COMBINED SALAD DINNERS

Combined salads were introduced over a decade ago as a result of grass fed beef being replaced in markets by the relatively tasteless corn fed.  Grass fed beef became available only in select butcher shops at exorbitant prices. The solution was to stretch the meat, one pound feeding 6-8, rather than 3-4, and fill the plate with a unique type of salad, tailored to that meal, full of carbs and fiber but also containing grains, nuts and seeds which raise the protein value to a healthy nutritional level.

Making salad a major part of the entrée also fits with our desire for a healthier, lighter diet, relying more on whole foods and less on processed ones. The concept is easy to prep, serve, clean and economical when its potential for leftovers or Deli meats, is understood.

The salads differ in preparation and presentation because we want to maintain the identity of the fresh ingredients. So we cut them in larger pieces like wedges and indicate, when possible, the shape of the whole item by slicing not dicing and arranging in layers. The flavor is a medley of individual bites of contrasting or complimentary tastes, rather than the traditional single one, which unifies the whole dish by mixing chopped ingredients. Presentations are casual, even rustic rather than scripted. A photo might be captioned “Suggested Appearance” not “Approved Plating”.

Improved transportation, refrigeration and dehydration methods gave us a growing familiarity not just with different cuisines but their ingredients as well. Experimenting with those ingredients and finding new uses for them has resulted in many ‘Fusion Cuisines’ and made cooking and eating fun adventures. Combined salads, ideally spontaneously created to fit a time, season and meat, allow us to test our new knowledge.

Ingredients crossing cuisines isn’t new, herbs and spices like cilantro and ginger have figured in both Eastern and Western ones for centuries. Stone fruits, native to Asia, are the base for traditional recipes in many cuisines. What is new is these products are being used in a wider variety of ways. Tomatoes, avocados and olives are fruits, accepted in salads for years, but we now let other fruits, long favored as accompaniments to meat or desserts, join in, not just as accents, but as key players. Fresh herbs are another plus, the leaves used as actual ingredients, can really add bulk. One herb I’ve come to depend on in all salads is mint. Its flavor merges with anything and adds zip, losing its own distinct identity

The changed construction of the salads requires a change in dressings. Lighter ones which complement the flavors are preferred and a drizzle of oil subtly unites those flavors but DIY is often recommended. Depending on the contents, many regular types of vinaigrette can be a bit strong, because fruits are acidic themselves. The touch of acid zing in the dressing is best delivered by the addition of citrus juice. Lemon and lime are regulars, but orange, grapefruit and other juices are often appropriate. If I’m sautéing the meat, I frequently use the pan juice as dressing base or a bit of broth or the juice of a fruit ingredient, adding oil, citrus juice and/or zest and more of the herbs of the dish. 

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One thing is certain, heavy, thick dressings are out. Replacing them are not ‘substitutes’ but actual dressing recipes. I remember my first dinner in France. I was served a plate of what looked like gleaming Bibb lettuce leaves and was surprised in the first bite by the most vibrant tasting Blue Cheese dressing I’d ever eaten. It was totally invisible, except as a sheen on the leaves, but oh so good! The recipe, a classic in France, is a good example of ‘structured’ DIY. It follows a definite procedure but adjusts for the occasion. Simply dissolve about 1 Tbs. blue cheese in about ½ cup olive oil, and fresh lemon juice. All measurements are to taste, dominant with the plain lettuce, or to compliment a specific combination of ingredients.

For the ‘creamy’ dressings based on sour cream or yogurt, oil is usually omitted, but citrus zest and/or juice, herbs, seasonings, and often, a touch of seasoned vinegar is added. Again, the mixture depends on the composition of the salad but the list of probable additives remains generally stable, nuts, seeds, spices etc.

As to compiling the salads themselves, there are two main requirements healthy and fresh, otherwise nearly anything goes. Mandolins make slicing a breeze, and cross sections of the vegetables form their own bedding, so lettuces can be torn and sprinkled among the other items, adding color. Carrots and celery aren’t as visible, red and green onions replace white ones but bell peppers and tomatoes are still regulars, joined by newcomers fennel, zucchini and radishes. I use any vegetables I have, green beans, broccoli, cauliflower and fruits, especially the stone ones and berries, fresh in season, but frozen, dried even leftovers will do. To make the salads more fortifying, I add potatoes, wheat pasta but smaller sizes or broken strands, brown or wild rice and, in winter, I like grilled slices of fresh citrus fruits.

The important thing to remember is that everything is tailor-made to each meal and unless recorded in detail can be replicated but not repeated. Part of the emphasis on freshness, and fun of these meals is the fact that they are unique to the moment and following guidelines is much easier than the demands of a specific recipe. The only way to ‘mess-up’ is to over season the dressing but if you proceed cautiously, consistently tasting you’ll be fine and soon it becomes second nature to whip up a meal in no time.

Actually,  combined salad dinners are a win-win solution with autumn and busy winter schedules nearing. The fresh ingredients can be prepped and waiting, chilled in water and a healthy dinner can be on the table in short order with very little effort or mess. Get in some practice now when produce is in and by fall you’ll be an old hand with ideas for ready combinations from your fridge at your fingertips.

It’s also a matter of preference if the dinner is served warm, room temperature or cold. In fact, there are some wonderful recipes for dinners that can be served all three ways and are great for spur-of-the-moment, loose schedules or ‘iffy’ weather problems. I’m talking about the new take on salads which I discussed in detail in the posts of 8/12/15 and 1/26/17. These are not classic ‘dinner salads’ like Cobb and Nicoise, which are recognized dishes, but ones that become part of the entrée in a ‘free-form’ way, resulting in a nutritious and very personalized meal.

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The flavor composition of these salads is focused on the meat featured. In this way the meat remains the centerpiece of the entree. The effect is one of elegant simplicity, with a promise of bright, fresh flavor; a dinner able to be totally consumed without guilt, adding the satisfaction of having eaten not just well, but wisely.

The following recipes are examples of these salads. Please understand that they’re more suggestions as to quantity and compatible foods than set dishes. Feel free to change them, remove or add ingredients, or invent new dressings as you like.  A knife is still a must, but a mandolin is a handy kitchen tool to easily slice vegetables into even layers for a nicer presentation.

RECIPES

Grilled Steak Salad: Serves 4 (I highly recommend this)
1 lb. boneless sirloin or top round
2 small Japanese eggplants
3 zucchini
2 red bell peppers
2 medium onions
4 oz. button mushroom caps
2 Tbs. lemon juice
2 Tbs. oil
2 oz. snow pea or bean sprouts–optional
1 small head green leaf lettuce
1 cup cooked wild rice
¼ cup olive oil
2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
½ cup fresh basil leaves sliced thin
Trim meat of fat. Combine juice and oil and marinate beef at least 1 hr. Slice eggplant and lay flat, covered in salt until it ‘sweats’, about 15 min. Rinse well and pat dry. Meanwhile slice zucchini into 1 inch pieces, peppers into ¾ inch strips and onions into thick rings, halve rings and large mushroom caps. Remove beef from marinade, add vegetables and marinate at least 30 min. at room temperature, tossing often. Grill meat on a lightly greased rack about 2 min. on each side to sear. Remove to cooler side of grill and cook an additional 2 min. per side for medium rare. Cool on a plate and slice thinly. Drain vegetables and grill in batches until golden and crisp tender, about 5 min. per batch. Combine balsamic and oil in a bottle and shake well. Arrange meat slices around one edge of each plate. Fill the rest of the plate with torn lettuce leaves topped with the vegetables tossed with the rice. Drizzle with the dressing and garnish with the sprouts, if using, and basil.
This can be served hot as made, or done ahead with the lettuce, meat and garnishes chilled, while the rest is held at room temperature. The meat and vegetables can also be cooked under the broiler.

Shrimp-Avocado Salad: Serves 4
1 lb. cooked large shrimp
2 avocados-peeled, each half cut in 4 slices
(1) 8oz. bag spinach leaves
1 small cucumber thinly sliced
2 large oranges – sections removed and ½ tsp. grated peel
2 oz. watercress
1 cup cooked quinoa
3 Tbs. olive oil
1Tbs.lemon juice
1 ½ Tbs. orange juice
¼ tsp. honey
1 tsp. chopped parsley
Place the last 5 ingredients in a jar and shake well to make the dressing. Arrange the spinach on plates or a large platter, top with watercress, tossed with the quinoa, if using, then onion rings. Place the avocado slices and orange segments in a circle and pile the shrimp in the center. Drizzle with the dressing and garnish with the zested orange peel.
This salad should be served as made, but all the components can be prepped ahead and kept chilled.

Asian Chicken Salad: Serves 4
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, or 1 whole chicken in 4 parts.
1 tsp. grated ginger root
2 Tbs. soy sauce
1 large clove garlic-crushed
2 Tb. oil –to lightly grease the grill or sauté indoors
1 cup cooked short grain brown rice
1 avocado-peeled and sliced
3 scallions sliced diagonally
1 1/2 oz. snow peas sliced diagonally
1 head of red leaf lettuce
¼ cup Thai Sweet Chili Sauce
2 Tbs. rice wine vinegar
2 Tbs. oil
¼ cup chopped dry roasted peanuts or pistachios
Marinate the chicken in the next 3 ingredients at least 3 hours or overnight. Grill the chicken or sauté in oil, drain and cool. Place the cooked rice in the used pan or a lightly oiled one, spread it out and allow to crisp in the bottom. Remove pan from heat. Quickly blanch snow peas. Place Chili sauce, 2 Tbs. vinegar and 2 Tbs. oil in a jar and shake to make dressing. Place the chicken pieces around one side of a platter or each plate. Place pieces of the ‘rice cake’ around the opposite one and fill the center of the platter or plate with the torn lettuce leaves, top with the snow peas, avocado slices and scallion. Drizzle with the dressing and garnish with the nuts.
This too can be served hot as made or prepped ahead and the ingredients, except the nuts, kept chilled, but the flavor of the meat is best at room temperature or above.

Lamb Salad with Mint: Serves 4
1-1 ½ lb. boneless lamb—a small rolled leg or tenderloin are best*
1 large head red leaf lettuce
3 scallions sliced diagonally
4 oz. grape tomatoes- halved
1 cup cooked barley–optional
¼ cup olive oil
½ tsp. Dijon mustard
1 Tbs. white wine vinegar
1 Tbs. chopped mint + extra for garnish
½ tsp. sugar
4 oz. crumbled Feta cheese
1 Tbs. oil
¼ cup chopped, toasted pecans or cashews
Combine olive oil, vinegar, mustard, sugar and mint in a jar, add barley, if using, and shake well.
Trim meat well and sauté over medium heat in 1 Tbs. oil until medium rare, about 8 min., turning often, or grill on a lightly oiled rack. Cool meat, thinly slice diagonally and tent until ready to serve. Place the sliced lamb around a platter or plates. Tear the lettuce and toss with tomatoes, scallions and barley with dressing and fill the remainder of the plates. Top with cheese, and garnish with extra mint and nuts.
This like the other dinners can be stored, chilled separately until ready to be served or served warm.
*Note: Very thinly sliced rib chops can be used as well. 12 chops =2 ½ lbs. will yield the same amount of meat as the recipe states, allowing for the weight of the bones. The same cooking directions apply.

Ham and Cabbage: Serves 4—A wonderful ‘special event’ presentation with a baked ham, the salad in a large bowl and the garnishes passed on the side.
1 – 1 ½ lb. Deli ham sliced ¼ inch thick—or freshly carved from a baked ham
8 oz. red cabbage- shredded
8 oz. green cabbage-shredded
2 baked medium sized yams, cooled and torn in bite size pieces
4 scallions thinly sliced
1/3 cup + 1 Tbs. olive oil
3 Tbs. white wine vinegar
½ tsp. Dijon mustard
¼ tsp. sugar
1 Tbs. caraway seeds-divided 1 tsp.in reserve
Combine the last 5 ingredients in a jar and shake to make a dressing. Allow flavors to meld for several hours. The yams can be cooked in a microwave until tender and torn when cool. Toss the yams and cabbage with the dressing. Place in a bowl and garnish with the reserved seeds. Slice the ham at table and pass the salad with extra caraway seeds on the side.
Alternatively, line one side of each plate with sliced ham and fill the rest of the space with the cabbage mix. Garnish with the caraway seeds.

Sweet and Sour Pork Salad: Serves 4
1- 1 ½ lb. pork tenderloin*
2 Tbs. soy sauce
1 Tbs. warm honey
1 Tbs. dry sherry
1 Tbs. oil
8 oz. Chinese cabbage-shredded
1 carrot- shredded with a vegetable peeler
3 scallions thinly sliced diagonally
4 red radishes—thinly sliced
½ cup Bulgar
(1) 15 oz. can pineapple rings-drained, juice reserved
2 Tbs. oil
¼ cup white wine vinegar
1 tsp. brown sugar
1 Tbs. Wasabi cashews if available or toasted chopped walnuts
Marinate the meat in the next 3 ingredients overnight. Sauté pork in the 1 Tbs. oil, basting with the marinade, until just done, about 10 min. or grill on a lightly oiled rack; cool, thinly slice and tent. Meanwhile, measure reserved juice minus 1 Tbs. and add water to make 1 cup. Place ½ cup Bulgar in the juice and allow to sit for 30 min. Combine vinegar, 2 Tbs. oil, 1 Tbs. juice and brown sugar in a jar and shake to make a dressing. Toss the vegetables with the Bulgar. Place the meat slices around the edge of a plate, or to one side, fill the center with the cabbage mix and lay the pineapple rings decoratively on top. Drizzle with the dressing. Garnish with the nuts if using.
*NOTE: Very thin, boneless center-cut chops will do, in the same weight as stated above. The same cooking directions apply.
*NOTE: Most of these recipes are adapted from ones in Confident Cooking’s Sensational Salads published by Konemann.