COMBINED SALAD DINNERS

With warmer weather, we no longer want the hearty warming dishes of winter and, though we crave lighter foods and more temperate recipes, we aren’t quite ready for the cold entrees of summer either. For several years at this time,(see posts for 7/6/17,   6/8/17   , 1/26/17,     8/12/15)  I’ve been enjoying a newer type of dinner salad which is more casual than classic, composed dinner salads, like Cobb and Nicoise, yet more nutritious than buffed-up sides, like Caesar with chicken or shrimp. 

Technically, these renditions are in the ‘combined salads’ category, without claiming that fad diet’s ulterior motive of specific health or cosmetic benefits. They simply provide a balanced, nutritious, tasty meal. However, their current popularity is due in large to the Millennial’s demand for top quality foods. If higher prices, say for grass-fed beef, limits them to smaller quantities, then they adjust the protein value of the meal with the addition of nuts, seeds, grains or cheese, but they insist on the best ingredients.

This new type of dinner salad is an easily constructed entrée, especially with fresh produce, differing in preparation and presentation to maintain the identity of those ingredients. They’re cut in larger pieces, not diced, to indicate when possible the shape of the whole and arranged in layers. The flavor is a medley of individual bites of contrasting or complimentary tastes, rather than a single one unifying the whole dish. Presentations aren’t scripted. A photo might be captioned “Suggested Appearance” not  “Approved Plating”. Fortunately, with fresh produce always available, healthy combined salads can be enjoyed all year.

There’s also a fun aspect to these salads because the recipes are ‘open.’ Growing familiarity not just with different cuisines and their ingredients, but experimenting with those ingredients and finding new uses for them has resulted in ‘Fusion Cuisines’ and made cooking an eating adventure, and combined salads can easily fit into the ‘Fusion’ category.

Ingredients crossing cuisines isn’t new, herbs and spices like cilantro and ginger have figured in both Eastern and Western ones for centuries. Stone fruits, native to Asia, are the base for traditional recipes in many cuisines. What is new is these products are being used in a wider variety of ways. Realizing that tomatoes, avocados and olives are fruits, accepted in serious salads for years, we are now letting other fruits, long favored as accompaniments to meat, join them and not just as accents, but as key players.

The changed construction of combined salads requires a change in dressings. Heavy ones are out, lighter ones which complement the flavors are preferred and a drizzle of oil subtly unites those flavors but DIY is often recommended. Depending on the contents, many regular types of vinaigrette are a bit strong because fruits are acidic themselves. The touch of acid zing in the dressing is best delivered by the addition of citrus juice.  Lemon and lime are regulars, but orange, grapefruit and other juices are often appropriate. If a creamy one is called for it will be based on sour cream or yogurt.

If I’m sautéing the meat, I frequently use the pan juice as dressing base or a bit of broth or the juice of a fruit ingredient, adding oil, citrus juice and/or zest and more of the herbs of the dish. Fresh herbs are another plus, the leaves used as actual ingredients, can really add bulk. One herb I’ve come to depend on in all salads is mint. Its flavor merges with anything and adds zip, losing its own distinct identity.

As to compiling the salads themselves, aside from healthy and fresh, nearly anything goes. Mandolins make slicing a breeze, and cross sections of the vegetables form their own bedding, so lettuces can be torn and sprinkled among the other items, adding color. Carrots and celery aren’t as visible, red and green onions replace white ones but bell peppers and tomatoes are still regulars, joined by fennel, zucchini and radishes. I use any vegetables I have, green beans, broccoli, cauliflower and fruits, especially the stone ones and berries, fresh in season, but frozen or dried when not.  In winter, to make the salads more fortifying, I add wheat pasta but smaller sizes or broken strands, brown or wild rice and I like to grill slices of the fresh citrus fruits available then.

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The important thing to remember is that everything is tailor-made to each meal and unless recorded in detail can be replicated but not repeated. Part of the emphasis on freshness, and fun of these meals is the fact that they are unique to the moment and following guidelines is much easier than the demands of a specific recipe. The only way to ‘mess-up’ is to over season the dressing but if you proceed cautiously, consistently tasting you’ll be fine and soon it becomes second nature to whip up a meal in no time.

Also remember that grains, nuts and seeds are vital to maintaining the nutritional values of combined salads. For the complete run-down on grains, the types, textures, flavors and best uses go to the post for Sept. 21, 2017, Using Grains the New Way. For information on buying nuts the post, Defining Organics and Other Natural Food Terms, March 2, 2017, may be of help. Choosing the right greens, for taste, texture and pairing with the other ingredients in a given salad see How to Choose the Right Lettuce for a Salad June 1. 2017.

RECIPES

Grilled Steak Salad: Serves 4
1-1 ½ lb . boneless sirloin or top round
2small Japanese eggplants
3 zucchini
2 red bell peppers
2 medium onions
4 oz. button mushroom caps
2 Tbs. lemon juice
2 Tbs. oil
2 oz. snow pea or bean sprouts–optional
1 small head green leaf lettuce
1 cup cooked wild rice
¼ cup olive oil
2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
½ cup fresh basil leaves sliced thin
Trim meat of fat. Combine juice and oil and marinate beef at least 1 hr. Slice eggplant and lay flat, covered in salt until it ‘sweats’, about 15 min. Rinse well and pat dry. Meanwhile slice zucchini into 1 inch pieces, peppers into ¾ inch strips and onions into thick rings, halve rings and large mushroom caps. Remove beef from marinade, add vegetables and marinate at least 30 min. at room temperature, tossing often. Grill meat on a lightly greased rack about 2 min. on each side to sear. Remove to cooler side of grill and cook an additional 2 min. per side for medium rare. Cool on a plate and slice thinly. Drain vegetables and grill in batches until golden and crisp tender, about 5 min . per batch. Combine balsamic and oil in a bottle and shake well. Arrange meat slices around one edge of each plate. Fill the rest of the plate with torn lettuce leaves topped with the vegetables tossed with the rice. Drizzle with the dressing and garnish with the sprouts, if using, and basil.
This can be served hot as made, or done ahead with the lettuce, meat and garnishes chilled, while the rest is held at room temperature. The meat and vegetables can also be cooked under the broiler.

Shrimp-Avocado Salad: Serves 4
1 lb. cooked large shrimp
2 avocados-peeled, each half cut in 4 slices
(1) 8oz. bag spinach leaves
1 small cucumber thinly sliced
2 large oranges – sections removed and ½ tsp. grated peel
2 oz. watercress
1 cup cooked quinoa
3 Tbs. olive oil
1Tbs.lemon juice
1 ½ Tbs. orange juice
¼ tsp. honey
1 tsp. chopped parsley
Place the last 5 ingredients in a jar and shake well to make the dressing. Arrange the spinach on plates or a large platter, top with watercress, tossed with the quinoa, if using, then onion rings . Place the avocado slices and orange segments in a circle and pile the shrimp in the center. Drizzle with the dressing and garnish with the zested orange peel.
This salad should be served as made, but all the components can be prepped ahead and kept chilled.

Asian Chicken Salad: Serves 4
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, or 1 whole chicken in 4 parts.
1 tsp. grated ginger root
2 Tbs. soy sauce
1 large clove garlic-crushed
2 Tb. oil –to lightly grease the grill or sauté indoors
1 cup cooked short grain brown rice
1 avocado-peeled and sliced
3 scallions sliced diagonally
1 1/2 oz. snow peas sliced diagonally
1 head of red leaf lettuce
¼ cup Thai Sweet Chili Sauce
2 Tbs. rice wine vinegar
2 Tbs. oil
¼ cup chopped dry roasted peanuts or pistachios
Marinate the chicken in the next 3 ingredients at least 3 hours or overnight. Grill the chicken or sauté in oil, drain and cool. Place the cooked rice in the used pan or a lightly oiled one, spread it out and allow to crisp in the bottom. Remove pan from heat. Quickly blanch snow peas. Place Chili sauce, 2 Tbs. vinegar and 2 Tbs. oil in a jar and shake to make dressing. Place the chicken pieces around one side of a platter or each plate . Place pieces of the ‘rice cake’ around the opposite one and fill the center of the platter or plate with the torn lettuce leaves, top with the snow peas, avocado slices and scallion. Drizzle with the dressing and garnish with the nuts.
This too can be served hot as made or prepped ahead and the ingredients, except the nuts, kept chilled, but the flavor of the meat is best at room temperature or above.

Lamb Salad with Mint: Serves 4
1-1 ½ lb. boneless lamb—a small rolled leg or tenderloin are best*
1 large head red leaf lettuce
3 scallions sliced diagonally
4 oz. grape tomatoes- halved
1 cup cooked barley–optional
¼ cup olive oil
½ tsp. Dijon mustard
1 Tbs. white wine vinegar
1 Tbs. chopped mint + extra for garnish
½ tsp. sugar
4 oz. crumbled Feta cheese
1 Tbs. oil
¼ cup chopped, toasted pecans or cashews
Combine olive oil, vinegar, mustard, sugar and mint in a jar, add barley, if using, and shake well.
Trim meat well and sauté over medium heat in 1 Tbs. oil until medium rare, about 8 min., turning often, or grill on a lightly oiled rack. Cool meat, thinly slice diagonally and tent until ready to serve . Place the sliced lamb around a platter or plates. Tear the lettuce and toss with tomatoes, scallions and barley with dressing and fill the remainder of the plates. Top with cheese, and garnish with extra mint and nuts.
This like the other dinners can be stored, chilled separately until ready to be served or served warm.
*Note: Very thinly sliced rib chops can be used as well. 12 chops =2 ½ lbs. will yield the same amount of meat as the recipe states, allowing for the weight of the bones. The same cooking directions apply.

Ham and Cabbage: Serves 4—A wonderful ‘special event’ presentation with a baked ham, the salad in a large bowl and the garnishes passed on the side.
1 – 1 ½ lb. Deli ham sliced ¼ inch thick—or freshly carved from a baked ham
8 oz. red cabbage- shredded
8 oz. green cabbage-shredded
2 baked medium sized yams, cooled and torn in bite size pieces
4 scallions thinly sliced
1/3 cup + 1 Tbs. olive oil
3 Tbs. white wine vinegar
½ tsp. Dijon mustard
¼ tsp. sugar
1 Tbs. caraway seeds-divided 1 tsp.in reserve
Combine the last 5 ingredients in a jar and shake to make a dressing . Allow flavors to meld for several hours. The yams can be cooked in a microwave until tender and torn when cool. Toss the yams and cabbage with the dressing. Place in a bowl and garnish with the reserved seeds. Slice the ham at table and pass the salad with extra caraway seeds on the side.
Alternatively, line one side of each plate with sliced ham and fill the rest of the space with the cabbage mix. Garnish with the caraway seeds.

Sweet and Sour Pork Salad: Serves 4
1- 1 ½ lb. pork tenderloin*
2 Tbs. soy sauce
1 Tbs. warm honey

1 Tbs. dry sherry
1 Tbs. oil
8 oz. Chinese cabbage-shredded
1 carrot- shredded with a vegetable peeler
3 scallions thinly sliced diagonally
4 red radishes—thinly sliced
½ cup Bulgur
(1) 15 oz. can pineapple rings-drained, juice reserved
2 Tbs. oil
¼ cup white wine vinegar
1 tsp. brown sugar
1 Tbs. Wasabi cashews if available or toasted chopped walnuts
Marinate the meat in the next 3 ingredients overnight. Saute pork in the 1 Tbs. oil, basting with the marinade, until just done, about 10 min. or grill on a lightly oiled rack; cool, thinly slice and tent . Meanwhile, measure reserved juice minus 1 Tbs. and add water to make 1 cup. Place ½ cup Bulgar in the juice and allow to sit for 30 min. Combine vinegar, 2 Tbs. oil, 1 Tbs. juice and brown sugar in a jar and shake to make a dressing. Toss the vegetables with the Bulgar. Plate the meat slices around the edge of a plate, or to one side, fill the center with the cabbage mix and lay the pineapple rings decoratively on top. Drizzle with the dressing. Garnish with the nuts if using.
*NOTE: Very thin, boneless center-cut chops will do, in the same weight as stated above. The same cooking directions apply.
Bourbon Pork Salad: Serves 4
1 lb. pork tenderloin
1 large sweet potato-diced
1 cup cooked lentils
2 large fresh peaches, nectarines or 6 small apricots-sliced OR (1) 15 oz. can apricots pitted, in quarters
1 onion-sliced thin
6 cups arugula-torn in bit sized pieces
1 Tbs. + oil
Salt
1 Tbs. EACH cumin ans paprika
1 clove garlic-smashed
3 Tbs. cider vinegar
2 Tbs. brown sugar
¾ cup bourbon
Position oven racks in upper and lower thirds of oven and preheat to 400 deg. Toss potato with oil, lightly salt and place in a single layer on a cookie sheet. Combine spices, garlic, ½ tsp. salt and 1 Tbs. sugar. Lightly oil the meat and rub with spice mix, place on a foil-lined baking sheet . Roast potatoes on upper oven rack about 30 min, until golden and pork on lower one until coked through about 20 min. Meanwhile, heat reserved sugar and bourbon in a small pan to dissolve sugar, then boil for about 3 min. to remove alcohol, reduce heat and add fruit for 2 min. Remove the fruit with a slotted spoon and reserve. Add vinegar and onion to the pan and allow to pickle for about 8 min. Toss lentils, arugula, potato with dressing to taste, plate  top with fruit, surrounded by pork slices. Pass remaining dressing on the side.