tsp. corn starch
Pinch powdered ginger-optional
Sugar to taste-if needed-preferably brown
1 tsp. > 1 Tbs. Brandy, rum, Madera or Triple Sec-optional—extracts may be substituted
Mix the liquids and flavorings in a cup and dissolve the corn starch. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat and add the peaches, gently stirring and shaking until the color brightens 1-2 min. Add the liquid and continue stirring gently until the mixture thickens and clarifies-3 min. Store extra chilled and slightly reheat to use again.

 

Quick Dessert Cups: Serves 6
12 wonton wrappers
2 Tbs. butter
1 ½ cups sliced or diced peaches
½ cup whipped cream or flavored yogurt
2 Tbs. all fruit spread-optional, but keeps pastry from becoming soggy if cups are preparedahead.
6 cup muffin pan
Place a wrapper diagonally in each muffin cup. Brush with butter and lay another diagonally across the first, so the 4 corners stand up in points. Brush with butter and bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven for 10 min. until golden. Cool and remove from the pan; can be done ahead. Spread a teaspoon of the jam in the bottom of each wonton cup, and divide the filling among them. Top with a dab of yogurt or whipped cream.

 

Don’t forget the thawed peach slices can be used by themselves scattered over ice cream, meats, in salads, mixed with winter fruits in compotes and other ways, even over cereal to brighten a dreary winter morning.

 

MINT SAUCE and WATERMELON PICKLE

 

Mint Sauce:
Per 1 bunch mint as sold in a market
Strip the leaves, and put in a saucepan.  Cover with cider vinegar. If vinegar is very strong, dilute with water to taste. Simmer about 8 to 10 min. until leaves are limp. Add sweetener to taste.Sugar is usual, but substitutes can be used as well for special diets. Just be sure it’s dissolved. Allow to cool in the pan. Blend until the leaves resemble coarse grains. Bottle and store in a cool, dark place. Keeps indefinitely. Use with lamb, vegetables and in sauces.

 

Watermelon Pickle
1 Watermelon- Green rind peeled and meat removed. White rind cut in 1 inch cubes.
1 cup cider vinegar per pound
1 cup water per pound
1 ½ cup sugar per pound
3 inches stick cinnamon per pound
4 cloves per pound
1 Tbs. sliced ginger root per pound
Cover melon cubes with salted water and soak for 2 hrs. Drain and rinse well.  Boil in fresh water until half tender, about 10 min. Drain again and rinse in cool water. Weigh melon and measure the other ingredients into a pot accordingly and boil them for about ½ hr. until a syrup forms. Add drained melon rind and boil for another 10 min. or until rind is crisp-tender. Allow to cool and pack cubes with syrup, including spices, to cover, into glass jars with secure fitting lids. Store refrigerated.

 

Top of Form

 

ZUCCHINI

 

Zucchini Base; Yield 8 cups
5 lbs. zucchini –shredded*
1 onion -finely chopped
1 garlic clove- minced
2 Tbs. oil
Saute onion and garlic in oil until softened. Add zucchini and stir until soft. Cool drain most of the moisture by squeezing in a towel or pressing in a colander. Freeze in desired sized containers with firm lids.
* To shred, use a food processor or the large teeth of a hand grater, but avoid the seedy core.

 

USES: Add salt and pepper as desired to all the below
Chilled Zucchini Soup: 4 servings
1 chopped onion
1 minced garlic clove
2 Tbs. butter
2 tsp. curry powder
1 tsp. coriander
1/8 tsp. red pepper
3 ½ cups base
3 ½ cups chicken or vegetable broth
1cup plain yogurt
¼ cup chopped toasted walnuts
Saute the onion and garlic in the butter until soft. Add the base, seasonings and broth. Simmer 10 min. Add the yogurt and chill. Puree if desired and serve garnished with walnuts.

 

Hot Zucchini Soup: Serves 4
Follow the directions for the chilled soup omitting the coriander, reducing the curry powder to 1 tsp., changing the yogurt to light cream and optionally choosing beef broth. The addition of left-over meat is welcome as are cooked pasta, diced potatoes or rice.

 

Primavera Sauce: Serves 4
1lb. shaped pasta
Follow the directions for the soups, slicing the onion and substituting oil for the butter. Omit the seasonings and add 3 medium chopped tomatoes and 2 Tbs. chopped fresh basil with the base. Cook 2 min. and serve over cooked pasta garnished with ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese and pass extra cheese.

 

Stuffed Eggplant: Serves 4
2 eggplants -split lengthwise, seeds removed and most of the meat scooped out and diced
Follow the directions for the sauce, mix it with the diced eggplant and use it to stuff the eggplant shells. Top with the cheese and bake on a sheet in a preheated 350 deg. oven until tender, about 30 min. Serve at once.

 

 

 

Aug 9

FRESH APRICOTS-AN IDEAL SUMMER SNACK

I saw a display of fresh apricots in the supermarket this week and stopped. With shock, I realized that it had been some time since I’d seen apricots in the market, and then realized I’d failed to notice their absence. I think it’s because in the U.S., apricots are the least visible members of the stone fruit group.

I learned to love them fresh in Europe, where they’re prominent in any bowl of summer fruit. Resembling small peaches with a slightly more acidic taste and less juice, apricots are the perfect on-the-go snack, able to be consumed in four bites, leaving no drippy mess. In the U.S, even in recipes, we focus on the processed fruit jam, nectar, canned and overlook the fresh.

Native to China, related to plums, apricots date back to 3000 B.C. By the first century A.D. they were so established in Armenia that Europeans who discovered them there in the 15thcentury believed they were from that region and spread the misconception when they took the fruit home. Apricots got an early start in the New World, having been brought over by the colonists.

The trees are smaller than those of most stone fruits. The trunks only measure about 16 inches in circumference, but they are hardier. They can stand cold up to -20 deg. F. However, they don’t like temperature variations, any winter thaws or spring frosts and they won’t produce. Probably, it’s the even climate that has allowed Turkey to become the world’s major supplier of dried apricots.

As I stood in the market, looking at the fruit bin, I began to think of ways to use apricots and had another surprise. Aside from heating them with ham, I had never cooked the fresh fruit, just the dried and canned. The thought made me want to find recipes for fresh apricots but I had still another shock when I could find few of them, even in my oldest books or James Beard’s American Cookery, which is full of colonial recipes. Apparently, apricots preserve so well that the majority were ’put up’ for the winter months and the recipes served then.

I was determined to find uses for fresh apricots and, being summer, I wanted recipes which didn’t take hours in a hot kitchen. Quick, fresh and easy was my goal. I hope I’ve succeeded. Below is a sampling of my findings, which best seemed to fit what I was looking for. I’ll deal with the canned or dried fruits when the weather is cooler.

RECIPES

Stuffed: Fill apricot halves with whipped cottage cheese, topped with freshly ground pepper and cilantro.
Variations: Top with mint or toasted chopped pistachios
Mix in finely chopped raisins
Fill with an equal mix of cream cheese and whipped topping, garnish with mint or cinnamon

Fruit Salad:
Sliced fresh apricots
Fresh raspberries
Cubed honeydew melon-drizzled with lime juice
Flavorful greens such as spinach or baby greens
Balsamic vinaigrette
Chopped, toasted, salted pistachios
Feta cheese crumbles—optional
Toss the chilled fruits gently and place on bed of greens. Drizzle with vinaigrette and garnish with nut and cheese-if using.

Apricot Shortcake:
3 apricots per portion-sliced
Sugar
Whipped topping
Almond extract-optional
1 recipe buttermilk drop biscuits, spongecake shells or slices of pound or angel food cake
Sprinkle the fruit with sugar and a drop of almond extract if using. Let stand until glossy and moist. Chill. Build dessert as for any shortcake in layers starting with pastry, fruit and topping.

Quick Apricot Ice Cream:

Yield about 1 gallon
4lb. apricots-stoned and pureed
¼ cup sugar
Pinch salt
Drop almond, vanilla or rum extract-optional
½ gallon vanilla ice cream
Mix the extract, salt and sugar with the pulp and let stand to dissolve. Mix the pulp in with the softened ice cream-partially, leaving a ripple effect is attractive-or fully incorporate the two. Place in a covered container and freeze until firm-best overnight at least.

Puff Pastry Tart:

Serves 6-8– A Martha Stewart Recipe
1 cup shelled toasted pistachios + 1 Tbs.
½ cup sugar
1 stick butter pulse
1 large egg
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Pinch salt
Flour for dusting
1 lb. box puff pastry-thawed
1 ¼ lb. apricots cut in ¼ inch slices
1 egg yolk
1 Tbs. heavy cream
2 Tbs. raw sugar-granulated O.K.
¼ cup apricot jam
Pulse the 1 cup nuts, sugar and butter into a paste. Add next 3 ingredients and pulse to combine. Set aside.
On a lightly floured surface, press edges of both pastry sheets together to form one large sheet. Roll out to a 9-by-17-inch rectangle; transfer to a baking sheet. Spread reserved pistachio mixture over dough, leaving a 3/4-inch border. Position rectangle so that a short end is nearest you. Arrange apricots on top in 4 vertical rows, alternating direction in which apricots face from row to row. Fold in edges of dough; use your index finger to make a scalloped border. Refrigerate until cold, about 30 minutes. . Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Whisk together yolk and cream; brush egg wash over edges of tart shell. Chop remaining tablespoon nuts; sprinkle nuts and turbinado sugar over apricots. Bake, rotating sheet halfway through, until crust is deep golden brown and fruit is juicy, about 35 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack. . Meanwhile, heat jam with 1 ½ tablespoons water in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring, until thinned, about 2 minutes. Pass through a fine sieve into a small bowl. Brush glaze over fruit.

Apricot Galette:

serves 8-10
For Crust– (* Option –purchase a refrigerated pie crust)
1¼ cups flour
½ cup shortening – – this can be Crisco, butter or margarine
¼ cup sugar
¼ tsp. cinnamon
4 Tbs. ICE water
For Filling-
1 ½ lbs. apricots-halved or quartered (@6 cups)
½ cup sugar + 2 tsp.
2 Tbs. cornstarch
1 tsp. butter
1 egg white OR ¼ cup milk
*Option—To use a refrigerated pie crust, dust with powdered sugar and roll to 12” round. If rolling is not required, dust with 1 Tbs. powdered sugar and ¼ tsp. cinnamon, before adding fruit.
For crust—Place all the dry ingredients in a bowl and stir well. Using the blades of two knives, mix cut cubes of the shortening into the dry ingredients until clumps are the size of small peas, or use your fingers to blend the mix until it resembles gravel. Add ice water 3 Tbs. at first and then the 4th, if needed, turning constantly with your hands, until dough can form a ball. It should be as moist as modeling clay, but the less handling the flakier the crust. Chill wrapped in plastic, or simply put the bowl in the fridge while you do the rest. When ready, roll on a floured board to a 12” round, transfer to a parchment or foil covered cookie sheet.*
For Filling– Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Mix apricots, ¼ cup sugar and cornstarch in a bowl to coat well. Spoon the filling into the center of the crust, leaving a 2 ½’ margin. Dot top with the butter and fold the crust edges up over the filling, pleating them as you go to form a circle with an open center. Brush the crust with egg white or milk and sprinkle with extra 2 tsp. of sugar. Bake for 20 min. reduce heat to 375 deg. and bake 15-20 min. more or until browned and bubbly. Cool completely on the baking sheet on a wire rack. When sufficiently cool, use a spatula to slide the rustica onto a plate. Serve alone, or with ice cream, whipped cream, warm caramel sauce or cheese.
*An easy way to do this, is to cover the board with wax paper, liberally dusted with flour. Roll out the pastry, lay the parchment covered baking sheet over it, and flip the pastry, board and all over onto the sheet. Remove the wax paper and proceed with filling the pie.

Apricot Chicken:

Serves 8
8 thighs
1 packet onion soup mix
(1) 14 oz. can apricot nectar
1 lb. apricots-halved
Preheat oven to 350 deg. Place chicken in a 9×13 inch baking dish. Mix together soup mix and apricot nectar. Pour over chicken. Bake for 55 minutes. Sprinkle apricot halves over and around chicken and cook another 10 min.

Ham and Apricots:

Serves 4
(2) 10-12 oz. ham steaks
½ lb. apricots-halved or quartered
¾ cup cider or apple juice
Pinch EACH cinnamon and cloves
Snip the edges of the ham steaks so they don’t curl. Put the spices and cider in a skillet large enough to hold the ham and warm. Add the ham and heat through; add the fruit, and cover. Cook over low until fruit is soft, about 8 min. Serve hot.

  • 4. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Whisk together yolk and cream; brush egg wash over edges of tart shell. Chop remaining tablespoon nuts; sprinkle nuts and turbinado sugar over apricots. Bake, rotating sheet halfway through, until crust is deep golden brown and fruit is juicy, about 35 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack.
  • 5. Meanwhile, heat jam with 1 1/2 tablespoons water in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring, until thinned, about 2 minutes. Pass through a fine sieve into a small bowl. Brush glaze over fruit.

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Jul 26

EASY, ICY, DIY TREATS FOR HOT DAYS

July 2018 entered riding a heat wave which covered most of the U.S. and set records for intensity and duration. Hot weather is enervating. Unlike cold weather which invigorates and stimulates the appetite to renew energy levels, heat is an appetite suppressant. People lose interest in food, much less preparing it!
Living in a community where backyards have grills, I was really surprised that I never detected the aroma of cooking in the air during the July 4th holidays. My neighbor, an avid griller, told me he froze the meat he had intended to use and his family had chicken delivered, which they ate cold, indoors. That about sums up what’s wanted in food when the temperature is high–room temp or colder, ready and accessible, light and easy to eat.
What we do crave is frequent, icy refreshment that cools us down and perks us up a bit. That the spurt of pep is from a sugar rush doesn’t seem to matter as long as it works. However, it seems to me that anything we need so should have more nourishment than the empty simple carbs in syrup laden sno-cones and fruit-flavored plastic sleeve pops.
I began sifting through old posts for solutions. As I remembered I’d done several on cold summer desserts over the years. I found two recipes for easy-to-make icy treats that would be great refreshments for the rest of the summer, especially if we have any more heat waves; granita and my own easy fruit sherbet , which is really more of a frozen puree.
If you want additional ideas, consult the panorama at the top of the site’s home page or go to the ‘Select Month’ menu on any page of the blog and look through the articles for June, July and August for the past several years. There are plenty of recipes and I’m sure you’ll find what you want.

Basic Granita:

Serves 4
1 ½ cups water
½ cup sugar
½ cup juice or other flavoring liquid- or extract squeezed from pureed fruit*
¼ cup lemon or lime juice
Pinch salt – optional
Additional flavorings-spices, herbs and/or garnishes—optional
Over low heat dissolve sugar in water, remove from heat and add flavoring liquid and juice, cool and put into a metal 9 X 13 inch pan. Freeze, scraping with a fork to break up every 20-30 min., for 2-3 hours until resembles fluffy shaved ice. Store in a covered container in the freezer for 1 week. Scrape to fluff before serving. (The ice chips don’t clump during storage.)
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* Variations:
To save time, simply pour a clear juice or liquid straight from its container into the pan and freeze as directed.
I often make this with cranberry or pomegranate juice, but other juices and liquids like coffee, green (matcha) or Chai tea even flat soda pop and pureed, strained fruits can be used as well. For example, it can be made with meat from ½ a watermelon, blended and squeezed through a sieve. Small amounts of liquor can also be added but beware the alcohol prevents freezing so use only enough to give taste. With some mixtures a dash of pepper is nice. The flavoring options are endless and it doesn’t have to be sweet. Try making some with beef or chicken broth with an envelope of bouillon granules dissolved for extra taste. This is great served with a cold meal. Another choice is to heat cider with cinnamon sticks and cloves to taste, cool, and proceed as above.
Use apple juice, rather than water, to stretch quantities of most liquids.

My Easy Plum Sherbet:

Serves 4
(1) 30 oz. can of purple plums, pits removed, OR any other canned fruit
Pinch ginger-optional OR seasonings appropriate to the fruit used
Process the fruit to a puree, adding only enough syrup to get the proper texture. I use all of it with plums, but not with pears. (Save any extra syrup to flavor a granita.) Place the puree in a sealed container, freeze for 1 hr. and stir well. Repeat until entire container is of equal texture. If it seems too icy or clumpy, reprocess and repeat freezing procedure. Keep sealed in the freezer. Keeps as long as a commercial product.
NOTE:
This can be made into an elegant dessert by punching a hole in the center of a scoop with a wooden spoon handle and filling it with a complimentary flavored liqueur.
Can also be made with fresh, roasted peach halves, very ripe pears and melons. Be sure to strain melon or the excess water in the fruit may make the mixture too icy.

Jul 12

VANILLA – A FAVORITE SUMMER FLAVOR

There was an ice cream parlor in my hometown called ‘2 Cents Plain’. It was explained that ‘plain’ was soda jerk speech for ice cream with no toppings or add-ins and, later, when a variety of flavors were created, for a serving of vanilla. The idea of vanilla being ‘plain’ stuck and the word became a slang adjective for non-descript objects and people.

Basically, vanilla ice cream went from being a star, crowned with toppings, to a base for presenting ingredients and even a topping itself. It became the ‘mode’ in a la mode but despite the identity crisis, it remains the best selling flavor, especially in summer because it is such a marvelous host or companion, for all the luscious fruits, raw or cooked, in season then.

In reality, vanilla is an exotic spice with a complex taste, a marvelous, fragrant aroma and a distinct persona, second only to saffron in required labor intensity to produce. Its identity crisis stems from its adaptability. The spice enhances the flavor of other ingredients, rather than creating an interesting contrast of taste, which explains why the extract is used in so many recipes.

Pre-Columbian, vanilla was a favorite of the Aztecs which Cortez introduced to Europe. Like so many of the ‘New World’ plants, it is now grown in several places around the globe. I list them below with descriptions of the difference in flavor from each location.

Vanilla is actually the seed pod of a specific type of orchid. Originally pollenated by a species of bee, now extinct, this job must be delicately done by hand today. The pods, or beans as they are called because they resemble whole green beans, are weather sensitive. A bad season, or even a large storm in one locale, can drive the world price up from $20.00 to $500.00 per lb. quickly.

For many years, vanilla was generally, sold retail only as an extract, or more often found in the form of a less costly imitation of the extract, which was fine for some jobs. In fact, imitation vanilla is recommended for cookies and pastry. However, our current demands for ‘whole’ foods has brought dried vanilla beans to the supermarkets and, increasingly, recipes are calling for them, or the seeds they contain. (the little black specks in ice cream) Sold in plastic bags, the beans may seem expensive but for most jobs they are reusable and last for months. I’m including some uses and recipes to show you vanilla is anything but ‘plain’ and its products, especially whipped cream, ice cream and flavored sugar are great helpers to have on hand for serving all the wonderful fruits of summer.

First let’s look at the differences in vanilla crops globally:

JAVA: The least expensive, flavorable and smallest beans. If a ‘pure’ vanilla extract doesn’t state country of origin, it’s from java.
Madagascar: Also called ‘Bourbon’ vanilla. Beans have a robust aroma and a complex, sweet flavor that is almost like a wine. The best choice generally, but truly best for baking because it holds its flavor under heat.
Mexico: Fragrant with a sweetly floral aroma hinting of chocolate. Best choice for general use in both hot and cold dishes. Be sure extract from Mexico doesn’t contain Coumarin, which is banned by the FDA
Tahiti: The most fragrant and expensive was originally developed for the perfume industry. Best used in cold dishes. Its flavor doesn’t stand up to heat.

The beans are sold dried and resemble brown string beans. They should be kept, wrapped in plastic in an airtight jar in the refrigerator. They are wonderful for infusions for poaching liquids or custards and can be dried out, stored and reused as long as they have an aroma. Vanilla extract can be kept, tightly sealed, in a cool, dark place indefinitely. Choose their country of origin according to the intended use. Some recipes ask the seeds be scraped and used separately, but the keep the open pods for other uses.

RECIPES:

These are not the typical list of recipes using vanilla, cakes, puddings etc. Mostly they’re ways to use the beans to make ingredients for recipes.

One tip, a teaspoon of vanilla extract will enhance the flavor of any cake recipe, even chocolate.

Vanilla Sugar
Bury 2 vanilla beans in 1lb. sugar, granulated or confectioner’s. Leave for at least 1 week, stirring occasionally. Return beans to storage for future use. Use sugar as usual, for decorating or add to whipped cream for topping.

Vanilla Extract
Combine 750 milliliters cheap vodka, 6 split vanilla beans. ½-1cup vanilla extract in a large jar. Seal and place in a cool dark place for about 6 weeks. The beans can be removed and seeds scraped during this time for another use. Return the pods to the jar.
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Vanilla Vodka
Follow the above recipe, using better vodka and omitting the added extract. Allow to steep until desired flavor intensity is reached. Remove beans, dry, store and reuse.

Vanilla Topping:
Soak the beans in cream until flavor is achieved. For more intense flavor scrape the beans into the cream. Remove beans for another use, leave any seeds in. Whip, chill and serve.

Vanilla Brandy
Cut 1 bean into 1 inch pieces and drop in the bottle. Give it at least 3 weeks to infuse or to taste before serving. Leave vanilla in bottle.

Vanilla Mousse:

4 servings. Mousse is an old favorite of mine. It’s a great substitute for ice cream, slightly lighter without the egg yolks and easy to make at home. For a special treat add chopped fresh fruit.
1 cup heavy cream
¼ cup confectioner’s sugar
½ tsp. vanilla
¼ tsp. salt
1 egg white-beaten stiff*
Whip cream, add sugar and vanilla. Fold in egg mixed with salt. Pour into a refrigerator tray or mold, cover with plastic and freeze until firm.
* As a replacement for the raw egg—do not accept an egg substitute—there are several suggestions on the internet. One of the best is mixing powdered cashew nuts with milk to a paste. My grandmother used 2 tsp. Knox gelatin, dissolved in 2 Tbs. skim milk, or half and half, cooled and added as the egg would be.

Vanilla Sauce:

About 1 cup yield-Try this turn-about by putting the vanilla over the fruit.
1 ½ Tbs. butter
1 ½ Tbs. flour
2 Tbs. sugar
1/8 tsp. salt
1 cup boiling water
1 inch piece of vanilla bean or 1 tsp. extract
Melt the butter, and stir in the flour to make a paste or roux. Add water, sugar and salt. Stir over low heat until thickened. Add vanilla and allow to infuse. Chill.

Jul 5

Can I help?

YES-If you’re old enough to ask the question. One of the nicest things about cooking is its adaptability to becoming a unifying group activity. When restaurant kitchen staffs are interviewed, the word ‘family’ pops up frequently in describing their work environment. So imagine what it can do to improve bonding in an actual family.

The modified recipes in Can I help? were originally devised to ease stress for those who cook with children in the kitchen, either on a regular basis or for special occasions, to include safe work for little hands. Then the book proved to be able to do much more. It’s a good guide for the novice or the pinch-hitter, under stress to produce an adult-pleasing meal in a strange environment. Also, it can act as a training manual to learn some survival skills for anyone starting, or planning to start out on their own or illustrate ways to simplify your favorite recipes for easier access.

Any adult cooking with children around knows that a kitchen in meal-prep mode is full of sharp objects and hot surfaces. Children are naturally interested, because they love to see something being made, especially when it involves all six senses. An interested child is a curious child and trouble prone if not kept occupied, while a busy child is a safe one. There are many jobs for even young children in a kitchen; washing and drying vegetables, peeling fruit, stirring mixes, they LOVE to pound meat and chop nuts with a mallet or turn a flour sifter. Slightly older ones, with a hand protector, can use a mandolin or grater. Whether on a daily basis, or for special occasions, cooking food with a child creates a bond of sharing.

The novice and the pinch-hitter, no matter how experienced a cook, are both under pressure to produce a meal working in unfamiliar circumstances. There is often the additional stress of this action having been dictated by a specific need; a special event, like Mother’s Day, an absence or illness. These modified recipes make the task simpler, but help finding things, or ingredients is very welcome and forms special friendships.

Obviously, as a training manual, the simplified recipes in Can I help? are invaluable. They keep teens focused and prevent older newbies from feeling like they’ve been enrolled in cooking ‘kindergarten’. If nothing else, it’s an ego saver but these recipes do make the learning process easier, especially since they yield good results. It’s incentive to continue. For a teen, who has been helping in the kitchen since childhood, the recipes are like flight plans for solos. You could end up with a sous chef in the family, which is truly a welcome addition.

Actually, the family as a whole can benefit from this book and summer is a perfect time to begin the process. It’s a laid-back time of year, with the longer hours of daylight giving the evenings a relaxed feeling, lacking the intrusion of outside activities or pressure of homework. Dinner can be a little later, last a little longer and interacting with other family members given more time. Why not start a little earlier, say in the kitchen rather than at table? If everyone helps with meal preparation, it’s that much more time to spend together and the meal becomes a family accomplishment. It doesn’t have to be every night, once a week is a good start, and it can yield rewards the rest of the year too, if the family gets into the habit of pitching in. Simplified recipes can be a huge benefit in easing this process.

The recipes in Can I help? are divided into four groups, breakfast, lunch, dinner and dessert. I’m including a couple of sample recipes from each group below to show how they can be both ‘company presentable’ and easy to make. With each category heading I’ll list a couple of others from that group as examples of the variety of options.

Breakfast:

Other recipes include Eggs Parmesan, Easy Home-Made Cinnamon Buns, Oven Pancake and Melon Boats

Yogurt with Bananas and Nuts:

Serves 4
3 large, ripe bananas
16 oz. Greek yogurt
4 Tbs. toasted chopped nuts, walnuts, almonds or hazelnuts
Peel the bananas and wrap separately in plastic wrap. Microwave 1 min. on high. Cool, unwrap and mash. Gently mix with the yogurt and spoon into 4 dessert dishes. Chill briefly to cool and sprinkle nuts equally over the tops as garnish.

Eggs Florentine:

Serves 4
(1) 10 oz. box frozen chopped spinach
4 eggs
1tsp. salt OR 1 envelope bouillon powder-beef or chicken
Pinch nutmeg
Grated Parmesan cheese
Thaw and drain the spinach in a sieve until it is moist but not wet. Mix in the bouillon or salt and nutmeg then divide it between 4 greased custard cups or ramekins. Top with a raw egg and sprinkle with cheese. Place cups in a pan with ½ inch water and bake at 350 deg. 15 min. or until eggs are set.

Lunch:

Some other options are Strata Burgers, Monte Cristo Sandwiches, Classic Quiche, and Gazpacho-Pasta Salad

Tuna and Bean Salad:

Serves 4
6 oz. can solid white tuna in water- drained
16 oz. can cannellini or other white beans-rinsed and drained
2 plum tomatoes diced
2 tsp. dried basil
Ground black pepper
Salt to taste
1 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. powdered garlic
1 Tbs. oil
2 Tbs. Dijon or spicy mustard
Mix the last 5 ingredients well and set aside to let the flavors form a dressing. Gently toss the first 6 ingredients. then add the dressing. Allow the whole to chill for 30 min. at least to meld flavors. Serve on lettuce lined plates garnished with a sprinkle of basil.

Turkey Mousse:

Serves 4
1 ½ cups chicken or turkey stock
1 envelope Knox unflavored gelatin
1 ½ cups minced cooked chicken or turkey – Deli, canned or leftover
¼ cup mayonnaise** See options at bottom
1 small onion minced
1 stalk celery minced
½ tsp. curry powder
1tsp. celery seeds
¾ cup heavy cream whipped ** See options at bottom
Soak gelatin in a microwave safe cup with ½ cup of stock until softened and risen. Microwave for30 sec. or until dissolved. Mix in all remaining ingredients except cream and chill until beginning to set. Fold in whipped cream and spoon into a lightly oiled 1 qt. mold. Cover and chill overnight. Unmold and serve on a lettuce lined plate.
** Cream can be replaced with yogurt. Use 1 ½ cups plain Greek yogurt and increase mayonnaise to ½ cup.

Dinner:

Among the other choices are My Beef Kabobs, Chicken with Cherries, Pork (or Turkey) Loin with Apricot Glaze and Salad Nicoise. These recipes point out specific tasks for children.

Chicken with Mustard and Honey:
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Serves 4-easy to divide and/or multiply
NOTE: The seasoning ingredients are placed under the skin to help them infuse the meat. This can be done by children and they can count the cooking time.
4 large chicken thighs
4 tsp. honey
4 tsp. Dijon or grained mustard
¼ tsp. ground black pepper—optional
Garlic Powder NOT garlic salt
Mix the honey, mustard and pepper, if using. Lift the skin on the chicken and place 2 tsp. of the mixture on the meat sprinkle with garlic. Place the pieces slightly separated in a roasting pan. With ½ inch of water or broth in the bottom. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven for 30- 40 min. or until juices run clear when pricked with a knife point.
A pan sauce can be made by adding a bit of apple juice, cider or broth to the pan drippings to deglaze.

Double Punch Lasagna Roll-Ups:

Serves 4
Save for the actual cooking, children can do most of the work in preparing this dish.
If you need to plan ahead for an oven-ready dinner, this casserole keeps wonderfully well for 2 or 3 days in the refrigerator, and makes a good party dish, but the stuffed noodles have to be served as separate entities. Don’t randomly cut into the dish.
1 lb. ground turkey (Frozen rolls ex. Jenny-O, work well here. The finer ground seems to compact more easily for stuffing. Be sure to thaw before cooking.)
1 medium onion chopped
(1) 4oz. can mushrooms-stems and pieces – drained
2 tsp. chopped garlic
2 tsp. dried oregano
2 tsp. dried basil
¾ cup ricotta cheese
1 Tbs. oil
4 Lasagna noodles broken in half (or cut after boiling)
(2) 8oz. cans tomato sauce
7 oz. canned diced tomatoes = ½ a 14 oz. can- drained and juice reserved
2 ½ cups milk
5 Tbs. flour
5 Tbs. butter
4 oz. Monterey Jack cheese in small cubes ( peppers optional)
¼ tsp. ground nutmeg
Salt to taste
Grated Parmesan cheese and paprika to garnish
Cook noodles in boiling water until very tender @ 10 min. Drain and keep in cool water so they don’t dry out. In a skillet, heat oil over medium heat and sauté onion until soft @ 3 min. Add mushrooms for 2 min. then add garlic for one minute, then turkey, separating it between the fingers as it goes into the pan, and 1 teaspoon each of the oregano and basil. Cook, stirring, to keep meat separated until it browns @ 5 min. If mixture begins to seem dry or stick to the pan, add a bit of the reserved tomato juice. Stir in ricotta and remove from heat.
Lightly coat a casserole about 9x9x3, with cooking spray. Spread tomato sauce, diced tomatoes and second teaspoons of oregano and basil, in the bottom. Lay out the noodles, and put an equal portion of the meat mixture on each. Roll the noodle around the stuffing, until the ends meet, and carefully lay each, seam side down in the prepared casserole.
In a saucepan, over high heat, melt the butter until it foams. Remove from the heat and stir in the flour to make a smooth paste. This is called a Roux. Add the milk, and stirring constantly to incorporate the roux, return the pan to the stove over medium heat. Continue stirring until sauce thickens, never allowing it to boil (lift the pan for a moment if it starts to) @ 3 min.
When it has thickened, stir in the Jack cheese until it melts, add the nutmeg and salt. White Sauce often does need salt (see Sauces and Gravies Link) Pour this sauce over the noodles, dust with grated parmesan cheese and paprika to garnish. Preheat oven to 375 degrees and bake until sauce bubbles and slightly browns about 30 min.

Dessert:

Here there are three recipes to show the variety. Some other choices in the book are Fruit Pizza, Chocolate No-Cook Bars, Cherry Cobbler and Chocolate Raspberry Cake

Easy Berry Angel Cake # 2


1 purchased pound cake
8 oz. tub of Whipped Topping
1pt. box of strawberries
Save several nice berries for decoration. Slice the rest and sprinkle with sugar. Allow to rest a few hours for the juice to extract itself. Just before serving, cut the cake into 3 layers. Spread first with 1/3rd of the whipped topping, spoon ½ the sliced berries over it allowing the juice to drip down the sides. Repeat with 2nd layer. Finish with 3rd layer topped with the rest of the whipped topping and the reserved decorative berries.

Dump Cake


2 cans fruit pie filling
1 box yellow cake mix
½ cup butter or margarine melted
1 tsp. ground cinnamon – optional
Spread the pie filling in the bottom of a 13 x 9 inch pan, mix with cinnamon if using. Cover with the dry cake mix and pour the butter over all. Do not stir. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven 30 min. until top is golden. Serve with ice cream or whipped topping.

Fruit Gelati:

Makes 1 quart
2 bananas
2 papayas
1 Orange grated to yield 1 Tbs. zest and 1 Tbs. juice reserved
1 lemon grated to yield 1 Tbs. zest and 1 Tbs. juice reserved
1lime grated to yield 1 Tbs. zest and 1 Tbs. juice reserved
½ cup sugar
1 quart milk
1 tsp. vanilla
Blend or process all ingredients until blended. Pour into a shallow pan and freeze overnight. Process again until smooth, pour into a bowl and freeze overnight again. Scoop as ice cream to serve.
Variation: Substitute 1 ripe pineapple diced and 4 peeled and diced kiwi for the other fruit.

Jun 28

HEY REMEMBER ICE CREAM SODAS?

I got one of those ‘Do you remember?’ Facebook messages yesterday, about soda fountains. I don’t remember them in their hay day, when Soda Jerks made coke by the glass from syrup and seltzer, but I do remember the iconic Ice Cream Soda. Nowadays, the only way we sip ice cream through a straw is with milk shakes. I like shakes but most are made from a prepared mix, not from scratch by blending ice cream, syrup and milk to a froth, as they used to be.

Sadly, sodas seem to have disappeared from popularity along with the fountains. The Ice Cream Soda was a special treat, built by hand, opulent, gleaming and overflowing the glass, served with an ice tea spoon and a straw, it took time to eat. It offered contrasts in taste and texture down to the last drop, and left you feeling satisfied, not just filled.

It always seemed the ideal dish for the Fourth of July, as appropriate to the holiday as pumpkin pie to Thanksgiving. My association is also linked to childhood memories. My Aunt and Cousin always arrived July 1st for the summer and every Friday night, they, my Grandmother, my Mother and I went to the movies and afterward to a popular ice cream parlor for sodas. Nothing tasted so good as the soda on that first Friday, which was always within a few days of the 4th.

I can still remember the choices. My cousin and I stood by our usuals, chocolate for me, strawberry for her, but the women varied their orders regularly. Grandmother liked all vanilla, or asked for peach ice cream or one scoop peach and one strawberry. My Aunt picked a chocolate soda with a ripple ice cream, fudge, caramel or peanut, because she liked the taste tweaks as she ate. My Mother chose a chocolate soda with coffee, pistachio or mint chip ice cream, creating different flavors.

Every so often, at this time of year, I used wax nostalgic and make sodas for my kids and their friends, but mine didn’t generously overflow. I wasn’t into cleaning dippy messes and something else was missing. The kids loved them and were always happy I made them, but to children used to soft-serve cones and take-out shakes everywhere, to whom an ‘ice cream fix’ was opening the freezer door, the ‘special’ magic wasn’t there.

I really would like to see the Ice Cream Soda make a comeback. Anyone can make one. All they need is an ice cream scoop and the flavor options are limitless. If my relatives could consider 11 combinations normal in those conservative food years, when Howard Johnson’s 28 flavors was thought exotic, imagine what could be concocted today. Moreover, it’s easy to create new ones with home machines.

There are also many favors of syrups in the markets now. Additionally, we may not be the basic ’from scratch’ cooks our grandmothers were, but we are adept at accessorizing our dishes and that includes making syrups. I make coffee syrup frequently for Tiramisu. Simple syrup is equally easy and can be flavored with pureed fruit and/or extracts. Lemon curd is available and it’s always possible to turn to old standbys like maple syrup or butterscotch sauce to improvise.

Then there’s the huge variety of flavored seltzers in markets today, white grape, peach, raspberry, lime to name just a few. They can provide interesting contrasts in tastes as well. Using flavored soda isn’t a novel idea either. The famous ‘Brown Cow’ was chocolate syrup, vanilla ice cream and coke.

Which brings me to the ‘kissing cousin’ of the ice cream soda, the Float; simpler than the soda, it’s simply a soda pop, originally, I think, root beer, or other carbonated beverage even beer and ale, poured over a scoop of ice cream. Does anyone still remember root beer? Apparently, however, floats aren’t such dinosaurs as ice cream sodas. Guinness features one made with ale in its current recipe book.

So here’s an idea. July 4th is this week. Why not celebrate a truly American holiday by remembering a traditional American drink? You can even make a party of it, kinda like a sundae party, by offering different ice creams, a variety of seltzers and syrups, even some toppings, whipped cream, cherries, jimmies. Line up the options and let people make their own. It doesn’t have to be a large group, in fact smaller is better, but it is festive.

Just one tip; in choosing the ice cream for a soda, think twice about varieties with larger add-ins, like nuts and candy. They don’t fit in a straw, or worse, clog it, making eating difficult. I wouldn’t advise cookie cough either, not just for that reason, but the soda will partially dissolve it and, being heavy, it will sink, leaving a gummy mass in the bottom of the glass.

Happy Fourth of July all

RECIPES

Basic Ice Cream Soda Recipe:

Single serving
20 oz. glass
3 Tbs. flavored syrup or + to taste
2 scoops of ice cream
Chilled club soda, seltzer water (Not sparkling mineral water) or other carbonated drink, cola, ginger ale or other pale soda pop.
Pour the syrup into the bottom of the glass; add about of 1 oz. soda and 1 scoop of ice cream. Stir gently around the sides of the ice cream lifting the syrup up around the scoop. Slowly add more soda to fill the glass ¾, mixing the contents gently as you pour. Add the other scoop of ice cream, and fill the glass with the soda water, creating bubbles.

Basic Ice cream Float:

Single serving
20 oz. glass
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Carbonated beverage, including beer or ale.
Fill the glass about ½ full with the liquid, add the ice cream and then pour over the liquid to fill.

Simple Syrup:
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
Combine and heat, stirring, until sugar dissolves. If it seems thin, cook to evaporate water until desired consistency.

Brown Simple Syrup:
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup water
Follow above directions.

Coffee Syrup:
Method 1) Make either above syrup with strong coffee in place of water
Method 2) Add 1 Tbs. or to taste, instant coffee as you make it. I like Instant Espresso for flavor depth.

Vanilla Syrup:
While cooking simple syrup add from 2-3 tsp. or more vanilla to taste. This amount will also be determined by whether pure extract or imitation is used. The main thing is not to let it dilute the syrup recipe, so the length of cooking time will depend on the degree the fluid needs reducing to achieve the right consistency.

Fresh Fruit Syrups:

Examples of how fresh fruits can be used. Always store chilled. Traditionally these directions would have included straining, but I like the rustic appearance of a rougher texture.
Strawberry
Marinate sliced berries in sugar as for shortcake topping, then puree.
Peach
Method 1) about ½ cup peeled, sliced fruit and 1Tbs. simple syrup, or to consistency, pureed
Method 2) Roasted peach half(halves-depending on quantity wanted) pureed with simple syrup, if needed. Gives a more intense flavor

Blueberry
½ cup blueberries and 1+? Tbs. simple syrup microwaved at 1 min. intervals for 3 min. or until soft, then pureed.

Feel free to experiment—perhaps chopped apple, with cinnamon treated as blueberries or plums substituted for peaches. A few drops of liqueur or extract or a pinch of spice can add to the taste as well.

May 24

PUFF PASTRY IS BOTH ELEGANT AND PRACTICAL

My post on appetizers reminded me how versatile puff pastry is and what fun it is to work with. It gives the impression of luxury but is actually very practical and can make even the humblest of fillings or flavoring ingredients appear elegant.

To share a trade secret with you, personal chefs working for one employer on a daily basis are expected to make everything from scratch. Personal chef service owners have many clients with monthly appointments. During each session, the chef delivers the food, preps it and cooks, usually, 4 or 5 entrees with a combined total of 20 servings, individually packaged for freezing. There isn’t time to make everything from scratch, so these chefs rely on using a few good commercial products.

One of my favorite go-tos is commercial, frozen puff pastry. As a rule, I make my own dough, because I l can make better than I can buy but I can buy better puff pastry than I can make. I don’t feel guilty either because Cordon Bleu trained Julia Child and Alma Lach both mention the option of choosing the excellent commercial brands available. Puff Pastry is notoriously time and labor intensive to make, with often ‘iffy’ results for the inexperienced.

However it is necessary to understand how it’s made to be able to work with it. The French call puff pastry dough ‘pate feuilletee’ or ‘pastry of leaves’. In fact, one class of dessert is called ‘Mille Feuille’ or ‘thousand leaves’ because it consists of multiple layers of delicate, flaky pastry. The ‘puff’ comes from air trapped between the layers which escapes during baking.

The best modernized directions I’ve seen for making puff pastry are in Dione Lucas ‘version in The Cordon Bleu Cookbook. They simplify the classic instructions but will give you an idea of the original.
‘Put 1 cup flour in the middle of a board, mix in 1 tsp. salt and making a well in the center add ½ to ¾ cup ice water and work to a paste. Roll out to a 12 inch square. Put 1 cup butter in the center of the bottom half and fold over. Chill for 15 min. Roll out with angled short strokes, turning the board around as you work to spread the butter over the surface between the layers, ending with the dough in a long strip. Fold 1/3rd over the center, and then fold the top 1/3rd over them. Roll again and chill, covered, for 30 min. Fold, roll, fold, roll and chill 3 more times. Chill for several hours, then either freeze or use.’

Carole Clements and Elizabeth Wolf-Cohen in Classic French Recipes For Special Occasions modernize the process a step further by using a processor. They change the flour to 1 ½ cups cake flour and lower the salt to ¼ tsp. They pulse the two to combine, then add the butter for 3 or 4 pulses and run the machine 5 sec. while slowly pouring in the water. The dough should look curdy with visible pieces of butter. Gather into a ball on a floured surface and chill 30 min. if the butter is soft. Roll out to a 16 x 6 inch rectangle and begin the folding and rolling sequences described in the above recipe.

Now you know why I prefer to buy puff paste over making it, and at today’s butter prices, I don’t even think it’s an expense. The folding process is tedious, but it creates those wonderful ‘leaves’ which also require some special considerations in working with them.

  • Always thaw puff pastry before cutting it or it will crack jaggedly, but don’t worry it refreezes
  • Never slice the pastry. Use a pizza cutter or the point of a sharp knife in a series of straight cuts
  • Don’t press scraps into a ball to save them. Gently press the edges together with a mist of water and roll to seal the seam. Freeze to keep.
  • When baking make sure the sheet is lightly oiled, greased or covered with parchment. For single layers, to insure that the top surface stays smooth and flat, cover with a second piece of parchment and weigh with another baking sheet or pie pan.
  • Puff pastry edges tend to be more even than pie dough, but trim them if necessary to form a straight ‘clean’ line before starting to cut shapes.
  • Before baking, it’s nice to ‘riff’ the edges every inch or so with a knife point to make sure they aren’t crimped and allow the air to escape and the layers to rise or ‘puff’.
  • Avoid using cookie cutters. They are too dull and they crimp the pastry edges, preventing the puff.
  • Always chill the pastry well before using, and always place in a preheated oven.

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Now that all the ‘Don’ts’ are out, let’s get into the fun side of working with puff pastry. I’m going to format this differently than most of my posts and concentrate on the pastry presentations rather than flavorings and/or fillings. So there will be more texts and suggestions, to illustrate how easy it is to use and all it can do and I’m listing the examples by shapes rather than recipes.

STRIPS

Parmesan Pinwheels: Makes 20-24

9 oz. puff pastry

1/3 cup finely grated Parmesan
2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh herbs of choice
1 egg beaten
Mix the cheese and herbs in a bowl. Roll the pastry out to an 8 inch square and sprinkle with half the cheese mix. Roll it again to a 10 inch square, brush with ¾ of the egg, sprinkle with the rest of the cheese mix and carefully roll it into a log. Seal the seam with the rest of the egg. Cut the log into ½ inch slices and place on a greased baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 425 deg. oven for 10 min. until golden and crisp. Cool on a rack. Store in an airtight tin.

Pinwheel Cookies: Makes 20-24
Substitute ¼ cup granulated sugar for the cheese and 1Tbs. ground cinnamon for the herbs. Follow the above directions. TIP: brushing the surface of the cookies with egg will make it shine.
NOTE- to make Bear Claws a.k.a. Pig’s Ears: Rather than rolling from one direction, do it from both sides in towards the center until they meet. Then slice as directed above and bake.

Bread Sticks: Makes 24
Roll dough to a 12 x 14 inch rectangle. Cover the surface of the dough with either option above, or ¼ cup sesame seeds, chopped nuts, sprinkled kosher salt or decorator’s sugar or just brush with egg to give a shine. Divide into (2) 7 inch pieces and cut each into (12) 6 inch strips. Twist the strips and stretching to keep them 6 inches long, place them on a parchment lined baking sheet, pressing the ends down so they don’t untwist in baking. Bake as directed above.

NOTE: In 3 inch lengths these are great appetizer snacks or dessert cookies. For dessert treats, bake them plain and dip 1/3 of each in melted chocolate. Cool and allow to harden.

RECTANGLES

Fresh Tomato Tarts: Makes 6- From Party Food by Parragon Publishing
9 oz. puff pastry
¼ cup pesto sauce

2 pts. Cherry tomatoes-halved OR 6 plum tomatoes sliced
Salt and pepper
1 egg beaten

Fresh herbs of choice for garnish
Roll the pastry out to a 12 x 10 rectangle on a floured board. Cut in half to make (2) 5 inch pieces, then cut them to make (6) 5 x 6 inch pieces. With a fork, score the edges of the pieces and brush with egg. Spread the centers with the pesto and top with the tomatoes, cut side up. Season lightly and bake in a preheated 400 deg. oven for 15-20 min. until puffed and golden. Serve garnished with herbs.

Mille Feuille: Serves 8-From Everyday Meals by Bon Appetit
1 pkg. puff pastry
1 egg beaten

2 Tbs. sugar
Cooking oil spray
Parchment paper
On a floured board roll the pastry out to 8 x 16. Cut into (16) 2×4 inch rectangles. Place on a parchment lined baking sheet, brush with egg and sprinkle with sugar. Coat another piece of parchment with the spray and place oil side down on the pastry. Cover with a second baking sheet and put in a preheated 400 deg. oven. Bake for 20-25 min. Cool. To serve place 1 rectangle on a plate, spoon fresh fruit, fruit compote, pie filling or stewed fruit over it. Top with another rectangle, at an angle looks nice, and spoon whipped cream or ice cream on the side.

Napoleons: Serves 12 – This is a modern, low-fat version of a French classic
1 sheet puff pastry
8 oz. cream cheese
8 oz. whipped topping
3 Tbs. toasted, chopped almonds

1 can chocolate frosting

1 egg beaten

Roll pastry into a 12×12 inch square and divide into (3) 4 x12 inch strips. Prepare and cook as directed for Mille Feuille and cool. Beat whipped topping and cheese until smooth, divide in half and add nuts and extract to half. Spread, spoon or pipe the cheese mix with the nuts down one strip of pastry, cover with a 2nd strip and spread, spoon or pipe with the plain cheese mix. Spread the frosting on the 3rd strip and place on top. Chill several hours until hardened. When ready to serve, slice into 1x 4 inch slices and place flat on the plates.

SQUARES
There are lots of interesting ways to use this shape.

Appetizers:

For appetizers simply cut the pastry into 3 inch squares and place a scant 1-1 ½ tsp. filling in the center; fold over diagonally and using egg as a sealant, press the edges together. Cut a small slit in the top of each and bake in a preheated 375 deg. oven for about 20 min. until golden. Can be made and frozen 1-2 weeks ahead, thaw before cooking. Suggestion for fillings:

  • Meat pate-liver, ham, chicken, crab or shrimp.
  • Thawed, chopped spinach mixed with a little cream cheese and nutmeg to taste
  • Sautéed chopped onion and mushrooms with a dash of Teriyaki sauce for flavor

Turnovers: Serves 4

For these, roll a sheet of puff pastry into a 12×12 inch square and divide in 4 equal pieces. Place about ¼ cup filling in the center and fold over diagonally, using egg to seal the edges. Slash 3 vent holes in the top and bake on a parchment lined baking sheet in a preheated 375 deg. oven for 30 min. until golden.

Turnovers are wonderfully useful. Filled with meat and/or cheese they can replace sandwiches.

However, they’re better known as a dessert and one of my favorites, filled with fruit, washed with egg and sprinkled with sugar to give a lovely, sweet glaze. Some suggestions for fillings are;

  • Slices of ham and cheese, with a smear of mustard, or slices of chicken or turkey, and a touch of chutney.
  • Cooked ground meat with optional seasonings.
  • Diced fruit, tossed with a bit of cornstarch, a sliver of butter and some sugar
  • Cooked fruit compote
  • Ready-made pie filling

Cornish Pastie

My Grandmother couldn’t resist improving on a traditional family recipe. A Cornish Pastie is essentially a 2-3 entrée sized turnover filled with drained cooked meat and vegetables, or frankly, stew. The drained broth from the stew pot is thickened, seasoned and made into gravy, which is passed on the side. Nana replaced regular pie crust with egg washed puff pastry which arrived at table golden and gleaming. She simply rolled it out to a 12 inch square and cooked it according to the turnover directions above, allowing 1 Pastie per 2-3 people. It turned a weekday dinner into a special meal.

Square Stars: Serves 6

These can be made in many sizes, but for this example: roll the pastry to a 10 x 15 inch rectangle and divide into (2) 5 inch strips, then cut them into 3rds making (6) 5 inch squares. Using a glass or jar lid, lightly indent a 2 inch circle in the center of each. With a square directly in front of you, calculate, or visualize the length of one side in 1/3s. (For that size piece, it’s about 1 ½ inches.) Now make a diagonal cut across the middle 1/3rd from the rim of the center indented circle to the outside edge of the square and curl the pointed piece under the top end of the slash over the corner behind it. Repeat with the other 3 sides and bake in a preheated 425 deg. oven for 10-12 min. until golden. Cool and fill the centers with any number of options; fresh or cooked fruit with custard, whipped topping and/or ice cream, tuna or another salad, a dip or pate, even a creamed entrée in place of toast.

CIRCLES

Patti Shells

The best known of this shape are Patti shells, which like the puff pastry sheets are available in the freezer section of most markets and of such high quality that considering other options is ridiculous. Just follow the directions for oven temperatures and cooking times. These are excellent vehicles for creamed entrees, Chicken a la King, Creamed Chipped Beef, with pearl onions, mushrooms and peas added to upgrade it. They’re also good with Asian dishes. I had a Vietnamese friend who hated rice but served the most amazing dishes in Patti shells. I remember a wonderful chicken curry—-

The shells also do dessert duty, filled with fresh fruit, cooked fruit compote or even canned pie filling (just cook the filling in a microwave about 5 min. first and then chill it or serve warm)

Galettes

Puff pastry makes a wonderful Galette crust. Roll out a sheet to a 12 x 12 inch square and round off the corners. Use a plate to indent an 8 inch circle in the center, and fill with fruit. Lift up the 2 inch margin and pleat it to enclose the fruit. Place on a parchment covered baking sheet and bake in a 375 deg. oven 30-40 min. until bubbling and golden.

NOTE; This is great way to showcase the summer stone fruits. Don’t slice, halve plums or apricots, peeled peaches, dust them with cornstarch, add a few slivers of butter and top with a bit of sugar. They pile neatly in the crust and it’s easy to hold them in place while folding up the sides. It adds to the appearance to brush the sides with egg and sprinkle with sugar.

Pie Shells

I knew a woman who, wanting to monetize her hobby, rented a tiny, tiny shop in a food mall. She hung 3 signs; one over the door: The Pie Lady, a second on the door: Open 10 A.M-6 P.M. Friday and Saturday and a third in the window: Pies Made on Order Only. The first 2 weekends, on the stated days, she offered slivers of several different pies. From then on she had a waiting list and had to hire help in a couple of months. Everyone raved about her custard pies, especially Lemon Meringue. Her secret was making the shells of puff pastry. They were light, tasty and remained crisp longer even refrigerated. Her trick was to roll it thin, about ¼ inch, brush with beaten egg, poke some holes in the bottom with a fork, and cover it with oiled parchment paper weighted with rice, dry beans or pie weights, even another pie plate. Bake in a 450 deg. preheated oven about 12 min.

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