Posts from the ‘Recipes’ Category

Apr 8

COMBINED SALAD DINNERS

With warmer weather, we no longer want the hearty warming dishes of winter and, though we crave lighter foods and more temperate recipes, we aren’t quite ready for the cold entrees of summer either. For several years at this time,(see posts for 7/6/17, 6/8/17 , 1/26/17, 8/12/15) I’ve been enjoying a newer type of dinner salad which is more casual than classic, composed dinner salads, like Cobb and Nicoise, yet more nutritious than buffed-up sides, like Caesar with chicken or shrimp.

Technically, these renditions are in the ‘combined salads’ category, without claiming that fad diet’s ulterior motive of specific health or cosmetic benefits. They simply provide a balanced, nutritious, tasty meal. However, their current popularity is due in large to the Millennial’s demand for top quality foods. If higher prices, say for grass-fed beef, limits them to smaller quantities, then they adjust the protein value of the meal with the addition of nuts, seeds, grains or cheese, but they insist on the best ingredients.

This new type of dinner salad is an easily constructed entrée, especially with fresh produce, differing in preparation and presentation to maintain the identity of those ingredients. They’re cut in larger pieces, not diced, to indicate when possible the shape of the whole and arranged in layers. The flavor is a medley of individual bites of contrasting or complimentary tastes, rather than a single one unifying the whole dish. Presentations aren’t scripted. A photo might be captioned “Suggested Appearance” not “Approved Plating”. Fortunately, with fresh produce always available, healthy combined salads can be enjoyed all year.

There’s also a fun aspect to these salads because the recipes are ‘open.’ Growing familiarity not just with different cuisines and their ingredients, but experimenting with those ingredients and finding new uses for them has resulted in ‘Fusion Cuisines’ and made cooking an eating adventure, and combined salads can easily fit into the ‘Fusion’ category.

Ingredients crossing cuisines isn’t new, herbs and spices like cilantro and ginger have figured in both Eastern and Western ones for centuries. Stone fruits, native to Asia, are the base for traditional recipes in many cuisines. What is new is these products are being used in a wider variety of ways. Realizing that tomatoes, avocados and olives are fruits, accepted in serious salads for years, we are now letting other fruits, long favored as accompaniments to meat, join them and not just as accents, but as key players.

The changed construction of combined salads requires a change in dressings. Heavy ones are out, lighter ones which complement the flavors are preferred and a drizzle of oil subtly unites those flavors but DIY is often recommended. Depending on the contents, many regular types of vinaigrette are a bit strong because fruits are acidic themselves. The touch of acid zing in the dressing is best delivered by the addition of citrus juice. Lemon and lime are regulars, but orange, grapefruit and other juices are often appropriate. If a creamy one is called for it will be based on sour cream or yogurt.

If I’m sautéing the meat, I frequently use the pan juice as dressing base or a bit of broth or the juice of a fruit ingredient, adding oil, citrus juice and/or zest and more of the herbs of the dish. Fresh herbs are another plus, the leaves used as actual ingredients, can really add bulk. One herb I’ve come to depend on in all salads is mint. Its flavor merges with anything and adds zip, losing its own distinct identity.

As to compiling the salads themselves, aside from healthy and fresh, nearly anything goes. Mandolins make slicing a breeze, and cross sections of the vegetables form their own bedding, so lettuces can be torn and sprinkled among the other items, adding color. Carrots and celery aren’t as visible, red and green onions replace white ones but bell peppers and tomatoes are still regulars, joined by fennel, zucchini and radishes. I use any vegetables I have, green beans, broccoli, cauliflower and fruits, especially the stone ones and berries, fresh in season, but frozen or dried when not. In winter, to make the salads more fortifying, I add wheat pasta but smaller sizes or broken strands, brown or wild rice and I like to grill slices of the fresh citrus fruits available then.

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The important thing to remember is that everything is tailor-made to each meal and unless recorded in detail can be replicated but not repeated. Part of the emphasis on freshness, and fun of these meals is the fact that they are unique to the moment and following guidelines is much easier than the demands of a specific recipe. The only way to ‘mess-up’ is to over season the dressing but if you proceed cautiously, consistently tasting you’ll be fine and soon it becomes second nature to whip up a meal in no time.

Also remember that grains, nuts and seeds are vital to maintaining the nutritional values of combined salads. For the complete run-down on grains, the types, textures, flavors and best uses go to the post for Sept. 21, 2017, Using Grains the New Way. For information on buying nuts the post, Defining Organics and Other Natural Food Terms, March 2, 2017, may be of help. Choosing the right greens, for taste, texture and pairing with the other ingredients in a given salad see How to Choose the Right Lettuce for a Salad June 1. 2017.

RECIPES

Grilled Steak Salad: Serves 4
1-1 ½ lb . boneless sirloin or top round
2small Japanese eggplants
3 zucchini
2 red bell peppers
2 medium onions
4 oz. button mushroom caps
2 Tbs. lemon juice
2 Tbs. oil
2 oz. snow pea or bean sprouts–optional
1 small head green leaf lettuce
1 cup cooked wild rice
¼ cup olive oil
2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
½ cup fresh basil leaves sliced thin
Trim meat of fat. Combine juice and oil and marinate beef at least 1 hr. Slice eggplant and lay flat, covered in salt until it ‘sweats’, about 15 min. Rinse well and pat dry. Meanwhile slice zucchini into 1 inch pieces, peppers into ¾ inch strips and onions into thick rings, halve rings and large mushroom caps. Remove beef from marinade, add vegetables and marinate at least 30 min. at room temperature, tossing often. Grill meat on a lightly greased rack about 2 min. on each side to sear. Remove to cooler side of grill and cook an additional 2 min. per side for medium rare. Cool on a plate and slice thinly. Drain vegetables and grill in batches until golden and crisp tender, about 5 min . per batch. Combine balsamic and oil in a bottle and shake well. Arrange meat slices around one edge of each plate. Fill the rest of the plate with torn lettuce leaves topped with the vegetables tossed with the rice. Drizzle with the dressing and garnish with the sprouts, if using, and basil.
This can be served hot as made, or done ahead with the lettuce, meat and garnishes chilled, while the rest is held at room temperature. The meat and vegetables can also be cooked under the broiler.

Shrimp-Avocado Salad: Serves 4
1 lb. cooked large shrimp
2 avocados-peeled, each half cut in 4 slices
(1) 8oz. bag spinach leaves
1 small cucumber thinly sliced
2 large oranges – sections removed and ½ tsp. grated peel
2 oz. watercress
1 cup cooked quinoa
3 Tbs. olive oil
1Tbs.lemon juice
1 ½ Tbs. orange juice
¼ tsp. honey
1 tsp. chopped parsley
Place the last 5 ingredients in a jar and shake well to make the dressing. Arrange the spinach on plates or a large platter, top with watercress, tossed with the quinoa, if using, then onion rings . Place the avocado slices and orange segments in a circle and pile the shrimp in the center. Drizzle with the dressing and garnish with the zested orange peel.
This salad should be served as made, but all the components can be prepped ahead and kept chilled.

Asian Chicken Salad: Serves 4
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, or 1 whole chicken in 4 parts.
1 tsp. grated ginger root
2 Tbs. soy sauce
1 large clove garlic-crushed
2 Tb. oil –to lightly grease the grill or sauté indoors
1 cup cooked short grain brown rice
1 avocado-peeled and sliced
3 scallions sliced diagonally
1 1/2 oz. snow peas sliced diagonally
1 head of red leaf lettuce
¼ cup Thai Sweet Chili Sauce
2 Tbs. rice wine vinegar
2 Tbs. oil
¼ cup chopped dry roasted peanuts or pistachios
Marinate the chicken in the next 3 ingredients at least 3 hours or overnight. Grill the chicken or sauté in oil, drain and cool. Place the cooked rice in the used pan or a lightly oiled one, spread it out and allow to crisp in the bottom. Remove pan from heat. Quickly blanch snow peas. Place Chili sauce, 2 Tbs. vinegar and 2 Tbs. oil in a jar and shake to make dressing. Place the chicken pieces around one side of a platter or each plate . Place pieces of the ‘rice cake’ around the opposite one and fill the center of the platter or plate with the torn lettuce leaves, top with the snow peas, avocado slices and scallion. Drizzle with the dressing and garnish with the nuts.
This too can be served hot as made or prepped ahead and the ingredients, except the nuts, kept chilled, but the flavor of the meat is best at room temperature or above.

Lamb Salad with Mint: Serves 4
1-1 ½ lb. boneless lamb—a small rolled leg or tenderloin are best*
1 large head red leaf lettuce
3 scallions sliced diagonally
4 oz. grape tomatoes- halved
1 cup cooked barley–optional
¼ cup olive oil
½ tsp. Dijon mustard
1 Tbs. white wine vinegar
1 Tbs. chopped mint + extra for garnish
½ tsp. sugar
4 oz. crumbled Feta cheese
1 Tbs. oil
¼ cup chopped, toasted pecans or cashews
Combine olive oil, vinegar, mustard, sugar and mint in a jar, add barley, if using, and shake well.
Trim meat well and sauté over medium heat in 1 Tbs. oil until medium rare, about 8 min., turning often, or grill on a lightly oiled rack. Cool meat, thinly slice diagonally and tent until ready to serve . Place the sliced lamb around a platter or plates. Tear the lettuce and toss with tomatoes, scallions and barley with dressing and fill the remainder of the plates. Top with cheese, and garnish with extra mint and nuts.
This like the other dinners can be stored, chilled separately until ready to be served or served warm.
*Note: Very thinly sliced rib chops can be used as well. 12 chops =2 ½ lbs. will yield the same amount of meat as the recipe states, allowing for the weight of the bones. The same cooking directions apply.

Ham and Cabbage: Serves 4—A wonderful ‘special event’ presentation with a baked ham, the salad in a large bowl and the garnishes passed on the side.
1 – 1 ½ lb. Deli ham sliced ¼ inch thick—or freshly carved from a baked ham
8 oz. red cabbage- shredded
8 oz. green cabbage-shredded
2 baked medium sized yams, cooled and torn in bite size pieces
4 scallions thinly sliced
1/3 cup + 1 Tbs. olive oil
3 Tbs. white wine vinegar
½ tsp. Dijon mustard
¼ tsp. sugar
1 Tbs. caraway seeds-divided 1 tsp.in reserve
Combine the last 5 ingredients in a jar and shake to make a dressing . Allow flavors to meld for several hours. The yams can be cooked in a microwave until tender and torn when cool. Toss the yams and cabbage with the dressing. Place in a bowl and garnish with the reserved seeds. Slice the ham at table and pass the salad with extra caraway seeds on the side.
Alternatively, line one side of each plate with sliced ham and fill the rest of the space with the cabbage mix. Garnish with the caraway seeds.

Sweet and Sour Pork Salad: Serves 4
1- 1 ½ lb. pork tenderloin*
2 Tbs. soy sauce
1 Tbs. warm honey

1 Tbs. dry sherry
1 Tbs. oil
8 oz. Chinese cabbage-shredded
1 carrot- shredded with a vegetable peeler
3 scallions thinly sliced diagonally
4 red radishes—thinly sliced
½ cup Bulgur
(1) 15 oz. can pineapple rings-drained, juice reserved
2 Tbs. oil
¼ cup white wine vinegar
1 tsp. brown sugar
1 Tbs. Wasabi cashews if available or toasted chopped walnuts
Marinate the meat in the next 3 ingredients overnight. Saute pork in the 1 Tbs. oil, basting with the marinade, until just done, about 10 min. or grill on a lightly oiled rack; cool, thinly slice and tent . Meanwhile, measure reserved juice minus 1 Tbs. and add water to make 1 cup. Place ½ cup Bulgar in the juice and allow to sit for 30 min. Combine vinegar, 2 Tbs. oil, 1 Tbs. juice and brown sugar in a jar and shake to make a dressing. Toss the vegetables with the Bulgar. Plate the meat slices around the edge of a plate, or to one side, fill the center with the cabbage mix and lay the pineapple rings decoratively on top. Drizzle with the dressing. Garnish with the nuts if using.
*NOTE: Very thin, boneless center-cut chops will do, in the same weight as stated above. The same cooking directions apply.
Bourbon Pork Salad: Serves 4
1 lb. pork tenderloin
1 large sweet potato-diced
1 cup cooked lentils
2 large fresh peaches, nectarines or 6 small apricots-sliced OR (1) 15 oz. can apricots pitted, in quarters
1 onion-sliced thin
6 cups arugula-torn in bit sized pieces
1 Tbs. + oil
Salt
1 Tbs. EACH cumin ans paprika
1 clove garlic-smashed
3 Tbs. cider vinegar
2 Tbs. brown sugar
¾ cup bourbon
Position oven racks in upper and lower thirds of oven and preheat to 400 deg. Toss potato with oil, lightly salt and place in a single layer on a cookie sheet. Combine spices, garlic, ½ tsp. salt and 1 Tbs. sugar. Lightly oil the meat and rub with spice mix, place on a foil-lined baking sheet . Roast potatoes on upper oven rack about 30 min, until golden and pork on lower one until coked through about 20 min. Meanwhile, heat reserved sugar and bourbon in a small pan to dissolve sugar, then boil for about 3 min. to remove alcohol, reduce heat and add fruit for 2 min. Remove the fruit with a slotted spoon and reserve. Add vinegar and onion to the pan and allow to pickle for about 8 min. Toss lentils, arugula, potato with dressing to taste, plate top with fruit, surrounded by pork slices. Pass remaining dressing on the side.

Apr 1

SPRING PARTY DESSERTS

It’s now been a full year of pandemic ‘infected’ holidays, of canceled activities, restricted gatherings and interrupted traditions. The holidays have been difficult but as a friend recently observed, at least in winter there are specific decorations, like a tree, and music to infuse spirit. She hopes for an early, sunny spring to get her in the mood, because her Easter ‘outfit’ will be slacks instead of jeans and her dinner guests, as with the other holidays this year, will be the household.

Therein lies a large part of the problem. The holiday tables aren’t the ‘groaning boards’ we loved, holding large roasts and favorite casseroles, surrounded by familiar faces. The menus have had to adjust to fewer participants and less labor intensive dishes. The conversation, without fresh input, is simply daily exchange.

So it’s up to the food to light the holiday spark, to make the dinner, and hopefully, the day, special with its own pleasant memories without nostalgia. Because the spring holidays are less steeped in tradition, changing the menus, trying new dishes, even experimenting with other cuisines is more accepted. That will guarantee new memories, whether of success or failure of the recipes and provide fresh topics of conversation, at least for the day.

One of the best ways to achieve this, this spring, is to make a special dessert for the holiday dinner. Something that is glamorous, definitely not regular fare, but with a sufficiently uncomplicated recipe that anyone in the family can pitch in. It provides group activity, an anticipated shared reward, a definite topic of conversation, a special memory and, fingers crossed, a desire to repeat the experience.

I’ve written on this subject before, (see posts for April 9. 2020, May 9, 2019, May 16, 2019, April 12, 2018, and May 18, 2017.) However here are 8 spring desserts which fill the special requirements for this year. Several feature strawberries, the main seasonal fruit, but others are inspired by treats for these holidays-think chocolate –and two are appropriate colors. However all are great joint ventures requiring little cooking time and simple prep. Come on, set up a fun, family project for the holiday…..

RECIPES

Strawberry Charlotte Romanoff*: **Serves 6-8
(1) 3 oz. pkg. ladyfingers
¾ cup non-fat dry milk powder
1 cup cold water
1Tbs. unflavored gelatin
¼ cup sugar
(2) 10 oz. pkg. frozen sliced strawberries
¾ cup boiling water
Red food coloring
*3Tbs. orange liqueur – This is an option. To exercise it substitute 3Tbs.liqueur for 3 Tbs. cold water
Split ladyfingers in half lengthwise and line the sides of a buttered 2 qt. bowl. Beat ¾ cup cold water with milk powder on high until stiff about 6-8 min. Chill. Pour ¼ cup cold water over gelatin in a bowl and soak for 8 min. Place strawberries in a bowl, sprinkle with sugar and separate with a fork. Pour boiling water (minus 3 Tbs. if using liqueur) over gelatin and stir to dissolve then add liqueur if using. Pour gelatin into strawberries, mix well and chill until a small amount mounds when dropped. Fold in whipped milk and add red food coloring to taste (for a spring pink omit coloring) Fill ladyfinger lined bowl with strawberry mixture and chill several hours. Unmold on a serving plate and serve at once or keep chilled.

Raspberry Soufflé: Serve 4- From Gourmet Cooking 5 Ingredients by Deborah Anderson
(1) 10oz. pkg. frozen raspberries-thawed
5 egg whites-divided
½ cup sugar
½ cup + 2 tsp. whipping cream – chilled
2 Tbs. Chambord liqueur-(optional)
Brush the inside of (4) 3 ½ ramekins or individual soufflé dishes with some of the egg white (about 1 egg white) and coat with sugar. Blend the raspberries until smooth. Beat the egg whites until stiff then still beating add the sugar in about 3 portions at a time until glossy peaks form. Fold the eggs into the raspberries and divide mixture among prepared dishes. Bake in a preheated 375 deg. oven 13-15 mi. until puffy. Remove and top with cream beaten with liqueur until stiff. Serve at once.

White Chocolate Cheesecake Bites: Yield 25- From Gourmet Cooking 5 Ingredients by Deborah Anderson
(1) 12 0z. pkg. white chocolate chips
1 cup sugar
(2) 8 oz. pkg. cream cheese at room temperature
1 cup strawberry or raspberry jam
1 Tbs. lemon juice
Beat cheese and sugar until creamy. Melt chocolate over low heat or in microwave, stirring until smooth. Combine cheese and chocolate, blend well-mix should be smooth. Pour batter into an 8 inch pan lined with a double layer of parchment paper. Freeze until firm, cut into 25 squares, and remove to a plate with a spatula-chill. Combine jam and lemon juice over heat stirring until it reaches a boil. Remove and strain. Pour warm glaze over squares, Keep chilled until serving.

Chocolate Godiva Tart: Serves 8– From Gourmet Cooking 5 Ingredients by Deborah Anderson
CRUST-Optional a commercial 9 inch chocolate crust can be used
2 cups chocolate wafer cookies
4Tbs. butter melted
Process the cookies to crumbs and blend in the butter. Press into pie pan with fingers and bake at 400 deg. for 5-7 min. Remove and cool to harden.
FILLING
8 oz. semi-sweet chocolate divided
1 ½ cups whipping cream
3 Tbs. Godiva liqueur-chocolate sauce can be substituted
Grate 1 oz. chocolate for garnish
Heat 1 cup whipping cream to a simmer, reduce heat and add half the reserved chocolate, stirring until smooth. Repeat with remaining chocolate. When smooth and creamy, stir in liqueur. Bake in a preheated 375 deg. oven for 12-15 min. Whip remaining cream to stiff peaks and serve on top of tart garnished with chocolate shavings.

My Ice Cream Cake: **Serves 8-10- This cake can be made in many flavor and color combinations
(1) 2 1/2 quart freezer proof mold or large round, deep mixing bowl
2 Layer pans, or 1 sheet cake pan to bake the cake
1 box of cake mix, cooked according to directions, cooled and removed from the pan(s)
½ gal—Or 1.5 qt. container ice cream.
Bake the cake according to box directions, remove from pans and allow to cool, then break or cut into very large chunks. Soften ice cream to consistency of whipped topping. Rinse bowl or mold with water and shake out excess but do not dry. The film of water freezes and forms a protective coating on the container that makes it easier to unmold the finished dessert. Smear a dollop of softened ice cream over the bottom of the mold. If it has a decorative top be sure to fill it all in. Then smear a thin film of Ice cream over the insides of the mold and chill until set. Begin to fit chunks of the cake into the mold in layers, separating the layers of cake and the pieces of cake in the layers from each other and the sides of the mold with enough ice cream so that they don’t stick together or become exposed when the dessert is unmolded. Leave a thick enough layer of ice cream on the bottom of the mold to form a firm base when plated for serving. Freeze the mold for several hours or overnight. Remove from freezer and dip the mold in a larger bowl, or pan, of hot water, for the count of ten (10). Cover the bottom with a serving plate and invert to unmold. Serve at once or store in the freezer until needed.
Pass any appropriate toppings: whipped cream, wet nuts, sauce, fruit etc. on the side.

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My Key Lime Pie: Serves 8-10

(1) 9 inch baked pie shell. Home made or purchased, regular or graham cracker.

(1) 14oz can Sweetened Condensed Milk MIXED WITH

Sufficient sour cream to equal 2 cups – about 2/3 cup

1/2 cup fresh Key Lime juice

1 Tbs. lime zest
½ envelope unflavored gelatin
Whipped cream
Soften the gelatin by soaking 5 min. in the lime juice in a bowl. Combine the Condensed Milk, sour cream and lime zest in a bowl. Dissolve the gelatin by heating the lime juice in the microwave 30 sec. If it

doesn’t dissolve easily, heat it an additional 5 sec. or so, but be sure it is completely liquid before proceeding. Add the lime juice with gelatin to the bowl with the milk, sour cream and zest. Wisk well to incorporate. Pour the filling mixture into the pie shell and chill at least 2 hours until well set. Serve topped with whipped cream.

Strawberry 3-Layer Cake/Strawberry Cream Cheese Frosting: Serves 16- From The Cake Doctor by Anne Bryn

1 box plain white cake mix
1 box (3 oz. ) strawberry gelatin
1 ½ cups fresh strawberries to equal 1 cup mashed with juice
½ cup whole milk
1 cup oil-not olive
4 large eggs
1 cup frozen unsweetened , grated coconut-thawed
½ cup chopped pecans
FROSTING
1 pkg.(8 oz.) cream cheese at room temperature
(8 Tbs.) butter=1 stick-at room temperature
3 ½ cups sifted confectioners’ sugar
¾ cup fresh strawberries mashed to make ½ cup then well drained
½ cup chopped pecans
½ frozen, unsweetened, grated coconut-thawed
Grease and dust with flour (3) 9 inch cake pans. Place the first 6 cake ingredients in a bowl and mix on low 1 min. scraping down bowl sides, then mix on medium 2 min. scraping sides, until berries are well blended. Fold in coconut and pecans. Divide batter among pans and bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven 28-30 min. until cakes are light brown and start to pull away from sides. If necessary rotate on shelves half way through cooking or bake in shifts. Cool on racks 10 min. then invert onto plates and coo completely, about 30-45 min.
Beat cheese and butter on loe 30 sec. to combine. Add sugar and berries and continue on ow until well incorporated. Switch to medium and beat until frosting is light and fluffy 2-3 min. more. Fold in pecand and coconut.
Place one cake layer right side up on serving platter and frost top, cover with second layer and repeat. Top with third layer and frost top and sides. To calculate the quantity, the 2 inside layers will require about 2/5^th of the frosting. Chill until the frosting sets, about 20 min. then cover and store, chilled, for 1 week or freeze.

Strawberry Bavarian Cream Mousse: **Serves 8-10
(2) 12 oz. frozen sliced strawberries-thawed
½ cup cold water
1 ½ Tbs. unflavored gelatin
6 Tbs. sugar
1 ½ Tbs. lemon juice

1 tsp. almond extract
1 ¾ cups chilled whipping cream
Red food coloring to taste-I don’t use it preferring the light pink natural color
Sprinkle gelatin over cold water in a small bowl and allow to soften about 5 min. Place strawberries in a large bowl and blend in sugar, extract and juice. Dissolve gelatin by microwaving 30 sec. if not completely dissolved reheat it for 5 sec. or so, but be sure it is completely fluid before proceeding. Combine gelatin and berry mix stirring well to combine, Chill until mixture thickens enough to mound when dropped from a spoon. Whip half the cream at a time with chilled beaters until soft peaks form then combine it all and fold into berry mix. Add food coloring drop by drop until desired color is reached at this time, making sure it doesn’t streak. Pour into a lightly oiled (not olive oil) decorative 1 ½ qt. mold and chill until firmly set-at least 4 hr. Unmold onto a serving plate and slice to serve.

**NOTE-These desserts might benefit from the addition of a quick refrigerator-made compote of sliced fresh, strawberries, marinated with sugar until they release their juice. Passed on the side it makes a lovely, decorative, tasty garnish

Mar 25

EARLY SPRING VEGETABLES

Last week, I discussed our natural preference for lighter foods as spring arrives. One of the first things we look forward to are fresh vegetables but Nature doesn’t always run by our calendar. If winter lingers or more often if the holidays fall early, fresh produce isn’t available for special menus. That used to be a problem but, now, with air transport and flash freezing, most vegetables are in stores all year. Perhaps they’re not as young and tender as locally grown, but the taste and spirit of the season is still conveyed.

Over the years I’ve written many posts on different aspects and varieties of spring vegetables. You can check them out at these links April 12, 2012, April 19, 2013, April 21, 2014, May 17, 2014, April 9, 2015, April 23, 2015, March 31, 2016, April 6, 2016 , April 20, 2017, March 15, 2018, April 2, 2020 and March 11,2021.

Two tips on dealing with fresh or frozen vegetables at any season; first, they can always be made a bit special by preparing them in 2 quick ways. One to glaze them; boil or steam them to crisp tender, then sauté them with butter (about 1 Tbs. per pound) and appropriate seasonings until well coated and shiny. See carrots below. Two: braise them by immersing them in a flavored liquid, covering the dish and slow baking until vegetables are tender. See leeks below.

Second tip: adding herbs is the easiest way to flavor vegetables, especially in spring when herbs sre themselves, a new spring growth.

This year because the holidays run concurrently, I’m hoping the markets will be filled with lots of fresh choices, but in case the weather doesn’t cooperate, I’m going to focus on 12 cooked side dish and 1 salad recipe for 9 standby vegetables which will always deliver the desired effect in presentation and taste for spring meals.

RECIPES

Asparagus
Break off the woody part of the stems and put the spears in a microwave proof dish in one layer, if possible, no more than two, or cook in batches. Microwave on high 3 to 9 min. depending on the thickness of the stems. If marinating, put drained spears on a serving plate, pour marinade over and allow to infuse as the asparagus cools, then refrigerate or serve. If saucing, shock spears with cold water, chill them and sauce before serving or sauce and serve hot.
For Marinating: A vinaigrette of choice is best
For Saucing: A plain white sauce is good or optionally for 4 servings combine

1 cup cooled cooking water

1 Tbs. cornstarch

Lemon pepper to taste

Dissolve the cornstarch in the liquid and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly until thickened. Add seasoning to taste. For a richer sauce, add 1 beaten egg yolk to the cooled sauce and reheat, over low, stirring constantly until sauce is quite thick. Check to adjust seasoning.
Garnishes: Asparagus loves to be decorated and will accept many things: sliced or chopped roasted or fresh peppers, chopped eggs, toasted chopped nuts and seeds, anchovies, capers, herbs crumbled bacon, even breadcrumbs.

Thyme Baked Carrots: Serves 4
1 lb. carrots-small regular carrots are best for this-peeled, julienned (¼ x 3 inches)
1 cup chicken or beef stock
2 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme-parsley, marjoram or sage will also due
2 Tbs. butter
Place the vegetables in a shallow baking dish, pour the stock over, season, scatter the thyme on top and dot with butter. Bake at 350 deg. for 35-40 min. until stock is absorbed and carrots are tender. Serve warm.

Orange Glazed Carrots: Serves 6- from 500 3-Ingredient Recipes by Robert and Carol Hildebrand
1 lb. baby carrots-cleaned and sliced on an angle
2 Tbs. butter
2 oranges
½ tsp. nutmeg
Boil carrots 7-9 min. until crisp tender, drain. Zest one orange and squeeze both. Place the juice, butter, zest and nutmeg in a skillet. When butter melts, add the carrots and sauté with rest of the ingredients over low heat, stirring gently for about 2-4 min. until glazed. If making ahead, reheat gently in the microwave and garnish with parsley.

Braised Leeks: Serves 6
Leeks are prone to retain soil. To clean cut to within 1 inch of the white part, soak well and hold under running water. If some dirt is still visible, cut them in half lengthwise.
6-8 Leeks-cleaned
1 cup + chicken broth
6 Tbs. Butter
Salt
Steam the leeks in a covered pot with the broth and salt to taste until tender. Drain and melt the butter in a pan, add the leeks and cook over medium heat, turning often, until lightly colored. Check salt and serve hot with butter pored over. Garnish with parsley or dill.

Braised Fennel: Serves 6
Simply replace the leeks in the above recipe with 3-4 trimmed fennel bulbs.

Leek and Potato Bake: Serves 4
2 large leeks trimmed –equal quantity of ramps about 6 to 8
2 lb. potatoes- a more floury variety is best here – Idaho, Russet, Eastern All-Purpose
1 ½ cups light cream
6 oz. Brie cheese sliced
Trim leeks (ramps), cut across in ½ inch slices and blanch for 1 min. Pierce the potatoes and microwave for 2 min. cool and slice thin. Put half the potatoes in a shallow baking dish and spread out to the edges and cover with 2/3^rd of the leeks (ramps). Cover with the rest of the potatoes and tuck the other 1/3^rdof leeks and the cheese around and slightly under the potatoes. Pour the cream over and bake in a preheated 360 deg. oven for 1 hour until potatoes are tender. Cover with foil if the top begins to over brown.

Caramelized Shallots or Pearl Onions: Serves 4-6
1 ½ lb. shallots or pearl onions – skins peeled but root ends left on
1 Tbs. sugar
2 Tbs. butter
2 Tbs. oil
1 cup water, wine or broth
Sauté the shallots in the melted butter and the oil over medium heat until golden. Sprinkle in the sugar, toss to coat and continue to cook on low heat, until vegetables begin to glaze. Add liquid, cover and cook for 2-7 min. until vegetables are tender. Remove lid, allow steam to escape and cook until liquid evaporates and shallots are light brown and well glazed.

Green Peas, Lettuce and Scallions (Green Onions) Serves 6

1 Tbs. butter

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Salt and pepper and lemon pepper

2 heads Bibb lettuce-halved lengthwise

3 bunches scallions—roots and tough green ends trimmed

1 lb. peas- frozen or fresh

1 Tbs. oil

Salt and pepper and lemon pepper

Melt the oil in a sauce pan over low heat; gently toss the lettuce and scallions to coat well.

Sprinkle with a little salt and freshly ground pepper. Butter, cover and cook 5 min. stirring once.

Add peas, toss to coat well in sauce and add ¼ cup water, cook 5 min. Uncover, increase heat to medium and stir constantly until water evaporates. Adjust seasonings using lemon pepper. Serve.
Peas and Mint: Serves 4-6

1 lb. fresh or frozen peas

¼ cup. chopped fresh mint.

2 Tbs. butter

Steam or lightly boil the peas until crisp tender about 5 min or as stated on package. Drain, add mint or butter and toss to coat and mix, Serve at once.

Sautéed Radishes: Serves 4- from 500 3-Ingredient Recipes by Robert and Carol Hildebrand.
1 lb. radishes-trimmed and split lengthwise
1 Tbs. minced garlic
1 Tbs. rice vinegar or other light, flavored vinegar
¼ cup olive oil
Salt and pepper
Heat the oil in a sauté pan over medium heat, add the radishes, season and add garlic. Cook 5-6 min. gently tossing. Add the vinegar and stir to incorporate. Serve at once.

Spring Spinach Salad: Serves 6-8—depending on size of bag OR
7-12 oz. . fresh, spring spinach
4-6 red radishes= 1 per serving
¼ cup toasted, chopped walnuts
4-5 fresh strawberries per serving – halved if large
½ cup crumbled feta cheese—optional for garnish
Vinaigrette dressing of choice—Raspberry suggested
Wash greens snap off hard stems, wash and hull berries, wash and thinly slice radishes, discarding greens. Chill all ingredients, in water if necessary. Drain and divide the spinach among plates, scatter radish slices, then berries, nuts and cheese over. Drizzle with dressing.

Spinach Pie: Serves 4
(1) 10 oz. package frozen chopped spinach-thawed-excess water drained off
1 envelope beef or chicken bouillon granules
1 egg slightly beaten
pinch nutmeg
Mix first 2 ingredients, pour into a lightly greased casserole, sprinkle with nutmeg and bake 30 min.in a 350 deg. oven until set, or microwave 8-10 min. Serve hot. Transport as for corn above.

Berry Napoleons: Serves 4
1 sheet puff pastry – rolled out to 9 x 12 inches
1 pint fresh berries of choice
1 ½ cup heavy cream or 2 cups whipped topping, or ice cream
Cover a baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut the dough into (12) 3 x 3 inch squares. Bake on the paper in a preheated 400deg oven for 15 min. or until golden. Cool and store air-tight if not to be used at once.
TO SERVE: Whip cream if using. Lay a square of pastry on a plate, place a portion of the cream then berries on top. Place the next piece of pastry on an angle on top. If serving 6, garnish with powdered sugar. If serving 4, repeat layers, placing the top piece of pastry at another angle, garnish with powdered sugar.

Have a Happy Holiday and stop to take a look at the book. Even if you don’t follow a recipe, you’ll discover many useful tips. You can find it on the site bookshelf, Kindle and our Etsy store. It’s a lot of value for $3.99.

Mar 18

ROASTS FOR SPRING 2021

As spring approaches our natural inclination is to eat lighter. In warmer weather we need less fat and fortifying carbohydrates to sustain us. Of course the prospect of summer around the corner is motivation to cut back on calories and eat less too. The recipe suggestions in Spring Roasts for Easter and Passover, are selected for holidays, occasions or simply dinners at this season. I’ve written several discussion of this subject specifically on April 5, 2012, April 21, 2014, March 22, 2015, March 22, 2018, April 1, 2019, March 25, 2020 each with different takes on the book and one on brunch options on March 23,2016. However, this is a real consideration this year because the spring holidays like all others, will be celebrated in smaller groups and menus changed accordingly.

Spring roasts are smaller, more tender, than the hardy stars of fall and winter feasts. Also, in keeping with the season, spring roasts are treated in a lighter manner and/or presented in a more delicate cut, such as a rack rather than a leg, and are often served au jus rather than with thickened gravy. They are meant to be accompanied by and compliment the fresh, young produce of spring not overpower it.

Foods have changed with the times as well. They aren’t so seasonally specific. For example pork, formerly associated with colder weather is found on menus all year, offering an economic option. Summer squash and asparagus are available in fall and winter. I deal with this subject in my post on Spring Roasts for March 22, 2018. Incidentally, that post lists different entrée recipes than this, so you might want to check it out. I quote from it here.

“Beef is welcome, but in cuts like fillet mignon, London broil and a seasoned brisket. Pork too is acceptable, as loin, tenderloin or the elegant chop display of a crown roast filled with steamed spring vegetables. Lamb is making a comeback as a mature animal because it’s sustainable, but the legs are larger and chops in racks are becoming favorites. Poultry is still popular and turkey has joined the line-up but as a Hotel Breast not a full bird. Ham, cured over the winter has always been popular too.

Spring Roasts does contain recipes for veal, which is still available in specialty butcher shops but recipes for veal, turkey, chicken and pork are interchangeable. There are also lots of recipes for sides and desserts. There are many menu options and available selections cover a wide price range resulting in a huge variety of possible presentations . This book offers suggestions for the complete entrée as well as tips on seasonal upgrades. For example, if you feel comfortable with your own method of roasting, say a chicken, there are ways to perk it up for spring.

Rub the roast with oil and sprinkle inside and out with a dried herb of choice
Instead of potatoes, roast whole carrots, onions or lightly blanched fennel quarters around the roast. About 40 min. before it’s done, add the vegetables with a bit of canned, condensed broth, baste them a time or two.
Forget thickening gravy. Use the rest of the broth to deglaze the roasting pan at the end, adding a little wine or herbs to make a sauce to pass at table.
Try one of the easy stuffings below. I suggest the rice because it’s lighter than bread. The first 2 recipes can be made ahead, frozen and thawed for use on the day

In general, for spring meals, I like to go easy on the carbs and serve several vegetable dishes,
including a leafy salad with fruit. If I’m catering to big or growing appetites, muffins, especially fruit ones or focaccia with a flavored topping are great fillers.”

However, if you prefer stuffing, or want to roll a roast, there are seasonal options for that in Spring Roasts as well. Some examples are below:

RECIPES

Apricot Glazed Cornish Hens

4 Cornish Hens
1 cup apricot nectar
4 Tbs. apricot jam
1 tsp. butter – melted
Marinate the hens in a plastic bag with the nectar, in the refrigerator for at least 2 hr. turning often. Remove the hens, reserving marinade, and place in a pan breast side up. Bake in a 350 deg. oven basting with marinade often during first 40 min. Mix butter with jam and baste the hens a final time. Bake 20 min. more or until hens are tender. Deglaze pan drippings with a bit of white wine or apple juice and serve with the hens.

Duck with Cherries

(1) 4lb. duckling
2 cups white wine or apple juice
Salt, pepper, powdered ginger –
2 Tbs. flour
(1) 20 oz. can pitted Bing cherries in syrup
Clean the duck, trim the fat and remove the oil gland. Place the duck on a rack in the sink, prick the skin with a fork all over and pour 2-4 cups of boiling water over the duck. This shrinks the skin and helps it crisp. Sprinkle with the seasonings and put the duck, on the rack in a pan into a preheated 450 deg. oven for 15 min. reduce heat to 350 deg. and cook for 20 min. per pound until tender. Baste often with the wine or juice, using all. When duck is done, keep warm. Strain fat from pan drippings. Mix the flour with the drippings and cook until smooth and thickened. Add the cherries with syrup and heat through. Spoon some of the sauce over each portion as served and pass the rest.

Chicken with Herb Butter
6 lb. oven roaster
5 cloves garlic – mashed
1 cup mixed chopped fresh herbs- rosemary, thyme, sage & parsley OR ¼ cup mixed dried herbs
¼ lb. butter softened
Salt and pepper
2 cups water or broth – more if needed
1 Tbs.cornstarch

Mix herbs, butter and garlic. Gently lift the breast skin on the chicken and spread about ¼ the butter mixture under the skin on each side. Put the chicken in a roasting pan breast side up. Gently dot some of the butter over the top and pour about ¼ cup both in the pan bottom. Put the chicken in a preheated 350 deg. oven and roast 30 min per pound dotting with the remainder of the butter and adding broth to keep the pan drippings fluid during roasting. Don’t baste unless it looks dry. Remove the chicken to a serving plate and tent with foil to keep warm. Mix broth with the pan drippings to equal 2 cups. Whisk in the cornstarch and stir over medium heat until slightly thickened. Serve with chicken.

Chicken with Fruit Stuffing.
6 lb. oven roaster
¼ cup diced onion
¼ cup diced celery
1 large cooking apple like Granny Smith, peeled, cored and in large cubes
1 orange cut in half and segments removed—rind zested and reserved
1/3 cup raisins\
½ tsp. each dried thyme, rosemary and sage
1 egg
6 slices cinnamon raisin bread – lightly toasted and torn in 1 inch pieces OR 6 slices white bread lightly toasted with ½ tsp. cinnamon added to the mix
@ 3 Tbs. orange juice or apple juice – more if needed to just moisten stuffing
Salt and pepper to taste
Chicken broth
1 Tbs. cornstarch

Mix all the ingredients above except the broth and cornstarch, adding only enough fruit juice to moisten. Stuff the chicken and put it in a roasting pan breast side up, with ½ cup broth in the bottom. Cook 30 min. per pound, adding broth to keep pan drippings fluid. When chicken is golden and juices run clear, remove to a serving plate and add enough broth or, optionally, broth and fruit juice to pan to equal 2 cups. Whisk in cornstarch and stir over medium heat until slightly thickened. Serve with roast.

Rack of Lamb: Allow 1 chop per serving
Number 1
2 racks of lamb
½ cup mint jelly
2 Tbs. vinegar
Trim the meat well and place fat side up in a roasting pan. Brush with jelly melted with vinegar and roast 375 deg. 15-20 min per pound. Brush with rest of the jelly mix just before finished. Serve on a platter and divide into servings at table.

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Number 2
2 racks of lamb
½ cup panko- lightly crushed
2 tsp. garlic powder
2 tsp. chopped fresh chives
3 tsp. chopped fresh mint
1 Tbs. lemon juice
1 tsp. lemon zest
Water
4 Tbs. butter
SAUCE
1 Tbs. lemon juice
½ cup white wine
2 Tbs. mint jelly
4 Tbs. butter
Mix the panko and next 6 ingredients in a bowl using just enough water to bind. Trim lamb and press breading into meat, Place bones down in a pan, drizzle with butter and roast 375 deg. for 15-20 min per pound. MAKE SAUCE by deglazing pan with lemon juice and wine, add a bit of water if more liquid is needed. Dissolve first jelly then butter in pan to make sauce. Serve drizzled on plates when carving.

Leg of Lamb with Mint Sauce

5-7lb. leg of lamb
½ cup of mint sauce – a vinegar based sauce, not mint jelly. For recipe see p.28*
¼ cup of cider vinegar
1 cup chicken broth
1 cup beef broth
3Tbs. flour
Trim all the fat from the lamb, rub with the vinegar and place in a roasting pan with ¼ inch of water. Pour about ¼ cup of mint sauce over the lamb and put in a 325deg. oven. Roast 13-15 min. per pound for rare, 16-18 min for medium After 15 min. pour over the other ¼ cup of mint sauce. Baste frequently with drippings, adding water as necessary to maintain the liquid level. Meanwhile, dissolve the flour in 1 cup broth. When meat is done, remove to a plate and keep warm. Use I cup of broth to deglaze pan add to the cup with the flour in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer and stir until thickened. Serve hot with the meat and pass mint jelly on the side.
* Mint Sauce:
Per bunch of fresh mint- I use spearmint; Cut off the thickest part of the stems and any root tendrils. Wash the leaves well. Place in a stockpot and just cover with apple cider vinegar. Bring to a simmer and add sugar to a sweet-sour taste. Don’t over sweeten. You may use sugar substitute. Cook until stems are soft—about 5-8 min. Cool and blend or process until mint is almost a powder. Pour into glass bottles. Leave to cool completely and screw on tops. I use well cleaned 8oz.salad dressing bottles. Store in a dark place at room temperature. Keeps for months.

Rub this over the leg of lamb before roasting and add a bit to pan drippings to baste. I make gravy of the pan drippings and 2 beef plus 1 chicken bouillon envelopes and 2 cups water mixed with ¼ cup mint sauce, pan drippings and about 5 Tbs. flour or 2 ½ Tbs. cornstarch.

For broiled lamb chops, or lamb patties, I pour a light covering of mint sauce over them before cooking.

Sauce can also be used for flavoring in Sheppard’s Pie, stews, soups etc.

Excellent over fresh fruit and vegetables.

Pork Loin and Beets: Serves 4- from Bon Appetit.com
¼ cup walnuts
3 Tbs. plus ½ cup olive oil
1 ½ pounds pork tenderloin
Kosher salt
2 medium onions, coarsely chopped
3 medium golden beets, scrubbed, cut into bite-size pieces
Freshly ground black pepper
4 garlic cloves, chopped
2 cups sauerkraut, plus ½ cup brine
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth
½ cup dry white wine
4 Tbs. fresh lemon juice, divided
½ cup finely chopped mint”
½ cup finely chopped parsley
¼ cup finely chopped dried tart apricots
Toast walnuts in a skillet or on a rimmed baking sheet, in a 350 deg. oven, tossing once, until golden brown, 7–10 minutes. Let cool, and chop. Heat 3 Tbs. oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Season pork loin with salt and cook until browned on all sides, 10–15 minutes. Transfer pork to a platter. Add onions and beets to same skillet and cook, stirring often, until onions are slightly translucent and browned, 10–12 minutes; season with salt and pepper. Add garlic, sauerkraut, brine, broth, wine, and 2 Tbsp. lemon juice and bring to a simmer. Cover skillet, reduce heat to low, and cook until beets are fork-tender, 25–30 minutes. Return pork to skillet and push down into liquid. Turn heat up to medium and simmer, uncovered, turning occasionally until instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of loin registers 150 deg., 20–30 minutes. Transfer pork to a cutting board and let rest 5 minutes before slicing.
Meanwhile, mix walnuts, mint, parsley, apricots, remaining 2 Tbs. lemon juice, and remaining ½ cup oil in a small bowl; season with salt and pepper. Spoon beet mixture onto plates and arrange sliced pork on top. Spoon a generous amount of walnut sauce over.

Spinach Stuffed Pork Loin: Serves 6
3 lb. boneless pork loin
(1) 4 oz. can mushroom stems and pieces
½ cup diced shallots
1 garlic clove-minced
2 Tbs. brandy
1 Tbs. butter
(1) 10 oz. box frozen, chopped spinach-thawed
1 Tbs. oil
Salt and pepper to taste
2 cups condensed canned chicken broth + more if needed
¼ cup white wine
Mix the broth and the wine. Butterfly the pork by lengthwise slicing almost through. Open it like a book and make similar slices down each half. Cover with plastic wrap and pound the meat to an even thinness. Sauté the shallots and mushrooms in the butter until golden, remove to a bowl. Add the oil to the pan and toss the spinach over with the garlic, remove to the bowl with the shallots and add seasonings. Save any pan juices and add to the broth mix. Spread the vegetable mixture on the meat to within a about an inch of each edge. Roll the meat around the stuffing, starting with a long side and secure with string. Pour over about ½ cup of broth mix and cook in a 350 deg. oven about 1 hr.45 min. >2 hrs. adding more broth mix as necessary. Deglaze the pan with the rest of the broth mix and pass at table.

Baked, Glazed Ham: For those on restrictive diets, Smoked Turkey can be substituted for the ham. The GLAZE is an old family recipe

1 ham, shank or butt 7-10 lbs.
½ cup molasses
2 Tbs. cider vinegar
@24 whole cloves
2 cups apple juice + more if needed
1 small can pineapple rings
4-5 Candied or Maraschino cherries + equal number of toothpicks
½ cup raisins
Trim all fat from the ham, lightly score the top and dot it with cloves. Put the ham in a roasting pan with 1 cup of apple juice to prevent sticking, and set it in a 350 deg. oven. After about 20 minutes, or when the scoring opens, baste it with ½ the glaze and add more juice to the pan, if needed. Allowing 15min. per pound, halfway through the cooking, add a bit more juice to the bottom of the pan to deglaze and baste with that, then spoon ½ the remaining glaze over the ham. 30 min. before it’s finished, open a small can of pineapple slices and, reserving the juice, place 4 slices on top of the ham, centering each with a cherry on a toothpick, then spoon the remaining glaze over them.
Raisin Sauce

Meanwhile, combine the reserved pineapple juice and enough apple juice to make 2 cups, with 2Tbs. cornstarch and ½ cup raisins. Stirring constantly, I bring the mixture to a boil in a small saucepan until it thickens and clarifies. Add the pan drippings and stir to incorporate. To make a delicious Raisin Sauce!

STUFFINGS –Stuffing with egg tends to puff and rice spills out. An easy way to keep the stuffing in a bird is to flatten a piece of bread with a can or rolling pin to compact it and place it over the cavity opening secured with a couple of poultry pins or skewers.

Apricot and Herb Stuffing: Yield 3 cups-Adapted from Memorable Roasts published by Konemann
1 cup chopped dried apricots
1 onion chopped
1 stalk celery chopped
¾ cup raisins
1 Tbs. dried parsley
¼ tsp. EACH dried sage, thyme, rosemary
About ¼ cup milk*
3 cups fresh breadcrumbs*
1 egg beaten*
Mix all the ingredients adding just enough milk to hold it loosely together and seal in a freezer bag or covered container. To use, thaw and stuff bird, cook as directed.
*Replace these ingredients with 3 cups cooked rice—suggestion brown rice.

Walnut and Ham Stuffing: Yield 3 cups- Adapted from Memorable Roasts published by Konemann
1cup finely chopped ham
½ cup chopped walnuts
½ cup chopped mushrooms
¼ cup chopped parsley
About ¼ cup milk*
2 cups chopped breadcrumbs*
1 egg beaten*
Mix all the ingredients adding just enough milk to hold it loosely together and seal in a freezer bag or covered container. To use, thaw and stuff bird, cook as directed.
*Replace these ingredients with 3 cups cooked rice—suggestion brown rice

Fruit Stuffing for Duck: Yield about 3 cups
2 apples, peeled, cored and diced
½ navel orange sectioned + 1Tbs. slivered orange peel OR (1) 8oz. can mandarin oranges, drained
About ¼ cup orange juice or milk
1/3 cup raisins
1 small onion chopped
1 stalk celery chopped
1 tsp . dried sage
3 slices raisin bread toasted-torn in1 inch pieces
Mix all the ingredients adding just enough liquid to hold it together. Stuff bird and cook as directed.

Mar 11

BEETS AND CABBAGE DRESSED FOR SPRING

Mother Nature rarely adjusts her schedule to ours, especially when it comes to delivering spring produce by dates we dictate. While we’re ready for warm weather, the sight of flowers and new grass, she ignores March 21 as her opening day, usually opting for another month or so to have the first produce crops ready. So here we are, with our appetites primed for spring, ready for fresh seasonal vegetables, forced to wait as the saying goes; “For nature to take her course.”

Of course there’s always frozen and produce transported from a distance, but they don’t have the succulence of the fresh local crop and, for me, kind of spoil the anticipation. My solution is to turn to new ways to present a few year ‘round favorites.

Cabbage, for example, is boiled or served as kraut in winter, yet coleslaw is a regular at summer meals, so it qualifies as a bridge between seasons. Serving it in some different ways to show off its freshness gives it a new appeal. I’m looking forward to making Pepper Hash (see description below with recipe) this weekend. I come from a seaside resort town, where fish was plentiful and every market had a large container at the fish counter. I hadn’t realized how much I missed it until I started this post and that I’ve never served it at home. It will be a spring treat, adding zip to a meal and giving my family a new fresh, taste experience.

Red beets are another vegetable that spans the seasons. Served hot in winter, they’re just as good cold, pickled beets really perk up summer meals. Once very popular, they’ve lagged for a few decades despite the introduction of new ‘heritage’ varieties. It’s a shame because beets are flavorful, versatile and full of nutrients. Moreover, the juice from pickled beets does wonders for hard boiled eggs, and preserves them for up to a month—good to know with Easter coming up! Pickle some beets and you won’t have to worry about how and how fast to use up those eggs from the hunt.

Actually cabbage and beets are great partners. There are several recipes for them together, and the other night, feeling creative, I made a salad of slivered cabbage wedges, pickled beets, sliced onion with toasted walnuts and feta cheese in a wasabi infused vinaigrette garnished with dill seeds. It was so good I plan to have it again this week, adding left-over roast pork and probably some bugler to make a full dinner. I’ve included some recipes combining them below.

So until Nature presents us with this year’s produce, try satisfying your craving for fresh seasonal food by putting new twists on standard fare. The recipes below are only a few suggestions but I’m sure you’ll like them and, hopefully, find some to build on to suit your personal choice.

RECIPES

Braised Cabbage: Serves 4
1 head cabbage -2-3 lb.
2 Tbs. butter
2 Tbs. oil
½ cup white wine
2 tsp. chopped fresh dill or 1 tsp. dry dillweed
Salt and Pepper
Wash and drain the cabbage . Cut in large cubes. Saute over medium heat in the oil and melted butter, tossing with two spoons until slightly wilted and lightly browned. Add the wine and seasonings, cover, reduce heat and cook down until crisp tender, about 5-8 min. Uncover and allow liquid to cook down a bit. Serve hot.
VARIATIONS: Substitute tarragon for the dill. Saute 2 pkgs. Small sausages (like Brown and Serve) in pan first. Drain any fat in pan. Cut sausages in 4 pieces and reserve. Proceed as above and return sausages to pan when it’s uncovered for final heating.
OPTIONALLY: Microwave 3 medium potatoes until just tender, about 2 min. Cut in large pieces and brown in pan after sausages are done, adding extra butter and/or oil as needed. Remove and return to pan with sausages to heat through.

Stir-Fried Cabbage: Serves 4
1 ½ qts. shredded cabbage
1 onion thinly sliced
½ green bell pepper julienned
2 tsp. minced gingerroot or ½ tsp. powdered ginger
1 garlic clove-minced
½ cup any broth
Toss vegetables in a sauté pan over medium heat for 2 min. before adding broth and seasonings. Toss well then cover and steam 3-8 min. until just crisp tender.

Pepper Hash: Yield 6 cups
A nice change from creamy Cole slaw, this vinegary hash tastes great with barbecued chicken, ribs, hamburgers, grilled steak…in other words. It’s a perfect addition to any summertime cookout. The recipe can be easily doubled to feed a crowd
½ medium green cabbage (about 1 ¼ pounds)
½ green bell pepper
½ red bell pepper
1 carrot, peeled
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
¼ cup granulated sugar
½ teaspoon mustard seeds
½ teaspoon celery seeds
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper .
Finely shred the cabbage, bell peppers, and carrot and combine in a large bowl. Combine the vinegar, sugar, mustard seeds, celery seeds, salt, and pepper in a small saucepan and cook, stirring, over low heat until sugar is dissolved, about 5 min. Pour the hot mixture over the vegetables and toss well to coat. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least four hours (or overnight) for flavors to develop.

Cabbage and Beet Relish: Yield=1quart
2 qts. cooked beets peeled and chopped
2 qts. cabbage chopped
1 cup grated horseradish
2 cups sugar
2 tsp. salt
Pepper to taste
Vinegar to cover
Toss solid ingredients and place, well mixed in a gallon jar with a wide neck . Pour in vinegar to cover and store in a cool place. Test for taste frequently. Serving time is optional according to taste.

Cabbage and Beet Sandwiches: Yield 6
1 cup shredded cabbage
1 large cooked beet-chopped
½ green bell pepper-chopped
6 black olives – sliced
½ cup Russian dressing
12 slices pumpernickel bread or rye bread
Butter on side of each slice of bread. Mix other ingredients with dressing and spread on bread.

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Pickled Beets: This can be made using freshly cooked beets or canned
Place cooked, peeled and/or sliced beets in a pot, covered in their juice. Remove half the juice and replace with vinegar. Add sugar and salt to taste. (Optionally other flavorings are added according to ethnic recipes, also to taste, cloves, caraway, peppercorns, allspice sliced onions and horseradish.)
Bring to a simmer, reduce heat and cook until the sugar dissolves and beets are heated through. Remove and allow to cool. Store covered in a cool place and allow to marinate for at least 36 hrs. These will keep for months properly stored. Serve well drained .
NOTE: After the beets are eaten the juice is a wonderful marinade to devil hard-boiled eggs. Put the eggs in a jar, covered with the juice and allow to pickle for at least 5 days. They should be a purple color. They are eaten whole, deviled and chopped into a salad. Don’t worry if they feel hardened, that’s to be expected.

Beets with Herbs: Serves 4
12 small cooked and peeled beets- canned-drained will do(save the juice to devil eggs)
4 Tbs. butter
½ cup sliced scallions
¼ cup chopped parsley
1 Tbs. fresh tarragon = 1 tsp. dried
1 ½ Tbs . sugar
¼ cup white wine vinegar
Salt and pepper
Leave whole or slice the beets. Melt the butter in a saucepan; add the beets and the other ingredients and heat through. Serve hot.
OPTIONALLY: Add 1 cup sour cream at the end and just heat through.

Beet Baskets: Per portion
The amounts vary with the choice of ingredients and the size of the beets, depending on their intended use. Small ones make canapés, medium ones are for sides and large ones can be entrees.
Boil and peel the beets, slice off a sliver of the bottom so they stand upright. Then hollow out the center, leaving at least a ½ inch shell on the large ones.
For 6 Servings:
6 medium beets prepared hollowed out- pulp reserved and chopped
1 cup chopped cooked beet greens*
1 hardboiled egg-chopped
1 slice of cooked bacon-diced
1 Tbs . chopped onion
1 Tbs. melted butter
Salt and pepper
Parsley for garnish
Mix all the ingredients but the parsley and stuff the beets. Place them in a flat bottom pan in a preheated 350 deg. oven and heat them through. Garnish with parsley and serve hot.

VARIATIONS:

1)Cold peas and chopped celery mixed with mayonnaise, or another creamy or boiled dressing

2)Chopped hard-boiled egg and chopped sweet pickle mixed with French dressing and a dash of mustard

3)Chopped hard boiled eggs mixed with tarragon chives and mayonnaise

4)The beet pulp chopped and mixed with chopped sautéed onions

5)Cheese flavored rice

6)Canned herring or mackerel can be combined with any of the above stuffings

7)Horseradish can be added to any of the stuffings where acceptable and horseradish dressing can be substituted for any suggested ones.

*NOTE: Beet greens are a wonderful vegetable by themselves, much like any other leafy green such as spinach and kale and like them 1lb. =2 servings.
1) Wash the greens well and briefly blanch them in boiling water. Drain them well and sauté them in melted butter with 1 Tbs. lemon juice and garnish with a pinch of nutmeg.
2) Wash and blanch them as above, then sauté in oil with chopped garlic.

Mar 4

HOW TO EASILY DIY ‘CORN’ MEATS

A few years ago, I wrote Some Saint Patrick’s Day Recipes-From Canapes to Coffee. Even then the holiday was reduced from its former free-wheeling status but people still celebrated with parades and, of course, green beer at the local pub, both of which are out of the question now due to social restrictions. However, what makes the day unique is that, aside from Thanksgiving turkey, it’s the only holiday when Americans traditionally share the same menu-corned beef and cabbage. I wrote posts on Saint Patrick’s Day on March 16, 2012, March 14, 2013, March 13, 2014, March 11, 2015, March 9, 2016, March 8. 2018, Feb. 28, 2019 , March 5, 2020.Most are similar but they do have different slants on menus and leftovers

Cuts of beef, both brisket, now sold as ground, and the leaner rounds, sold as roasts, used to be readily available corned in markets. The dish was featured in restaurants and home kitchens filled with its aroma. Now it’s a rarity, probably for several reasons. Our national palate is less intrigued by simpler recipes, and we are too busy for time-consuming cooking tasks, but above all, the price of beef makes us reluctant to prepare it in any way that alters beef’s natural taste.

Younger people know corned beef as the base of a Ruben; older ones will recall it as the main ingredient in hash, once considered a budget meal and a popular sandwich cold cut. It has a distinct taste, not as spicy and much leaner than pastrami and less salty than ham. There is definitely room for it in the culinary larder but as stated, beef is expensive to be used this way.

I have found what, for me, is an acceptable, affordable solution. Years ago, I read an article by Julia Child describing her relief she had corned a beef round that week when confrontation by unexpected luncheon guests. It shocked me because I had always thought ‘corning’, if not messy or complicated, to be a lengthy process. Instead it’s easy and simple, taking, optionally 3-5 days and just refrigeration.

First I corned a small bottom round, cutting the corning ingredients by half, and it was perfect! Then realizing beef prices were going up, I began looking for alternatives, especially smaller options for empty nesters like me. I had a ham, so I cut a lobe off, corned it and was floored when I was complimented on the flavor of the corned beef and cabbage. It was a born stand-in.

Well, whole hams aren’t too budget friendly either, and meat has continued its costly rise, so this year I went a step further. I bought a whole Boston butt on sale and butchered it myself. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D10lJYqjLB4) I got enough for 4 servings of pork and kraut, 3 of country ribs, enough roast to corn for 2-3 portions with cabbage and enough for a pork roast yielding 5-6 portions.

There was no difference in the color, texture or taste of these meats and commercial corned beef but they were a big economy and one I intend to repeat often and expand upon by making my own deli meat. I’ll be featuring corned meat as a cold cut and in sandwiches in the future. Although I’ll use pork loin, if I’m planning a cold cut platter. If you want to try corning other meats and cuts, my book The Meat Stop will provide all the information needed along with diagrams. Find it on the site bookshelf, kindle or our Etsy store.

On the flip side, an improvement to Saint Patrick’s Day in the U.S. is the availability of Kerry Gold butter in most markets in March, some carry it all year. The butter is made from the fresh cream of cows grazed on grassy green Irish meadows, which results in its bright golden hue. The higher fat content gives baked goods a buttery taste and adds a flaky texture. As a spread there’s no comparison. If you haven’t tried Kerry Gold, please do. You’ll be so glad you did.

‘CORNING’ DIRECTIONS: Note-the amounts of corning seasonings and cooking times should be adjusted to the poundage of the meat according to the original formula for beef, no matter which type you choose.

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For Beef:

For 5-6 lbs. of beef –any cut—Allow to marinate 36 hrs. to 8 days- Adjust ingredient amounts according to the poundage of the cut being corned.
6-8 cups water or enough to cover by 1 inch
1 cup salt
3 Tbs. brown sugar
1 bay leaf
6 peppercorns
1 clove garlic-minced
¼ tsp. choice of any or all—whole allspice, paprika, ginger, mustard powder, nutmeg or mace.-I use allTrim the meat of fat, wipe with a damp cloth and pierce all over with a fork. Place in a glazed ceramic, glass or enameled pan that fits comfortably and is deep enough to allow for full immersion in the brine. Put all the above spices and seasonings in 4 cups warm water and stir to dissolve the sugar and salt. Pour over the beef. Add enough water to cover the meat by 1 inch. Place a weighted plate on top and leave to marinate in a cool or cold place for at least 3 days, better 5-8.
The first time I did this I used a glazed terra cotta planter, then I found an enameled roasting pan in a flea market. For weights I use a Dollar Store plate and a brick, then seal the pan with plastic wrap. I only make this in winter, so if I don’t have room in the refrigerator, I put it on a shelf in the garage—just as long as it doesn’t freeze.

Corning Ham:
Last year, on a hunch, I cut a lobe from a ham shank and used the corning ingredients, minus the salt and water, as a dry rub. I put it in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for a week and boiled it as I would a corned beef, timing adjusted to the poundage of the meat. The taste was close enough to corned beef to fool everyone who ate it, even sliced cold, and the price difference was well, the difference between beef and ham.
1 to 2 lb. lobe cut from a ham
Omit the water and salt from the above list of ingredients
measure half quantities of the remaining spices and seasonings all in ground form.
Mix those items and use them as a dry rub for the ham. Seal the ham in a plastic bag and refrigerate it for 4-7 days. Remove from plastic, leaving rub on, cover with broth and cook as for corned beef.

Corning Pork
Use a boneless roast either cut from the butt or the loin
Follow the directions for beef, adjusting the amount of corning ingredients and cooking times to the weight of the meat. This was the most wallet friendly choice and one I intend to make to supply cold cuts-another big saving.

RECIPES

Corned Beef Salad: Serves 4
¾ lb. sliced corned beef- in ½ inch dice
4 medium boiled potatoes- in ½ inch dice
4 medium cooked or canned red beets- in ½ inch dice
1 Kosher dill pickle- in ½ inch dice
4 Tbs. salad oil
2 Tbs. wine vinegar
½ tsp. mashed garlic or ¼ tsp. garlic powder
2 tsp. spicy brown or Dijon mustard
1 Tbs. chopped fresh chives
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Lettuce leaves
2 hardboiled eggs cut in quarters or sliced

Combine first 9 ingredients in a salad bowl. Add a bit of salt to taste and about 6 generous grinds of pepper. Toss gently and marinate in the refrigerator 4 to 5 hours. Toss again and arrange on lettuce lined plates; garnish with eggs and more chives or another grind of pepper.

Reuben Sandwiches: These are served open faced, which my family favors, or closed.
1 loaf good Deli Jewish Rye Bread
@ ½ lb. sliced corned beef or shredded leftover
8 oz. bottle of Russian dressing
1 lb. Sauerkraut
@ ½ lb. Deli sliced Swiss cheese
Allow 2 slices bread per portion. For open-faced lightly toast the bread, for closed toast only one side.
Spread a toasted side with the Russian dressing, cover with the meat then the kraut and top with the cheese. The amounts you use are optional. If planning a closed sandwich, fill only half the slices and top with the others; for open cover all. The open sandwiches can be run under the broiler until the cheese melts, the closed topped with the empty slices, toasted sides in, and broiled or grilled turning once, until both sides are golden. Serve hot.

A Light Lite Dessert:
Lime sherbet
green Crème de Menthe liqueur
Put a scoop of sherbet in each dessert dish. Poke a hole in the center with the handle of a wooden spoon and pour the liqueur in just to fill and slightly overflow. Serve at once.

Feb 25

12 SPEEDY ‘FRESH’ FISH RECIPES FOR LENT

Christians traditionally observe Lent with some type of fasting. The most customary and frequent choice is to forgo meat the first and last days, Ash Wednesday and Good Friday. Some also abstain one day each week for the duration of Lent. The popular substitute for the meat is fish, which can present a problem for busy people, especially working parents and anyone who shops once per week.

Unlike meat, fresh fish can’t be purchased several days ahead, it must be eaten within a day. Freezing, often, isn’t an option either. Depending on geographical location and species of fish, chances are it was frozen or chilled to near freezing for transport to market. Re-freezing would render it inedible. If you want to know more about handling, choosing and using seafood, I have a book, All About Seafood, available on this site’s bookshelf and on Amazon and Etsy.

There’s a wide variety of frozen seafood available from shellfish to prepared dishes, but much of it may be expensive for a week night, be over dependent on bread for coating or filling, be an unacceptable recipe, or simply require too much time to prepare.

For those nights, I like the freedom of options supplied by the individually wrapped fish fillets usually sold in bags. They are perfectly proportioned, so it’s easy to take just what’s needed. They thaw fast and cook quickly in different recipes allowing the cook freedom of choice. Although several species are packaged this way, the three most often found in markets are Tilapia, Salmon and Flounder. I’m giving 3 recipes for each and 3 for shrimp, because it also fits this category.

These recipes suit a busy lifestyle, needing only about 30 min. to prepare, including prep time. Several even allow a bit of kick-back time while they’re cooking, and none of them are in the splurge category, although a few are acceptable ‘company- fare.’

First though, I’m including a recipe that can be used to prepare each of the above items and most other types of seafood. This vegetable sauce can either be presented as a bedding for larger pieces of seafood or as a sauce containing smaller pieces to be served over pasta or rice. The actual ingredients can be changed, adding string beans, zucchini or broccoli or omitting the celery or peppers according to whim, but the method and outcome remain the same—fast, easy and delicious.

RECIPES

Mediterranean Baked Fish
This is a delicious way to cook fish and a wonderful way to serve vegetables. Mackerel is originally recommended but I find the technique works well with almost any fish fillet, though I prefer a white fish like Tilapia or Flounder. I use a variety of vegetables, cut beans, broccoli, zucchini, usually peppers and always onions. For the tomatoes, anything goes, leftover sauce, any type fresh or canned. I allow for at least 1 cup cooked vegetables, per portion. I like a dash of Tabasco or a sprinkle of cayenne added and maybe a touch of garlic powder too.

Microwave the diced raw onions, peppers and any raw vegetables you’re using in a bit of oil for 1 min. Add any frozen ones and cook 1 min. more. Mix with any cooked items and the tomatoes or tomato sauce. Put in a pan, cover with the fish fillet. Lightly spray the fish with cooking oil and sprinkle with a little lemon pepper and paprika. Bake at 350 deg. 8 min. per 1 inch width of the fillet, on average about 20-24 min. until fish flakes and vegetables bubble. Serve at once while very hot.

Coconut Crusted Tilapia: Serves 4
4 Tilapia filets – about 1lb
1 cup plain Panko
½ cup sweetened coconut flakes – toasted
½ cup + mayonnaise
Lemon pepper
Step I- Preheat oven to 350 deg. Toast coconut on a piece of foil until golden, about 4 min. watching that edges don’t burn. When cool mix with Panko.
Step 2 – Place fish on a lightly oiled cooking surface, a pan or baking sheet. Completely cover the tops with a thin sheet of mayonnaise, more like a veneer. Dust lightly with lemon pepper.
Step 3 – Sprinkle with Panko-coconut mix, and bake 8 min. per 1 inch width of filet, until top is golden, fish puffs slightly and edges bubble. Serve at once
Note: I put the breading mix in an empty herb bottle with a shaker top. It’s easy to apply, and any extra can simply be stored in the bottle.

Fusion Tilapia: Serves 4
4 large Tilapia fillets
3 bunches scallions – also called green onions- trimmed of roots and course green stems
1 Tbs. garlic powder
1 Tbs. powdered ginger
3 Tbs. butter – divided
2 Tbs. oil
2 Tbs. Soy Sauce
½ cup Cream Sherry
(1) 2lb . 4 oz. can sweet potatoes*
2 Tbs. brown sugar
Salt and pepper.

Drain the sweet potatoes. Using 1 Tbs. butter and the brown sugar, and if needed a bit of their own syrup, candy them, either in a skillet on the stove, or in a cooking oil sprayed pan in the oven, as per directions on the can. (I have been known to do this in the microwave, by melting the butter, dissolving the sugar in it, coating the potatoes well, covering and cooking on high for @ 3 min .in one minute intervals.)
Cut white and light green parts of scallions on and angle in 1 ¼ inch pieces. Set aside.
Melt 1 Tbs. butter and 1 Tbs. oil over medium heat, and gently sauté Tilapia, until it becomes white, adding more butter as needed. You may need to do this in batches. Remove to a plate. Add the remainder of the butter and oil then the garlic and ginger to the pan and stir quickly to avoid clumping. Add the Soy Sauce, Sherry and scallion pieces. Stir for 30 sec. Reduce the heat to medium low. Return the fish to the pan and simmer until heated through, about 2 min. Apportion the potatoes on the plates, in the center of each. Serve the fish decoratively leaning slightly against the potatoes. Spoon the scallions and sauce over the fish.
*NOTE: Sweet potatoes can be used straight from the can, leftover, fresh baked or cubed and boiled, even replaced by squash. It’s a matter of preference and what’s on hand.

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Tilapia-Zucchini Kabobs: Serves 4- From Quick and Easy by Parragon Publishing
4 tilapia fillets
2 zucchini or yellow squash cut into 12 thick slices
12 cherry tomatoes
12 thick chunks or slices of slightly cooked white or sweet potatoes or carrots
1 lemon –quartered
8 skewers-if wood, soak in water first
SAUCE
4 bay leaves crushed
3 Tbs. olive oil
2 Tbs. lemon juice
¼ tsp. lemon pepper
¼ tsp. dried thyme
Cut the fillets in halves lengthwise and then into 2 strips each half. Roll the fish strips and thread alternately on the skewers with the vegetables. Place the skewers on a lightly oiled, foil lined baking sheet. Mix the sauce it ingredients in a bowl and liberally brush the skewers. Grill or broil about 4 inches from the heat about 10 min. or until fish is done, turning and basting often with the sauce. Serve hot with the lemon wedges.

Baked Flounder Meniere: Serves 4- Tilapia can also be used
4 flounder filets-about 1 ½ lb.
¾ cup white wine
3 Tbs. butter- cut in small pieces
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley OR 4 tsp. dried
Put the fillets in a glass baking dish, close together but not touching. Pour over the wine and spread the butter pieces equally over the fish then sprinkle the parsley on top, 1 tsp. per fillet. Bake at 350 deg. 5-8 min. per 1 inch of width, basting twice, until fish flakes easily. Serve at once hot, with pan juices as sauce.

Flounder Veronique: Serves 4-Tilapia can also be used
4 large flounder fillets-about 24 oz. .
¼ cup butter
¼ cup white wine
¼ tsp. powdered rosemary
Pinch lemon pepper
½ cup milk
1 tsp. cornstarch
1 cup seedless grapes halved-green is traditional
Sauté the fish in the butter until it is begins to flake, about 8-10min.add the wine and seasonings, cover and cook over low heat 5 min. Remove fish to a plate and keep warm. Bring pan juices to a boil. Have cornstarch dissolved in milk and add to the pan. Simmer until thickened about 2 min. Add grapes and heat through. Serve fish with hot sauce and grapes over it.

Spinach Centered Fish Ring: Serves 4
4 filets of a mild flavored white fish-tilapia, flounder, scrod.
(2) 10 oz. boxes frozen chopped spinach -thawed
1 egg
1 envelope or 1 Tbs. bouillon granules either chicken or beef
1/8 tsp. ground nutmeg
Step 1-cut the fish filets lengthwise in half and form each filet into a ring, head to tail, securing with toothpicks. Place in a lightly greased close-fitting pan, but not with the rings touching.
Step 2 – Squeeze excess water out of the spinach and mix it with the egg and the bouillon
Step 3 – Fill the fish rings with the spinach and sprinkle the nutmeg over the tops.
Step 4 – Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven about 20- 25 min. or until egg cooks and forms custard in the bottom of the pan. Serve at once with pieces of the custard as a garnish.
Alternatively for hearty appetites, form the halves of fish filets into only 2 rings and divide the spinach between them. Add 5 to 8 min, to cooking time.

Poached Salmon with Dill Sauce: Serves 4
4 salmon fillets or steaks – about 24 oz.
½ cup mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
1-1 ½ Tbs. dried dill weed-depending on taste
Mix the mayonnaise and sour cream with the dill until smooth and chill at least a couple of hours in advance to meld flavors. Boil enough water to cover, in a skillet or pot that easily holds all the fish. Slide the fish into the water and poach 5-8 min. per inch of width until it is opaque, firm and a pale pink. Remove from pot one at a time, and run under cold water until cool enough to slip off the skin and, if using steaks, carefully remove the bones without tearing the meat. Plate and chill the fish, covered to prevent drying if being made in advance. When ready to serve, plate the fish and top with equal mounds of the sauce. Garnish with more dill or chopped chives.

Maple Marinated Salmon: Per portion –to be multiplied as needed
(1) 5-6oz salmon filet – skinned
1 Tbs. oil
2 Tbs. maple syrup
2 tsp. balsamic vinegar
2 tsp. bourbon
Whisk the oil, syrup and vinegar and bourbon to combine well. Pour the marinade over the fish in the baking pan, and turn the filet over a few times to coat both sides. Marinate in the refrigerator at least 1 hr. and up to 4 hrs. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven for 8 min. per inch of width. Baste occasionally with pan juices. Serve at once, with any pan juices that remain and garnished with a sprinkling of freshly cracked black pepper.

Salmon Teriyaki*: Serves 4- From Eat Up and Slim Down by Jane Kirby and David Joachim
(4) 5 oz. salmon steaks or fillets
Sauce*
½ cup soy sauce
2 Tbs. rice vinegar
3 garlic cloves or ½ tsp. garlic powder
1 Tbs. chopped fresh ginger OR 1tsp. powdered ginger
1 ½ cups (12 oz.) thawed frozen apple juice concentrate
½ cup finely chopped scallions or onions
Puree everything but scallions and salmon. Refrigerate the fish and onion in the marinade at least 8 hr. or overnight. Preheat the oven to 350 deg. and bake the fish in the marinade 8-10 min. until opaque and flakes.
* A good commercial Teriyaki sauce may substitute for the sauce recipe. Use only enough to cover the fish and look for those labeled Marinade – Sauce preferably.

Shrimp Kabobs: Serves 4
Cubes of Monkfish, Salmon steak, Swordfish, even Tuna steaks will work in place of shrimp:
2 lbs. extra-large (26-30 count) raw shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails on
2 Tbs. olive oil
1 tsp. Tabasco
1 tsp. Worcestershire Sauce
2 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary or equal amount dried
3 cloves minced garlic
1 tsp. dried oregano
¼ tsp. allspice powder
2 lemons – one juiced one in quarters
Kosher salt to taste
Freshly ground pepper
Barbeque Sauce –l optional for dipping
Skewers

Mix all the ingredients but the salt and quartered lemon in a bowl large enough to hold the shrimp. Add the shrimp and marinate, covered at room temperature at least 1 hr. or several hours in the refrigerator. Thread shrimp head to tail on as many skewers as necessary – long metal ones require about 4. Preheat broiler or grill, and cook shrimp until pink and beginning to brown, basting frequently with the marinade. Sprinkle with salt. Serve with lemon quarters.

Shrimp Stew: Serves 4-One of the very few of my recipes using canned soup
1 lb. shrimp-preferably cleaned, raw, size optional -tails off-cooked can be used
2 cans condensed shrimp soup
½ cup milk or half and half
1 stalk celery sliced thin
1 medium-large onion –halved, halves quartered
1 Tbs. oil
1 cup frozen peas
4 oz. can sliced mushrooms- drained
Lemon pepper to taste
Parsley for garnish
Microwave the onion and celery in the oil about 2 min. until crisp tender. In a pot large enough to hold all the ingredients, whisk the soup and the milk until smooth over low heat; stir in the celery and onion with their juices. Stirring, add the peas and raise heat until nearly at a simmer but do not let it boil. Still stilling, add the mushrooms and shrimp and cook until shrimp is cooked-to opaque and pink. Add the lemon pepper to taste and serve hot garnished with parsley, in bowls or optionally over rice.

Shrimp Cucumber and Dill Sauce: Serves 4-6
1 medium cucumber peeled seeded and chopped
1 tsp. salt
4 tbs. butter
1 bunch of scallions-white parts only chopped
1 clove garlic chopped
1 cup white wine
1 Tbs. chopped dill
1 cup half and half
1 lb. raw shelled and cleaned shrimp
1 lb. cooked pasta
Sprinkle salt over cucumber in a bowl and allow to sit for 20 min. Rinse well and drain then chill. Sauté scallions and garlic in butter until soft, add wine and reduce by half, add shrimp and dill. Cook until shrimp are pink, add cream and simmer to reduce and thicken slightly, add reserved cucumber just to heat through and season with salt and pepper if needed. Serve over pasta.

Feb 18

6 DIET FRIENDLY PASTAS FOR LENT

I’ve written several posts the last few weeks, not so much on losing weight, as to avoid gaining it by healthy eating-especially for those of us spending more time close to the kitchen. Last week I discussed how carbohydrates can actually be the dieter’s friend.

This week, with Lent having begun, I want to continue that thought by showing how everyone’s favorite carb-pasta- can wear a white hat at the dinner table, with some pasta recipe suggestions for the season. Pasta is perhaps, globally, the most popular food. With over 100 varieties of noodles, it fits any cuisine and occasion depending on the sauce. Sauces can be traditional or spur of the moment innovations with an infinite number of combinations depending on the ingredients available.

The recipes can be deceptive as to their nutritional values and can change those according to the ingredients used without altering flavor. For example, the Straw and Hay recipe below appears rich and fattening. Actually, per serving, made with heavy cream and butter the sauce totals 133 cal. (cream) and 326 cal. (butter) =459 cal. and 0 carbs. Made with half and half at 60 cal. and margarine at 160 cal. it’s 220 cal. and 2.6 carbs. (from the fluid).

The choice of pasta can make a difference too. 1 cup white pasta contains 221 cal. and 47 carbs. 1 cup whole wheat pasta has 174 cal. and 37 carbs. That equals a total of 680 cal. and 47 carbs. per serving for the original Straw & Hay recipe and 394 cal. with 39.6 carbs for the altered one. These small differences can really matter in maintaining weight. Moreover, compared to the average amount of calories and carbohydrates contained in most entrée plates, these totals aren’t unreasonable.

Pasta dishes are always fresh, can be quick and easy, subject to the sauce, and constantly offer room for creativity. That’s part of the fun, and appeal, of pasta. As an example,* soon after I moved to Italy, I learned that the commercially bottled and labeled olive oil, sold in stores, used in hotels and large restaurants was different from the ‘house oil’ oil served in small trattorias and homes. That oil came from communal pressings in near-by towns or from family or friends who had groves, and it had enough body and flavor to stand alone. Within weeks I had worked out a favorite fast meal to make after a long day’s work; a steaming plate of cappellini, tossed with oil salt, pepper and cheese.

Then a friend suggested I up the taste by adding spinach pasta and another advised I add tomato pasta as well and call it Pasta Bandiera or Flag Pasta because it was the colors of the Italian flag. That led to a running game of devising sauces to use on the dish using only those three colors. The red was tomatoes or peppers, and the white fennel, onion, cheese, even chicken or fish but the green ran a whole range of vegetables and herbs, even pesto which counted as one ingredient. As for me, I stuck to my original combo for the most part, and still do as a favorite go-to after a busy day but the story illustrates the imaginative fun that working with pasta offers.

The only real guideline in using pasta is in pairing the sauce with the right one. Smooth sauces are best presented on long strands and flat surfaces while chunky ones are better topping shaped varieties because the crevices trap the morsels of food. Of course, the smaller the food bits, the smaller the pasta shapes needed, and the more delicate the sauce the more delicate the pasta, whereas chunkier or more rustic sauces require firmer gauges of pasta. Other than that, it’s up to the cook!

Of the following recipes the first two are traditional. The others are really versions of other presentations and open to experimentation or adjustment. Aside from the giant shell dish which is a given, I mention pasta types with each recipe but only as suggestions. If you want to see more sauce recipes, I have a series of them in the archives. Just go to the blog and select Sept. 30, 2015 and Oct. 7. 2015 from the drop down menu in the box labeled ‘Archives’ in the right margin of the page.

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Recipes: * Try my favorite fast go-to as described above. There are no set measurements. It’s simply ‘to taste’ and if you decide to try your hand at making a sauce, you’ll probably want to add some garlic as well but it’s a great starting point to hone your pasta skills.

Pasta Puttanesca: Serves 4 (Spaghetti)
8 oz. pasta
4 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped = 1 ½ lb. or (1) 28oz. can diced, drained, juice reserved
1 Tbs. oil
1 tsp. red pepper flakes
2/3 cups drained tomato juice + water to reach amount if needed
2 crushed garlic cloves
12 pitted ripe olives-sliced
8 anchovy fillets chopped
2 tsp. chopped capers
¼ cup chopped parsley
1 Tbs. chopped fresh basil or 1 tsp. dried
In a large saucepan heat oil and cook garlic for 1 min . Add tomatoes, juice and/or water. Cover and simmer 10 min. for fresh, 5 min. for canned. Add water if needed to prevent sticking. Add remaining ingredients and simmer uncovered 5-8 min. Toss with cooked pasta. Serve hot garnished with parsley—NO Cheese Please!

Straw and Hay: Serves 6 (Fettucine)* –VERY child friendly
8oz. spinach pasta
8oz.regular pasta
½ cup butter
1½ cups heavy cream or half and half
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1¼ cups grated Parmesan
Cook pasta according to directions, drain and set aside. In pasta pot or a large skillet, melt butter over medium high heat and stir in cream. Keep stirring until cream thickens, lifting pot if cream starts to boil. Add pasta to pot and toss to mix with salt and pepper. Serve hot with cheese over top.
Note:* This is a mild flavored dish. For more zip, keeping it meatless, my favorite tip is to add ¼ cup shredded Pepper Jack cheese to the sauce as it cooks, and a bit of pasta water if needed, also consider adding capers, sliced green olives, anchovy paste or a few drops of hot sauce. Otherwise, 1 cup of cubed ham, turkey ham or corned beef or an envelope of bullion powder are good options.

Stuffed Shells: Serves 4
8oz. package giant shells
3 Tbs. butter
3 Tbs. flour
2 cups half and half or milk
½ lb. Gruyere cheese or 8 oz. bar Monterey Jack shredded
2 egg yolks
½ tsp. each nutmeg and salt
¼ cup melted butter
½ cup grated Parmesan
(1) 15 oz. can diced tomatoes (flavoring optional) or tomato sauce- optional*
Cook pasta and drain. Melt 3 Tbs. butter in a saucepan over medium, stir in flour to make a paste, remove from heat, stir in milk and return to heat stirring until thickened, about 3 min. Add shredded cheese, nutmeg and salt. Keep stirring until cheese melts. Whisk in eggs and mix well. Stuff shells and place in a greased 9X 13 inch pan, drizzle with melted butter and top with Parmesan. Bake in a preheated 400 deg. oven 15 min. until golden.
NOTE *If using: 1)Place tomatoes or sauce in pan before adding shells and bake together, or 2)heat tomatoes and spoon on plates before plating shells or 3)Heat and serve on the side.

Stir-Fry Primavera: Serves 4 (Rigatoni) “Primavera” means Spring in Italian and this is the truest form of the dish, using all spring vegetables not even summer tomatoes.
1 lb. pasta, cooked and drained
1 medium onion in large dice
1 medium carrot, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
1 zucchini cut in ¼ inch slices
1 lb. asparagus cut diagonally in ¼ inch slices-tips set aside
1 small fennel bulb, thinly sliced and slices cut in ½ inch pieces
1 cup peas
½ lb. sliced mushrooms
6 scallions thinly sliced
6 small or 4 large red radishes, thinly sliced – optional
2 large garlic cloves minced
½ cup chicken broth
¼ cup white wine
½ tsp. oregano
1 tsp. basil
2 Tbs. parsley
Salt and pepper
½ cup grated Parmesan

Melt butter in a skillet over medium-high heat and sauté garlic and onions until tender. Stir in fennel, carrot, zucchini, asparagus stems and mushrooms and cook for 2 min. Add broth, wine, basil and oregano, bring to a boil and boil until liquid is slightly reduced, about 3 min. Add peas, scallions, radish slices and asparagus tips, salt, pepper and parsley. Stir gently for 2 min. add pasta and cheese. Toss gently until well mixed. Serve with shaved Parmesan as a garnish.

Pasta with Pea Pods and Goat Cheese: Serves 8 (Bow ties or Penne)
16 oz. pasta
9 oz. pea pods- frozen is fine-large ones cut in half
1 onion halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
2 large red bell peppers julienned or 2 roasted jarred peppers thinly sliced
5 Tbs. butter
1 ½ cups light cream
1 Tbs. basil
6 oz. goat cheese-shredded
1 cup chopped toasted pecans
Cook pasta and have ready. Melt 2 Tbs. of the butter, sauté the onion, and pepper if using raw, until tender, about 3 min. add pea pods and cook ½ -1 min. more until bright green. In a saucepan, heat cream until ready to simmer and add to vegetables, off stove, along with basil and goat cheese. Add remaining 3 Tbs. butter to hot pasta in a serving bowl and top with vegetable mixture. Toss gently and serve at once garnished with pecans.

Pasta with Artichoke Hearts: Serves 6 (Small Shells)
1 lb. pasta
(2)9 oz. boxes frozen artichoke hearts or (3) 6 oz. jars marinated artichoke hearts
1 onion halved lengthwise and sliced
1 ½ lb. tomatoes, peeled and chopped or 15 oz. can diced
¼ cup oil
½ tsp. each salt, pepper and garlic powder
1 Tbs. capers
Salt and pepper
¼ cup chopped parsley
Cook pasta according to directions. If using frozen artichokes, cook according to directions and cut in half if large. If using marinated hearts, drain, cut in half if large and use oil to replace some of that required for cooking. Sauté onion in a large skillet until tender; stir in artichokes and sauté for 3 min. Add tomatoes, capers and seasonings and heat through. Toss with pasta and serve hot.

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