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Posts from the ‘Seasonal’ Category

Nov 15

PORTABLE HOLIDAY SIDE DISHES

Thanksgiving was always considered a home centered celebration enjoyed with family and friends, but it’s been evolving to adapt to our busy lifestyle. Instead of heading for a specific house as dinner guests the trend is to gather at a designated home for a communally prepared meal. It’s more in keeping with the origin of the holiday and allows for a greater variety of dishes, even the inclusion of other cuisines.

Although sometimes the organizer makes all the arrangements, more often the event resembles a covered dish supper which raises the problem of space; not only if the kitchen is large enough for all the helpers to move or if there is sufficient working room on the counters, but also the capacity of the appliances, the fridge, oven(s) and stove top. I have a friend who fills the summer drink coolers with ice and asks a few people to bring their counter-top ovens and/or microwaves.

Ideally, the only dinner item to be completely cooked from start to finish in the host kitchen, is the turkey. Everything else should arrive needing only the finishing touches or a short time to cook. Double baked items, like stuffed potatoes are good for this and au gratins are perfect (see posting for Nov. 9, 2017). So are simply cooked vegetables which can be easily reheated in the microwave. There are also a few dishes which can be prepared ahead and quickly cooked in a microwave. My Spinach Pie and Corn Pudding are two of them. Find the recipes along with other portable side dishes in the posting for Nov. 10, 2016. The posting for Nov.3, 2016 may also be of interest, it deals with stuffings which can be made ahead and served with the bird.

Otherwise, you’ll find enough recipes in this posting to fill your Thanksgiving menu, along with directions to make ahead and finish on site at serving time. Most dishes can be made up to three days ahead, and then brought to room temperature before finishing. Of course, if they’re made that day, they won’t need refrigeration. So whether you plan to host or contribute to the holiday meal, make your day more relaxing by doing the work in advance and have a HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

RECIPES

Kale Au Gratin:

Serves 8-Adapted from Try-Foods Intl. Inc.
8 cups kale-heavy stems removed and chopped
2 leeks trimmed and thinly sliced
2 Tbs. butter+ ½ Tbs.
1 cup half and half
2 Tbs. flour
Salt and pepper
½ cup shredded sharp cheese
1/3 cup seasoned breadcrumbs-preferably wheat
Blanch kale in boiling water 2 min. drain, run under cold water, drain again and place in a lightly greased 1 quart casserole. Melt 1 Tbs. of butter in a sauté pan and cook the leeks about 5 min. Transfer them to the casserole. Melt the rest of the butter in the sauté pan, stir in the flour to make a paste and add the milk, stirring until the sauce thickens, then add the cheese. Stir into the kale and leeks, top with breadcrumbs and bake at 340 deg. 15-20 min. until brown and bubbly. To make ahead, reserve crumbs, store chilled, bring to room temperature, add crumbs and bake on site.

Turnips Au Gratin:

Serves 4– From Try Foods Intl. Inc
1 ½ lb. turnips- peeled and thinly sliced*
1/3 cup turnip greens reserved and chopped*
¼ cup finely diced onion
¼ cup heavy cream
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper
3 Tbs. seasoned breadcrumbs
Layer a quarter of the turnip slices in the bottom if a greased casserole. Sprinkle with 1 Tbs. EACH onion, cream and cheese, 1/3 of the greens and seasonings to taste. Repeat layers 3 times, topping with remaining cream, cheese and breadcrumbs. Cover and bake 350 deg. 30 min. Uncover and bake 15 min. more until golden. If making ahead, do the second baking before serving.
*Kohlrabi can be used in place of turnips but remember they lose about half their weight in peeling so buy an adjusted amount.

Two Potato Au Gratin:

Serves 6– From Home Journal Cookbook
1 ½ lb. sweet potatoes-peeled and in ¼ inch slices
1 ½ lb. white potatoes in peeled and in ¼ inch slices
2 scallions trimmed and sliced thin
4 Tbs. flour
2 cups skim milk
Salt and pepper
1 Tbs. butter
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Boil potatoes in water for about 5 min. until crisp tender, drain. Spoon with scallions into a greased 8 inch square casserole and dot with butter. Combine flour and milk in a saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly, until thickened, about 5 min. Season to taste and pour over vegetables. Top with cheese. Bake in a 325 deg. oven 20-25 min, until golden and bubbly. If making ahead do the baking just before serving.

Mashed Rutabaga:

Serves 4
1 large rutabaga peeled and cubed
1 medium potato peeled and cubed
2 Tbs. butter
¼ cup or less- whole milk
Salt and pepper
1 tsp. chopped chives for garnish
Boil rutabaga and potato together until soft, about 15-18 min. Drain and mash together with butter, seasonings and just enough fluid to give a silky consistency. Serve garnished with chives. If made ahead reheat gently in the microwave, stirring once and then garnish.

Marbled Mashed Potatoes:

Serves 8.
2 ½ lb. white potatoes
2 ½ lb. Sweet potatoes
4 Tbs. butter-divided
1 ½ cups milk- divided
4 Tbs. sour cream-divided
Salt and pepper
Cook potatoes separately until tender, about 12 min. Mash each separately until silky smooth with half the other ingredients. Place the sweet potatoes in one layer in a greased 3 quart casserole and smooth the top. Layer the white potatoes over the sweet potatoes and smooth the top. Using a knife gently swirl the sweet potatoes up into the white potatoes creating a marble effect. Cover and bake at 350 deg. for 20 min. or until heated through. If making ahead, do this heating at serving time. DO NOT STIR.

Tipsy Sweet Potatoes:

Serves 4
4 sweet potatoes
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½ cup milk
¼ tsp. EACH nutmeg and cinnamon
1/3 cup yellow raisins
¼ cup bandy or bourbon
Salt and pepper
Microwave the sweet potatoes about 6 min. until soft and scoop out the meat. Blend the meat with the remaining ingredients until only a bit of texture remains. Serve hot. Can be reheated in the microwave.

Green Beans Genovese:

Serves 6 – From Try Foods Intl. Inc.
2 lb. whole green beans
1 Tbs. oil
2 cloves minced garlic
3 mashed anchovy fillets
1/3 cup Italian parsley chopped
Freshly ground black pepper
Boil beans until crisp tender, about 7 min., run under cold water and drain. Saute garlic in oil until golden; add beans, toss and heat through, toss with anchovy, parsley and pepper. Serve hot. If making ahead, reserve last 3 ingredients, reheat gently in the microwave and toss with reserved items.

Brussels Sprouts with Walnuts:

Serves 4
1 lb. Brussels Sprouts—bottoms trimmed
1 Tbs. oil
2 tsp. balsamic vinegar
1 tsp. dried rosemary
1/3 cup chopped, toasted walnuts
Roll Brussels Sprouts in oil on a baking sheet, sprinkle with rosemary and roast at 375 deg. for 20min. Drizzle with vinegar and roast 5-10 min. more until tender. Serve sprinkled with walnuts. If making ahead, reserve walnuts, reheat gently in the microwave and toss with reserved nuts

Spiked Carrots:

Serves 6
1 lb. baby carrots-cleaned
1 Tbs. butter
2 tsp. brandy, cognac, or bourbon
1 tsp. brown sugar
Boil carrots 7-9 min. until crisp tender. drain. Saute with rest of the ingredients over low heat, stirring gently for2 min. until glazed. If making ahead, reheat gently in the microwave and garnish with parsley.

Green Beans, Pecans and Blue Cheese:

Serves 4 From Try Foods Intl. Inc
1 lb. green beans cut in 1 inch pieces
½ cup pecans
Salt
1 Tbs. oil divided
1 tsp. EACH Dijon mustard and cider vinegar
2 tsp. grated shallot
1 ½ oz. crumbled blue cheese
Boil beans until crisp tender, about 7 min., run under cold water and drain. Saute pecans in 1 tsp. oil with salt, stirring, about 2 min. Cool on paper towels. Whisk oil, vinegar, mustard and shallots in a bowl,
add beans and toss. Combine cheese with half the nuts, sprinkle over bowl and top with remaining pecans. If making ahead, chill beans and save the last two steps until serving time. Serve at room temperature.

Broccoli with Cranberries, Apples and Almonds:

Serves 8
3 large heads of broccoli separated into flowerets
1 large Granny Smith apple-cored and diced
1 Tbs. lime juice
5 oz. slivered, toasted almonds
1 cup dried cranberries
3 Tbs. Balsamic Vinaigrette-commercial is fine
Marinate apple in lime juice. Drip broccoli into boiling water, turn off heat and leave for 2min. then drain and cool. Toss broccoli, apple with juice, and cranberries with vinaigrette. Top with almonds. Serve at room temperature. If making ahead, chill broccoli with dressing and reserve fruits and nuts to add before serving.




Oct 25

CASUAL MUSHROOM SOUPS FOR FALL

As a parent, I’m well aware of the problems of feeding a family on Trick or Treat Night. Depending on the children’s age range, dinner can take three servings, with the adults eating after the door finally closes. So the food has to fill certain requirements. It has to be tempting enough that kids will stop to eat; quickly consumed, needing few utensils, with minimal risk of spills, keep fresh for hours and be an easy clean-up.

 

After discovering casseroles dry up, stews, chunky soups and hoagies are messy, take out and pizzas get cold and soggy, I finally found a platter of sandwiches and a hearty, drinkable soup were the answer. The sandwiches can come from a Deli, as long as they’re covered and on rolls or a dense bread like rye, they’ll stay fresh. The soup should be thick enough to satisfy, yet thin enough to drink from a mug.

 

I’ve written posts on this subject with suggestions particularly Oct. 14, 2015 and Oct. 20,2016, but then it occurred to me that mushrooms, though available all year, really are fall produce. Most people like them and they make wonderful soups and easily made, hearty, satisfying recipes are welcome additions to a casual meal at any time.

 

I’ve given nine recipes below which fill the bill. The first has a ‘company’ version and the last plays both ways, but generally they’re all casual fare, to be served in mugs and re-heatable in the microwave. There are a few tips first. Unless otherwise specified, Portabellas or Baby Bellas are the mushrooms of choice. However, for creamed soups, buttons can be substituted or mixed in to keep the color light. Heavy cream, half-and-half and skim milk are the only ones to use in cooking. The fat content in other grades of milk and cream cause them to ‘break’ or curdle when heated.

 

Even if you don’t have Trick or Treaters, treat yourself to one of these wonderful soups.

 

Cream of Mushroom Soup 1:

 

Serves 6
1/3 cup butter
1lb. mushrooms –sliced
1 quart chicken or beef stock
3 Tbs. flour
2 cups heavy cream or half-and-half
Salt and pepper
½ cup sweet or dry sherry-optional
Saute mushrooms in butter until juices render. Add stock, cover and simmer 15 min. Drain mushrooms, return stock to pot, placing ½ cup in a lidded jar, add flour to jar. Puree mushrooms and return to stock. Shake jar to dissolve flour and add to soup. Bring to a simmer, stirring until thickened slightly. Add dairy and seasonings and heat through. Add sherry before serving.

 

Cream of Mushroom Soup 2:

 

Serves 6
Modifications to above ingredients:
¼ cup butter
1Tbs.flour
1 cup heavy cream or half-and-half
¼ tsp. EACH paprika and caraway seed
½ lb. puff pastry dough
1 egg lightly beaten
Dill weed
Follow the above directions adding the seasonings and sherry with the dairy. Pour soup into 6 custard cups and roll out pastry cutting 6 circles to fit the cup tops and brush the cup edges with egg. Cover the cups with pastry, poke air vents in each and bake at 400 deg.for20 min. until golden. Serve garnished with dill.

 

Mushroom and Bread Soup:

 

Serves 8 –From 400 Soups by Anne Sheasby
6 Tbs. butter
2 lb. mushrooms-sliced
2 onions- chopped
3 cups skim milk
8 slices white bread
1 cup heavy cream
¼ cup chopped parsley
Salt and pepper
Saute vegetables in butter over low heat until soft but not browned. Remove from heat, add milk and bread, cover and soak 15 min. Puree, return to pot, add cream, seasonings and 3Tbs.parsley. Reheat and serve, garnished with parsley.

 

Dried Mushroom and Barley Soup:

 

Serves 6- From Soups and Stews by Barbara Grunes
¼ lb. dried mushrooms
1 quart boiling water
1 quart chicken or beef stock
¼ cup butter
2 large onions – diced
3 Tbs. flour
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2 cups cooked barley
Salt and pepper
Reconstitute mushrooms in water, strain well, reserving 1quart liquid and slice mushrooms thinly. Return to pot with liquid and stock, simmer for 1 hr. or until fluid is reduced by half. Saute onions in butter until soft, stir in flour to make a roux—smooth paste—add 1 cup of soup stock and cook until thickened and stir into soup pot. Add seasonings and barley and heat through.

 

Mushroom and Potato Soup:

 

Serves 6- From Soups and Stews by Barbara Grunes
1 lb. mushrooms- sliced
1 ½ quarts beef stock- ½ cup reserved
1 large onion –halved and thinly sliced
2 carrots-thinly sliced
4 potatoes peeled and thinly sliced
1Tbs. butter
3 Tbs. flour
1 tsp. caraway seed
Place first 5 ingredients in a pot. Bring to a boil and simmer until vegetables are tender, about 30 min. Stir flour into reserved stock until dissolved and add to soup with butter and caraway. Stir until thickened slightly, about 5 min. Serve hot.
NOTE: For children, soup can be pureed before flour is added.

 

Mushroom and Brie Soup:

 

Serves 6-From Rozanne Gold’s Recipes 1-2-3
2/3 cup dried mushrooms
3 cups boiling water + 2 cups
1 ½ lb. onions-thinly sliced
9 oz. Brie cheese-rind removed-in small cubes
Salt and pepper
Reconstitute mushrooms in hot water 30 min. Drain mushrooms, strain and reserve liquid. Saute onions in a non-stick skillet about 15 min. until golden and chop mushrooms. Simmer onions, soaking liquid and water for 45 min. Gradually add cheese, stirring until melted, then mushrooms to taste –you may not want them all. Add seasonings and serve just warm.

 

Mushroom and Herb Potage:

 

Serves 4-6- Modified from 400 Soups by Anne Sheasby
1lb.mushrooms- roughly chipped
1Tbs, butter
1 Tbs. oil
1 large onion or 3 small shallots-chopped
3 cups vegetable or beef stock
1 cup skim milk OR 4 cups stock
2 Tbs. sherry
2 Tbs. chopped fresh mixed herbs OR 2 Tbs. tarragon
¼ cup Greek yogurt OR sour cream
Cover and sweat onions and mushrooms in oil until softened and juices are released. Add remaining ingredients but yogurt and simmer, covered for about 10-12 min. Puree, reheat and serve with a dollop of yogurt.

 

Mushroom and Celery Soup:

 

Serves 4- Modified from 400 Soups by Anne Sheasby
4 ½ cups chopped mushrooms
4 thinly sliced celery sticks
3 garlic cloves- mashed
4 Tbs. sherry or white wine
3 cups beef stock
1 tsp. EACH Worcestershire sauce and nutmeg
Salt and pepper
Over low heat, cook the mushrooms, celery, garlic, wine and ½ cup stock about 30 min. covered, until soft. Add I cup stock and puree. Return to pot with the remaining ingredients; bring to a boil, season and serve, garnished with celery leaves.

 

 

Sep 13

FREEZING SUMMER PRODUCE-PART I

I’m a summer person. Growing up at the seashore, I became addicted to water sports as a child. More daylight hours energize me. I feel I can, and actually do accomplish more, resulting in a better night’s sleep. I enjoy being able to open a door and go out without having to grab a sweater, jacket or parka but above all I love the abundant seasonal produce. It’s always with renewed sadness that I watch it disappear each fall. I hang onto the freshness as long as possible by cooking the end-of-season yield but eventually, have to admit autumn is here and summer is over. I’m not completely defeated though. I preserve some reminders to enjoy during the cold months ahead by freezing them.

While in the process of preparing this year’s supply of simmer’s food mementos, I thought it might be fun to share my experiences and facts I’ve learned along the way with all of you. I remembered a couple of posts I’d written on the subject in Sept. 2016, looked them up and combined the essence of them both, plus new information I’ve gathered in this post. Please remember, I’m focused on late summer produce here, but the direction can apply to any similar items. For example, freezing snap pea pods and Italian beans is the same procedure as that for green beans I’ll follow this with a post on applications and recipe examples next week.

Several produce items available in late summer can be preserved to have handy during the months ahead. I’m not talking about ‘stocking up for the winter’. That’s far too time and space consuming for today’s lifestyle. This is about having enough of certain products to make a featured dish for a holiday feast, or to serve as occasional reminders of warm, sunny days during cold, snowy ones.

Still, not all of the produce so plentiful in the early fall is suitable for freezing. The best way to tell is to check the glass cases in the supermarkets. If an item isn’t there, it doesn’t commercially flash-freeze well and won’t survive the slower domestic process. This especially applies to things with high water content and soft flesh, tomatoes, plums and eggplant for example. The frozen water content forms crystals which attach to the other frozen elements in their make-up, thaw faster and drain the item of its juice and flavor, leaving a deflated, pulpy mass. These items are better canned, or for tomatoes, optionally, dehydrated, allowing the juices to remain or dry in the flesh, retaining flavor.

You’ll probably think that the best choices from the late summer crops to freeze, green beans, corn and peaches are ‘Ho-hum already done’ and you’d be right. However, I can promise you the difference in texture, flavor and appearance between commercially processed and what you do yourself, will be a happy surprise, no, make that shock.

There are a few tips to simulate the commercial flash-freezing process which help to assure a good result. The difference between treatment of the 4 items discussed here is noted at each step. Of course, they should be cleaned and prepped first; the beans trimmed, any strings removed, the corn husked and silk brushed off, the peaches washed, stems removed.

  • For corn and peaches bring a pot of water to a boil, for beans use a skillet.
    1) Immerse the beans only until they turn bright green (blanched) about10-15 sec.
    2) Dip the peaches about 10-30 sec. until the skins will peel easily
    3) Cook the corn on cob about 4 min. until just beginning to tenderize.
  • Immediately run cold water over the produce to stop the cooking
  • Spread a counter top with paper towels
    1) Lay the beans and corn cobs out, separated, to dry
    2) Using a sharp knife, peel the skin off the peaches. Do not allow to dry. Start freezing prep.
  • Cover cookie sheets with waxed paper
    1) Spread the beans out separately on the cookie sheet and freeze
    2) Brace the bottom of each corn cob in the center of a tube pan. Using a sharp knife, slice off the kernels, letting them fall into the pan. Spread them evenly over the lined sheet and freeze.
    3) Slice the peaches, about 4 per half, directly onto the lined sheet, not overlapping, and freeze.

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Freeze the produce according to your freezer’s rate, usually between 40-60 min.

To Package:

The reason for freezing the produce on cookie sheets is to capture color, freshness and taste. The reason to take pains to be sure there’s no overlapping is to avoid clumping and damage in storing, as well as to make it easy to remove a desired portion. It’s important the packaging maintain these assets.

  • Use zip lock bags or square plastic boxes with secure lids, like those used for dinner entrees.
  • Do not let the items thaw, package for storage quickly
  • Place the items in the containers individually, not overlapping
  • If layering is necessary to fill the container, separate them with accordion-like folds of waxed paper-not plastic wrap
    1) the corn is best in bags and should be spread to an even thickness
    2) The beans can be arranged in a uniform layers in bags or boxes.
    3) The peach slices should be placed individually in each layer, and dusted with a thin coating of powdered sugar before being covered with the paper for the next layer, in boxes.
  • Make room in the freezer to store these containers flat, even stacked, but never on end, allowing the contents to clump together

Cooking:

Because these items have been blanched and domestically frozen, which takes more time than the commercial flash method, they take a few minutes less time to cook. Here are some general guidelines. Individual recipes follow.

  • Normally green beans need 15 min.to steam or boil. These should be checked at about 10 min. frozen, 8 min. thawed. Take about 5 min. off roasting time too.
  • It takes about 2 ears of corn for a single serving as a side dish and that’s a lot to freeze. If you have room for this-fine, but if not use this corn to add to casseroles, salads, side combos or even salsa. Done this way it will stand up to cooking in a dish or just being tossed in a salad.*
  • The peaches quickly lose their juice when thawed and are best used directly from the freezer. Remember they have a thin coating of sugar and adjust other ingredients accordingly

*I come from a state famous for its white table corn. My Mother-in-Law was a master at freezing it. She taught me the tube pan trick and her winter dinners occasionally featured sides of buttered corn. She froze it in 1 cup bags which she considered a single portion or the amount usually required for adding to 4 portion dishes. She stored the bags in large plastic containers in the freezer. If you’re a corn lover and have access to a lot of it, plus the freezer space, this is the way to go.

Now on to specific freezing tips:

Beans:

Hand select the beans to be frozen, choosing the largest, firmest, straightest ones. This assures even freezing and makes the best presentation later. As stated above, they cook as directed for commercially frozen ones, only for a bit less time, depending on your appliances and can be used in the same ways. Always try to serve these whole; cut beans are too ordinary to be ‘special ‘.

Of course, the easiest and often most attractive way to serve green beans is simply to add toppings. Fresh herbs such as thyme, sage and rosemary are favorite toppings and mushrooms and Karmelized onions are popular add-ins too. Broiled portabellas, sliced, are wonderful, so are button caps first lightly broiled in butter with soy sauce added, then reheated, poured over the beans.

Corn:

Don’t try to freeze corn-on-the-cob. It isn’t that great commercially and even worse domestically. Make sure the ears are silk-free before you cut the kernels off because shreds of silk will mat when frozen and can ruin a dish.

As stated, the best use of the corn is as an addition to another dish, and, of course, that depends on the recipe for the dish. If it’s a cold salad or salsa, dip the bag with the corn into boiling water for about 3 min. then shock under cold. Otherwise just add to the recipe as directed. Using ‘fresh’ corn in salads is a wonderfully refreshing change in winter.

Peaches:

Keep the peaches in the boiling water only long enough to loosen the skin. The riper the peach the less time it takes. Hold the peach on a slotted spoon under cold water, until cool enough to handle; prick it with a paring knife and peel off the skin. Place the peaches on a waxed paper covered flat surface until all the fruit is peeled, then begin slicing each for freezing over the paper covered cookie sheet, making sure the slices don’t touch. Freeze, then lightly dust with powdered sugar as boxed.

When frozen, place the slices in a 4 inch square freezer box. Supermarkets sell these in 3-packs. Place the slices, without touching, in layers and separate the layers with a long strip of waxed paper woven accordion style between layers. Peaches are best used frozen and thawed in a dish’s preparation. Remember in using them that they are lightly sugared and adjust the recipe.

Frozen this way peaches consume more room than packaged in bags, so, unless you have a lot of space, they’re best reserved for accessory dishes like salsas and sauces. If you plan a dish using a quantity of them, like a pie, for a winter event, make it, then freeze it in a metal pan, and bake it frozen, just add about 15 min. to the oven time.

Don’t forget the thawed peach slices can be used by themselves scattered over ice cream, meats, in salads, mixed with winter fruits in compotes and other ways, even over cereal to brighten a dreary winter morning.

Zucchini:

At summer’s end we’re often so focused on the luscious stone fruits, peaches, plums, etc., the big, ripe tomatoes and the sweet yellow corn that we tend to take another currently plentiful produce item for granted– zucchini, which may be the most versatile ‘vegetable’ of all. (Zucchini is actually a fruit, specifically a berry.) It has an interesting history too.

Zucchini is not Italian, but like all squash, native to the Americas. It was brought to Europe centuries ago along with its cousin the yellow squash. Together they were called ‘summer squash’; a name still used for the yellow ones. The Northern Italians, especially the Milanese and Tuscans developed the green squash into the product as we now know it, as well as a golden version, and gave it its present name, which is generally universal, though in England it’s called a ‘Marrow’ and in France a ‘Courgette’. These squash returned to the U.S. in the late 19thcentury but remained relatively unnoticed until after WWW II.

Zucchini is very prolific and there’s often a surplus at the end of the season, even for back-yard gardeners. One partial solution, I’m told, is to eat the flowers before they mature. These are delicious prepared stuffed or fried in recipes readily available especially on the web, but usually there is still over abundance at this time of year.

Due to high water content, zucchini doesn’t freeze well, except by commercial flash-freezing. Whole, it deflates when thawed and slices clump. So how does one avoid wasting the extra? I’ve had some success for short periods, freezing thick slices on a cookie sheet before bagging them or freezing it in a sauced dish like ratatouille. However, one of the best ways to preserve zucchini is to accept the fact that it’s going to change texture, become limp and combine it, with other ingredients, into a ‘base’, which will keep for several months, for future dishes. Food Tips and Cooking Tricks by David Joachim has an excellent recipe for such a base and ideas on how to use it but, of course, once made, you can use it as you please.

Two other summer produce items which I prepare and set aside for winter are watermelon and mint. However, since I don’t freeze either of them, I’m not including them in my ‘Tip’ list this week. I am including them, with full directions in preparing them, in next week’s post when I discuss and list recipes examples for the presentations of these foods.

Watermelon:

Although I don’t freeze watermelon, I do pickle the rind, so I’m including it in my list of things I preserve to remind me of summer during cold winter days.

Mint:

I also preserve mint by pickling, in a sense. I make it into a ‘sauce’ or ‘dressing’ to be used as a flavoring or condiment.

Join me next week to get wonderful recipe suggestions for ways to enjoy these ‘gifts of summer’ all winter.

 

 

 

 

 

Jul 22

melon,

Melons-The Mid-Summer Fruits

My favorite supermarket’s flyer features cantaloupes this week.  It’s only a small notice at the bottom corner of the front page, but it started me thinking about our changed perception of melons in the past few years. I come from a state known for its summer produce, including several varieties of melons. We always considered the seasonal appearance of fruits to be in three ‘Acts’ actually over a period of half a year.   Berries usher in the warm weather, then by mid- season watermelons introduce the other melons signaling high summer. Finally, as the summer matures so do the stone fruits, lingering into early Fall.

What startled me was that, here we are in July, and this small notice was the only mention I’d seen of a melon sale. Where are the banners on the front page, or at least in the produce section? I see watermelons and some honeydews in the markets, but where are the Casabas, Persians and, my Mother’s favorite the spicy-sweet Crenshaws? I don’t find them even in the Farm markets.

Cantaloupes have always been the most available melon but now they appear to be the whole category.  I did realize this past winter, that they were always in stock at a reasonable price but am surprised that those prices prevail in July, 2/$4 or 2/$5, depending on the week. This week’s ‘feature’ is 3/$5, only slightly lower than normal and almost double the usual cost in season.  Honeydew’s cost hasn’t changed since December; watermelons are slightly higher than last year.

Poor melons! They are given less attention, less representation of varieties, so a lowered profile, and less marketing than ever before. This is not a case of ‘less is more’. I’m afraid it’s a case of removing the category from the consumers’ attention. Cantaloupes are rather bland, especially when mass grown for commercial use. Combine this with their constant presence all year at an unchanged price and people, unable to compare them to others in their class, consider melons a ‘Ho-hum’ item.

In fact, I doubt if the trend continues, that most consumers are aware of the existence of the other types of melons in a few years. The mid-summer is already becoming a gap between berries and stone fruits, not a period with a special offering. ‘Act II’ is disappearing from the Summer Fruit Parade.  The only remedy would seem to be to raise awareness of this exceptional class of fruits. So here’s my contribution to the Melon Fan Club: recipes for every course.

One fun fact is that, a true symbol of high summer when we don’t feel like cooking, melons are the only fruit that is never cooked. The rind may be pickled but the meat can’t stand heat.  Generally, their taste is mild, their flavor subtle, and the flesh, high in water content, is substantial in volume. Consequently, though delicious alone, melons combine well with other ingredients and the meat makes excellent bedding in salads and compotes.

To pick a melon, the best test is to thump it and listen for a hollow sound.  Ripe cantaloupes have a faint, sweet fragrance as well. If the stem stump is indented, the melon was vine ripened and easily detached, rather than being harvested on a schedule and cut away. Finally, shake the melon and if you hear the seeds, it’s apt to be dry. Unlike other fruits, melons don’t ripen once picked, so eat them soon.

Now, a few tips on working with melons.  Wash the outside well, before cutting into one. A knife slicing through the rind can carry contaminants into the flesh. Melons are loaded with nutrients but they quickly disintegrate when exposed to light and air, so avoid buying cut segments. Once opened, cover the exposed flesh with plastic wrap and store chilled. I put mine in a black plastic bag in the fridge.

RECIPES:
Melon con Prosciutto
This classic Italian presentation traditionally Involves simply draping thin slices of dry-cured ham over slices of melon. It can be transformed into a canapé by cubing the melon and wrapping it in ham secured by a toothpick.  Baled ham or smoked turkey create a reasonable facsimile.

Honeydew-Pineapple Soup: Serves 4
4 cups seeded, cubed honeydew
2 cups cubed, fresh pineapple
2 Tbs. honey
1 Tbs. lime juice
½ cup sour cream
½ cup yogurt
Pinch all spice
Blend everything to a puree and chill. Serve garnished with chopped fresh mint.

Moosewood Melon Soup: Serves 4*
6 cups cubed cantaloupe
14 oz. can coconut milk
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
2 Tbs. grated fresh ginger
2 Tbs. chopped mint
1 tsp. almond extract
Dash cinnamon
@¼ cup brown sugar or to taste
Puree all the ingredients, adding the sugar to taste. Chill well. Serve garnished with mint leaves.
*Recipe from the Moosewood Restaurant New Classics Cookbook

Melon Salsa: Serves 4
Wonderful with chicken or fish
½  small  cantaloupe –seeded and cubed
4 scallions- white and light green parts in thin slices or ½ small onion in small dice
½  green bell pepper in small dice
1 Tbs. chopped fresh mint
½ lime juiced
Pinch salt
Combine all ingredients and chill well. Serve as a side with the meal.

Melon-Scallop Salad; Serves 4
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1 ½  cups chopped tomatoes
½ cucumber-seeded and cubed
1 small onion in thin rings
1 Tbs. fresh mint
1 head green leaf lettuce
1/3 cup citrus vinaigrette
1 lb. broiled scallops
Toss first 5 ingredients and divide among lettuce lined plates. Top with scallops and drizzle with vinaigrette.

Watermelon-Shrimp Salad: Serves 4
3 cups cubed seeded watermelon
1 cup cherry or grape tomatoes –halved
1 small onion in thin rings
1 Tbs. fresh lemon balm or lemon thyme (lemon-pepper to taste is a substitute)
1/8 tsp. Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper to taste
1/3 cup Balsamic vinaigrette
Small head Romaine lettuce –torn
½ lb. cooked shrimp-tails off and halved if large
Have all ingredients chilled. Gently toss and divide among plates.

Melon Sherbet: Serves 6-8
1 medium melon-cantaloupe or casaba
Juice of ½ lemon
4 egg whites
6 oz., sugar-super-fine or ’bar’ sugar is best
¼ -1/2 cup cherries or berries for garnish-optional
Fresh mint leaves for garnish-optional

Cut the melon in half, in a zigzag pattern if to be used it for serving. Remove seeds and cube meat. Blend with the lemon juice until smooth. Pour into a 1 ½ quart container and freeze until beginning to set. Beat the egg whites until stiff and gradually add the sugar.  Gently whisk or beat the melon mixture until broken up and light. Fold in the egg whites and return to the freezer and freeze until firmly set. Serve by the scoopful, in the melon shell or dishes. Garnish with fruit and/or mint. Keeps frozen about 1 month.
NOTES: Choose overripe fruit to make sherbet.
For anyone concerned over Salmonella, I recommend substituting Wilton Meringue Powder in any recipe that calls for directly adding raw beaten egg whites.  See June 30, 2016 posting on Icy Desserts.
Watermelon Granita: Serves 4
1 small watermelon-seeded and cubed
Sugar to taste
Dash hot pepper sauce and/or lime juice and/or salt to taste
Blend the melon meat and strain through a fine sieve or cheesecloth. Add sugar and allow to dissolve, and then add the other flavorings sparingly. Put into a metal 9 X 13 inch pan. Freeze, scraping with a fork to break up every 20-30 min., for 2-3 hours until resembles fluffy shaved ice. Store in a covered container in the freezer for 1 week. Scrape to fluff before serving. (The ice chips don’t clump during storage.)

Melon with Ice Cream
This is a recipe my Mother, who was from a different part of the country, introduced to my Father’s family. At first skeptical, they learned to love it and even had competitions as to the combinations.

Cut a thin slice off one end of the melon and stand it up. Cut a slice off the top just low enough to expose the interior. Scoop out the seeds and fill with softened ice cream or sherbet. Secure the ’cap’ piece with toothpicks and freeze until ice cream is firm. Serve cut in wedges or in rings. Garnish with a drizzle of liqueur- Triple Sec or Crème de Menthe.
Suggestions: Vanilla or peach ice cream with cantaloupe—Triple Sec
Lime sherbet with honeydew –Green Crème de Menthe

Melon Tequila : Serves 4*
1 large ripe cantaloupe
½ cup tequila + extra for dipping glass rims
4 Tbs. sugar + extra for dipping glass rims
Salt and pepper
Using a scoop make melon balls. Place melon balls in a bowl with other ingredients stirring to dissolve sugar. Cover and chill for 30 min. Dip glass rims in extra tequila then sugar to coat. Fill the glasses with the melon balls. Spoon over any remaining marinade. Serve at once.
* A recipe from Rozanne Gold’s Recipes 1-2-3 Menu Cookbook

Jun 22

6 Easy Icy Desserts For Hot Summer Days

Father’s Day was so late this year that it kinda nudges July 4th.So it seems reasonable to continue on the same subject, dessert, as we slide from one holiday into another. I mentioned in last week’s post that I was offering some very old recipes that could be served equally well today because they fit the occasion. They could be made ahead and showcased seasonal fruits. Well, this group of recipes is also ‘older’ in the sense that they’re classics, but they can showcase the seasonal fruits too and fit this particular occasion perfectly. They’re easy to make but do need time, which is why I’m posting them now.

The 4th of July symbolizes the height of the summer season. The mention of the date alone conjures visions of hot weather and icy treats. The beauty of icy treats is that they can be prepared, not just ’ahead’ but waaay ahead, a couple of weeks in fact, and popped out of the freezer at will. They’re ideal for feeding a group on a holiday that’s traditionally, casually observed.

A few years ago home ice-cream makers were hot items. I confess I bought one and have made a few concoctions, banana, pineapple-ginger and blueberry, which were pretty good, but I have one major problem. They require a lot of free freezer space and I don’t have that but I do like having something icy- sweet on hand. The answer is in making ice-cream and its alternatives, granita, sherbet, sorbet, semifreddo and gelato, the old-fashioned way. I’ve been doing it, and it works out well, in fact I’ve even made some on a stick for easy eating especially for children. (There’s a short-cut recipe below for that!)

I give descriptions of each of these types of dessert below, with recipe examples. Naturally, it’s understood that the flavors can be changed at will. The basic formulas define the differences between them and outline the choice options. Here’s a tip though, most are healthier than ice-cream. However, if you’re still interested in the ‘real thing’ I’m including a recipe below for ice-cream made the original way—without a machine.
I do want to repeat the advice I gave last week. I notice that current magazines and recipe sources include the use of raw eggs, especially the whites. For anyone concerned over Salmonella, I recommend substituting Wilton Meringue Powder in any recipe that calls for directly adding raw beaten egg whites. It’s available at all bakery supply stores and craft stores that sell baking equipment such as A.C.Moore. Another helpful note is to follow the ingredient quantities exactly and be sparing with any alcohol based flavorings. Both excess sugar and alcohol deter freezing and that’s a disaster with these dishes.

The recipes are divided into two groups of three. The first is water based and the second dairy. Granita and semifreddo can’t be made in machines; the others can, following the individual manufacturer’s directions. You will notice that several of the recipes like sherbet and sorbet seem similar. The main distinction is in the product’s purpose. Sorbet, made from fruit juice or juiced fruit, is lighter and often used as a ‘palate cleanser’ between courses during a multi course meal, or a light finish to a heavy or rich one. Sherbet, based on pureed fruit, is a dessert. (There’s a shortcut included in the recipe below.) Gelato is a bit less caloric and cholesterol laden than ice-cream (or Italian vrs. French.)
Here’s to celebrating Liberty, by enjoying the liberty of having something prepared ahead and ready to serve.

Basic Granita: Serves 4
1 ½ cups water
½ cup sugar
½ cup juice or other flavoring liquid- or extract squeezed from pureed fruit*
¼ cup lemon or lime juice
Pinch salt – optional
Additional flavorings-spices, herbs and/or garnishes—optional
Over low heat dissolve sugar in water, remove from heat and add flavoring liquid and juice, cool and put into a metal 9 X 13 inch pan. Freeze, scraping with a fork to break up every 20-30 min., for 2-3 hours until resembles fluffy shaved ice. Store in a covered container in the freezer for 1 week. Scrape to fluff before serving. (The ice chips don’t clump during storage.)
*I often make this with cranberry juice, but other juices and liquids like coffee, green tea(matcha) even flat soda pop and pureed, strained fruits can be used as well. For example, it can be made with meat from ½ a watermelon, blended and squeezed through a sieve. Small amounts of liquor can also be added but beware the alcohol prevents freezing so use only enough to give taste. With some mixtures a dash of pepper is nice. The flavoring options are endless.

Orange-Campari Sorbet: Serves 4-6*
Juice of 3-4 large oranges strained, to make ½ cup*
½ cup superfine or bar sugar-or slightly more to taste
21/2 cups water
3 Tbs. Campari
2 large egg whites
Mint leaves to garnish
If using fresh oranges, remove peel, without white pith, from 3 of them. Dissolve sugar in water over low heat then boil for 2 min. without stirring, wiping down pan sides with a wet brush. Pour mixture into a non-metallic shallow, freezer safe container with a cover and add orange peel to steep while mixture cools. When cool add strained orange juice and Campari; cover and chill for at least 30 min. Remove zest and freeze for 1 hour. Transfer mixture to a bowl and beat to break-up ice crystals. Return to freezer container and freeze for 30 min. Repeat twice more. Beat egg whites to stiff peaks and beat into juice mixture and freeze for 30 min. Beat once more. Store covered for 2 months. Serve by the scoop.
*Strained commercial juice can be used and flavors are optional—omitting the Campari.

Melon Sherbet: Serves 6-8
1 medium melon-cantaloupe or casaba
Juice of ½ lemon
4 egg whites
6 oz., sugar-super-fine or ’bar’ sugar is best
¼ -1/2 cup cherries or berries for garnish-optional
Fresh mint leaves for garnish-optional
Cut the melon in half, in a zigzag pattern if to be used it for serving. Remove seeds and cube meat. Blend with the lemon juice until smooth. Pour into a 1 ½ quart container and freeze until beginning to set. Beat the egg whites until stiff and gradually add the sugar. Gently whisk or beat the melon mixture until broken up and light. Fold in the egg whites and return to the freezer and freeze until firmly set. Serve by the scoopful, in the melon shell or dishes. Garnish with fruit and/or mint. Keeps frozen about 1 month.
NOTE: Choose overripe fruit to make sherbet, or blanch it if not quite ripe. It freezes smoother.
A short cut to making sherbet is to freeze a can of fruit in syrup. Puree the frozen contents and combine with eggs and optional ingredients, adjusting quantities to fit the basic recipe. Examples: Peaches with almond extract or Litchi with ginger.

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3 eggs
2 egg yolks
3/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon flavor extract—almond, vanilla etc. –optional but advised
2 egg whites*–also optional recipe
2 cups whipping cream – well chilled
Line a 5 x 9inch loaf pan or 3 quart capacity dish with plastic wrap leaving generous overhangs on long sides.
Place the eggs, egg yolks, flavor extract and ½ the sugar if making meringues, all if not, in a heat proof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water, (a double boiler or Bain Marie). Using a hand held mixer, beat the mixture for 6-8 minutes until custard is pale and thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from heat and beat for an additional 4-6 minutes until cool. In a separate bowl, beat the whipping cream until thick. Gently fold into the egg mixture until smooth. *If adding meringue- beat egg whites in a clean Bain Marie or double boiler over simmering water until soft peaks form, add sugar and continue beating until billowy and glossy. Fold into the eggs and cream. Freeze until firm, at least 6 hours but better overnight, unmold and slice to serve-DO NOT SCOOP OR SPOON.
Note: Semifreddo is intended to contain a mixture of flavors. Chopped fruit, ground nuts or fruit purees are usually incorporated into the whole or just one layer (see puree directions below) to give a color and flavor contrast. 4 oz. of finely chopped chocolate can be added to the custard while hot to make a chocolate semifreddo or just 2 oz. to half the custard to make just one layer. This means the whipped cream and meringue will have to be added in half portions as well.

Berry Puree:
2 cups blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
To make the puree, combine the berries and powdered sugar in a food processor and pulse until smooth. Taste and adjust sugar if necessary. Strain through a mesh strainer.
To make swirls, spoon the blueberry puree over the top and use a spatula to gently fold it into the cream. Otherwise gently fold it into half the finished mixture and pour it into the mold first to make a bottom layer.
Gelato: Serves 4*
6 large eggs
¾ cup superfine or bar
¼ cups milk
1/3 cup heavy cream
1tsp.flavoring-vanilla, butterscotch, mint etc. –optional
2 oz. finely chopped dark chocolate, butterscotch, nuts, candied fruit or cookie crumbs
Beat the eggs and sugar in the top of a double boiler or Bain Marie, until creamy. Stirring, heat the milk and cream to a simmer and add it in a stream to the egg mix while whisking. Heat the mixture in the double boiler over medium heat, stirring constantly until it coats the back of a spoon or the spoon pulled across it leaves a mark on the surface.in. Remove from the heat and add flavoring. Allow to cool at least 1 ½ hr. then chill for 30 min. Strain to remove any lumps, transfer to a freezer container and freeze for 2 hrs. until frozen 1 inch from the sides. Transfer to a bowl and beat until smooth. Stir in chocolate etc., return to the freezer container, smooth the top and lay a piece of plastic wrap directly on top. Cover and freeze for up to 3 months.

Vanilla Ice Cream: Serves 4-6 *
2 ½ cups heavy cream
1 vanilla bean
1 pared zest of 1 lemon
4 eggs beaten
2 egg yolks
6oz. superfine or bar sugar
Whisking, bring the cream to a simmer, add the eggs and lemon zest. Lower the heat and cook 8-10 min. still whisking until thickened. Stir in the sugar remove from the heat, let cool and strain. Open the vanilla bean and scrape the seeds into the egg mixture. Pour the mixture into a shallow freezer container allow to just freeze 1-2 hrs. remove to a bowl, beat and return to the freezer container, cover and freeze overnight or for up to 3 days.
*Although these recipes are basic to the dish, the particular flavoring combinations are from the Summer Foods and Desserts volumes in the Practical Cooking series of book

Quick Banana Pops: Serves 8 in plastic pop sickle molds, 4 in Dixie cups used as molds
1 pt. vanilla ice cream
1 large VERY ripe banana
Wooden sticks if using Dixie cups
While the ice cream softens, mash the banana in a bowl, with a fork until no lumps remain. Combine the two well and fill the molds. Insert the ‘sticks’ and freeze until firm. Rub with a warm cloth to unmold, if necessary. This can also be made in a single mold for table service.*
*If considering substituting other fruits, use them in proportion bearing in mind that bananas have a low pulp/juice ratio and changing that will affect the ability to freeze. Fruits should be very ripe and pureed, then strained if necessary. The addition of sugar depends on the fruit, some powdered may be needed, but remember sugar inhibits freezing, so be sparing.
This tip can also be used to flavor the other dairy based desserts here. Delete the given flavoring agents and replace with the preferred ones. You can use the Berry Puree above as a guide for quantity and swirl (sugar may be needed) or mix (possibly no sugar) into the dessert base ingredients. The best move is to research other recipes for quantities as to specific flavoring agents. Basically any recipe for machine made ice cream type desserts can be processed by hand following the guidelines given here.
Have fun, experiment, be independent and create your flavor for the holiday. For example, the dessert pictured with this post is Espresso Granita garnished with Lemon Thyme. It’s the perfect end to an outdoor dinner, and ’kills two birds with one stone’ because hot coffee isn’t missed.

Mar 31

7 Great Ways To Serve Spring Vegetables

The past couple of weeks I’ve been talking about lightening up our menus when spring produce isn’t ready.  Fortunately, that isn’t too difficult because most produce items are available all year.  Fresh asparagus has been plentiful all winter for the first time, thanks to modern transport, but in mature form, not fresh and young denoting ‘spring’. In fact we even use different terms in reference to gathering vegetables in this season. Normally we say “harvest” but in spring, we say “pluck”.

By now, however, spring produce should be appearing and please watch for it. It will be thinner, brighter and more delicate than the more mature items and the taste will be fresh, light and more subtle. It’s even better if locally sourced and brought to market that day.  These are young and tender vegetables and deserve to be treated in kind. Forget boiling and roasting.  Their texture and taste is best preserved and enjoyed raw with only cleaning, a bit of scraping and/or trimming or brief cooking. The key words here are fresh, easy and fast. I’m going to quote my blog of April 19, 2013 to better explain. To read more click Table of Contents.

“FAST preparation of food refers to methods of cooking raw ingredients quickly, sautéing, grilling, blanching, broiling, or to foods that can be served au natural or prepared ahead and simply plated; sliced raw vegetables and salad greens for instance.

 EASY is a term that seems to go with “Fast”, but not always, because it can involve the prep time as well. ‘The lunch wouldn’t have been so easy if the peas were bought shelled’, and most quick cooking methods require close attention or they may burn. All fresh ingredients usually require some work too. Oh, and are we including clean-up? So “easy” is relative to the meal and, I think, the cook.  Remember, all the T.V. Chefs doing demos on Fast, Easy, Fresh recipes have the prep work done ahead. They don’t stop to measure, run to the cupboard for ingredients, search for clean utensils or wash dishes.

FRESH is the key word here. Frozen or canned foods can be fast, and easy, but fresh stands alone. These days with air freight, refrigerated trucks on super highways, flash freezing and globalization of crops, making produce items always “in season” somewhere, its definition is debatable.  I like to think of “fresh” as recently harvested, hopefully that morning and not too far away. It’s so discouraging to get to market and find the produce jet lagged or travel tired. It’s even worse to buy it and find it has quickly wilted once out of the store’s chilled case. That being said, we are fortunate to have all sorts of fresh produce available to us year round, and if we can’t find fresh, there is always frozen. Actually, frozen is sometimes better than fresh. Often processed on harvesting site, it can be fresher than the transported raw items, and is every bit as nutritious.

Yet, nothing tastes quite as good as fresh, particularly local produce, especially to those who are used to it. However, it can be very expensive even at farmers’ markets which are becoming scarce or combining into co-ops to meet the brick and mortar overhead, upping prices. The best solution is to familiarize yourself with what’s available in your area and when, because for some items these markets are the best bet; early peas in shells, not petit pois, real baby carrots, not the dwarf variety, ramps and my favorite dandelion greens, among them. Other items, like asparagus, that harbinger of spring with a really short season, shallots, green onions or scallions, radishes and Bibb or garden lettuce are more readily found in various types of markets.

Whatever true spring produce you buy, or wherever you buy it, plan ahead for its use, as soon as possible, store it properly and treat it gently—it is only a baby. Don’t over think it, over process it, over season it, over whelm it with other ingredients or over cook it. I’m sharing some starter ideas below to give you direction including a family boiled dressing recipe, which also makes a great mayonnaise, when chilled, without preservatives.  Spring produce combines really well to create tasty salads and, mixed with grains, nuts or a bit of meat or fish builds truly memorable main dishes. This is one area where you can really take off and show your imagination

Asparagus
Break off the woody part of the stems and put the spears in a microwave proof dish in one layer, if possible, no more than two, or cook in batches. Microwave on high 3 to 9 min. depending on the thickness of the stems. If marinating, put drained spears on a serving plate, pour marinade over them and allow it to infuse as the asparagus cools, then refrigerate or serve. If saucing, shock spears with cold water, chill them and sauce before serving or sauce at once and serve hot.
For Marinating: A vinaigrette of choice is best
For Saucing: A plain white sauce is good or optionally for 4 servings combine
1 cup cooled cooking water
1 Tbs. cornstarch
Lemon pepper to taste
Dissolve the cornstarch in the liquid and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly until thickened. Add seasoning to taste. For a richer sauce, add 1 beaten egg yolk to the cooled sauce and reheat, over low, stirring constantly until sauce is quite thick. Check to adjust seasoning.
Garnishes: Asparagus loves to be decorated, with or without a sauce, and will accept many things: sliced or chopped roasted or fresh peppers, chopped eggs, toasted chopped nuts and seeds, anchovies, capers, herbs crumbled bacon, even breadcrumbs.

Green Peas, Lettuce and Scallions (Green Onions) Serves 6
1Tbs. butter
2 heads Bibb lettuce-halved lengthwise
3 bunches scallions—roots and tough green ends trimmed
1 lb. peas- frozen or fresh
1 Tbs. oil
Salt and pepper and/or lemon pepper

Melt the oil in a sauce pan over low heat, gently toss the lettuce and scallions to coat well.  Sprinkle with a little salt and freshly ground pepper. Butter, cover and cook 5 min. stirring once. Add peas, toss to coat well in sauce and add ¼ cup water, cook 5 min. Uncover, increase heat to medium and stir constantly until water evaporates. Adjust seasonings using only lemon pepper. Serve.

Peas and Mint Serves 4-6
1 lb. fresh or frozen peas
¼ cup chopped fresh mint.
2 Tbs. butter
Steam or lightly boil the peas until crisp tender about 5 min or as stated on package. Drain, add mint or butter and toss to coat and mix, Serve at once.
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Peas with Garlic: Serves 4
2 lb. shelled fresh new peas
4-6 cloves garlic-depending on preference
½ lb. cooked ham – cubed
2 Tbs. olive oil
Parmesan cheese
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic cloves and sauté until browned then remove and discard. Add the ham to the pan and turn a minute to coat, add the peas, lower the heat a bit and stir constantly until just crisp-tender. Serve at once with a grinding of fresh black pepper and passing Parmesan as a garnish. This is excellent with a loaf of crusty bread.

My family had 2 favorite dressings for spring salads. One is a vinaigrette made on the spot with the salad, the other a cooked one that is wonderful hot and equally great used as a mayonnaise when chilled, and keeps just as long in the refrigerator.

Vinaigrette Tossed Salad
I recently read an article in Bon Appetit stating that a proper salad should be dressed in layers. If so my family’s been doing it the right way for generations. There are no set quantities. It’s all to preference.
You will need
Sugar
Salt and Pepper
Cider or white wine vinegar
Lemon juice
Olive oil
Garlic powder—optional
Herbs—optional

Cut or slice the vegetables as preference for salad. Blanch asparagus, peas or beans if using. Place then in the bottom of the salad bowl and toss with a few capfuls of cider or white wine vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper. Tear the lettuce or other greens into bite sized pieces and place over the vegetables in the bowl. Drizzle with lemon juice and chill for at least 30 min. Before serving sprinkle with garlic powder and herbs if using and toss with just enough oil to give the greens a sheen. Adjust seasonings toss again and serve.

Hot Boiled Dressing Makes about 2 cups
This dressing is wonderful, cold in place of mayonnaise in sandwiches and salads like potato, chicken, tuna and salmon. Hot it gives a new dimension to spinach and, if you can get them, dandelions.  Young spring spinach is best but the “baby” found pre-packed all year is also acceptable. Just make sure both types of greens are well washed and the hard part of the stems is snapped off. Either salad can be garnished with crumbled bacon. Used cold with the addition of quartered hard boiled eggs it can make a meal.
3 Tbs. sugar
½ tsp. dry mustard
1/8 tsp. paprika
1 Tbs. flour
1 tsp. salt
1 Tbs. butter
½ cup water
½ cup cider vinegar
2 eggs – well beaten
Using the top of a Bain Marie or double boiler, whisk together the first 5 ingredients. Whisk in the next 3 and place top pot over bottom in which the required amount of water is boiling. Cook, constantly stirring, until smooth and butter is melted. Pour a little into the beaten eggs, stirring to prevent curdling, pour the rest of the hot liquid into the eggs. Then return the mixture to the top of the double boiler and cook constantly stirring until mixture is thick and smooth.|
Serve hot over chosen cleaned greens. Do not use over lettuces. All greens will wilt with the heat and lettuces don’t stand up well.
Chill leftover and use as mayonnaise or a salad dressing.

Dec 16

ChristmasTreat, Dessert, Holiday

Fantastic Yet Practical Holiday Desserts

During this season of major holidays we tend to get nostalgic about our traditions. Ask people how they plan to celebrate and the answer will usually have the word “always” in it. Much as we want to cling to the familiar, times, tastes, people and needs change as families evolve and traditions are altered to accommodate the changes.

For example, I still host our Christmas dinner though in a different state. I slow roast the turkey as my mother did, with my grandmother’s stuffing, and serve candied yams but the vegetables are roasted, not steamed, the coleslaw with homemade boiled dressing has been replaced by mixed greens in light vinaigrette and we have fresh cranberry salsa not jellied or whole berry sauce. For the younger children, this is the traditional meal, the one they will remember.

The biggest change is in our schedule for Christmas Day. We’re no longer so close that we can ignore travel time, so we start later. One person usually has professional obligations that evening and night, and it’s more important that he be with us for the dinner than opening the gifts, so we’ve reversed the order of the day. We used to open gifts then eat, now we eat first. As a result the entire dessert portion of the menu is new and developing it has been an eye opener.

As I’ve often mentioned my mother had a knack for freezing blueberries in season. Christmas dessert was parfaits of raspberry sherbet, those berries and whipped cream with platters of homemade cookies. It was a perfect light end to a heavy meal. Back then, presents opened, the kids were happy to stay seated for dessert.  Not so now. Gifts trump dessert and icy parfaits are better consumed at a table, plus they require time to construct just before serving which is inconvenient with the new schedule.

A self-serve dessert table seemed the practical answer and to make it work, I’ve developed a selection of choices which include the most traditional Christmas flavors, any of which would make a good dessert in itself. All can be simply made from mixes, keep well and can be recycled for other holiday events—and beyond.  As I said it’s been a real eye-opener especially for the convenience afforded in serving it.

Usually setting up a dessert table brings its own set of problems. It entails more work, more expense, and implies having even more leftovers to deal with. However, the four recipes below provide solutions, at least for me.  I make them well in advance, take them out of the freezer a couple of hours before dinner, and return the leftovers to the freezer right after to deal with later. I also chose them because they are easy to make; a bonus for busy people or those not familiar with baking.

First a couple of notes:
1) Many baking directions, call for greasing the bottom only not the sides of the pan. The reason for this is that if the batter can adhere to the sides of the pan it won’t rise so high in the center making it easier to roll or to balance layers when filling and frosting them.
2) With the log, I tried many recipes for other cake mixes and they all were too thick to roll well, cracking badly and needing too much filling and/or icing to make them easily.  After several experiments including chocolate, spice, and red Velvet cakes, I now stick to gingerbread.
3) The wine used as an ingredient in the fruitcake is undetectable, making the cake child-friendly, but it  acts as a  preservative so that the cake can be made a few weeks or months in advance. Other alcoholic flavorings are achieved by repeatedly sprinkling with liquor and re-wrapping. It will keep in the refrigerator for several months. Without the applied liquor, it makes wonderful holiday brunch bread.
4)  Opera Cake is intended to be a classic sponge cake with ground almonds in the flour. I make a sponge cake batter for mine, but omit the ground almonds because of allergies. However, when offered as part of a buffet, yellow cake mix will substitute and save effort. For the sponge cake batter recipe I use Julia Child’s.
5) To freeze the cakes, I place them on a paper doily on the serving plate if possible, if not on a waxed paper covered plate. I cover them with supermarket plastic shopping bags, placing toothpicks at strategic locations to prevent the bags from marring the surface of the cake. Re-freezing is the same process.  Leftover presentation tips are with the recipes.
6) Regarding icing for party presentation, I have discovered that microwaving a can of commercial frosting 30-45 sec. liquefies it so it can be spooned over the cake as a glaze and it cools to a shiny finish. .

YULE LOG—Serves 16-18
Using a boxed Gingerbread cake mix, I replace half the water with applesauce, add ¼ cup oil and use 2 eggs. Beat only until well incorporated – about 2 min.
Grease the bottom only of a 19 x 11 inch jelly roll pan. Line it with parchment paper and grease the paper.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees, and bake on the middle rack for 16 to 18 min. until it springs back
when poked lightly with a finger.
Remove from the oven and sprinkle liberally with powdered sugar. Cover with a tea towel, and using a board as a brace invert the cake. Peel off the parchment and roll the long side of the cake in the towel. Resting the edge on the bottom let the cake cool completely.
Meanwhile, beat 8oz. cream cheese with 8oz. Cool Whip until smooth adding:
1 tsp. maple flavored extract
1/3 cup chopped toasted walnuts

Have ready 1 can Cream Cheese flavored frosting

Carefully unroll the cake and fill with the cheese mixture. Re-roll. Trim ends evenly.
Cut a piece about 3 inches long from one end on an angle and position it along the “trunk” to form a branch. Secure it with a bit of frosting.
Frost the cake and add any decorations. Freeze until ready to serve. Allow to thaw 30 to 45 min.
Supervise cutting of this cake. Try to cut slices to retain the proportions if you intend serving it again.
Freeze  on serving plate and refreeze the same way.

MODIFIED OPERA CAKE Serves 10-12
(3) 9 inch round cake pans—available as a 3-pack in a dollar store
Parchment paper or waxed paper
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8 oz. container whipped topping
8 oz. cream cheese
1 tsp. almond extract
1 can dark chocolate frosting
Toasted slivered almonds—optional for garnish
Cut parchment rounds to fit cake pans. Grease pan bottoms and paper rounds. Mix batter according to package directions and place 1/3 in each pan. Bake at package stated temperature for 1/2 the time recommended, usually about 15-18 min. or until top springs back when lightly pressed. Cool then invert onto plates and peel off paper. If necessary, slice tops to level them.
Beat cheese, topping and extract together until smooth. Plate one cake layer and cover with a thin layer of frosting, spread ½ the cheese mixture on top and repeat with a second layer. Top with the 3rd layer even side up making sure it’s level. Remove excess filling from sides with a knife if needed.
Microwave remaining frosting 20-30 sec. until easily pourable but not too runny and using a spoon as a guide if necessary, pour evenly over the top of the cake to create a smooth glazed effect. It’s O.K. if some runs decoratively down the sides. Decorate with toasted slivers of almonds or a sprig of holly in the center.
Re-freeze as at first for later use. Serve leftovers in slices in a circular pattern on a plate.

CRAZY CAKE- Serves 6-8
This is the easiest cake ever, requiring no beating. It keeps well at room temperature for days, and at only 140 calories a piece, is great for dieters.  For this use, I double the recipe, make it in a sheet pan, cut it in thirds (crosswise) and layer it with raspberry preserves and cool whip mixed with cream cheese. See Opera Cake directions above.

1 ½ cups flour
1 cup sugar
3 Tbs. unsweetened cocoa powder
1 tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. salt
3 Tbs. oil
1 Tbs. vinegar—preferably white
1 tsp. vanilla
1 cup cold water
Sift all dry ingredients together, before putting  into an UNGREASED  2”deep x 9”square cake pan. Make 3 holes in the mixture and pour the oil in one, vinegar in a second and vanilla in the third. Pour the water over all and stir with a fork until blended. Bake at 350 degrees for 35-40 min. This recipe can be doubled and baked in a 9”x13” pan to make a sheet cake. Cool, invert onto a board.
Beat until smooth 8 oz. cream cheese with 8 oz. whipped topping .
1 can Vanilla frosting.
8 oz. Raspberry preserves
Cut cake in thirds crosswise to make 3 layers and slice off rounded tops to even if necessary.  Place one layer on a doily covered serving plate. Spread with ½ the cheese mixture and spread with ½ the preserves. Repeat and top with 3rd layer.  Cover with frosting. Garnish with colored sugar or a sprig of holly.
Freeze and refreeze as directed. To serve leftovers, save some frosting and cover sliced ends. If not possible, present slices fanned on a plate.

CHRISTMAS BREAD: Serves 8-10 depending on shape of pan
This is based on two boxed Quick Bread mixes. I like Cranberry and Pumpkin, but have used Date and Nut as well. In fact, I might add them if I were to make more than 2 loaves. I do add dried fruits and nuts to the mix but don’t really measure them. I combine the dry mixes of the same brand, in a bowl and add the total required ingredients.  I substitute red wine for half the water required then add the other ingredients and any add-ins. I decorate and bake as directed in two loaf pans-one per box of mix used.* When the loaves are cool, I sprinkle the tops with about 2 Tbs. of whiskey, cover them in plastic wrap and put them in the refrigerator. I bake them in October and over the next months I repeat the whiskey “shower” every couple of weeks. However, these also make excellent breakfast bread. The loaves I intend for that I don’t sprinkle with whiskey but depend on the wine used in the mixing to preserve them. People who normally hate fruitcake like this, especially with a cup of coffee or tea because it has a lighter texture.

NOTE: This batter rises, so any heavy decorations, nut halves, candied cherries should be placed about halfway through the baking or to they will be absorbed into the loaf.

*For Christmas Dinner presentation I bake half the batter in a tree mold or a regular 9” round cake pan. Please remember the fruit bread is stored in the refrigerator not the freezer. Cut the remainder of the fruit “cake” into interesting shapes or fingers, and present them plated with small squares of a quick muffin fruit mix, like Jiffy, baked in a loaf pan, with sugar and cinnamon sprinkled on top. It creates an economical, efficient and attractive presentation.

Hope this helps solve some problems to make entertaining easier for you.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS EVERYONE!!!!

Dec 2

gifts, holidays

Spotlighting Hosting Gifts For The Holidays

We’re entering the busiest season of the year commercially and socially. One major festive holiday in a month requires planning, this month, in many countries, there are two; one of them associated with presents and both with parties. Perhaps it’s the increased emphasis on “The season of giving”; perhaps it’s heightened awareness of the stress of entertaining,  with the current focus  on a hands-on approach to preparations by the hosts, but nowadays guests feel  obligated to bring a hostess gift to each event. The old stand-bys wine, flowers and candy seem time-worn and trite. People want gifts that seem more sincere and personal. Enter the home-made specialty. However, there are certain rules to follow in giving the home-made gift.

1) A homemade gift is acceptable as long as it’s appropriate for the occasion, the recipient and in its presentation.
Homemade gifts other than commemorative ones aren’t usually acceptable for ceremonial or formal occasions. They are also considered out of place in a professional relationship, because they signify a more personal connection, unless it is something you know will be specifically welcome. Using one of the recipes I’m giving here, to illustrate, if you brought a jug of your Chai Tea to the company picnic last summer, and your boss raved about it, a jar of the mix would be a good gift.  It’s important when considering giving a homemade gift to determine its reception. Otherwise it might be considered at best a cheap way out or at worst a slight.

2) Even in non-professional situations it’s important to know in advance if your gift will be well received.
Make an effort to learn if the person you are gifting has allergies or diet preferences as well as their likes and dislikes. I’m not saying become snoopy dog, but ask others who know this person, or better yet, hold off on the homemade things until you know the giftee better yourself. Incidentally, this is true of any hosting gift. Many things, scented items, potpourri, candles, live arrangements and many foods, can set off allergies. So do your homework and don’t just listen to the T.V. guru’s suggestions
Learning about the recipient might earn you brownie points too. A friend used my recipe for mint sauce for her husband who is diabetic. When she found out that her biggest client’s daughter had it, she gave him a bottle with a list of suggested uses. Ever since she makes 6 bottles for him every Christmas and the account is hers for life.
Most parents of small children avoid feeding them nuts, so a tin of roasted almonds might not be well received in that home.

3) The gift should be appropriate to the timing of the occasion.
Don’t hand a host or hostess something that will demand attention in the midst of a crowded gathering or be awkward for them to deal with at the moment.  Cut flowers need water, large baskets or plants need space and food that has to be temperature controlled requires special treatment. No matter how much thought and work you’ve invested in the offering, your efforts will not be truly appreciated. In fact, they may be remembered in a negative way as having caused an inconvenience.
Also take into consideration the type of occasion and personality of the host or hostess when planning your gift.  If it’s an event where they will probably offer to share, be sure you’ve provided enough.

4) Above all, if you are giving a homemade gift, take care with its presentation.
Make sure it looks professionally turned out. That doesn’t mean “commercial” but simply that it has “eye appeal” that makes one want to open it. Don’t just grab a jar off the pantry shelf, or stuff the almonds in a bag. If it’s a jar or bottle, cover the top with a nice piece of cloth or paper secured with a ribbon. If using a tin, buy a new one, seal around the closure with neatly applied scotch tape and top with a big bow. Be sure to attach a label or tag identifying the contents and, if necessary, an index card listing suggested uses. Smaller bottles look well displayed on colored “grass” in a basket wrapped much like Easter ones.  Jars can be placed in bottle bags. All of the wrappings can be found in a dollar store and with minimal effort the humblest things can be glamorized

5) The last consideration when contemplating giving a homemade gift is quantity.
Excess signals that you undervalue the product, too little looks cheap or stingy. The best thing to do is comparative price shop in stores. See what that product, or a similar one, in different quantities costs. If there are choices, pick the upper price range for your calculations. Estimate the amount you feel appropriate for the gift and then research a few commercial brands to learn the quantity available at your chosen price. The answer is the quantity you should give.  An example is the roasted, salted almonds.  Raw the price is about $10.00 per lb. Gourmet, cooked and gift wrapped their price is between $30.00 and $40.00 per pound. Granted the recipient knows the nuts are home cooked, but your effort is worth the price difference, especially since these are better than the commercial brands. So you must determine if you want to give circa $40.00 or circa $80.00.
It doesn’t have to be just one product either. I often give some of these items singly as token thank-you gifts, but just as often combine several to lend variety into a real present. The gift must suit the individual purpose and each is different.

Below are some of my favorite “gifting” recipes.  All have a long shelf life but the watermelon pickle and bread need refrigeration. The bread needs at least two months to “age”. The pickle and the mint sauce can, and should be made several months ahead by those in colder climates. The Granola and the nuts have a shelf life of a month and should be made in the week prior to giving them. The nuts are the priciest commercially as compared to homemade, so the most impressive gift in that respect.

CHRISTMAS BREAD:

This is kinda cheating because it’s based on two boxed Quick Bread mixes. I like Cranberry and Pumpkin, but have used Date and Nut as well. In fact, I might add them if I were to make more than 2 loaves. I do add dried fruits and nuts to the mix but don’t really measure them. I combine the dry mixes of the same brand, in a bowl and add the total required ingredients.  I substitute red wine for half the water required then add the other ingredients and any add-ins. I decorate and bake as directed in two loaf pans-one per box of mix used. When the loaves are cool, I sprinkle the tops with about 2 Tbs. of whiskey, cover them in plastic wrap and put them in the refrigerator. I bake them in October and over the next months I repeat the whiskey “shower” every couple of weeks. However, these also make excellent breakfast bread. The loaves I intend for that I don’t sprinkle with whiskey but depend on the wine used in the mixing to preserve them. People who normally hate fruitcake like this, especially with a cup of coffee or tea because it has a lighter texture.
NOTE: This batter rises, so any heavy decorations, nut halves, candied cherries should be placed about halfway through the baking or to they will be absorbed into the loaf.

ROASTED ALMONDS:
You need to buy the Raw, Natural Almonds in skins for  this
1 tsp. butter per pound of nuts
Salt to liberally cover=several tablespoons
Cover the almonds with water and bring to a boil. Simmer for 3 -4 min. until some nuts start to float. Working a batch at a time rinse the nuts under cold water and remove the skins by squeezing them. The nut will pop out of its skin. Preheat the oven to 350 deg. Melt the butter on a foil covered cookie sheet. Toss the skinned nuts in the butter and bake them until golden to light brown, tossing occasionally, about 30 min. Watch carefully toward the end because they will burn quickly. Roll the nuts onto paper towels and liberally sprinkle with salt. Cool and place in jars. Allow to stand uncovered several hours. Cover and store in a cool dark place. Will keep about 6 weeks. I use glass jars for storage, but for gifts I buy tins that hold either 1 or 2 pounds.  At Christmas, I fill decorative mugs with nuts, seal them with plastic wrap and top with a bow. They make great informal gifts.

CHAI TEA
Although there are plenty of recipes out there for instant chai tea, I think they miss the mark. They require several powdered commercial products, including the tea, are pre-sweetened and you end up spooning a finished mixture into water. This is O.K. if you want to make it for yourself, but as a present, it’s like giving someone a jar of instant coffee. It’s far more elegant to give a jar of actual tea with spices that can be steeped and flavored to order, and more economical too– commercial add-ins cost money. Use black tea leaves or if you can only find blended, opt for a breakfast one. Avoid green tea. Its flavor is too weak to stand up to the spices.

1 cup tea leaves
12 whole cloves
12 cardamom pods – slightly crushed
4 cinnamon sticks broken in pieces
2 inches of peeled ginger root chopped
6 whole black peppercorns (optional)
6 whole allspice (optional)
The two options are nods to the fact that chai tea is popular throughout Asia and the recipe differs from country to country. I use both. FOR A GIFT: place everything together in a jar with a tight lid and attach brewing instructions. TO BREW: Sprinkle 2 Tbs. tea over 1 cup cold water. Allow to boil for 30-45 sec. Then steep for 4 min. Strain and pour into 2 cups. Add milk to equal 2 cups and sugar to taste. Serve cool

GRANOLA CRISPS
Another “gourmet” food that is expensive to buy commercially but inexpensive and easy to make.
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1 cup whole wheat flour
3 cups rolled oats
1 cup brown sugar packed
6 Tbs. butter (1/2 lb.) butter melted
½ cup water
Pinch salt
Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Whisk the dry ingredients together with  the butter into hot water, then pour the liquid over the dry ingredients and mix well, incorporating any add-ins  using as many of them as you like. Spread the batter out on cookie sheets and bake until light brown and crisp, about  ½ hr. Cool on the sheets, break into pieces and store in air-tight containers.  I find tins do well for this.
ADD-INS; Shredded coconut, raisons, dried cranberries or other dried fruits, peanuts, almonds or other nuts, sunflower or  toasted sesame seeds, and/or spices like cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg.

MINT SAUCE:
4 cups fresh mint –tough  stems removed
Cider vinegar to cover
Sugar or substitute such as Splenda, to taste
Simmer the mint and vinegar in a pot until the leaves are cooked, about 8 min. Add sweetener to taste as the mint cooks. Do not over do. This should be sweet-sour when finished. Remove from heat, cool and process or blend until the mint is finely ground. Correct taste and pour into clean glass bottles. Let stand, uncapped until completely cool, cap and store in a dark, dry, cool place. Keeps for two years or more.
Use in salads, on cooked vegetables and to marinate or baste meat.
NOTE: I use sterilized salad dressing bottles.

WATERMELON PICKLE:
1 Watermelon- Green rind peeled and meat removed. White rind cut in 1 inch cubes.
1 cup cider vinegar per pound
1 cup water per pound
1 ½ cup sugar per pound
3 inches stick cinnamon per pound
4 cloves per pound
1 Tbs. sliced ginger root per pound
Cover melon cubes with salted water and soak for 2 hrs. Drain and rinse well.  Boil in fresh water until half tender, about 10 min. Drain again and rinse in cool water. Weigh melon and measure the other ingredients into a pot accordingly and boil them for about ½ hr. until a syrup forms. Add drained melon rind and boil for another 10 min. or until rind is crisp-tender. Allow to cool and pack cubes with syrup, including spices, to cover, into glass jars with secure fitting lids. Store refrigerated

CHUTNEY: Makes 1 1/3 cups
2cups peeled, cored and chopped apples
½ cup chopped onion
½ cup raisins
1/3 cup cider vinegar
¼ cup brown sugar
¼ cup water
2 Tbs. candied citron*
1 Tbs. curry powder
½ tsp. salt
½ tsp. ground ginger
1/8 tsp. ground cloves
1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
2cloves garlic-minced
Put everything into a pot and cook over low heat for 50 min. stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Cool and pour into jars of about 4 oz. each. This keeps for months in a cool dry place but once open , refrigeratee.

*Candied citron in the main ingredient in the candied  fruits sold for Christmas baking. Related to the lime it’s the palest of the fruits in the mix.

 

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