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Jun 14

COLD SALMON IS COOL

I love salmon. I love the mild, distinct, but not ‘fishy’ taste, the firm, yet tender texture, the pretty pink appearance, the overall versatility and importantly, the fact that it’s a healthy food choice. I guess you can tell my preference since this is the second time I’m writing about it in 4 months. However, it is a real menu ‘go-to’ shining in presentations, both cold and hot from elegant to casual I wrote about it earlier, suggesting several Lenten dinners. Now I’m suggesting easy, make-ahead recipes for cold summer meals. Whether you stay home or are on vacation, there are several reasons to count on salmon for dinner. Here I’m going to quote from my first post;

“It’s 1) Available, all year, fresh and frozen, 2) Accessible, from individual frozen fillets in Dollar Stores, to frozen multi-packs and fresh in supermarkets to freshly cut in fish markets 3) Affordable, with such a range of outlets there is something to fit every wallet and 4) Sustainable, still plentiful in the wild and very successfully farmed.

Salmon is a bit complicated to understand simply because it’s often sold listing species. Salmon is native to the northern regions of both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, but there are some non-migratory species living in lakes in Europe, North America and Siberia. Unfortunately, the Western Atlantic Coast has been over-fished and the only commercial hauls from that region are in Nova Scotia, where most of the catch is smoked before sale.

Native to the Eastern Pacific coast are 1) the Chinook, also called King or Blackmouth salmon, the largest Pacific species reaching 30 lb. 2)The Coho, or silver salmon which ranges as far as Southern California, 3)The Sockeye, a lake-rearing species and plankton eater, often used for canning; 4)The Chum, also called the dog or calico which has the widest range of the Pacific salmon covering both coasts; 5) The Pink also has a wide, but more northern range and is the smallest species, 6) The Masu is exclusive to the western Pacific coast. There are other salmonoid species in several countries but their marketing is strictly local.

Salmon is prepared in many ways, though I don’t recall ever seeing it deep fried or in batter. As for the actual cooking I quote The Canadian Department of Fisheries, recommended by top chefs from James Beard to Steven Raichlen and Bobby Flay. “Regardless of method, the cooking time should be 10 min. per inch of thickness of the fish at its thickest point”. If you have a whole fish 4 inches thick, you will cook it 40 min.; a steak 1 ½ inches would take 15 min. or 7 ½ min. per side and a thin fillet ½ inch thick would be 5 min. or 2 ½ per side.” (I tend to be more cautious here and allow 3 min. per side.) Tongs are great to turn fish steaks but spatulas are better for fillets and, if I’m doing thin fillets on an outdoor grill, I use a ‘fish holder’; a grill accessory with a long handle, which holds the fish between two rectangular pieces of metal mesh, making flipping them during cooking without breaking them easy.

Salmon, especially fresh, may have skin. Personally, I don’t like the skin on a fish fillet nor do I like messing the presentation, by having to flip the fish to remove it, or enjoy having to scrape the meat off the skin as I eat.  I empathize with parents who are trying to teach their children healthy eating. Fish is a hard sell to begin with and serving it with that ‘ickey’ skin is no help.

Actually, removing the skin is an easy, if a bit delicate, task.  Lay the fillet, flesh down, on a flat surface, thick end front. A cutting board or waxed paper covered counter top is ideal. Place the fish at a slight diagonal to you, and gently lift one corner by the skin. It should start to separate from the meat, allowing you to slip a sharp knife between the two and carefully slice them apart. I usually use a 5 inch knife for this job, but knife size depends on the fillet and whatever you’re comfortable with. The important thing is that the knife is sharp.

Leaving the skin on may cause fish to curl when cooking because the skin contracts. The best way to prevent this is to slit the skin across several times and start the cooking skin side down.  Even with the skin removed, some types of fish, like Monkfish, may still have a tendency to curl. I have found that the only way to prevent this is by snipping the darker line of flesh that can be seen when the skin is removed. It runs lengthwise down the center of the fillet and several shallow cuts crosswise with a scissors seems to relax it enough to stay flatter during cooking.”

RECIPES:

Top of Form

Poached Salmon with Sauce:

Serves 4
1 ½ lbs. of salmon fillets or steaks
1 Tbs. lemon juice
Bring water to cover and lemon juice to a boil and reduce to an even simmer. Slide fish in gently and cook about 8-10 min. per pound until the flesh turns pale pink and flakes easily. Remove from heat, run fish under cold water to stop cooking and remove skin, and spine bone, if still there in steaks. Serve warm or chill on a covered plate at least 1 hour.
Sauce: Can be made the night before-keep covered and chilled
1/3 cup mayonnaise
2/3 cup sour cream
1 ½ tsp. dill weed or to taste*
Mix all ingredients well and allow flavors to meld several hours in the refrigerator. Add more dill to taste if needed. Serve dolloped over chilled fish.
*Note: Optionally substitute 1 peeled, seeded, finely chopped cucumber for the dill OR add it to the dill sauce.

Grilled Balsamic Salmon:

Serves 4
4 salmon fillets
1 tsp. dried dill weed
1/3 cup balsamic vinegar
Salt and Pepper to taste
Preheat grill or broiler, place rack about 4 inches from heat and lightly oil or place fish on a lightly oiled pan or piece of foil. Cook fish about 5-8 min. until lightly browned and it flakes easily. Brush liberally on both sides with vinegar; add salt and pepper to taste, plate and sprinkle with dill. Serve hot or room temperature.

Smoked Salmon and Spinach Terrine;

Serves 8-Adapted from Recipes 1-2-3 by Rozanne Gold
(1) 10 oz. box frozen chopped spinach-thawed and drained of excess water
1 lb. thinly sliced smoked salmon
½ lb. unsalted butter –softened-1 Tbs.in reserve
Freshly ground black pepper
Use the 1 Tbs. of butter to grease the bottom of a 1 ½ qt. loaf pan and line pan with plastic wrap. Blend the remainder of the butter and spinach to a paste. Place a layer salmon in the bottom of the pan, cover
with ¼ inch of spinach mix. Repeat layering twice, ending with fish, there should be 3 layers of spinach and 4 of salmon. Refrigerate at least3 hrs. Unmold by dipping the pan in hot water, if necessary and serve in 1inch slices. Garnish with slices of hard-boiled egg, or present with any style of eggs.

Home–Cured Gravlax:

Serves 8- From Recipes 1-2-3 by Rozanne Gold
2 ½ lb. side or thick piece from a side of salmon-skin on
¼ cup sugar
¼ cup kosher salt
1 ½ cups fresh dill
1 Tbs. freshly ground black pepper
Remove the small pin bones from salmon and pat dry. Place on a rimmed baking sheet. Combine the other ingredients and cover the flesh of the fish, rubbing the mix in. Cover with plastic wrap, put another baking sheet on top and weigh down with several cans. Refrigerate 72 hrs., pouring off water daily and rewrapping. To serve scrape off seasonings and slice on the bias at a 30 deg. angle, lifting slices off the skin. Serve with any form of eggs, on a bagel with cream cheese, or on buttered toast points with capers or onions and chopped hard-boiled eggs. Can also be used in pastas, casseroles and quiches.

Whole Grilled Salmon with Lemon and Dill:

Men are buy tadalafil online required to have a good life with no worries. You can stop your viagra brand 100mg hair from falling out by helping your body restore the essential nutrients to your organs and boost the functioning to keep you in good mood; maintain bone strength and healthy muscle mass. You can buy Kamagra online easily. / Kamagra has an active ingredient Sildenafil citrate viagra in india that prevents the decomposition of cGMP made in penile tissues for erection. If they lack self-assurance then the patients must http://deeprootsmag.org/2014/04/04/circling-back/ purchase cheap viagra stop the consumption of such medicinal products are considered to be subtle over the health of the person it happens to be that the two of them are not firm. Serves 15-20-From 500 3-Ingredient Recipes by Robert Hildebrand and Carol Hildebrand
1 whole salmon, cleaned and scaled-about 8-10 lbs.
2 bunches dill-a few sprigs reserved for garnish
6 lemons-2 quartered in reserve
1 cup olive oil
Rinse the salmon and pat dry, check all scales are removed. Thinly slice the remaining lemons. Lay out a large piece of heavy foil and spread one bunch of dill on a space the size of the salmon, cover with 1/3rd of the lemons, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the fish on top, salt and pepper the cavity and fill with another 1/3rd of the lemon slices. Cover the fish with the other bunch of dill, the remaining lemon slices, salt and pepper. Pour the oil over all and fold foil up and over the fish to seal, leaving some airspace. You might want to use a second piece of foil to make a secure package. Place the package on a medium heat grill and cook for 20 min.Turn package and grill another 20 min. Douse any flare-ups with water. Carefully lift the salmon from the opened package with 2 spatulas. Garnish with reserved dill and lemon quarters. Can be served at room temperature for a buffet.

Pickled Salmon:

Serves 4-6- From Recipes 1-2-3 by Rozanne Gold
4 large salmon steaks
6 Tbs. white vinegar
4 tsp. pickling spice
Place the salmon steaks in a skillet(or two)large enough to hold them easily and pour in 1cup water for each 2 steaks. Add the rest of the ingredients, cover the pan(s) with waxed paper, bring to a boil and lower heat to medium. Cook 4-5 min. turn over and cook 4-5 min. more. Remove fish, with liquid to a shallow dish, cool, then chill well. Drain to serve, keeps 4-5 days in the refrigerator. Excellent for picnics, goes with most summer sides.

Creamy Salmon Mold:

serves 8-10
2 envelopes unflavored gelatin –divided
1 ½ cups small curd cottage cheese
1 green bell pepper in small dice-divided
2 Tbs. grated onion or in tiny dice
8 oz. cooked salmon-or canned- flaked
½ cup celery in small dice
2 Tbs. lemon juice
¾ cup mayonnaise
½ cup cold water-divided
2/3 cups hot to boiling water-divided
½ Tbs. dried dill weed
Part 1-Place ¾ envelope gelatin in ¼ cup cold water allowing 5 min. to soften. Combine cheese, onion and ¼ cup pepper. Dissolve gelatin in 1/3 cup boiling water, add to cheese mix, stir well and place in the bottom of a rinsed, but not dried mold. Chill until almost set.
Part 2-Soften the remainder of the gelatin in ¼ cup cold water, and combine all the remaining ingredients, except the water, stirring well to get a uniform texture. Dissolve the gelatin in 1/3 cup hot water and add to the fish mix. Place on top of the cheese in the mold and chill well. Unmold to serve and slice.

NOTE: Salmon Salad:

Simply omit the cheese, gelatin and water from the above recipe. This is excellent as a sandwich filling, a tomato stuffing or simply mounded on lettuce.

Salmon Cheesecake:

Serves 10-From Recipes for Romance by Gail Greco
1/3 cup fine, unseasoned breadcrumbs
½ cup +3 Tbs. grated Parmesan cheese
(3 ½ ) 8oz. packages of cream cheese
4 eggs
1/3 cup heavy cream
3 Tbs. butter
½ cup EACH finely diced onion and red bell pepper
5 oz. smoked salmon
½ cup blue cheese
2 Tbs. chopped fresh tarragon
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Mix the Parmesan and breadcrumbs and sprinkle in a 10 inch springform pan. Rotate until the bottom and sides of the pan are evenly coated. Saute the onions and pepper in the butter until softened. Beat the cheese, eggs, and cream until smooth. Gently fold in 3 Tbs. Parmesan, blue cheese, fish and vegetables. Stir carefully until well combined, pour into the prepared pan, and shake gently to level. Wrap foil under to bottom of the pan and fold up along the sides, place in a larger pan with 2 inches of water bake in a preheated 300 deg. oven for 1 hr. 40 min. until golden. Turn off heat and leave in oven for 1 hr. then cool on a rack for 2 hr. before removing from the pan. Serve sliced at room temperature or chilled.

Smoked Salmon with Dill Mousse:

Serves 4- From Recipes 1-2-3 by Rozanne Gold
1 lb. smoked salmon, cut in 1/4 -1/2 inch pieces
2 bunches fresh dill—some fronds reserved for garnish
4 Tbs. olive oil
Cut heavy stems from dill to get 1 cup packed leaves, then chop finely. Puree while slowly adding oil, 2 Tbs. cold water and salt to taste. Press salmon into mounds about 2 ½ inches in diameter and 1 inch high in the center of 4 plates. Top with sauce and garnish with reserved dill.

NOTE: This can also be served with the sauces from Poached Salmon above.

May 31

KABOBS FOR FATHER’S DAY 2018

Ask anyone in the restaurant business the difference between Mother’s Day and Father’s Day and they’ll reply that reservations are needed for the first one. Funny, in a time when most women work outside the home, couples share chores and the majority of men know their way around the kitchen, the perception persists that women should be taken out and men be served a special dinner in their “castle.”

Whether you plan to eat at home or out, I’m sure you’re aware that the cost of food for a weekday meal, much less an ‘event’ one has gone up—again. Solutions, however, aren’t always about solving problems. Sometimes, they’re about finding ways to adjust to them. To answer the question of stretching the food dollar, especially for special occasions, I don’t advise the old method of simply adding another potato to a pot of stew. I ask you to consider the skewer and what it is used to create, the kabob.

Kabobs are really neat! They can be made to satisfy any food serving requirement from appetizers to dessert, to fit any occasion from casual to formal, are wide open to innovation and individuality, are able to adjust to any ethnic or dietary interpretation, and can be cooked on outdoor or indoor grills (see my blog Aug. 30, 2012), even in the oven or on the stovetop. Best of all kabobs rank right up there with stews and casseroles as a means of stretching meat, but are subtle about it. Like magicians, by allowing the meat to stand out, rather than hiding amidst other ingredients, it always seems more than ample. Even if you still want to use beef tenderloin, for example, you can always count on needing one quarter less the amount per every four portions, than you would have to buy if you served plated fillets. By adding other items to the skewers, you can reduce the amount even further. Another beauty of kabobs is that most recipes in all cuisines, call for a flavoring marinade which also tenderizes. This allows you to choose a less expensive cut. In fact that might be the better option, because very tender cuts can become too soft after marinating.

There are several ways to maintain the illusion of offering an abundance of meat. The size of the skewers makes a difference. For example, three cubes of meat on a 6 inch skewer accompanied by a skewer of the same length or slightly longer filled with vegetables, appears an ample portion and makes a nice presentation on a plate. Slices of meat can be folded over, or around a piece of vegetable or fruit, then skewered. Most often, though, I use 12 inch skewers with a minimum of 4 pieces of meat interspersed by vegetables. For entertaining, to save grill space and to assure everyone eats at the same time, I use 17 inch skewers. I may thread the vegetables alternately with the meat, or use separate skewers, depending on the cooking times, but I empty all the kabobs on a serving platter which is passed with a bowl of bedding foods, rice or perhaps greens and I have a couple of extra kabobs ready to go on the fire as we sit down so I can offer seconds.

It’s important, when threading kabobs, that all the ingredients have uniform cooking times. Otherwise use separate skewers. It’s also important when choosing ingredients and marinades to remember that, although kabobs are designed to cook quickly, about 20mis, on average, sugar can burn even faster.

Unlike barbeques, kabobs don’t require heavy basting sauces, but they do rely on delicate vegetables and light, often juice based marinades. Sometimes they even incorporate pieces of fruit. Fruits, juices and many bottled marinades contain sugar, so check nutritional information when planning kabobs. Most published recipes, however, have taken this fact into account.

Another advantage of kabobs is that they make clean-up easy, with no roasting pans or heavy pots to wash and only a few utensils. Moreover, prepping can be done, should be done, hours in advance and the actual cooking is quick and effortless. I don’t think any other type of meal offers so much time to relax and enjoy one’s family and friends. If you want to spend Father’s Day with Dad, this is your way to do it.

Before I move on to recipe suggestions, I want to add a few words about skewers. Bamboo skewers must be soaked before use or they will burn. A good way to have some always ready is to wet them then store them in the freezer. The thing to remember about metal skewers is that they become very hot and tend to cook the food from the center as well. If the aim is to serve the meat rare, then they need careful watching. With both types, the meat can stick to the skewer as it cooks and the solution is to spray the skewers first with cooking oil. Food tends to swivel on metal skewers as they’re turned on the grill, and I’ve found using a long spatula to gently roll them is better than lifting and turning. Another answer is to double skewer, but be sure the ingredients are stable and large enough to stand being pierced twice and still hold up during cooking.

So Happy Father’s Day to all you Dads out there and to the families who are enjoying it with you! I hope these recipes will enable you to relax and spend more time together.

BEEF
These are two recipes from my book. Dinners With Joy. The marinade can be used for the second dish as well as the first. In fact, I’ve found that poultry and pork can be substituted for beef in either recipe.
MY OWN KABOBS: Serves 4
2 lbs. Top round London broil
2 Tbs. red wine vinegar 20 cherry tomatoes
1/3 cup oil 2 green bell peppers-in 20 large pieces
1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce 2 large onions-cut in 8ths and separated into 20 pieces
2 tsp. dried thyme-divided 25 large button mushrooms- caps separated
2 tsp, dried rosemary-divided
2 tsp. garlic powder-divided (1) 7oz box long grain and wild rice
2 tsp. dried mustard –divided (5) 12 inch skewers
1tsp. paprika-divided
Trim the meat well and place in a non-reactive pan large enough to hold it comfortably. Mix the next 3 ingredients and pour over the meat. Mix the remaining ingredients in that column and sprinkle ½ over the meat. After 2 hrs., turn the meat and sprinkle the rest of the seasonings over the other side. Continue marinating and turning every few hours for at least 6, and no more than 10. Cut meat in 25 pieces. Reserve marinade. Thread the skewers, beginning and ending with meat, alternating with sets of the vegetables. I find they hold better if you use the natural curved shape of the peppers and onions as parentheses to encase the tomatoes and mushrooms, one of each per set and use the extra mushroom caps as stoppers at the end of the skewers.
Cook the rice according to box directions adding the chopped mushroom stems, using the reserved marinade to replace an equal amount of water. Keep the rice warmed while the kabobs cook.
Cook the kabobs according to your grill requirements, or under a broiler for about 10 mins. Be sure to place far enough from the heat source to prevent the vegetable skins from burning.

STEW ON THE GRILL: Serves 4
Originally intended for steak, this recipe can use less tender cuts, and a marinade, like the one above or other meats. In that case, forget the rice and use the marinade to baste, or simmer it and pour over the meat as a finishing sauce. The meat can be cut into individual portions, cooked whole and sliced or cut and skewered.
2 lbs. beef
2 large all-purpose potatoes – halved crosswise 1 tsp. dried basil
2 large onions – halved crosswise 1 tsp. dried oregano
2 medium zucchini-halved lengthwise 1 tsp. garlic powder
2 medium yellow squash-halved lengthwise 1 Tbs. oil
8 cherry tomatoes 1 tsp. lemon pepper
1 large green bell pepper- cut in 1/4s then into 1/8ths. Salt and pepper
(4) 6 inch bamboo skewers—-pre-soaked
Skewer the onions, one half per skewer, parallel the cut so they don’t separate into rings. Microwave 2 mins. Divide the peppers and tomatoes among the skewers. Microwave the potato halves 3 mins. rotating once. Mix the seasonings and oil. Coat all the vegetables and marinate at least 30 mins. The grill time will depend on the type and cut of meat you’ve chosen, but grill the vegetables along with the meat, allowing at least 15 mins. for them and checking for doneness. Move them to the side to stay warm, if they begin to get overdone.

CHICKEN
Chicken is the most popular meat for the grill, globally. It’s usually cooked on the bone, not as kabobs, but when it is, boneless, skinless pieces are often cut into strips and threaded on the skewers like ribbons, not into cubes and stacked like beef. This is the regular way of presenting it in Oriental satays but there are many, many recipes for them, with different sauces. Indeed there are so many recipes for grilled chicken in general, that I thought I’d give you some more unusual ones for a special day.

FOUR MARINADES: Each recipe calls for 2lbs. of boneless, skinless chicken cut into 1 ½ inch cubes and each provides about 6 servings.
1. Lebanese Style:
5 cloves garlic-minced
½ cup fresh lemon juice
2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme—1Tbs. dried
1 tsp. paprika
1/ cup oil
1 tsp. salt and pepper to taste ( optionally add ¼ tsp cayenne as well

)
2. Egyptian:
3 cloves garlic minced
½ cup oil
2 Tbs. ground cumin
1 Tbs. ground coriander
1 onion gated
½ tsp. cayenne pepper

3, Turkish:
6 Tbs. oil
4 cloves garlic- minces
(1) 8oz cup plain yogurt
1 Tbs. paprika
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
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¼ tsp. cayenne pepper
(1) lemon juiced
½ tsp. ground black pepper

3. Moroccan:
(1) lemon juiced
½ cup melted butter or oil
1 Tbs. paprika
2 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. ground ginger
½ tsp. cayenne pepper
Salt and pepper to taste
Make your chosen marinade and allow the chicken to absorb it, refrigerated, at least 6 hrs. or overnight.
Bring to room temperature before cooking. Thread on skewers alone or with vegetables. Use reserved marinade to baste as the meat cooks to avoid drying, but discard any unused. The choices of vegetables to intersperse with the meat are: bell peppers, onions, cherry tomatoes, zucchini , yellow squash,

Don’t forget, as I mentioned two posts ago for Memorial Day, an easy, quick marinade or just basting for chicken is a bottle of French, Caesar or Ranch salad dressing. Chicken done this way would be tasty paired with grilled or broiled peach halves and/or the vegetables suggested for the other marinades.

PORK:
Like chicken, pork is a popular meat for grilling and there are many recipes out there. So I’m only going to give two variations of one marinade to show how changing just three ingredients can alter a standard recipe to yield two very different tasting entrees. One thing they have in common is that both are examples of how kabobs can save on the amount of meat used. Normally, two pork tenderloins would be needed for 4 servings, but here only one of slightly over 1lb. will do.
The Basic Marinade The Altered One
½ cup oil
½ cup soy sauce (1) large lemon juiced + 1 Tbs. grated zest
2 Tbs. minced onion
1 tsp. minced garlic
2 Tbs. chopped crystallized ginger 3 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano OR 1 ½ Tbs. dried
2 Tbs. lime juice 2 Tbs. red wine
Allow the meat to marinate about 6 hrs. Cut in 1 to 1 ½ inch cubes and baste with the reserved marinade. In addition to the vegetables mentioned above to thread on skewers with the meat, sweet potatoes are a nice option. Simply cut them in half and microwave about 2 mins. until crisp tender, peel, cut into cubes and thread on the skewers with the other kabob ingredients.
Ham:
Though not usually thought of in the grilling category, ham makes great kabobs and the neat thing is that you can use leftovers from a roast or buy deli ham. For 4 servings:
4 ham steaks or thick slices
1 ½ cups cream sherry – not cooking sherry
½ cup oil
2 tsp. paprika
2 Tbs. Dijon mustard
2 Tbs. brown sugar
2 tsp. garlic powder
Combine all ingredients but meat in a bowl. Cut the ham into 1 ½ inch squares, and marinate for about 2 hrs. Stir frequently to turn. Thread on skewers with vegetables of choice and cook for about 10 mins, basting frequently with marinade. Heat any remaining marinade to make a finishing sauce. A nice addition is to cook additional skewers with cubes of fresh pineapple and optionally, Maraschino cherries to serve as accompaniments.

SEAFOOD KABOBS:
Shrimp:
Another meat with loads of recipes to choose from! I’m a fan of James Beard’s Barbecued Shrimp marinade, because the shrimp gains flavor yet is still compatible with a variety of accompaniments. No matter the recipe you choose, there are some general rules to follow.
1) Always buy raw shrimp if you’re planning to present them in any way other than cold with a dipping sauce or in a salad.
2) It’s hard to put other ingredients on skewers with shrimp because they cook so quickly and become rubbery when overdone.
3) Remember to thread them lengthwise, piercing them twice. Otherwise, they can easily break off the skewer and fall through the grill. They do well under a broiler, but cooked in a basket, they can overlap and be unevenly done.
4) Always de-vein the shrimp before cooking, even if you’re serving it in shell. Several brands offer shrimp with the shell split and the vein removed and you can do this yourself with a sharp knife or a manicure scissors. Failure to remove the vein could present a health hazard.
5) Buy shrimp with a maximum of 30 per pound. Any more are too small to skewer or grill well.
Beard’s Barbecue Marinade: Per 1 lb. shrimp
½ cup oil
1 clove minced garlic
2 Tbs. chili sauce
1 ½ Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
½ tsp. Tabasco sauce
1tsp. basil
½ tsp. salt
Mix all the ingredients in a nonreactive dish and marinate the shrimp for several hours tossing frequently. Cook by any method just until pink on both sides. Serve with any dipping sauce or with boiled reserved marinade and vegetables over rice. Alternatively, prepare other skewers with cubes of lightly oiled focaccia or olive bread sprinkled with rosemary and toast them. Serve those and the shrimp on a bed of lettuces, (and please, some arugula,) tossed in a light vinaigrette with sliced artichoke hearts, sliced black olives, capers and thin raw onion rings. Avocados and boiled eggs are also options.

Fish Kabobs: Serves 6—can be made with Swordfish, Marlin, Tuna or Salmon steaks (with slight variations)
2 lbs. fish steaks cut in 1 inch cubes
¾ cup oil
½ cup lemon juice
1 bay leaf crumbles
Tabasco sauce to taste
2 cucumbers cut In 1 inch slices
stuffed olives
Mix oil juice and seasonings in a bowl and marinate fish for at least two hours stirring frequently. Thread on skewers alternating fish with cucumbers and olives. Use reserved marinade to baste and reduced as a finishing sauce.
For Salmon: Substitute dill weed for bay leaf and Dijon mustard for Tabasco.
Grill or broil 10 min. turning once.

Scallops are wonderful served as kabobs, but their delicate flavor dosen’t stand up to marinades. They cook quickly and are best prepared with a light brush of melted butter, or spray of oil and a squirt of lime. They cook quickly, so other ingredients can’t readily share the skewer, yet they need room to be thoroughly done. The best way to build the kabob is to alternate the scallops with thin, lengthwise slivers of fresh lime. The only other possible additions to the skewers would be to place a thin slice o ham on top of each scallop as it’s put on the skewer.

May 24

PUFF PASTRY IS BOTH ELEGANT AND PRACTICAL

My post on appetizers reminded me how versatile puff pastry is and what fun it is to work with. It gives the impression of luxury but is actually very practical and can make even the humblest of fillings or flavoring ingredients appear elegant.

To share a trade secret with you, personal chefs working for one employer on a daily basis are expected to make everything from scratch. Personal chef service owners have many clients with monthly appointments. During each session, the chef delivers the food, preps it and cooks, usually, 4 or 5 entrees with a combined total of 20 servings, individually packaged for freezing. There isn’t time to make everything from scratch, so these chefs rely on using a few good commercial products.

One of my favorite go-tos is commercial, frozen puff pastry. As a rule, I make my own dough, because I l can make better than I can buy but I can buy better puff pastry than I can make. I don’t feel guilty either because Cordon Bleu trained Julia Child and Alma Lach both mention the option of choosing the excellent commercial brands available. Puff Pastry is notoriously time and labor intensive to make, with often ‘iffy’ results for the inexperienced.

However it is necessary to understand how it’s made to be able to work with it. The French call puff pastry dough ‘pate feuilletee’ or ‘pastry of leaves’. In fact, one class of dessert is called ‘Mille Feuille’ or ‘thousand leaves’ because it consists of multiple layers of delicate, flaky pastry. The ‘puff’ comes from air trapped between the layers which escapes during baking.

The best modernized directions I’ve seen for making puff pastry are in Dione Lucas ‘version in The Cordon Bleu Cookbook. They simplify the classic instructions but will give you an idea of the original.
‘Put 1 cup flour in the middle of a board, mix in 1 tsp. salt and making a well in the center add ½ to ¾ cup ice water and work to a paste. Roll out to a 12 inch square. Put 1 cup butter in the center of the bottom half and fold over. Chill for 15 min. Roll out with angled short strokes, turning the board around as you work to spread the butter over the surface between the layers, ending with the dough in a long strip. Fold 1/3rd over the center, and then fold the top 1/3rd over them. Roll again and chill, covered, for 30 min. Fold, roll, fold, roll and chill 3 more times. Chill for several hours, then either freeze or use.’

Carole Clements and Elizabeth Wolf-Cohen in Classic French Recipes For Special Occasions modernize the process a step further by using a processor. They change the flour to 1 ½ cups cake flour and lower the salt to ¼ tsp. They pulse the two to combine, then add the butter for 3 or 4 pulses and run the machine 5 sec. while slowly pouring in the water. The dough should look curdy with visible pieces of butter. Gather into a ball on a floured surface and chill 30 min. if the butter is soft. Roll out to a 16 x 6 inch rectangle and begin the folding and rolling sequences described in the above recipe.

Now you know why I prefer to buy puff paste over making it, and at today’s butter prices, I don’t even think it’s an expense. The folding process is tedious, but it creates those wonderful ‘leaves’ which also require some special considerations in working with them.

  • Always thaw puff pastry before cutting it or it will crack jaggedly, but don’t worry it refreezes
  • Never slice the pastry. Use a pizza cutter or the point of a sharp knife in a series of straight cuts
  • Don’t press scraps into a ball to save them. Gently press the edges together with a mist of water and roll to seal the seam. Freeze to keep.
  • When baking make sure the sheet is lightly oiled, greased or covered with parchment. For single layers, to insure that the top surface stays smooth and flat, cover with a second piece of parchment and weigh with another baking sheet or pie pan.
  • Puff pastry edges tend to be more even than pie dough, but trim them if necessary to form a straight ‘clean’ line before starting to cut shapes.
  • Before baking, it’s nice to ‘riff’ the edges every inch or so with a knife point to make sure they aren’t crimped and allow the air to escape and the layers to rise or ‘puff’.
  • Avoid using cookie cutters. They are too dull and they crimp the pastry edges, preventing the puff.
  • Always chill the pastry well before using, and always place in a preheated oven.

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Now that all the ‘Don’ts’ are out, let’s get into the fun side of working with puff pastry. I’m going to format this differently than most of my posts and concentrate on the pastry presentations rather than flavorings and/or fillings. So there will be more texts and suggestions, to illustrate how easy it is to use and all it can do and I’m listing the examples by shapes rather than recipes.

STRIPS

Parmesan Pinwheels: Makes 20-24

9 oz. puff pastry

1/3 cup finely grated Parmesan
2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh herbs of choice
1 egg beaten
Mix the cheese and herbs in a bowl. Roll the pastry out to an 8 inch square and sprinkle with half the cheese mix. Roll it again to a 10 inch square, brush with ¾ of the egg, sprinkle with the rest of the cheese mix and carefully roll it into a log. Seal the seam with the rest of the egg. Cut the log into ½ inch slices and place on a greased baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 425 deg. oven for 10 min. until golden and crisp. Cool on a rack. Store in an airtight tin.

Pinwheel Cookies: Makes 20-24
Substitute ¼ cup granulated sugar for the cheese and 1Tbs. ground cinnamon for the herbs. Follow the above directions. TIP: brushing the surface of the cookies with egg will make it shine.
NOTE- to make Bear Claws a.k.a. Pig’s Ears: Rather than rolling from one direction, do it from both sides in towards the center until they meet. Then slice as directed above and bake.

Bread Sticks: Makes 24
Roll dough to a 12 x 14 inch rectangle. Cover the surface of the dough with either option above, or ¼ cup sesame seeds, chopped nuts, sprinkled kosher salt or decorator’s sugar or just brush with egg to give a shine. Divide into (2) 7 inch pieces and cut each into (12) 6 inch strips. Twist the strips and stretching to keep them 6 inches long, place them on a parchment lined baking sheet, pressing the ends down so they don’t untwist in baking. Bake as directed above.

NOTE: In 3 inch lengths these are great appetizer snacks or dessert cookies. For dessert treats, bake them plain and dip 1/3 of each in melted chocolate. Cool and allow to harden.

RECTANGLES

Fresh Tomato Tarts: Makes 6- From Party Food by Parragon Publishing
9 oz. puff pastry
¼ cup pesto sauce

2 pts. Cherry tomatoes-halved OR 6 plum tomatoes sliced
Salt and pepper
1 egg beaten

Fresh herbs of choice for garnish
Roll the pastry out to a 12 x 10 rectangle on a floured board. Cut in half to make (2) 5 inch pieces, then cut them to make (6) 5 x 6 inch pieces. With a fork, score the edges of the pieces and brush with egg. Spread the centers with the pesto and top with the tomatoes, cut side up. Season lightly and bake in a preheated 400 deg. oven for 15-20 min. until puffed and golden. Serve garnished with herbs.

Mille Feuille: Serves 8-From Everyday Meals by Bon Appetit
1 pkg. puff pastry
1 egg beaten

2 Tbs. sugar
Cooking oil spray
Parchment paper
On a floured board roll the pastry out to 8 x 16. Cut into (16) 2×4 inch rectangles. Place on a parchment lined baking sheet, brush with egg and sprinkle with sugar. Coat another piece of parchment with the spray and place oil side down on the pastry. Cover with a second baking sheet and put in a preheated 400 deg. oven. Bake for 20-25 min. Cool. To serve place 1 rectangle on a plate, spoon fresh fruit, fruit compote, pie filling or stewed fruit over it. Top with another rectangle, at an angle looks nice, and spoon whipped cream or ice cream on the side.

Napoleons: Serves 12 – This is a modern, low-fat version of a French classic
1 sheet puff pastry
8 oz. cream cheese
8 oz. whipped topping
3 Tbs. toasted, chopped almonds

1 can chocolate frosting

1 egg beaten

Roll pastry into a 12×12 inch square and divide into (3) 4 x12 inch strips. Prepare and cook as directed for Mille Feuille and cool. Beat whipped topping and cheese until smooth, divide in half and add nuts and extract to half. Spread, spoon or pipe the cheese mix with the nuts down one strip of pastry, cover with a 2nd strip and spread, spoon or pipe with the plain cheese mix. Spread the frosting on the 3rd strip and place on top. Chill several hours until hardened. When ready to serve, slice into 1x 4 inch slices and place flat on the plates.

SQUARES
There are lots of interesting ways to use this shape.

Appetizers:

For appetizers simply cut the pastry into 3 inch squares and place a scant 1-1 ½ tsp. filling in the center; fold over diagonally and using egg as a sealant, press the edges together. Cut a small slit in the top of each and bake in a preheated 375 deg. oven for about 20 min. until golden. Can be made and frozen 1-2 weeks ahead, thaw before cooking. Suggestion for fillings:

  • Meat pate-liver, ham, chicken, crab or shrimp.
  • Thawed, chopped spinach mixed with a little cream cheese and nutmeg to taste
  • Sautéed chopped onion and mushrooms with a dash of Teriyaki sauce for flavor

Turnovers: Serves 4

For these, roll a sheet of puff pastry into a 12×12 inch square and divide in 4 equal pieces. Place about ¼ cup filling in the center and fold over diagonally, using egg to seal the edges. Slash 3 vent holes in the top and bake on a parchment lined baking sheet in a preheated 375 deg. oven for 30 min. until golden.

Turnovers are wonderfully useful. Filled with meat and/or cheese they can replace sandwiches.

However, they’re better known as a dessert and one of my favorites, filled with fruit, washed with egg and sprinkled with sugar to give a lovely, sweet glaze. Some suggestions for fillings are;

  • Slices of ham and cheese, with a smear of mustard, or slices of chicken or turkey, and a touch of chutney.
  • Cooked ground meat with optional seasonings.
  • Diced fruit, tossed with a bit of cornstarch, a sliver of butter and some sugar
  • Cooked fruit compote
  • Ready-made pie filling

Cornish Pastie

My Grandmother couldn’t resist improving on a traditional family recipe. A Cornish Pastie is essentially a 2-3 entrée sized turnover filled with drained cooked meat and vegetables, or frankly, stew. The drained broth from the stew pot is thickened, seasoned and made into gravy, which is passed on the side. Nana replaced regular pie crust with egg washed puff pastry which arrived at table golden and gleaming. She simply rolled it out to a 12 inch square and cooked it according to the turnover directions above, allowing 1 Pastie per 2-3 people. It turned a weekday dinner into a special meal.

Square Stars: Serves 6

These can be made in many sizes, but for this example: roll the pastry to a 10 x 15 inch rectangle and divide into (2) 5 inch strips, then cut them into 3rds making (6) 5 inch squares. Using a glass or jar lid, lightly indent a 2 inch circle in the center of each. With a square directly in front of you, calculate, or visualize the length of one side in 1/3s. (For that size piece, it’s about 1 ½ inches.) Now make a diagonal cut across the middle 1/3rd from the rim of the center indented circle to the outside edge of the square and curl the pointed piece under the top end of the slash over the corner behind it. Repeat with the other 3 sides and bake in a preheated 425 deg. oven for 10-12 min. until golden. Cool and fill the centers with any number of options; fresh or cooked fruit with custard, whipped topping and/or ice cream, tuna or another salad, a dip or pate, even a creamed entrée in place of toast.

CIRCLES

Patti Shells

The best known of this shape are Patti shells, which like the puff pastry sheets are available in the freezer section of most markets and of such high quality that considering other options is ridiculous. Just follow the directions for oven temperatures and cooking times. These are excellent vehicles for creamed entrees, Chicken a la King, Creamed Chipped Beef, with pearl onions, mushrooms and peas added to upgrade it. They’re also good with Asian dishes. I had a Vietnamese friend who hated rice but served the most amazing dishes in Patti shells. I remember a wonderful chicken curry—-

The shells also do dessert duty, filled with fresh fruit, cooked fruit compote or even canned pie filling (just cook the filling in a microwave about 5 min. first and then chill it or serve warm)

Galettes

Puff pastry makes a wonderful Galette crust. Roll out a sheet to a 12 x 12 inch square and round off the corners. Use a plate to indent an 8 inch circle in the center, and fill with fruit. Lift up the 2 inch margin and pleat it to enclose the fruit. Place on a parchment covered baking sheet and bake in a 375 deg. oven 30-40 min. until bubbling and golden.

NOTE; This is great way to showcase the summer stone fruits. Don’t slice, halve plums or apricots, peeled peaches, dust them with cornstarch, add a few slivers of butter and top with a bit of sugar. They pile neatly in the crust and it’s easy to hold them in place while folding up the sides. It adds to the appearance to brush the sides with egg and sprinkle with sugar.

Pie Shells

I knew a woman who, wanting to monetize her hobby, rented a tiny, tiny shop in a food mall. She hung 3 signs; one over the door: The Pie Lady, a second on the door: Open 10 A.M-6 P.M. Friday and Saturday and a third in the window: Pies Made on Order Only. The first 2 weekends, on the stated days, she offered slivers of several different pies. From then on she had a waiting list and had to hire help in a couple of months. Everyone raved about her custard pies, especially Lemon Meringue. Her secret was making the shells of puff pastry. They were light, tasty and remained crisp longer even refrigerated. Her trick was to roll it thin, about ¼ inch, brush with beaten egg, poke some holes in the bottom with a fork, and cover it with oiled parchment paper weighted with rice, dry beans or pie weights, even another pie plate. Bake in a 450 deg. preheated oven about 12 min.

May 3

BONELESS, SKINLESS CHICKEN ANSWERS EVERY NEED-PART II

Last week I started a discussion on the convenience value of skinless, boneless chicken breasts and thighs. They get a 5-star rating on just about every scale. The price is reasonable, they’re prepared for any recipe, cook quickly and shine in dishes from casual to formally elegant. Also, don’t forget, they’re acceptable substitutes in many recipes for turkey, pork and veal tool. In fact, they’re so versatile it’s conceivable to have them every day for several years and not repeat a recipe, as the mother of my daughter’s classmate was rumored to do.

This is especially true considering the limitless range these cuts offer for creativity, particularly when working with pan sauces, as pointed out last week. However, for those of us who like to take a break before diner and let the oven do the work rather than stand by the stove, they also offer a wide range of choices. Actually, oven cooking also allows for a lot of improvisation, it just understandably takes a bit more time to cook than sautéing does.

Most of the recipes for this method, work equally well with bone in chicken parts. So I’m going to quote from last week’s post to examine that option. To bone chicken, you need a sharp knife. I like a fillet knife, but a beginner might feel more control with a paring knife. The breast is simply a matter of placing the knife under the ribs and trimming them away from the meat with even slices. Remove the entire rib cage by slicing through the shoulder joint.

The thigh bone can first be sliced away from the meat on either side of the shank. Trim the bone from the meat at the rounded end. Holding that end up, separate the entire shank and cut around the larger end to free the bone.

It isn’t really cost effective to bone the breast parts, especially when feeding a family, not with the frequency of the BOGO sales on the prepped ones. The boned thighs, however, usually cost considerably more than bone-in and are less often on sale. Considering that they’re interchangeable with the breast meat in the recipes, it’s simply a matter of taste, removing the bone is a skill worth cultivating, especially when feeding a large family or entertaining.

The recipes below follow the same pattern as those in last week’s post. The first two dishes are classics associated with other meats, Veal Parmesan, and Pork Chops Basil. The second two are recipes devised for boneless, skinless chicken and the final two point the way to innovation. With three of the four spring holidays yet ahead, one a long weekend, it’s worthwhile to consider these menu options when meal planning.

RECIPES

Chicken Parmesan: Serves 4
This may be a little different from most recipes, but it’s the one I learned from friends in Florence, only with veal. An example of the how seamless the substitution can be.
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
¼ cup flour
2 Tbs. butter
2 Tbs. oil
(1) 4 oz. can mushrooms-stems and pieces-drained
(2) 8 oz. cans tomato sauce
4 oz. Mozzarella cheese- in thin slices or coarsely grated
¼ cup Parmesan cheese grated
Dredge chicken by shaking in a plastic bag with the flour, one piece at a time. Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat, and brown the meat lightly on both sides @ 6 min. total for the chicken, depending on thickness. Add oil as needed to prevent sticking. Remove meat to an ovenproof pan or dish that holds the meat close, but not overlapping. Sauté the mushrooms for 30 seconds in the pan juices, and turn off the heat. Pour in 1 can of the tomato sauce and deglaze the pan, pour it, with the mushrooms, over the meat. Repeat deglazing with second can of sauce. Cover, and seal the meat dish with foil. Bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for 40 min. Remove pan and turn on broiler. Carefully, mindful of the steam, remove the foil, and spread the mozzarella evenly over the meat. Sprinkle the parmesan on top and broil until bubbly and beginning to brown.

Chicken Basil: Serves 4
This is an old family favorite. It can be refrigerated for three days, or even frozen for two weeks, after the baking, so it can be made ahead and quickly ready on a rushed night.
4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
½ cup flour
2 Tbs. garlic powder
3 Tbs. dried basil
½ a small can frozen orange juice concentrate mixed with water to equal the level of meat in the pan or apricot nectar undiluted
¼ cup cream sherry
Pound the meat between two pieces of plastic to an even thinness. Sprinkle half the garlic powder and half the basil in the bottom of an oven proof dish or pan that will hold the thighs closely but not overlapping. Dredge the thighs in the flour, by shaking in a plastic bag, one at a time, making sure they’re well coated. Place in pan, and sprinkle the rest of the garlic and basil over them. Cover and seal the pan with foil. Bake, preferably at 250 degrees for 1 ¼ hr., but acceptable at 350 degrees for 45 min. Remove from oven, turn on broiler, and lift foil. Dilute orange juice with the sherry and just enough water to come almost to the top level of the meat in the pan, and pour over or mix nectar with sherry. Broil until thighs brown and the sauce thickens.

Seasoned, Crunchy Chicken: Serves 4-Adapted from Family Living’s Hooray for Chicken
1 cup slightly crushed panko or whole wheat breadcrumbs
2 tsp. salt or lemon pepper
4 chicken thighs
½ cup sour cream
1 ½ tbs. lemon juice
2 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp. celery salt
½ tsp. EACH garlic powder, onion powder and pepper
1 ½ tsp. paprika
1 tsp. dried parsley
2 Tbs. melted butter
lemon wedges-optional
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Chicken Cordon Bleu, Kiev and Alamo; Each serves 4
4 chicken boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 cup fine breadcrumbs
1/3 cup melted butter
Pound chicken between two sheets of plastic wrap and flatten to about ¼ inch thickness overall. Preheat oven to 350 deg. and lightly grease a pan large enough to hold 4 rolls comfortably or a baking sheet.
When filling the chicken be sure the smooth skin side is to the outside. Put the filling in the center and, folding the outside edges in to contain it, if necessary, roll the meat over the stuffing, secure with a toothpick and coat with the butter, then dredge in the breadcrumbs. Place the roll seam side down on the pan and bake for 40 min. Optionally, simply place in the pan, seam side down, sprinkle with seasoned crumbs and bake.
Cordon Bleu:
4 slices deli ham
4 oz. sliced Swiss cheese in 8 slices
Put a slice of ham topped with one of cheese in the center of each breast. Roll the meat over, optionally coat with butter, dredge in crumbs and place in the pan. Cook for 20 min. top with another slice of cheese and finish baking.
Kiev:
¼ cup butter-softened
1 clove garlic chopped
1 Tbs. chopped parsley
¼ tsp. EACH tarragon, salt and pepper
Mix the above ingredients, form into a roll about 3 inches long and freeze for 1 hr. or until hard. Cut the butter into 4 pieces, place one in the center of each piece of meat, roll, in this case, folding in the outside edges in because the butter filling will leak out as it melts, optionally coat in butter, bread and bake.
Alamo:
8 oz. Monterey Jack or Pepper Jack cheese in 8 slices
2 Tbs. taco seasoning mix
Mix the taco seasoning with the breadcrumbs. Place a piece of cheese on each chicken breast, roll, optionally coat in butter, dredge in crumbs and bake.

Chicken in Cumberland Sauce: Serves 4*
4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
(1) 14 oz. jar of red currant jelly
1/3 cup spicy brown mustard-or to taste
¼ cup toasted, slivered almonds
Melt the jelly in a saucepan, mix with the mustard and pour over the chicken in a lightly greased pan. Bake, covered at 350 deg. for 40 min. Uncover and bake 5-10 min. more until juices run clear and sauce is desired consistency. Serve garnished with almonds.
*NOTE: This recipe works with most flavors of jams and jellies both in the oven or as a pan sauce as illustrated by the Chicken in Cherry Sauce last week.. The mustard is always ‘to taste’ and may be replaced by horseradish, hot sauce or other condiments. A good example is the well-known Orange Chicken in which orange marmalade is combined with soy sauce.

Baked Walnut Chicken: Serves 4*
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs
1 cup panko
½ cup finely chopped walnuts
1 tsp. garlic powder
Salt and pepper
½ cup melted butter
Mix panko and nuts with seasonings. Coat chicken in butter and roll in nut mixture. Arrange meat in a lightly greased pan that holds them comfortably and pour any remaining butter over. Bake at 350 deg. for 1 hr.

*Alternative Recipe
Pecan Chicken: Serves 4-From Family Living’s Hooray for Chicken
4 pieces boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs
¼ cup EACH Dijon mustard and honey
1 cup finely chopped pecans
Mix mustard and honey, coat chicken and then roll the pieces in the nuts. Bake in a lightly greased pan at 350 deg. for 30 min. or until juices run clear.

 

Apr 26

BONELESS, SKINLESS CHICKEN ANSWERS EVERY NEED-PART I

My daughter had a classmate in Junior High who joked about his family having chicken every night for dinner but he was O.K. with it. He said his Mother was ‘Master of 1000 chicken recipes’ and each night was different. I never knew the woman well enough to discuss food, but I’d lay odds she depended on boneless, skinless chicken breasts and thighs. As chicken is the most versatile of meats, those are the most versatile of cuts.

In addition to serving in dishes cooked in all ways, they substitute for turkey, pork and veal in many recipes and offer an open canvas for creativity in working with pan sauces. They can be boned at home or purchased that way, but once done, need no further preparation. They cook quickly enough to rival frozen entrees or take out delivery, especially if flattened first. They keep well frozen, but best when individually wrapped and often sauced dishes featuring them can be partially cooked, frozen and finished before serving. Finally, they shine in presentations from the week night, to the casual get-together to the formally elegant. What more can one ask of a cut of meat?

To bone chicken, you need a sharp knife. I like a fillet knife, but a beginner might feel more control with a paring knife. The breast is simply a matter of placing the knife under the ribs and trimming them away from the meat with even slices. Remove the entire rib cage by slicing through the shoulder joint. The thigh bone can first, be sliced away from the meat on either side of the shank. Trim the bone from the meat at the rounded end. Holding that end up, separate the entire shank and cut around the larger end to free the bone.

It isn’t really cost effective to bone the breast parts, especially when feeding a family, not with the frequency of the BOGO sales on the prepped ones. The boned thighs, however, usually cost considerably more than bone-in and are less often on sale.

The recipes below are chosen to show the variety of uses for these cuts of chicken and to perhaps spark some culinary adventures. The first two, restaurant favorites, are examples of chicken as an alternate for other meats. I was amused, but not surprised recently to hear many younger people didn’t know they are/were classic veal dishes.

The second two recipes show how boneless and skinless chicken parts can shine in dishes created just for them. The last two illustrate the most often used approaches to creating a pan sauce. Plus, I’m including some easy, quick pan sauce recipes to get you on the way. You’ll see they follow a pattern.

Two tips before going on. First, though either will do quite well, the thighs are the best choice to replace turkey or pork in a recipe, the breasts are better for veal. Second, placing the chicken between layers of plastic wrap and pounding to an equal thickness, with a mallet or rolling pin, insures not only even cooking, but quicker cooking and frozen, individually wrapped, quicker thawing as well. That’s a real bonus for the working parent on a week night or when unexpected guests show up.

RECIPES

Chicken Piccata: Serves 4
4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts
2 Tbs. butter
2 Tbs. oil
2 lemons
¼ cup white wine+ to equal ½ cup
¼ cup flour
Fresh or dried parsley to garnish – optional
Cut 2 slices from the center of each lemon and juice the rest, combine with enough wine to make ½ cup-set aside. Melt 1 Tbs. oil and 1 Tbs. butter over medium heat, in a skillet. Lightly dust the chicken with the flour and brown in the skillet, adding more oil and butter as needed, about 5 min. per side. Remove chicken and brown lemon slices lightly on both sides-remove. Deglaze pan with wine and juice mixture, return chicken to pan, top each breast with a slice of lemon, cover and cook over low about 8-10 min. Serve breasts with sauce, garnished with a lemon slice each and parsley if using.

Chicken Marsala: Serves 4
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
¼ cup flour
2 Tbs. butter
2 Tbs. oil
1 small onion thinly sliced
(1) 8 oz. jar mushroom caps— or 4 oz. fresh sliced
½ cup Marsala wine
Lightly dust chicken with flour. Melt 1 Tbs. butter and 1 Tbs. oil in a skillet and brown chicken on both sides, adding oil and butter as needed. Remove chicken from pan, add onion and mushrooms and cook until onion softens. Add wine and deglaze, return chicken to pan, cover and cook over low heat about 10 min. until sauce thickens a bit. Serve breasts topped with onions, mushrooms and sauce.

Greek Island Chicken: Serves 4- From Eat Up and Slim Down by Jane Kirby and David Joachim
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
2 Tbs. oil
1 onion thinly sliced
1 clove garlic mashed
3 oz. sliced mushrooms
1 cup white wine
8 oz. jar marinated artichoke hearts
1/3 cup chopped dry-pack sun dried tomatoes
¼ cup sliced black Greek olives
1 tsp. lemon pepper
1 tsp. honey
½ tsp. EACH dried oregano and cinnamon
Salt
½ cup crumbled feta cheese
4 lemon wedges or slices
Brown chicken on both sides in oil. Remove and add onion and garlic to skillet. Cook until onion softens and add mushrooms. Cook 10 min. and add everything but the feta and lemon, including the chicken. Cover and cook over low 15 min. uncover and cook 5 min. until sauce thickens and chicken juices run clear. Plate garnished with cheese and lemon wedges on the side.

Chicken with Kiwi, Lime and Coconut: Serves 4
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
4 kiwi peeled and diced-divided use
1 lime zested and juiced
1 Tbs. sherry vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste
1 Tbs. oil
2 Tbs. butter
5 oz. canned coconut milk
3 tbs. heavy cream –optional
2 scallions sliced thin
Freshly ground pepper
Chopped parsley to garnish
Pound the chicken between sheets of plastic wrap and marinate with half the kiwi, vinegar, salt and pepper, and 1 Tbs. lime juice for 30 min.-2 hrs. Discard marinade and brown chicken in butter and oil about 5 min. per side, adding honey toward the end as the pan liquid reduces but be careful it doesn’t burn. Add the lime zest, scallions, coconut milk, pepper, remaining kiwi and cream, if using and simmer gently over low heat about 6-8 min. until chicken is cooked through and sauce thickens slightly. Serve garnished with parsley.

Chicken with Cherry Sauce: Serves 4
4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
2 Tbs. oil
2 Tbs. butter
¼ cup flour
¼ cup white wine
(1) 10 oz. jar whole black cherry preserves
1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
Ground black pepper
Brown the chicken in the butter and oil, starting with 1 Tbs. each and adding more as needed. Remove to a plate. Add jam, mustard and pepper to the skillet over low heat, stirring in just enough wine to make a sauce. Deglaze and return chicken to the pan, cover and cook 6-10 min. until chicken is fully cooked, adding more wine as needed to maintain sauce consistency. Taste for seasoning and serve chicken with sauce spooned over.

Chicken Dijon: Serves 4
4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts or thighs
2 Tbs. butter
2 Tbs. oil
½ cup thinly sliced scallions
½ cup white wine
3 Tbs. Dijon mustard
1/8 tsp. EACH crushed, dried rosemary and thyme
1 ½ cups heavy cream
Dried parsley for garnish-optional
Brown chicken in 1 Tbs. each butter and oil, adding more as needed until cooked. Remove and add scallions with wine and mustard, simmering until liquid is reduced by half. Add herbs, chicken and cream and simmer gently, stirring until sauce thickens enough to coat the spoon. Serve with parsley garnish.

Basic Pan Sauce Recipe: Yield ½ cup
1 Tbs. oil or pan fat
1 cup liquid- broth or wine are suggested.
2 tsp. butter
1 Tbs. chopped fresh herbs or equal strength dried
Salt and pepper
To the 1 Tbs. oil or fat in the pan add the liquid, deglaze the pan. Raise the heat to high, adding the herbs and any juice from the meat. Boil 2 min. to reduce, season with salt and pepper and add the butter, stirring until smooth.

Lemon, Goat Cheese Sauce: Yield 1 ½ cups- From Eat Up and Slim Down by Jane Kirby and David Joachim
Brown 1 Tbs. butter and stir in 1 Tbs. flower to make a roux or smooth paste. Add 1 ½ cups chicken broth and stir until sauce boils. Add 4-6 oz. goat cheese and ½ tsp. grated lemon peel and cook, stirring until sauce is smooth and thick.

Mushroom Sauce: Yield 1 cup- From Eat Up and Slim Down by Jane Kirby and David Joachim
Saute 1 ½ cups sliced mushrooms and ¼ cup diced onion in 1 Tbs. oil until soft. Add 2 Tbs. soy sauce or balsamic vinegar, ½ cup broth and 1 Tbs. crushed rosemary or thyme. Cover and cook 2 min. Uncover and cook until slightly thickened.

Pepperonata: Yield 1 cup – From Eat Up and Slim Down by Jane Kirby and David Joachim
In 1Tbs. oil sauté ¼ cup chopped ham and ¼ cup diced onion over low heat for 4 min. Add ½ cup sliced red and/or green bell peppers, ¼ tsp. dried thyme and ½ cup broth. Cover and cook until peppers are tender. As an optional finishing touch, add 2 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley.

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Apr 19

NO STRESS RECIPES FOR MOTHER’S DAY

 

Ever since Mother’s Day was declared a holiday in 1914, its purpose has been to provide Mother with a day free from work. The main focus is to present her, as guest of honor, with a lovely dinner, a tradition which has grown over the past century. In fact, Mother’s Day has become the busiest day in the year for restaurants.

 

However, times have changed and most mothers now work out of the house or away from it, rather than IN it. Dinner out isn’t the special treat it used to be. Many families want to personalize Mother’s Day by taking an active role in the dinner. The idea is fine but the success of the venture depends on the kitchen experience but more importantly the attitude, of the others involved. Without proper guidance this can be a disaster and a nightmare for Mother, not a delight.

 

‘Proper’ in this case means ‘responsible’ and even a kitchen novice can pull off a great dinner if they are serious about doing it, have a bit of patience and can read. I realized this several years ago when two neighborhood children heard I was ”in the cooking business” and asked if I’d help them make a nice day for their mother, while their father was deployed in the military overseas. The experience inspired No Stress Recipes for Mother’s Day, a book of adult pleasing recipes modified for easy preparation and for child-friendly participation with monitoring.

 

That holiday’s menu was so successful, that their father appealed to me the next year. He had been transferred and the family was moving within days. He asked me to plan a Mother’s Day menu that would give his wife a break, but wouldn’t interrupt their schedule by stopping to go out or require them to unpack any utensils. Menus and recipes for both years are in the book as illustrations of the fact that lovely meals can be made even by children with a little help and a lot of equipment isn’t always necessary.

 

The recipes in the book cover not just dinner but all three meals plus desserts, to give Mother a full day away from the kitchen. Dishes include: Baked Eggs in a Cloud, Fast Fruit Crisp, Breakfast Turnovers, Greek Pita Pockets, Spaghetti Squash Primavera, Tuna and Bean Salad, Pork Loin with Apricot Glaze, Chicken in Orange Sauce, Salmon with Mustard, Chocolate No-Cook Bars, Easy Berry Angle Cake #1 and #2, Zebra Cake and many more to choose from-all simple to make and delicious to eat.

 

So if you want to try making a dinner for Mother at home or simply want to add some restaurant quality, simplified recipes to your repertoire and/or get the family involved in making delicious meals here’s your chance. No Stress Recipes for Mother’s Day is the guide you need. Find it on this site’s Bookshelf and Kindle. Price $3.99

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Apr 12

SINGLE SERVING BERRY DESSERTS FOR SPRING

The Spring holidays are so close together, especially if Easter and Passover fall later in April, they almost collide. However, they lack the PR, the decorations, the songs and especially the networking satellite parties to bind them into a ‘Season’. The dinners also lack the traditions of the winter holidays, eating out is optional and meals at home don’t focus on family recipes. What the dinners do have in common, even in restaurants, as we have discussed the past few weeks, is the seasonal craving for fresh foods and lighter preparations.

Desserts follow the same pattern of desiring lighter preparations, with the additional preference for individual presentations, rather than the large, elaborate concoctions of winter dinners. Shortcakes, tarts, fruit syrups are in demand now. Berries have always been associated with spring and are a perfect size to fill small containers, pastry or otherwise. Fortunately, they are also prime examples of the fruits we now have available all year.

An added bonus to these berry desserts is that they can be prepped ahead and quickly assembled at serving time, as well as saved should anyone decline a sweet, as often happens in spring, with summer coming. The cooked preparations have many uses as explained below, following the shortcake recipes, and keep for at least week refrigerated. The cooked cases do well if kept airtight, or if frozen, unthawed. Any frozen pastry should be cooked if thawed.

A dash of lemon juice perks up the berries and helps to keep their color fresh. Sliced banana was often used to create a flavor contrast in dishes featuring fresh berries and to give bulk (read: ’stretch’) I prefer kiwi slices. Kiwi’s texture is lighter and more compatible; its sweet-tart taste adds zing to that of the berries and its color lends an added seasonal touch. Also it should be understood that raspberries can substitute in part in any of these recipes in equal quantity, but they don’t keep as well.

The recipes below are for easy to prepare single serving cold desserts, but more important, they are able to be prepped ahead, to be stored and assembled later. A perfect fit for those spring holidays when we want to offer something nice but don’t have a great deal of time to devote to organizing and cooking a big meal.

RECIPES

Shortcake
Biscuits: Yield 12
2 cups flour
1 cup milk
2 ½ Tbs. softened butter
4 tsp. baking powder
1/3 cup light brown sugar
2 Tbs. granulated sugar
Cinnamon
Mix first 5 ingredients well with a spoon. The dough will be moist and sticky. Drop by soup spoons onto a lightly greased baking sheet in 12 well separated mounds. Sprinkle top with granulated sugar and cinnamon. Bake in a preheated 400 deg. oven 15-17 min. until bottoms have tanned edges. Remove from pan with a spatula and allow to cool completely on a rack. Store covered.
Fillings
Strawberry: Allow 1>1 ½ cups berries per serving. If serving soon, reserve a few berries for decoration. Slice berries in a bowl, add enough sugar to sweeten and leave to marinate at room temperature until juices form a syrup, then chill until serving. If making ahead, per 2 cups berries, combine berries with ½ cup apple juice, 3 Tbs. lime juice and just enough sugar to sweeten in a saucepan. Stir over to low heat just until berries soften, cool and chill until serving.
Blueberry: For 6 servings allow 5 cups berries
Sort berries and reserve 1 cup of the best
¼ cup sugar
1 tsp. cornstarch
1/8 tsp. cinnamon
Squirt of lemon juice-1/2 tsp.
Toss 4 cups berries with the sugar and cornstarch. Place everything but reserved berries in a saucepan and stir over low heat, mashing lightly with a spoon, until berries soften. Remove and cool. Reserved berries can be added to the cooked ones or saved for decoration.
Note: This recipe does make a compote and can be used in many ways:
1) top with any crumb topping to make a crisp and bake
2) Use to fill a pie
3) Dump Cake: Place ingredients in a lightly greased 9”x13”pan. Cover with a box of yellow cake mix, and pour over ½ cup melted butter. Bake in a 350 deg. oven for 30 min. until light brown. Spoon to serve.
Assembly
Slice biscuits in half and spoon prepared berries on bottom half, optionally add whipped cream or topping. Replace top, spoon over more berries and garnish with whipped cream or topping or simply garnish with the cream and decorate with reserved berries.
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Other Uses for Shortcake Filling
1) As a topping: For ice cream, cake or panna cotta. Slices of pound or angel food cake are especially good with a fruit sauce topping. For a special touch, lightly toast the cake slices first.
Easy Panna Cotta: Serves 4-From Recipes1-2-3 by Rozanne Gold
1 ½ cups heavy cream
3 ½ Tbs. sugar
1 ½ tsp. powdered gelatin
Sprinkle gelatin over 3 Tbs. cold water in a cup- Give 3 min to soften
Heat cream and sugar over low heat until sugar dissolves
Dissolve gelatin in cream, over heat, whisking constantly
Pour into (4) 5oz. cups. Cool to room temperature, then chill
Remove Panna Cotta from cups, and plate on top of fruit
2) As a filling: Sandwich between layers of cake or meringue, or in place of fresh fruit in tart shells
3) In Parfaits and Compotes: These prepared fruits are very decorative, alone or mixed with fresh fruits, especially in glass serving pieces layered with any or all of the following: ice cream, whipped cream or topping, pudding, cake pieces, cookie crumbs and chopped nuts.

FILLED CUPS AND SHELLS

A General Recipe: Serves 12
8 oz. lemon yogurt
1/3 cup all fruit preserves
1 ½ cups mixed berries
Whipped cream or topping for garnish
Spread 1 tsp. preserves in the bottom of each shell. Mix 1 cup berries with the yogurt and divide among the shells. Top with remaining fruit and garnish with topping.

Shell Choices
1) Wonton Cups: Makes 24 –From Eat Up and Slim Down by Jane Kirby and David Joachim
24 wonton wrappers
2Tbs. melted butter
Line a wrapper in each cup of a 12 cup or (2) 6 cup muffin pans. Brush with butter. Lay a 2nd wrapper diagonally on the first and brush with butter. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven for 10 min. Cool, then remove from pan.
2) Puff pastry shells or phyllo cups; These are sold frozen in most supermarkets. As a tip, sprinkle the puff pastry shell liberally with sugar before baking as a decorative touch. Fill with fresh or prepared fruit topped with cream or use the recipe above. Only thaw these items as needed and don’t attempt to refreeze any uncooked ones. Store airtight.
3) Tortillas: Spread each of 4 flour tortillas with cream cheese and then place about 2 soup spoons of the drained prepared fruit down the center. Reserve juice. Roll tortilla and place seam side down on a baking sheet. Bake 8 min. in a preheated 425 deg. oven. Cool, chill, optionally garnish with whipped topping and drizzle with reserved juice.
4) Cake Cups: Found in most supermarkets. Fill in any of the above ways.
5) Pastry Dough: Make or buy dough for a 2 crust pie, which should be enough for 6 individual desserts.
 1) Tart Shells: Cut the dough in strips slightly wider than the diameter of the muffin tin cups or custard cups which will be used for baking. Put one strip in the cup, put a dot of water in the center if the bottom and lay the other strip at right angles across it. Lightly press the edges together to seal and trim the top edges folding a bit over to make a rim. Fill partially with raw rice or beans, bake at 450 deg. for about 12 min.
 2) Individual Galettes: Using a saucer as a template, cut dough in rounds. Place on a baking sheet and fold up edges in pleats to make sides. Allow for about 1 ¼ inches all around. Fill with crumpled waxed paper or parchment paper to hold the shape and bake at 450 deg. about 12 min. Cool, carefully remove paper, fill and garnish in any of the above ways.
 3) Turnovers: Using the saucer templates, cut the dough as above. Place 1 soup spoon of drained, prepared fruit on the center. Fold over to make a half moon. Dampen edges and crimp with a fork to seal and prick the top 2 or 3 times. Bake on a sheet in a preheated 450 deg. oven about 15min. until golden. Cool, garnish with powdered sugar, or whipped topping and serve. Alternatively, sprinkle with granulated sugar before baking and simply drizzle with reserved juice.

Apr 5

UPDATING SPRING SIDE DISHES-PART II-CARBS

For several weeks now, I’ve been talking about the growing number of vegetables that are available all year and our increasing interest in and acceptance of preparing them in different ways. Ways that are not perhaps traditional, but perfectly presentable for the current season, in this case, spring.

For nearly two years I’ve been touting incorporating the salad into the entrée as well. Though it’s a great option, it’s not one that’s really suitable for an event meal, and spring is loaded with them, nor is it really welcome on a daily basis. For that the customary three-on-a-plate service is preferred.

The problem is that in spring we crave lighter fare, not the hearty, sustaining, mashed and/or densely sauced, starchy dishes we need in winter. Also as I mentioned a few weeks ago, bathing suit time is coming and we want to avoid foods that add pounds. We can manage the meat and fiber content but what can replace the carbohydrates which are the third element on the standard dinner plate?

The answer is that we rely on the usual carbs; we just choose and treat them differently. We pick small new potatoes with paper-thin jackets, not large bakers, and pair them with low-cal vegetables in recipes. We turn to delicate pasta shapes with lighter sauces and change the rice from bedding into a side filled with healthy ingredients. We can also serve vegetables such as carrots and shallots, which are actually seasonal now, but available all year, as separate carbohydrate sides.

The result is a selection of options, a few listed below, that are less calorie laden than their winter counterparts, yet just as satisfying. Moreover, they represent a welcome change and for the person who enjoys cooking, a fun challenge. There’s a plus in it for everyone.

RECIPES

Carrots Vichy:

Serves 6- From day by Day Cooking by Mary Berry
1 ½ lb. baby carrots
2 Tbs. butter
11/2 tsp. sugar
Salt & pepper
1 1/3 cups water
Parsley for garnish
Place everything in an ovenproof casserole with a tight lid or seal with foil. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven 1 ½ hrs. , until carrots are tender. Serve with the cooking liquid but drain a bit if they appear too wet. Garnish with parsley.

Carrots Françoise:

Serves 2- Adapted from Weight Watchers Favorite Recipes
½ lb. carrots in julienne
1 garlic clove – minced
1 Tbs. Lemon juice
1 tsp. oil
1 tsp. Dijon Mustard
Combine last 3 ingredients in a jar and shake well to blend. Boil carrots in a skillet until just tender. Drain and stir in garlic, toss to mix, over medium heat about 1 min. Add the other ingredients, coat carrots and remove from heat. Serve warm, at room temperature or chill.

Caramelized Shallots:

Serves 4-5
1 ¼ lb. shallots or pearl onions-skinned but root end left on
¼ cup butter
1 Tbs. sugar
2 Tbs. wine-red or white-Madeira or port acceptable
2/3 cup water
Salt and pepper
Slowly sauté the shallots in the butter in a single layer over medium-low heat until golden. Sprinkle with the sugar and cook, turning the shallots, until it caramelizes. Add the wine, bring to a simmer for 5 min. then add the water and seasonings. Cover and cook 5 min. Uncover and cook until the liquid evaporates. Adjust seasonings and serve hot.

Quick Potato-Mushroom Casserole:

Serves 4- From day by Day Cooking by Mary Berry
(1) 20 oz. can whole new potatoes-drained
1 ½ cups button mushrooms-stems on-the smaller the better-halved if large
2 cups milk
2 Tbs. butter-melted
1/3 cup flour
Salt & pepper
Melt the butter and toss the mushrooms in it for about 3 min. Stir in the flour until smooth, add the milk and seasonings and cook for 2 min. until sauce starts to thicken. Add the potatoes and cook 5 min. until sauce is thick and contents are heated through. Serve at once garnished with chopped parsley.

New Potatoes and Summer Squashes in Sour Cream Dill Sauce:

Serves 4-6-From Three & Four Ingredient by Jenny White and Joanna Farrow
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1 lb. baby new potatoes
½ cup + to taste fresh dill and chives finely chopped
1 ½ cups sour cream or Greek yogurt
Salt and pepper
Leave jackets on potatoes and cut only if large. Cut squash in slices equal to potatoes’ size. In a wide shallow pan, boil the potatoes until almost tender, add the squash and cook until crisp tender. Drain, return to pan and stir in the herbs. Off heat stir in the sour cream or yogurt. Return to heat and gently warm through. Season to taste and serve.

Pasta with Parsley Garlic Sauce:

Serves 6-Adapted from Recipes 1-2-3 by Rosanne Gold
¼ cup garlic oil
2 large bunches flat-leafed parsley
9 oz. pasta of choice
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Ice water
Chill oil in the freezer for at least 2 hrs. Trim heavy stems from parsley and blanch in boiling salted water for 1 min. rinse in cold water, drain and chop. Blend with ¼ cup ice water until finely chopped; still blending, add oil by the teaspoon, along with salt to taste and enough extra water to make a smooth paste. Cook pasta of choice until al dente, drain, add sauce and serve. Serving tip: If using long strand pasta, twirl sauced strands around a 2-tined serving fork to make individual mounds for each plate.

Couscous with Fruits and Almonds:

Serves 4
1 Tbs. + 1 tsp. butter
½ oz. slivered almonds
3 prunes- slivered
4 dried apricots-slivered
2Tbs.raisins
2 tsp. honey
Salt and pepper
1 box couscous-flavor of choice + water as directed on box
Melt butter in a saucepan and sauté nuts and fruits until almonds are golden, about 3 min. Stir in remaining ingredients and follow directions on the box. Fluff with a fork before serving. Excellent with poultry.
* This recipe can also be made with rice. See directions below

Turmeric Rice:

Serves 4
4 scallions
1 Tbs. butter
1 ½ cups rice
3 cups water
½ cup raisins
¼ tsp. turmeric
1 tsp. beef bouillon granules
Fresh parsley for garnish
Saute the scallions in the butter until crisp-tender, add the rice and cook, tossing until golden. About 2 min. Add everything else but the raisins and parsley, cover bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook for 15 min. Remove from heat, stir in raisins, and let stand for 10 min. Serve garnished with parsley.

Herbed Rice:

Serves 4
1 cup long grain rice
2 ¼ cups water
2 tsp. butter
1/3 cup sliced scallions
¼ cup EACH chopped fresh dill, parsley, cilantro
Salt & pepper
In a large saucepan, bring the water , with a pinch of salt, to a boil, add the rest of the ingredients, cover, reduce heat and cook for 20 min. Remove from heat, season to taste, and let stand, covered, for 5 min. fluff with a fork and garnish with a reserved bit of any of the above herbs.

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