Posts from the ‘Recipes’ Category

Aug 19

FUN WITH FROZEN DOUGHS-A BONUS IN SUMMER

For months, the restrictions of social distancing requirements, especially in food markets, has had people compiling lists of needs for longer periods, requiring fewer shopping trips. Actually, teaching how to be organized enough to do this habitually, one trip, minimally per week optimally to only one market, is the opening of the first step of my 3 step behavior modification program explained in How to Control Food Bills, which results in savings of time, stress and money.

Whenever I discuss this program, questions of freshness come up, particularly concerning pastry and bread. My solution to the storing of bread and assuring its freshness is two-fold. Commercial loaves can be frozen. Some specialty ones, like Jewish Rye, develop a wonderfully crisp crust if thawed and baked in a preheated 350 deg. oven for 10-15 min.

However, fresh bread is a daily household need, and I, personally don’t care for plastic-sleeved, pre-sliced loaves. I prefer fresh baked, artisan-style breads and I can get them using frozen bread dough, as well as delightful rolls and breakfast buns, such as designer cinnamon buns and Hot Cross buns for Easter. I’m listing the basics of working with frozen bread dough, and some of my favorite recipes below but check the May 25, 2016 posting to see the ways it can be used pizzas, bread bowls, Stromboli…..

Pastry is another category where frozen dough is miraculous in helping to give baked goods that fresh, delicious appeal, especially if you learn to work with puff pastry. Alone it can make croissants, layers for filings, and crusts for cream pies (try it for Lemon Meringue!!), but in tandem with other ingredients it creates turnovers, pinwheels, bear’s claws and many more elegant, delicious dishes for every course of a meal. As with the bread dough, I’m listing the basics of working with puff pastry below, along with some favorite recipes. For more information, go to the post of May 24, 2018.

RECIPES
Bread

Baking Tips:

Let the dough rise in a rectangular pan for long or stuffed breads-it’s easier to roll, or shape.
To cover the dough as it rises, place a piece of plastic wrap over the dough, lightly spray with cooking spray and flip the wrap over, this way the dough won’t stick to the cover as it rises
To avoid hands and/or utensils sticking to the dough when working it, spray them with cooking spray
Slash the top of the loaf with a razor or sharp knife before baking so the crust won’t split
A baking stone dispenses heat evenly for better, faster baking. Save money and buy an unvarnished quarry stone from a home-supply store. Preheat stone 45-60 min.
Thaw dough in the refrigerator overnight, it shortens the rising time.
To speed rising time, place covered bowl of dough in the microwave with a glass of water. Heat on low 3 min., rest 2 min. heat again 3 min, and rest 8 min. Bulk will have doubled
Use warm water to clean work surfaces. Hot water will bake the dough to them.

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Basic baking information:

After dough has risen, punch it down to disperse air bubbles, then let it rise again. This aerates the dough and makes the bread lighter, without large holes, for even baking
After the first rising is the time to add ingredients and/or shape the dough and/or to stuff it
If forming rolls, after punching, allow dough to rest 5-8 min., shape and place in a pan barely touching. Allow to rise 5-10min. more and bake.
To save over risen dough, punch it down and let it rise again-reason room temperature too warm
To save under risen dough bake it and serve in thin slices.-reason, room temperature too cool.

Glazing and topping advice: different glazes will produce a variety of crusts

For a plain rustic look, simply place the toppings, seeds, herbs etc. on a piece of paper on the counter and lightly dip the top of the unbaked dough into it.
Egg yolk browns, Egg white adds sheen. Whole eggs give both
Milk combined with butter or oil yields a soft crust
Water crisps the crust. For extra crispy spray again 10 before done
Water mixed with whole eggs gives a shiny, brown crisp crust
Honey or molasses makes the crust soft and sweet
To make toppings stick, spray or bush on glaze, add toppings and bake. Re-apply glaze 10 min before done.

Recipes:
Note: To flavor bead, per 1 lb. loaf size, allow to thaw and rise. Punch down and knead in 1/3 cup chopped fresh herbs or 1/2 cup pitted, chopped olives or 2/3 cup sautéed vegetables, such as peppers, onions, celery. The latter will also keep bread moist. Allow to rise again. Bake as directed on package.
To make Cheese Bread, after thawing, knead in 1 cup grated sharp cheese and work in ½ cup of the same cheese diced. Allow to rise until double its size. Bake according to package directions.

Focaccia
1lb. loaf of frozen bread dough
2Tbs.oil
2Tbs. dried rosemary
1Tbs.kosher salt
1 egg-optional
6 black olives halved – optional
Baked with tomatoes on top or packed separately in the lunch pail with cheese, this bread is the original pizza. It’s easy to make with frozen dough and you might want to try incorporating herbs or vegetables into the dough for extra taste. Let the dough rise, punch it down and knead it briefly on a lightly floured surface. Form into a 12 inch circle, cover and let rise for 30 min. Alternately, roll into a 9X13 in rectangle. Indent the top with a spoon handle at 1 inch intervals, brush with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and dried rosemary. Optionally stud the top with olive halves, or sprinkle with salt and dried rosemary. Optionally stud the top with olive halves, or apply an egg glaze for sheen. Bake in a preheated 375 deg. oven for 30-35 min.

The Very Best Cinnamon Buns
1 lb. loaf frozen bread dough
2 Tbs. butter or margarine –melted
½ cup brown sugar
2 Tbs. cinnamon
½ cup raisins
6 Tbs. butter
½ cup brown sugar
½ cup chopped walnuts or pecans
After first rising, roll dough into an 18 X 14 inch rectangle . Leaving a ½ inch margin all around, brush with melted butter, sprinkle with sugar, cinnamon and raisins. Starting from a long side, roll up and leave seam side down while topping is mixed. Cream remaining sugar and butter and spread in the bottom of a 9X13 inch pan, sprinkle on the nuts. Cut dough roll into 1 inch slices, and place barely touching in the pan. Cover and allow to rise for 30+ min. until double in volume. Bake in a preheated 375 deg. oven for 25-20min. until golden. Let cool 3 min. and invert onto serving plate. Spoon over any topping still in pan.

Rolled Dough

Bread Sticks
Allow a 1 lb. loaf of frozen bread dough to rise, punch it down, knead it slightly, optionally adding 2 tsp. caraway seeds or dried herbs and divide into 4 parts. Roll each part into a rope about ½ to ¾ inch in diameter; cut into 6 inch segments, squaring ends. The width of the rope you roll will determine the thickness of the bread sticks, so remember when doing this step that they will have a second rise. Optionally roll the segments into seeds and/or sprinkle with salt. Place them on a lightly floured towel, cover with another and let rise 15 min. Optionally, lightly spray with water to help seed and salt coating, if using, adhere and crisp the crust. Bake on a sheet in a 425 deg. preheated oven for 10 min. until golden.

Soft Pretzels*
Let dough rise, punch down and roll into 12 inch ropes about ½ inch thick. On a lightly floured board, make a loop in the center of the rope, using about 1/3 the length. Twist the ends and bring them down over the loop to form the traditional shape, pressing to make them stick. Place the pretzels on a lightly greased baking sheet and freeze for about 20 min. if you don’t want them to rise again and lose their shape. Spray lightly with water and sprinkle with Kosher salt. Bake in a preheated 300 deg. oven 11-12 min until golden.
Alternatively drop into boiling water for 30sec.to set the shape. Place on the lightly greased sheet and sprinkle with salt. Bake as above.
As a note: soft pretzels don’t have to just be topped with salt. Any of the other bread toppings or glazes will do including changing it up and substituting sugar and cinnamon or adding a sugar glaze after baking.
*For explicit directions and to use Pillsbury breadsticks in place of frozen bread dough and twisting the dough -visit tablespoon.com/recipes/homemade-soft-pretzels/ OR dairyfreecooking.about.com/od/breadsbakery/

Puff Pastry is notoriously time and labor intensive to make, with often ‘iffy’ results for the inexperienced which is why I prefer the frozen. The tedious folding process creates those wonderful ‘leaves’ which also require some special considerations in working with the dough.

Always thaw puff pastry before cutting it or it will crack jaggedly, but don’t worry it refreezes
Never slice the pastry. Use a pizza cutter or the point of a sharp knife in a series of straight cuts
Don’t press scraps into a ball to save them. Gently press the edges together with a mist of water and roll to seal the seam. Freeze to keep.
When baking make sure the sheet is lightly oiled, greased or covered with parchment. For single layers, to insure that the top surface stays smooth and flat, cover with a second piece of parchment and weigh with another baking sheet or pie pan.
Puff pastry edges tend to be more even than pie dough, but trim them if necessary to form a straight ‘clean’ line before starting to cut shapes.
Before baking, it’s nice to ‘riff’ the edges every inch or so with a knife point to make sure they aren’t crimped and allow the air to escape and the layers to rise or ‘puff’ .
Avoid using cookie cutters. They are too dull and they crimp the pastry edges, preventing the puff.
Always chill the pastry well before using, and always place in a preheated oven.

Now that all the ‘Don’ts’ are out, let’s get into the fun side of working with puff pastry. I’m going to format this differently, concentrating on the pastry presentations rather than flavorings and/or fillings. So there will be more texts and suggestions, to illustrate how easy it is to use and all it can do and I’m listing the examples by shapes rather than recipes.

STRIPS

Parmesan Pinwheels: Makes 20-24

9 oz. puff pastry
1/3 cup finely grated Parmesan
2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh herbs of choice
1 egg beaten
Mix the cheese and herbs in a bowl. Roll the pastry out to an 8 inch square and sprinkle with half the cheese mix. Roll it again to a 10 inch square, brush with ¾ of the egg, sprinkle with the rest of the cheese mix and carefully roll it into a log. Seal the seam with the rest of the egg. Cut the log into ½ inch slices and place on a greased baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 425 deg. oven for 10 min. until golden and crisp. Cool on a rack. Store in an airtight tin.

Pinwheel Cookies: Makes 20-24
Substitute ¼ cup granulated sugar for the cheese and 1Tbs. ground cinnamon for the herbs. Follow the above directions. TIP: brushing the surface of the cookies with egg will make it shine.
NOTE- to make Bear Claws a.k.a. Pig’s Ears: Rather than rolling from one direction, do it from both sides in towards the center until they meet. Then slice as directed above and bake.

Bread Sticks: Makes 24

RECTANGLES

Fresh Tomato Tarts: Makes 6- From Party Food by Paragon Publishing
9 oz. puff pastry
¼ cup pesto sauce
2 pts. Cherry tomatoes-halved OR 6 plum tomatoes sliced
Salt and pepper
1 egg beaten

Fresh herbs of choice for garnish
Roll the pastry out to a 12 x 10 rectangle on a floured board. Cut in half to make (2) 5 inch pieces, then cut them to make (6) 5 x 6 inch pieces. With a fork, score the edges of the pieces and brush with egg. Spread the centers with the pesto and top with the tomatoes, cut side up. Season lightly and bake in a preheated 400 deg. oven for 15-20 min. until puffed and golden. Serve garnished with herbs.

Napoleons: Serves 12 – This is a modern, low-fat version of a French classic
1 sheet puff pastry
8 oz. cream cheese
8 oz. whipped topping
3 Tbs. toasted, chopped almonds
1 can chocolate frosting
1 egg beaten

Roll pastry into a 12×12 inch square and divide into (3) 4 x12 inch strips. Prepare and cook as directed for Mille Feuille and cool. Beat whipped topping and cheese until smooth, divide in half and add nuts and extract to half. Spread, spoon or pipe the cheese mix with the nuts down one strip of pastry, cover with a 2nd strip and spread, spoon or pipe with the plain cheese mix. Spread the frosting on the 3rd strip and place on top. Chill several hours until hardened. When ready to serve, slice into 1x 4 inch slices and place flat on the plates.

SQUARES
There are lots of interesting ways to use this shape.

Appetizers:

For appetizers simply cut the pastry into 3 inch squares and place a scant 1-1 ½ tsp. filling in the center; fold over diagonally and using egg as a sealant, press the edges together . Cut a small slit in the top of each and bake in a preheated 375 deg. oven for about 20 min. until golden. Can be made and frozen 1-2 weeks ahead, thaw before cooking. Suggestion for fillings:

Meat pate-liver, ham, chicken, crab or shrimp.
Thawed, chopped spinach mixed with a little cream cheese and nutmeg to taste
Sautéed chopped onion and mushrooms with a dash of Teriyaki sauce for flavor

Turnovers: Serves 4

For these, roll a sheet of puff pastry into a 12×12 inch square and divide in 4 equal pieces. Place about ¼ cup filling in the center and fold over diagonally, using egg to seal the edges. Slash 3 vent holes in the top and bake on a parchment lined baking sheet in a preheated 375 deg. oven for 30 min. until golden.

Turnovers are wonderfully useful. Filled with meat and/or cheese they can replace sandwiches.

However, they’re better known as a dessert and one of my favorites, filled with fruit, washed with egg and sprinkled with sugar to give a lovely, sweet glaze. Some suggestions for fillings are;

Slices of ham and cheese, with a smear of mustard, or slices of chicken or turkey, and a touch of chutney.
Cooked ground meat with optional seasonings.
Diced fruit, tossed with a bit of cornstarch, a sliver of butter and some sugar
Cooked fruit compote
Ready-made pie filling

Square Stars: Serves 6

These can be made in many sizes, but for this example: roll the pastry to a 10 x 15 inch rectangle and divide into (2) 5 inch strips, then cut them into 3rds making (6) 5 inch squares. Using a glass or jar lid, lightly indent a 2 inch circle in the center of each. With a square directly in front of you, calculate, or visualize the length of one side in 1/3s. (For that size piece, it’s about 1 ½ inches.) Now make a diagonal cut across the middle 1/3^rd from the rim of the center indented circle to the outside edge of the square and curl the pointed piece under the top end of the slash over the corner behind it. Repeat with the other 3 sides and bake in a preheated 425 deg. oven for 10-12 min. until golden. Cool and fill the centers with any number of options; fresh or cooked fruit with custard, whipped topping and/or ice cream, tuna or another salad, a dip or pate, even a creamed entrée in place of toast.

CIRCLES

Patti Shells

The best known of this shape are Patti shells, which like the puff pastry sheets are available in the freezer section of most markets and of such high quality that considering other options is ridiculous. Just follow the directions for oven temperatures and cooking times. These are excellent vehicles for creamed entrees, Chicken a la King, Creamed Chipped Beef, with pearl onions, mushrooms and peas added to upgrade it. They’re also good with Asian dishes.

The shells also do dessert duty, filled with fresh fruit, cooked fruit compote or even canned pie filling (just cook the filling in a microwave about 5 min. first and then chill it or serve warm)

Galettes

Puff pastry makes a wonderful Galette crust. Roll out a sheet to a 12 x 12 inch square and round off the corners. Use a plate to indent an 8 inch circle in the center, and fill with fruit. Lift up the 2 inch margin and pleat it to enclose the fruit. Place on a parchment covered baking sheet and bake in a 375 deg. oven 30-40 min. until bubbling and golden.

NOTE; This is great way to showcase the summer stone fruits. Don’t slice, halve plums or apricots, peeled peaches, dust them with cornstarch, add a few slivers of butter and top with a bit of sugar. They pile neatly in the crust and it’s easy to hold them in place while folding up the sides. It adds to the appearance to brush the sides with egg and sprinkle with sugar.

Pie Shells

I knew a woman who, wanting to monetize her hobby, rented a tiny, tiny shop in a food mall. She hung 3 signs; one over the door: The Pie Lady, a second on the door: Open 10 A.M-6 P.M. Friday and Saturday and a third in the window: Pies Made on Order Only. She soon had a waiting list and had to hire help. Everyone raved about her custard pies, especially Lemon Meringue. Her secret was making the shells of puff pastry. They were light, tasty and remained crisp longer even refrigerated. Her trick was to roll it thin, about ¼ inch, brush with beaten egg, poke some holes in the bottom with a fork, and cover it with oiled parchment paper weighted with rice, dry beans or pie weights, even another pie plate. Bake in a 450 deg. preheated oven about 12 min.

Aug 12

ALL ABOUT SEAFOOD

Seafood is more popular in summer, perhaps because it evokes visions of sunny days and sparkling water, more probably because it’s lighter and more digestible in the heat than the fortifying stews and roasts of winter. However, for me, growing up in a seashore resort, with fresh seafood always available, we enjoyed it all year, not seasonally.

Not until I went away to school did I realize how many people refused it, were suspicious of it and were generally un or mis informed about that whole category of foods. After I began to travel, I was surprised to learn that Americans consume far less seafood than those in other countries, one-fifth the amount per capita than the Spanish for example.

Interestingly, after fifty years of focus on nutrition, diet and health, with the benefits of eating fish being praised, statistics haven’t changed much. Modern freezing and transportation facilities have made globally resourced seafood available to even the most inland towns in the U.S. There are now over 66 varieties of fish alone sold. However, though consumption in restaurants has markedly increased, OTC purchases are only slightly higher, with the bulk remaining in the traditional categories of locally resourced items.

This indicates that Americans are willing to eat more seafood and try new offerings, but lack the knowledge to be confident in buying and preparing it. All About Seafood clears the confusion by defining the main sections within the category, fish, shellfish, mollusks, canned fish, describing the items in each section and how to use them. It gives detailed directions on how to choose and how much to buy per serving (including a shrimp chart), how to store (safe handling for fresh and frozen), prepare, including skinning fillets, and serve them with recipe examples. It explains the differences between salt and fresh water fish and separates fish species into specific types for nutritional and serving purposes.

Below is a selection of recipes from the book. If you want more suggestions for serving seafood this blog is filled with them. I always write a post for Lent and usually a few over the summer. Simply check the Archives, using the drop menu in the right margin of any blog page to go to the article, or scroll the panorama on the Home Page and click the ‘Read More’ button on any post which interests you. I would especially recommend June 15, 2013, Sept. 25, 2013, April 23, 2014, April 15, 2015, March 16, 2017, July 6, 2017, July 13, 2017, Feb. 8, 2018, Feb. 15, 2018, June 14, 2018, March 23, 2019, Feb. 21, 2020.

RECIPES

Avocado Bisque; 4 Servings
2 avocados cut into chunks
3 cups chicken broth
1 cup sour cream
2 Tbs. chives
(4) skinless salmon filets @ 4-5 oz. each
Salt and pepper to taste
Step 1-Puree avocado and broth in a blender until smooth and creamy adding 1/2 cup sour cream. Chill
at least 2 hours and up to 8 to thicken. Stir well.
Step 2 – Bring 2 in. of water to a simmer in a sauté pan. Poach salmon 8 min. per inch of width until light
pink and flakes. Allow to cool.
Step 3 – Divide soup among 4 soup plates. Place one salmon fillet in the center of each and top with a
dollop of remaining sour cream and garnish with chopped chives. Serve cold.
Alternate Variation: Replace avocados with 2 large English cucumbers peeled and sliced OR 3 large farm stand cucumbers peeled, seeded and sliced. Simmer cucumbers in broth until soft-about 10 to 15 min.
Proceed with blender as directed above.

Gravalax—This is for 1 ¼ lb. Make adjustments for larger or smaller amounts.
1 ¼ lb. salmon fillet – with skin
2 Tbs. sugar
¾ cup chopped fresh dill
2 Tbs. Kosher salt
1tsp. fresh ground pepper
Mix all the dry ingredients. Pat the fish dry and rub all over with the seasonings. Wrap in plastic place on a flat surface, cover with a plate or pan and weigh down with cans or a brick. Refrigerate for 2 to 3 days, draining liquid daily, replacing wrapping each time. Before serving, scrape off seasonings. Cut in very thin slices on a 30 deg. angle with a sharp knife, lifting them off the skin as you go. Serve in any recipe that calls for smoked salmon—generally serves 4

Coconut Crusted Tilapia: Serves 4
4 Tilapia filets – about 1lb
1 cup plain Panko
½ cup sweetened coconut flakes – toasted
½ cup + mayonnaise
Lemon pepper
Step I- Preheat oven to 350 deg. Toast coconut on a piece of foil until golden, about 4 min. watching that edges don’t burn. When cool mix with Panko.
Step 2 – Place fish on a lightly oiled cooking surface, a pan or baking sheet. Completely cover the tops with a thin sheet of mayonnaise, more like a veneer. Dust lightly with lemon pepper.
Step 3 – Sprinkle with Panko-coconut mix, and bake 8 min. per 1 inch width of filet, until top is golden, fish puffs slightly and edges bubble. Serve at once
NOTE: I put the breading mix in an empty herb bottle with a shaker top. It’s easy to apply, and any extra can simply be stored in the bottle.

Salad Nicoise: Serves 6 – 8
1 lb. fresh whole or cut green beans – frozen is fine
6-8 small new potatoes – halved if larger – keep size uniform-canned will do – drained
(2) 6 oz. cans solid white tuna in water – drained*
(1) 5 ¾ oz. can pitted black olives
4 hard-boiled eggs – quartered
4 Roma or small tomatoes – quartered- OR 1 pt. cherry or grape tomatoes
Bibb lettuce or Romaine
Optional add-ons – (1) 15 oz. can of pickled beets and/or 6-8 anchovy fillets
Cook the beans, and potatoes if raw, until crisp tender. A special flavor is added if they are marinated in a little white wine for a few hours.
Line a large platter with the lettuce leaves. Gently fork separate the tuna chunks and mound them at 6 O’clock on the plate. Mound the potatoes at 12 and decoratively distribute the other ingredients separately in mounds evenly around the plate, except the anchovies. If using, they should be laid across the tuna. The mounds can be pie shaped wedges, pointing to the center, or the center can be filled with fresh herbs or chopped lettuce pieces. If using the beets, the black olives can be piled in the center. The point is to arrange the plate as decoratively as possible but have it appear as a miniature buffet, with each of the ingredients presented individually for ease of self-serving.
Serve with the dressing created for this salad, below.
NOTE: This can also be served with (1) 4 to 5 oz. grilled or broiled tuna steak per serving.
Nicoise Dressing: Serves 6- 8
4Tbs. minced shallots – or mild onions
2 Tbs. dry mustard – 4 of Dijon can be used
5 drops of hot sauce
5Tbs red wine vinegar
3Tbs fresh lemon juice – 2 tsp. of concentrated will do
2 ½ cups salad oil.
Mix the ingredients well and allow to meld for several hours. Drizzle a little over the Tuna, and serve the rest on the side

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Shrimp Creole: Serves 4

1 lb. medium shrimp—raw, cleaned
½ cup onion in large dice
½ cup celery in ½ inch slices
1 small green pepper in large dice
4 cloves garlic – sliced- or 1 Tbs. jarred
2 Tbs. oil
6 oz. can tomato paste
1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
1 lb. can whole tomatoes with juice
1 tsp. hot sauce
2 tsp. cornstarch dissolved in
2 Tbs. water
Salt and pepper
2 cups long grain rice or 4 servings of precooked rice
1 envelope chicken bouillon granules
Red pepper flakes to taste

Sauté vegetables and garlic in oil until crisp tender. Add tomatoes and tomato paste, hot and Worcestershire sauces. Cover and slow simmer 20 min. add cornstarch mixed in water and stir to incorporate. Add red pepper flakes to taste. . Pile shrimp on top, cover and simmer 15 min. more. If making rice from scratch, add bouillon to water, if using precooked, stir in granules and heat through. Serve shrimp over rice.

Creamy Tuna Mold: Serves 8-10
3 envelopes Knox unflavored gelatin – divided
1 cup water – divided into two half cups
1 ½ cups small curd cottage cheese
¼ cup finely diced green bell pepper
2 Tbs. finely diced or grated onion
Salt and pepper
(2) 5 ½ oz. cans chunk white tuna – drained
½ cup finely diced celery
2 Tbs. lemon juice
¾ cup mayonnaise
2 quart solid mold
LAYER I
Soak 1 ½ envelope of gelatin with 2 Tbs. cold water until it expands, then dissolve in remainder of ½ cup water boiling. Mix with the cheese, peppers, onion salt and pepper. Pout into the bottom of the mold and chill.
LAYER II
Repeat the above process with the remainder of the gelatin and water. Mix with celery, lemon juice, mayonnaise, and tuna. Pour into the mold on top of layer I. Chill until firm, several hours or overnight. Unmold be dipping in hot water to the count of 10 and inverting onto a serving plate. Chill again to firm. Cut in slices to serve.

Bowtie Pasta with Salmon in Vodka Dill Sauce: Serves 8

1 box bowtie pasta
16 oz. jar Vodka Sauce
16 oz. can salmon – cleaned and drained
2 Tbs. Dried dill weed
2 drops hot sauce – optional

Warm the sauce over low heat adds the hot sauce. Cook the pasta to desired doneness and drain. Have the salmon cleaned and drained. Toss the pasta with just enough sauce to coat. Add the salmon and dill and toss gently to incorporate. Serve hot.

The above recipe is an easy, quick version of a classic. For those who want to try it in the classic form, the recipe is below, or perhaps just to make the sauce instead of using jarred.

Smoked Salmon in Pasta with Vodka Sauce: Serves 4

(1) 20 oz. can crushed tomatoes OR 11/2 lbs. fresh Plum tomatoes skinned, seeded finely chopped
1 cloves garlic – mashed
1 medium onion – diced
1 Tbs. oil or butter
½ cup Vodka
½ cup heavy cream
(1) 8oz package sliced, smoked Salmon
1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley
1 lb. of a shaped pasta – bowties are traditional
Dash of red pepper – optional

Slice salmon in 1 inch pieces. In a skillet over medium heat, sauté the onion in the oil or butter for 2 min., add the garlic and cook 1 min more. Add the tomatoes, lower the heat. and simmer about 10 min., to reduce slightly and mash a bit, Add the vodka and simmer 5 min more. Add the cream, stir to incorporate well and simmer another 5 min. Gently add the salmon and heat through, stirring very little to avoid tearing the meat, about 15 sec. Cook the pasta al dente while the tomatoes are simmering. Drain and, while still hot, gently pour into the skillet, then turn the contents of the skillet onto a platter, and apportion on 4 plates, gently guiding it with a wooden spoon. The object is to have the pasta fully coated with the sauce, while leaving the meat pieces intact. Sprinkle with the fresh parsley, and serve.

Aug 5

A NEW LOOK AT MELONS

Before the introduction of rapid air transport and commercial globalization of crops, melons were the jewels of the summer season. My home state was famous for Jenny Lind cantaloupes and they were eagerly anticipated. Now, I understand they’re rarely seen, as are the roadside farm stands which sold them. In fact, wherever one lives, even in Farmer’s Markets, truly ‘Local’ produce is becoming scarce. (See posting Jan. 14, 2021)

On the flip side, we now get many items year ‘round, among them melons, especially cantaloupes, watermelons and some honeydews. Casabas, Persians and, my Mother’s favorite the spicy-sweet Crenshaws are limited to boutiques. As a result, our perception of melons has changed in the past few years. Recipes can be found to include them in every course of a meal, and they are combined with other ingredients, rather than soloing in appetizers and desserts. Although, I’m still partial to Prosciutto con Melone, with thin slices of ham wrapped around cubes or wedges of cantaloupe, or a wedge of icy honeydew with lime quarters on the side.

Generally, Melons’ taste is mild, their flavor subtle, and the flesh, high in water content, is substantial in volume. Consequently, though delicious cold, melons are the only fruit, which, except for the rind, doesn’t cook well, despite the recent ‘watermelon fries’ fad. Delicious alone, melons mild flavor combines well with other ingredients and the meat makes excellent bedding in salads and compotes.

When vine ripened, melons slip off their stem, the stump end is indented. If harvested on a schedule, it’s cut away leaving a stump. The more wrinkled the stump, the longer the melon’s been stored. To pick a melon, the best test is to thump it and listen for a hollow sound and the smooth end should yield gently to pressure. Ripe cantaloupes have a faint, sweet fragrance as well. Finally, shake the melon and if you hear the seeds rattle softly it’s ripe but if they are loud, it’s apt to be dry. Unlike other fruits, melons don’t ripen once picked, so eat them soon.

Watermelons are an exception in a few ways. They are native to North Africa, not the East as other melons and, due to the dispersion of the seeds in the meat, are classified as a berry. They come in several colors, yellow, pink, red and white but all have the same nutritional value. Generally, the larger the riper and sweeter, so test them by slapping them with the open palm. A ripe melon will have an almost musical ring said to resemble B Flat. Uncut melons will keep for two weeks at room temperature, longer if chilled. Cut melons should be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated but last for several days.

Now, a few tips on working with melons. Wash the outside well, before cutting into one. A knife slicing through the rind can carry contaminants into the flesh. Melons are loaded with nutrients but they quickly disintegrate when exposed to light and air, so avoid buying cut segments. Once opened, cover the exposed flesh with plastic wrap and store chilled. I put mine in a black plastic bag in the fridge.

Below are 11 recipes, using different melons, for a variety of dishes to serve throughout a meal, illustrating the new-found versatility of melons. For lots more recipes see July 22, 2016, Aug.30,2018, Aug. 8,2019, and Aug. 27, 2020.

RECIPES

Melon Salsa: Serves 4
Wonderful with chicken or fish
½ small cantaloupe –seeded and cubed
4 scallions- white and light green parts in thin slices or ½ small onion in small dice
½ green bell pepper in small dice
1 Tbs. chopped fresh mint
½ lime juiced
Pinch salt

Watermelon Pickle:
Remove the meat and cut the green skin off the rind. Cut the white pith into about 1 inch pieces. Cover with well salted water and soak for 12 hrs. Drain and cover with fresh water and boil rapidly for about 10 min. until crisp tender and drain. For every pound of rind allow
1 cup water
1 cup vinegar
2 cups sugar
2-3 inches stick cinnamon
8 cloves
1 oz. fresh ginger root-sliced
Boil these ingredients until they form a syrup. Add the rind and return to a boil. Remove from heat and cool. Place in clean glass jars with tightly screwed tops. Store chilled. Keeps for years if kept cold. Excellent in place of sweet pickles or accompanying poultry.

Honeydew-Pineapple Soup: Serves 4
4 cups seeded, cubed honeydew
2 cups cubed, fresh pineapple
2 Tbs. honey
1 Tbs. lime juice
½ cup sour cream
½ cup yogurt
Pinch all spice
Blend everything to a puree and chill. Serve garnished with chopped fresh mint.

Moosewood Melon Soup: Serves 4*- from the Moosewood Restaurant New Classics Cookbook
6 cups cubed cantaloupe
14 oz. can coconut milk
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
2 Tbs. grated fresh ginger
2 Tbs. chopped mint
1 tsp. almond extract
Dash cinnamon
@¼ cup brown sugar or to taste
Puree all the ingredients, adding the sugar to taste. Chill well. Serve garnished with mint leaves.

Steak and Watermelon Salad: Serves 4—by Judy Kim for Delish

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1. Tbs. brown sugar
1. tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. chili powder
1 lb. cooked Flank steak
2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 cups arugula greens
1/4 cup Chopped red onion
1 cup croutons
2 cups watermelon, cut into chunks
1/2 cup feta
Sea salt
In a small bowl mix brown sugar, garlic powder and chili powder. Massage all over steak. Preheat grill or cast-iron grill pan on high heat. Grill steak for 5 minutes on each side, then let meat rest for 3 to 4 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large bowl mix together vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper. Toss in arugula, onion, croutons and watermelon.
Slice the meat against the grain. Serve steak with watermelon panzanella salad and top with feta and a sprinkle of sea salt.

Melon-Scallop Salad: Serves 4
2 cups melon-any type but watermelon
1 ½ cups chopped tomatoes
½ cucumber-seeded and cubed
1 small onion in thin rings
1 Tbs. fresh mint
1 head green leaf lettuce
1/3 cup citrus vinaigrette
1 lb. broiled scallops
Toss first 5 ingredients and divide among lettuce lined plates. Top with scallops and drizzle with vinaigrette.

My Watermelon-Tomato Salad: Serves 2
½ lb. firm fish-baked or broiled- I like Monkfish- cooked chicken is also good. A Louis Kemp product can be used as well.
2 medium tomatoes in thin wedges
2 cups watermelon in rough chunks
3 scallions sliced on an angle
Salt and pepper to taste
4 cups green leaf lettuce – torn in bite sized pieces
Balsamic vinaigrette-commercial or DIY
Place all the salad ingredients in a large bowl gently toss and plate. Drizzle with some dressing and pass the rest.
OPTION: Add ½ lb. firm fish-baked or broiled- I like Monkfish- cooked chicken is also good. A Louis Kemp product can be used as well. When making separate the meat into chunks, avoid cutting if possible, and toss gently.

Melon Sherbet: Serves 6-8
1 medium melon-cantaloupe or casaba
Juice of ½ lemon
4 egg whites
6 oz., sugar-super-fine or ’bar’ sugar is best
¼ -1/2 cup cherries or berries for garnish-optional
Fresh mint leaves for garnish-optional
Cut the melon in half, in a zigzag pattern if shell is to be used it for serving. Remove seeds and cube meat. Blend with the lemon juice until smooth. Pour into a 1 ½ quart container and freeze until beginning to set. Beat the egg whites until stiff and gradually add the sugar. Gently whisk or beat the melon mixture until broken up and light. Fold in the egg whites and return to the freezer and freeze until firmly set. Serve by the scoopful, in the melon shell or dishes. Garnish with fruit and/or mint. Keeps frozen about 1 month.
NOTES: Choose overripe fruit to make sherbet.
For anyone concerned over Salmonella, I recommend substituting Wilton Meringue Powder in any recipe that calls for directly adding raw beaten egg whites. See June 30, 2016 posting on Icy Desserts.

Melon with Ice Cream
My Mother introduced this dessert to my Father’s family. They learned to love it and even had competitions as to the combinations.
Cut a thin slice off one end of the melon and stand it up. Cut a slice off the top just low enough to expose the interior. Scoop out the seeds and fill with softened ice cream or sherbet. Secure the ’cap’ piece with toothpicks and freeze until ice cream is firm. Serve cut in wedges or in rings. Garnish with a drizzle of a complimentary liqueur- Triple Sec or Crème de Menthe.

Watermelon Granita: Serves 4
1 small watermelon-seeded and cubed
Sugar to taste
Dash hot pepper sauce and/or lime juice and/or salt to taste
Blend the melon meat and strain through a fine sieve or cheesecloth. Add sugar, dissolve, then add the other flavorings sparingly. Put into a metal 9 X 13 inch pan. Freeze, scraping with a fork to break up every 20-30 min. for 2-3 hours until resembles fluffy shaved ice. Store in a covered container in the freezer for 1 week. Scrape to fluff before serving. (The ice chips don’t clump during storage.)

Melon Tequila : Serves 4 -From Rozanne Gold’s Recipes 1-2-3 Menu Cookbook
1 large ripe cantaloupe, watermelon or combination
½ cup tequila + extra for dipping glass rims
4 Tbs. sugar + extra for dipping glass rims
Salt and pepper
Using a scoop make melon balls. Place melon balls in a bowl with other ingredients stirring to dissolve sugar. Cover and chill for 30 min. Dip glass rims in extra tequila then sugar to coat. Fill the glasses with the melon balls. Spoon over any remaining marinade. Serve at on

Tipsy Watermelon

Cut a plug about 2 inches square and deep in a melon. Pierce the meat several times with an ice pick or similar utensil and pour in liquor of choice, rum, brandy, wine something that will add flavor, filling melon. Replace plug and refrigerate melon 24 hrs. turning occasionally. Cut melon open and serve cut marinated meat and serve with juices.
Watermelon cocktails are trending -check the web.

Nana’s Cooler:

My grandmother made a refreshing drink by pureeing the meat and straining the pulp. Add salt and chill, serve with a lime wedge and if available a sprig of mint. This doesn’t say “no” to a jigger of vodka, gin or tequila.

Jul 29

ICY DIY GRANITAS

These recipes are ‘older’ in the sense that they’re classics, but they do showcase seasonal fruit, they’re easy to make, are perfect cooling snacks and can be dressed up to fit a particular occasion. Their only fault is that they do require time to chill. On the other hand, they can be prepared, not just ahead but waaaay ahead, and popped out of the freezer at will, ideal for feeding any sized group.

Properly called ‘Granitas’ we know them as ‘Water Ice’. Developed in Naples, Italy in the mid-1500s, actually the grandparents of ice cream, they are healthy frozen sweets, consisting only of mashed fruit or juice, water and optional amounts of sugar. They are also the simplest to make, basically requiring only an ice tray or pan and a fork. Later the Italians added whipped egg whites to the mix to smooth the texture, creating sherbet. Then they substituted a cooked custard base for the sugar and water and Vola! Ice Cream! To see examples of the three go to the post for June 22, 2016.

I love granitas. If they melt they can be re-frozen or consumed as a drink but most of all, they’re cooling, non-filling and almost guilt free calorically. The big bonus is that if you make your own, the flavor variety is endless and the caloric content is negotiable because the sugar quantity is to taste and the use of substitute sweeteners optional.

The recipes below are some of my favorites, especially the one I developed using canned fruit because it opens so many possibilities. I will warn you, especially if you go the canned fruit route, chilling dulls taste, so when you choose a fruit, make a list of possible spices, herbs, extracts and/or liqueurs you can add to punch up the flavor. And don’t forget with all granitas, you have to fork fluff or re-blend them at least once during the freezing process to achieve the right texture.

RECIPES

Basic Granita: Serves 4
1 ½ cups water
½ cup sugar
½ cup juice or other flavoring liquid- or extract squeezed from pureed fruit*
¼ cup lemon or lime juice
Pinch salt – optional
Additional flavorings-spices, herbs and/or garnishes—optional
Over low heat dissolve sugar in water, remove from heat and add flavoring liquid and juice, cool and put into a metal 9 X 13 inch pan. Freeze, scraping with a fork to break up every 20-30 min., for 2-3 hours until resembles fluffy shaved ice. Store in a covered container in the freezer for 1 week. Scrape to fluff before serving. (The ice chips don’t clump during storage.)
*I often make this with cranberry juice, but other juices and liquids like coffee, green tea (matcha) even flat soda pop and pureed, strained fruits can be used as well. For example, it can be made with meat from ½ a watermelon, blended and squeezed through a sieve. Small amounts of liquor can also be added but beware the alcohol prevents freezing so use only enough to give taste. With some mixtures a dash of pepper is nice. The flavoring options are endless.

Orange-Campari Granita: Serves 4-6*
Juice of 3-4 large oranges strained, to make ½ cup*
½ cup superfine or bar sugar-or slightly more to taste
2 ½ cups water
2 Tbs. Campari
Mint leaves to garnish
If using fresh oranges, remove peel, without white pith, from 3 of them. Dissolve sugar in water over low heat then boil for 2 min. without stirring, wiping down pan sides with a wet brush. Pour mixture into a non-metallic shallow, freezer safe container with a cover and add orange peel to steep while mixture cools. When cool add strained orange juice and Campari; cover and chill for at least 30 min. Remove zest and freeze for 1 hour. Transfer mixture to a bowl and beat to break-up ice crystals . Return to freezer container and freeze for 30 min. Repeat twice more. Store covered for 2 months. Serve by the scoop.
*Strained commercial juice can be used and flavors are optional—omitting the Campari.

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Melon Granita: Serves 6-8
1 medium melon-cantaloupe, casaba or sugar baby watermelon
Juice of ½ lemon
6 oz., sugar-super-fine or ’bar’ sugar is best
¼ -1/2 cup cherries or berries for garnish-optional –See Berry Puree recipe below
Fresh mint leaves for garnish-optional
Cut the melon in half, in a zigzag pattern if to be used it for serving. Remove seeds and cube meat. Blend with the lemon juice until smooth. Pour into a 1 ½ quart container and freeze until beginning to set. the scoopful, in the melon shell or dishes . Garnish with fruit and/or mint. Keeps frozen about 1 month.
NOTE: Choose overripe fruit or blanch it if not quite ripe. It freezes smoother.

Granita di Lemone: Serves 6
1 cup lemon juice-fresh squeeze
1 cup sugar or more to taste
2 cups water
Dissolve the sugar in the water by bringing to a boil and simmer for 5 min. until syrupy. Cool. Then add the lemon juice and freeze as described in the directions for basic granita above. Scoop to serve n garnish with mint or Lemon Balm.

Granita di Fragole: Serves 6-8
2 lb. fresh strawberries, raspberries or blueberries mashed to equal 2 cups pulp
1 cup sugar or to taste
1 cup water
½ EACH 1 lemon and 1 orange-juice only

Dissolve sugar in water to make a syrup as described above. When cool, add juices and pulp and freeze as directed above.

Granita al Café: Serves 6
6 oz. espresso granules
6-7 Tbs. sugar-to taste
2 pints water
Put the sugar and the coffee in the top of a double boiler. Bring the 2 pints of water to a boil and pour over them. Allow them to steep and infuse over water kept at a low simmer for 30 min. Cool and strain, then freeze as for any granita. Serve in bowls, optionally topped with a bit of cream.

My Easy Plum Granita: Serves 4
1) 30 oz. can of purple plums, pits removed, OR any other canned fruit
Pinch ginger-optional OR seasonings appropriate to the fruit used
Process the fruit to a puree, adding only enough syrup to get the proper texture. I use all of it with plums, but not with pears. Place the puree in a sealed container, freeze for 1 hr. and stir well, you may have to re-blend it if it’s very thick or seems too icy. Repeat until entire container is of equal texture. Keep sealed in the freezer. Keeps as long as a commercial product.
NOTE: This can be made into an elegant dessert by punching a hole in the center of a scoop with a wooden spoon handle and filling it with a complimentary flavored liqueur.
Can also be made with fresh, roasted peach halves and very ripe pears.

Berry Puree: Yield –about 1 ½ cups-This puree is a real asset to have on hand.
2 cups blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
Combine the berries and powdered sugar in a food processor and pulse until smooth. Taste and adjust sugar if necessary. Strain through a mesh strainer. Can be frozen in ice cube trays and the cubes stored in bags. Thawed it makes a wonderful topping (1 cube per serving) or swirl in ice cream, cream or as a cake filling. It’s also a ready flavoring for basic granita or drinks.

Jul 22

BURGERS WITHOUT BEEF

It’s the height of grilling season, which means that the seasonal novelty has worn off, new recipes earmarked over the winter have been tested and burgers should have slid into that traditional ‘easy summer dinner’ slot. In fact, with all the grills available now, indoors as well as out, burgers can be a quick meal option all year. See posts Aug. 30, 2012 and Sept. 28, 2017.

However, there’s been a big ingredient change. The ‘burger’ isn’t necessarily beef. In 2008, we were warned, due to the draught, the herds had to be culled, raising prices. The herds were restored by 2010, but beef prices haven’t, and won’t, be coming down. Unfortunately, at that same time, our government lost control over our food supply, both agriculture and husbandry. Both are now run by international conglomerates. See post Jan. 14, 2021-*Footnote-The Story is Simple

Nevertheless, the lure of enjoying the warm sunny weather, while keeping the heat and mess of cooking out of the kitchen is irresistible, especially on a busy weeknight or if it involves entertaining and burgers are still the simplest things to make and eat for an outdoor meal. In my post of June 10, 2014, I offered options to beef burgers but those five are only a start and even among them allow for variations. Do check them out because they are delicious, far from boring and slightly more elegant than the recipes below.

Pork and poultry burger toppings can be switched. Sliced, sweet, ripe fruit like mangos and peaches, or dried berries like cranberries are interchangeable or they could be add-ins on the mustard glazed burgers. All the seasonings in lamb recipes can be replaced by simply brushing the meat with mint sauce* before and during cooking and eliminating the cumin from the mint-yogurt sauce at the end. Cooked peppers and onions can be added to poultry recipes as toppings. Parmesan or Mozzarella can be added to the sausage burgers. As I always say – the possibilities are endless, use your imagination and you’ll be a family hero. Also, serving the burgers on different types of buns is a good way to arouse interest-rye, pretzel, ciabatta…..

* Mint Sauce; Lee and Perrins make a good one, but to do your own: Remove heavy stems from a bunch of mint and wash well. Cover the mint with cider vinegar, and bring to a boil, reduce heat add sugar, or sweetener to taste. Simmer until mint is cooked, about 4 min. Cool and blend until leaves are very fine. Bottle in glass (I use clean salad dressing bottles), cool completely, cap securely and store in a cool dark place. Keeps for years; Also good on vegetables, on fruit and in salads. Since this sauce contains sugar which burns quickly, use it sparingly and mixed with a bit of oil to prevent the meat sticking to the grill until the final 2-3 min of cooking. This is really a case where the cook must exercise judgment, because the size of the meat rolls, the heat of the coals and the distance of the grate from the fire are variables. Just keep an eye on it.

I’ll repeat a few tips from the 2014 post to ease your path.

1.The ground meat sold in rolls. Both in the freezer and in the meat counter are essentially minced. They are too compact to stretch to the required portions and too brittle to hold up under grilling. That’s why I advise the butcher ground meat found in packaged in the meat counter.

2. Poultry is dryer than other meats and may need a binder to insure it’s stable enough for the grill. Egg is the best option to bind it, but other things may help as well or in addition to egg.

3.Cooked rice, leftover mashed potatoes or milk dampened fresh breadcrumbs are good choices added in the ½ cup to l lb. meat ratio. All will bind meat, and if needed, stretch it to fit the required amount. Remember though, these things are neutral in taste and may dilute the flavor you want to achieve. Be sure to taste to see if you need to increase the seasonings.

4.Fresh or dried breadcrumbs are usually recommended to bind ground meat, but grilling things, especially poultry is a special case. Standing up to the grate on a grill is different than being cooked in a pan and the dryness makes a patty difficult to turn over, and can make it unpleasant to eat. Molding meat into kebobs and cooking it on skewers is a good solution.

5.One way to make it easier for the meat on skewers to hold together on the grill grate is to dip the filled skewers into boiling water for a second or two before putting them on the grill—just long enough for the egg to set and bind them.

6.Bamboo skewers need to be soaked before using, but soak a pack at a time, and freeze them, then there will always be some ready. Remember to grease them so the meat will slide off without breaking.

RECIPES– These meats are leaner than beef, so keep a small dish of oil by the grill and brush the patties before cooking and when turning to prevent sticking.

Basic Chicken or Turkey Burger: Serves 4
1 lb. ground chicken or turkey
1 tsp. garlic powder or 2 cloves crushed
1 tsp. lemon zest or ½ tsp lemon pepper –omit salt if using this
1 thick slice white bread-crusts off-soaked in milk for 15 min.
1 egg
1 Tbs. dried parsley
¼ tsp. nutmeg
Flour
Squeeze the excess milk from the bread and mix all the ingredients together in a bowl. Shape into 4 patties on a floured board. Make a dent I the top of each to stop puffing during cooking. Cook on a hot grill until done-about 5 min. per side. Top each burger with a grilled peach half.

Ham Burgers: Serves 4
1 lb. cooked ham ground-roast leftovers or deli ends
1 egg
1/3 cup fresh bread crumbs
¼ tp. Muted powder
Pinch ground cloves
Pepper to taste
3 Tbs. milk or more if needed
Mix all the ingredients in a bowl and shape into 4 patties. Chill until set, about 15-20 min. Grill until nicely marked, turning once. Top with a slice of grilled pineapple.

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Lamburgers: Serves 4
1 lb. ground lamb

1 egg

1 Tbs. minced onion

1 Tbs. chopped fresh mint

¼ tsp. dried rosemary

Ground black pepper

¼ tsp. lemon pepper or to taste
Mix all the ingredients in a bowl and shape into 4 patties. Chill until ready to cook, can be made a day ahead if kept covered. Cook over hot coals for 10 min. turning once until done.
Top with the following sauce:
1 cup plain yogurt

3 Tbs. chopped fresh mint

¼ tsp. cumin powder

Mix the 3 ingredients and chill at least 30 min. Serve on or with the burgers.

Chaurice: Serves 4

2 lb. ground pork
1 medium onion grated
1-2 cloves minced garlic-to taste
1 tsp. Tabasco
1 tsp. EACH ground black pepper, parsley flakes, dried thyme
1 Bay leaf-crumbled
Salt to taste
1/8 tsp. allspice
Mix the ingredients and form into 4 patties. Grill over low heat until crispy on both sides turning once. Serve topped with a slice of tomato and, optionally spinach leaves or chopped Romaine.

Salmon Burgers: Serves 4
1 lb. salmon-canned or frozen fillets
1 egg
1 cup cracker crumbs
1 Tbs. lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste
If using canned salmon, pick any skin and bones out. I prefer using the frozen fillets available in packages in most stores. Allowing one fillet per serving, poach the fish about 8 min. cool and flake. Mix all the ingredients and form into 4 patties and grill over medium heat about 5 min. per side until browned. Serve with Dill Sauce:
½ cup sour cream
¾ cup mayonnaise
1 Tbs. dried dill weed
Mix the ingredients until smooth and chill at least 2 hours before serving.

Jul 15

THE ULTIMATE ICE CREAM TREAT-THE SODA

A few years ago, I wrote one of my most popular posts about that most iconic of ice cream treats, the ice cream soda. At one time, sodas were the epitome of ice cream confections. They are easily and quickly made, actually built, and always served at once. Unfortunately, that was probably part of their downfall. They couldn’t be made ahead and poured from a spigot for the ‘fast food’ trade. The ice cream soda disappeared with soda fountains and the white capped ‘jerks’ who manned them.

However, all homes have freezers now, ice cream is available in stores, as is a wide range of syrups. Above all, people are interested in preparing foods. There is no reason not to reinvent the ice cream soda, in a whole new variety of flavors and enjoy them once again.

So in memory of the ice cream soda, and in hopes of hastening its return, I’m re-printing my post of June 28, 2018 rather than re-writing it because I couldn’t say it any better now than I did then.

“HEY REMEMBER ICE CREAM SODAS?

I got one of those ‘Do you remember?’ Facebook messages yesterday, about soda fountains. I don’t remember them in their hay day, when Soda Jerks made coke by the glass from syrup and seltzer, but I do remember the iconic Ice Cream Soda. Nowadays, the only way we sip ice cream through a straw is with milk shakes. I like shakes but most are made from a prepared mix, not from scratch by blending ice cream, syrup and milk to a froth, as they used to be.

Sadly, sodas seem to have disappeared from popularity along with the fountains. The Ice Cream Soda was a special treat, built by hand, opulent, gleaming and overflowing the glass, served with an ice tea spoon and a straw, it took time to eat. It offered contrasts in taste and texture down to the last drop, and left you feeling satisfied, not just filled.

It always seemed the ideal dish for the Fourth of July, as appropriate to the holiday as pumpkin pie to Thanksgiving. My association is also linked to childhood memories. My Aunt and Cousin always arrived July 1^st for the summer and every Friday night, they, my Grandmother, my Mother and I went to the movies and afterward to a popular ice cream parlor for sodas. Nothing tasted so good as the soda on that first Friday, which was always within a few days of the 4^th.

I can still remember the choices. My cousin and I stood by our usuals, chocolate for me, strawberry for her, but the women varied their orders regularly. Grandmother liked all vanilla, or asked for peach ice cream or one scoop peach and one strawberry. My Aunt picked a chocolate soda with a ripple ice cream, fudge, caramel or peanut, because she liked the taste tweaks as she ate. My Mother chose a chocolate soda with coffee, pistachio or mint chip ice cream, creating different flavors.

Every so often, at this time of year, I used wax nostalgic and make sodas for my kids and their friends, but mine didn’t generously overflow. I wasn’t into cleaning dippy messes and something else was missing. The kids loved them and were always happy I made them, but to children used to soft-serve cones and take-out shakes everywhere, to whom an ‘ice cream fix’ was opening the freezer door, the ‘special’ magic wasn’t there.

I really would like to see the Ice Cream Soda make a comeback. Anyone can make one. All they need is an ice cream scoop and the flavor options are limitless. If my relatives could consider 11 combinations normal in those conservative food years, when Howard Johnson’s 28 flavors was thought exotic, imagine what could be concocted today. Moreover, it’s easy to create new ones with home machines.

There are also many favors of syrups in the markets now. Additionally, we may not be the basic ’from scratch’ cooks our grandmothers were, but we are adept at accessorizing our dishes and that includes making syrups. I make coffee syrup frequently for Tiramisu. Simple syrup is equally easy and can be flavored with pureed fruit and/or extracts. Lemon curd is available and it’s always possible to turn to old standbys like maple syrup or butterscotch sauce to improvise.

Then there’s the huge variety of flavored seltzers in markets today, white grape, peach, raspberry, lime to name just a few. They can provide interesting contrasts in tastes as well. Using flavored soda isn’t a novel idea either. The famous ‘Brown Cow’ was chocolate syrup, vanilla ice cream and coke.

Which brings me to the ‘kissing cousin’ of the ice cream soda, the Float; simpler than the soda, it’s simply a soda pop, originally, I think, root beer, or other carbonated beverage even beer and ale, poured over a scoop of ice cream. Does anyone still remember root beer? Apparently, however, floats aren’t such dinosaurs as ice cream sodas. Guinness features one made with ale in its current recipe book.

So here’s an idea. July 4th is this week. Why not celebrate a truly American holiday by remembering a traditional American drink? You can even make a party of it, kinda like a sundae party, by offering different ice creams, a variety of seltzers and syrups, even some toppings, whipped cream, cherries, jimmies. Line up the options and let people make their own. It doesn’t have to be a large group, in fact smaller is better, but it is festive.

Just one tip; in choosing the ice cream for a soda, think twice about varieties with larger add-ins, like nuts and candy. They don’t fit in a straw, or worse, clog it, making eating difficult. I wouldn’t advise cookie cough either, not just for that reason, but the soda will partially dissolve it and, being heavy, it will sink, leaving a gummy mass in the bottom of the glass.

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Happy Sipping and Slurping!!

RECIPES

Basic Ice Cream Soda Recipe:

Single serving
20 oz. glass
3 Tbs. flavored syrup or + to taste
2 scoops of ice cream
Chilled club soda, seltzer water (Not sparkling mineral water) or other carbonated drink, cola, ginger ale or other pale soda pop.
Pour the syrup into the bottom of the glass; add about of 1 oz. soda and 1 scoop of ice cream. Stir gently around the sides of the ice cream lifting the syrup up around the scoop. Slowly add more soda to fill the glass ¾, mixing the contents gently as you pour. Add the other scoop of ice cream, and fill the glass with the soda water, creating bubbles.

Basic Ice cream Float:

Single serving
20 oz. glass
1 scoop ice cream
Carbonated beverage, including beer or ale.
Fill the glass about ½ full with the liquid, add the ice cream and then pour over the liquid to fill.

Simple Syrup:
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
Combine and heat, stirring, until sugar dissolves. If it seems thin, cook to evaporate water until desired consistency.

Brown Simple Syrup:
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup water
Follow above directions.

Coffee Syrup:
Method 1) Make either above syrup with strong coffee in place of water
Method 2) Add 1 Tbs. or to taste, instant coffee as you make it. I like Instant Espresso for flavor depth.

Vanilla Syrup:
While cooking simple syrup add from 2-3 tsp. or more vanilla to taste. This amount will also be determined by whether pure extract or imitation is used. The main thing is not to let it dilute the syrup recipe, so the length of cooking time will depend on the degree the fluid needs reducing to achieve the right consistency.

Fresh Fruit Syrups:

Examples of how fresh fruits can be used. Always store chilled. Traditionally these directions would have included straining, but I like the rustic appearance of a rougher texture.
Strawberry
Marinate sliced berries in sugar as for shortcake topping, then puree.
Peach
Method 1) about ½ cup peeled, sliced fruit and 1Tbs. simple syrup, or to consistency, pureed
Method 2) Roasted peach half(halves-depending on quantity wanted) pureed with simple syrup, if needed. Gives a more intense flavor

Blueberry
½ cup blueberries and 1+? Tbs. simple syrup microwaved at 1 min. intervals for 3 min. or until soft, then pureed.

Feel free to experiment—perhaps chopped apple, with cinnamon treated as blueberries or plums substituted for peaches. A few drops of liqueur or extract or a pinch of spice can add to the taste as well.”

Jul 1

EASY RED, WHITE AND BLUE DESSERTS

The 4^th of July is more associated with fireworks than food, but ever since the Berry Flag Cake was introduced, there’s been an interest in red, white and blue desserts. Of course other factors are that it is berry season and it’s always fun to experiment with ways to use fresh produce, especially when that produce conveniently combines into the appropriate patriotically colored presentations. I’ve written posts on the subject on June 29, 2017 and June 28, 2020. The last post has more elaborate recipes for entertaining.

This year, with socializing just returning to normal and most gatherings probably casual and/or impromptu, I thought it might be fun to look at some of the easiest and quickest to make of the 4^th of July desserts. Things that capture the holiday mood without much effort and, of course, befitting the season, are cold.

The simplest recipe is a mixture of blueberries, raspberries and/or sliced strawberries topped with whipped cream or scattered over a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Blueberries scattered over strawberry ice cream or raspberry sherbet, topped with whipped cream will do equally well. If you’re planning to eat away from home, say at a picnic, then the berries can travel in a container, along with a can of whipped cream or topping, in an ice chest. For serving, a package of shortcake rounds from the market, or other pastry cups will do. My favorite are cups made from wonton wraps.

Wrapper Fruit Cups: Makes 12 cups
24 Wonton Wrappers
2 cups raspberries, blackberries, blueberries or strawberries sliced
2 Tbs. melted butter
Cooking oil
Lightly oil the inside of each muffin cup in two 6 cup pans. Lay one wonton wrapper on a diagonal in each cup and lightly butter it. Butter the remaining 12 wrappers and lay them on top of the first in the cups on an opposite diagonal making sure the points form sides to the cups. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven for 10 min. Cool and remove from pans.

For a slightly more elegant presentation, layer the berries and the topping in glasses or goblets, ending with the topping. To add body, sprinkle cookie crumbs, flavor optional, on the topping between the layers. This can be made into an English Trifle for a crowd, by using a glass bowl and substituting a pound or angel food cake in 1 inch cubes for the cookie crumbs, beating (1) 4oz. package of vanilla or coconut pudding mix with 1 ½ cups cold milk for 2 min. then stirring in 1 ½ cups whipped topping from a 2 cup tub and layering that with the cake and berries. Finish with the reserved ½ cup topping.

Slices of pound or angel food cake make great bases for a la Mode desserts. Incidentally, both toast well, if you want an added flair. Simply put a slice on a plate, top with ice cream and berries. Again, for a more elegant, but easy presentation for a crowd this recipe is the answer.

Easy Berry Cake: Serves 4-6
1 purchased pound cake
8 oz. tub of Whipped Topping
1pt. box of strawberries
1pt. box blueberries
Save several nice strawberries and blueberries for decoration. Put the blueberries to the side. Slice the rest of the strawberries and sprinkle with sugar. Allow to rest for a few hours for the juice to extract itself. Just before serving, cut the cake into 3 layers. Spread first with 1/3^rd of the whipped topping, spoon ½ the sliced strawberries over it allowing the juice to drip down the sides, sprinkle with some blueberries. Repeat with 2^nd layer. Finish with 3^rd layer topped with the rest of the frosting and garnished with the reserved berries. Can be made an hour or so ahead. Keep chilled and garnish just before serving.

Another easy cake, which travels well and is served from the pan, is a:

Crumble or Dump Cake: Serves 8-10

2 cans pie filling—of choice*-For this occasion, use blueberry and strawberry or cherry

1 box cake mix—to fit the above choice-for this choose a white cake

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½ cup butter – melted

1 tsp. ground cinnamon

2 Tbs. sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Pour pie filling into a 9×13 inch pan. Sprinkle cake mix over. Drizzle with melted butter. Top with sprinkled sugar and cinnamon. DO NOT STIR. Bake for 30 min or until light brown Serve warm or cold, topped with ice cream or whipped topping.

*NOTE: Fresh berries can be substituted if tossed with cornstarch and sugar as directed under pies above and simmered until the juice renders and thickens. Then proceed as above

Two desserts which require more time but are still easy to make and can be ready a day or so in advance are:

Summer Berry Pudding – Serves 4-6
2 lbs. mixed berries-strawberries sliced if large
8 oz. raspberries
¾ cup sugar
8 slices white bread
Topping of choice to serve
Cut the crusts off the bread and use it to line the bottom and sides of a 4 ½ cup. bowl, making sure there are no gaps between slices. Bring the fruit and the sugar to a boil, lower heat and simmer for about 8 min stirring once. Spoon the fruit into the lined bowl, add in as much juice as it will hold, making sure some gets around the sides of the bowl. Cover the top of the bowl with the remaining bread and place in a pan to catch juice overflow. Put a plate on top of the bowl and weigh it down with cans. Refrigerate overnight. Puree the 8 oz. raspberries with enough of the remaining berry juice.to sauce constancy. Strain and chill. When ready to serve, unmold the pudding on a serving plate, pour some sauce over, and pass the rest. Garnish with whipped cream. Serve in slices

Angel Berry Nest: Serves 6-8
3 egg whites
1 cup sugar
1 Tbs. flour
1 Tbs. cornstarch
1 tsp. vanilla or almond flavoring.
2 drops of white or cider vinegar
Beat the egg whites into peaks, adding the vinegar to temper them half way through, then add the
flour and the cornstarch, finally the sugar in 3 parts while beating until stiff glossy peaks form. Draw an 8 or 9 inch circle on parchment or waxed paper. Put the paper on a cookie sheet and fill the circle, with the beaten whites, using the back of a fork to indent the center and raise the sides to form a nest. Bake at 250 deg. for 60 min. Leave in oven for 30 min. then cool on a wire rack and store airtight for a week or more. To serve, fill the center with sliced fresh fruit or berries.

And finally two favorites of mine

Lilly’s Ice Cream Cake: Serves 8-10 This was devised when my daughter wanted to make a cake for her Dad. I forgot to prepare the pans and forcing it free broke it in chunks. Fortunately, I had a ½ gal. ice cream intended to go with the cake and was able to stem the tears with this recipe solution. It was not only a happy ending, but became a family favorite. For the 4^th a red velvet cake, vanilla ice cream and blueberry sauce*would be perfect.
1 box of cake mix, cooked according to directions, cooled and removed from the pan(s)
½ gal—Or 1.5 qt. container ice cream.
Bake the cake according to box directions, remove from pans and cool
Soften ice cream to consistency of whipped topping.
Rinse bowl or mold with water and shake out excess but do not dry. The film of water freezes and forms a protective coating on the container that makes it easier to unmold the finished dessert.
Smear a dollop of softened ice cream over the bottom of a 2 ½ quart freezer proof mold or large round, deep mixing bowl. If it has a decorative top be sure to fill it all in. Then begin to fit chunks of the cake into the mold rather like pieces in a jigsaw puzzle. Be sure to separate the chunks of cake and the cake pieces from the sides of the mold with enough ice cream that they don’t stick together or become exposed when the dessert is unmolded.
Also, have a thick enough layer of ice cream on the bottom of the mold to form a firm base when plated for serving. Both cake and ice cream should be used up.
Freeze the mold for several hours or overnight.
Remove from freezer and dip the mold in a larger bowl, or pan, of hot water, for the count of ten (10). Cover the bottom with a serving plate and invert to unmold.
Serve at once or store in the freezer until needed.
Pass any appropriate toppings: whipped cream, wet nuts, sauce, fruit etc. on the side.
*Berry Topping: Yield about 1¼ cups
(1) 10 oz. pkg. frozen berries of choice in syrup-thawed
¼ cup jelly or jam made from chosen berries OR equal amount apple, mixed fruit or red currant.*
1 Tbs. cornstarch
Drain 2/3 cup syrup from berries, adding water, juice or ginger ale to make up the difference if there isn’t enough syrup. Combine syrup, jam and cornstarch in a saucepan and cook over low heat until cornstarch is dissolved and mixture thickens. Remove from heat, stir in berries and chill until serving.

Fruit Pizza: Serves 8-10
Make dough as instructed below*
If buying; purchase a roll of sugar cookie dough, not pie dough. Roll dough to fit a pizza pan, prick several times with a fork and bake as for cookies, 350 degrees for 10 to 12 min. until lightly browned, or as directions on package state.
Cool completely in pan.
*Dough
1 ½ cups flour
½ cup sugar
2/3 cup shortening
3 Tbs. + ICE water
Mix flour and sugar. Cut in shortening until it resembles peas then add water as needed to form a firm ball of dough. Chill 0 min. then roll to fit a pizza pan or to a 12 inch round.
Assembly
1 ½ lb. fresh fruit–cut in slices if necessary-exact amount depends on choice of fruit
¼ cup clear jelly –more if needed-in complimentary flavor-apple is and current are general choices
1 Tbs. water per ¼ cup jelly*
Decoratively arrange raw fruit over the crust. My favorite is a combination of strawberries and blueberries, but kiwi and peach slices work, as well as do many others. Make glaze by melting jelly in water over low heat… Boil until clear and spoon over the fruit. Chill until completely set. Optionally pass whipped cream.
*NOTE: For a thicker glaze dissolve ¼ tsp. cornstarch in 1 Tbs. water per ½ cup jelly, which is the amount I use for one of these pizzas.

Jun 17

DRESSING – THE SALAD’S VOICE

Ingredients, of course make the salad, but the dressing makes it sing. Best of all it can sing in different keys, depending on the choice of dressing. With warm weather approaching, salad meals are increasingly popular and the ability to make your own dressing, rather than depending on commercial brands, is like arranging the song to suit your mood. This is especially true of Combined Salads (see postings for May 27 2015 and April 8, 2021), which are always individual to the meal and the dressings frequently include elements of the ingredients, like fruit juice or broth.

But first, let’s talk a bit about the commercial products available. Include the generic, ethnic, gourmet, as well as all brand names, and it seems an endless number of flavor varieties to choose from. So if there’s something for everyone, why make your own? Well, the commercial brands all contain artificial ingredients, preservatives, and generally a high amount of salt, sugar and fat. Making them yourself gives you control over these things. Also, commercial dressings are usually close to the flavor ceiling. They won’t accept any taste adjustments .you might want to make. Then too, the cost is rising, and basic, simple dressing ingredients are found in most homes, especially those for vinaigrettes. Why pay to have several bottles open, when you can make them fresh as needed using items you keep in supply?

Please understand I’m not going totally DIY on salad dressings. Many can’t be easily duplicated without a specific flavoring agent, cheese dressings for example. It’s senseless to buy such products and only use a fraction, just as it is to buy several ingredients in an attempt to recreate a product you like. However, for the everyday salad side, snack or light meal, making the dressing is easy, economical and fun. Most entrée salad recipes include directions for a specific dressing, Cobb and Nicoise Salads for example, so you probably already have experience in making a dressing.

In most countries, the ingredients of a salad determine its dressing and a “house” salad is dressed as the chef decrees. Americans expect to be offered a selection of dressings especially for a side or light meal salad. If having this option appeals to you, make several vinaigrettes with different infusions to use alone or have ready to add other ingredients to make more complex dressings. As always, the possibilities are endless. Just use your imagination.

Following are basic vinaigrette directions and some useful variations as well as recipes for other, delicious dressings that can be easily made when wanted. Also, don’t forget that often dressings can double as marinades or basting sauces. Simply reserve enough to dress the greens, use the rest to flavor the meat.

RECIPES
Vinaigrettes

Basic Vinaigrette
The fundamental ratio is 1 part vinegar to 3 parts oil, with salt and pepper to taste. Dissolve seasonings in vinegar. If making in a jar, add the oil in 3 parts, shaking between. If using a blender or a bowl add oil in a thin stream with machine running or constantly stirring.
To Smooth: Shake in a jar with an ice cube until chilled. Discard ice.

• To Emulsify: Oil and vinegar will separate. To prevent this add a small amount of powdered mustard, paprika or finely ground nuts. According to Cook’s Magazine, 1 Tbs. molasses works too.

A Simple Dressing With Many Uses All recipes yield about ¾ cup
Double basic proportions of oil and vinegar*
1 small shallot or 1/3 a small onion – minced
½ garlic clove- minced
½ tsp. each salt, pepper and Dijon mustard

OPTIONAL 1-2 tsp. dried herbs of choice-for example an Italian blend
Prepare dressing as directed above.
*Infused oil and/or vinegar will affect flavor as will using different types of vinegar.
• To infuse oil or vinegar steep herb fronds, pieces of spices, like ginger, or small vegetables such as garlic cloves or peppers in the liquid until the desired flavor is achieved
• For Tomato Italian vinaigrette use red wine vinegar, substitute 2Tbs.tomato puree for the mustard and add 2 tsp . dried basil or 1 Tbs. chopped fresh
• For Balsamic vinaigrette increase the vinegar by 1 Tbs. and replace mustard with lemon
• For Citrus vinaigrette replace the vinegar with ¼ cup fresh lemon or lime juice and add 1 tsp. of the fruit’s zest.
• For Greek vinaigrette make the Citrus dressing with lemon adding ¼ cup crumbled Feta cheese and 3 Tbs. each chopped mint and Kalamata olives. Shake well.
• For French dressing replace ½ the vinegar with lemon juice and add 1/8th tsp. paprika—the paprika will emulsify the dressing. Recommend smoothing with ice.
• For using up Leftovers for each Tbs. of mayonnaise or mustard left in a jar add ¼ cup EACH oil and wine vinegar, or lemon juice, ½ garlic clove-minced-and 1 tsp. dried mixed herbs, salt and pepper to taste.
• For Creamy vinaigrette: Use white wine or cider vinegar. After adding oil mix in 1-2 Tbs. chopped fresh herbs then ¼ cup heavy cream. Store chilled.
• For Low-Fat vinaigrette replace 1/3 oil with juice, broth, fruit, vegetable puree or tea which lowers the acidity of the vinegar. Reducing the oil content further thins the liquid too much, requiring the addition of gelatin or cornstarch to make the dressing coat.

Basic Low-Fat Vinaigrette
¼ cup EACH vinegar and broth or juice
2 Tbs. oil
½ tsp. EACH honey, salt and pepper
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
Combine ingredients in a jar and shake well until blended
Other Easy DIY Dressings All yield about ¾ cup

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French Roquefort Dressing
¼ cup crumbled Roquefort, Blue, Gorgonzola or Stilton cheese
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice—1 Tbs. in reserved depending on taste preference.
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
Mash, whip, shake and/or blend the ingredients, until the cheese is dissolved in the liquid. Store chilled and shake well before using. This is best over a softer lettuce such as Bibb, or red or green leaf.

Asian Peanut Dressing
3 Tbs. rice vinegar
1 tsp. EACH soy sauce and chopped ginger or 1/2 tsp. powdered ginger
½ tsp. chopped garlic or ¼ tsp. garlic powder
Pinch EACH ground cumin and coriander
¼ small onion chopped
1 Tbs. EACH creamy peanut butter and oil
¼ tsp. hot pepper sauce –optional
Place all ingredients in a jar and shake until well combined

Yogurt-Fruit Dressing: Makes3/4cup
½ cup plain yogurt
1/3 cup blended fresh fruit of choice
1 Tbs. lemon or lime juice-depending on fruit used
1 tsp. EACH honey and Dijon mustard
Puree all ingredients until smooth. Store chilled

Raspberry-Wine Dressing: Makes 1 ¼ cups
1 cup fresh or dry pack frozen raspberries
1/3 cup Merlot
1/3 cup oil
1 sliced shallot
2 Tbs. red wine vinegar
2 tsp. honey
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 Tbs. sour cream—optional
Puree all ingredients until smooth. Store chilled.

Creamy Dressings: Each yields about 11/2 cups

Basic Dressing Recipe
To make these dressings low-fat, use low-fat ingredients. To lower fat content further replace1/2 mayonnaise with ½ avocado pureed.
2/3 cup mayonnaise
1/3 cup sour cream
2Tbs. white wine vinegar
1tsp. EACH Worcestershire Sauce and Dijon mustard
¼ tsp. cracked pepper
Whisk or blend all ingredients. Store chilled.

• For Ranch Dressing substitute cider vinegar. Add ½ cup shredded carrots, 1Tbs. chopped parsley, ½ tsp. EACH sugar, celery flakes and celery seeds and onion powder.
• For Green Goddess Add ½ clove garlic crushed and 3 Tbs. EACH chopped scallions and parsley
• For Russian add 1/3 cup chili sauce, 2 Tbs. EACH chopped pimento OR pepper, and celery and another tsp. Worcestershire Sauce
• For Creamy Italian add 1 tsp. roasted garlic, 2 Tbs. minced onion, ½ tsp. EACH dried oregano and basil, or ¼ cup of EACH chopped fresh. Shake or whisk well.

These are just the basic dressing recipes, but there are enough variations included to give you a springboard to finding ways to individualizing them or moving on to create your own. Have fun and Happy Salad Days ahead.

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