Aspics or Gelees and other classic cold entrees are perfect for Memorial Day which has fewer traditions than other U.S. holidays regarding food. There are no festive feasts or particular dishes associated with the occasion. For most people the three-day weekend affords time for a quick trip or to prepare for summer. It’s a chance to test the grill, but again, to be ready for the coming season.

However, it is a holiday and nice to have something special on hand to observe it. At such a busy time roasts and other entrees, standard for most occasions, are too time-consuming to cook and serve. We want lighter fare, more suitable to the warming weather, easier to prepare and eat as well as readily available in keeping with full, often shifting, schedules.

Enter some old-fashioned, even antique recipes for cold entrees which used to star at summer buffets. Given a modern twist, they’re easy to fix well in advance and several can optionally be based on commercially prepared items or leftovers, yet they can dress-up a dinner with the best whether to treat family or entertain guests.

I give 7 recipes below which will do the trick for any spring dinner and I mark and list the shortcuts in preparing certain ones as well.

RECIPES

Ham en Croute:

Serves 10-12
(1) 8 lb. cooked ham –boned preferably, canned is fine
Pastry for a 2 crust pie
1 egg –beaten
2 Tbs. heavy cream
Roll out about ¾ of the dough (If using 2 packaged pie crusts, moisten the edges to stick them together) into an oval shape, about 1/8 inch thick. Place ham in the center and fold up and around to cover about ¾ of it. Roll out the remaining dough to make an oval to cover the top and over-lap pressing edges together to flute. Combine egg and cream and brush dough. Use dough scraps to make decorations and brush with egg. Can be stored now, chilled. Bake in a preheated 450 deg. for 30 min. If baked far ahead and dough becomes soggy, re-crisp in a preheated oven for5-7 min.

Poached Salmon:

Serves 6
6 salmon steaks or filets
1 envelope bouillon granules-optional
1 Tbs. dill weed
½ cup mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
Lime wedges or cucumber slices for garnish-optional

Bring enough water to cover fish in one layer to a boil in a pot. Cook in two batches if necessary. Cover and simmer 10 min. Run pieces of fish under cold water until cool enough to handle skin and bone if necessary. Otherwise place the fish on a plate and chill until serving time. Mix the mayonnaise, dill and sour cream and chill for at least 2 hours to meld flavors. Serve fish cold, topped with mayo mix and garnished as desired.

NOTE: The directions in the next 3 recipes are for serving directly from the dish. To present the mold free-standing the order of assembly is reversed with the garnish arranged first and the layers built on it. Two tips for easing this process are: 1) Just before use, rinse the mold or dish with water but don’t dry. That film of water helps keep the contents from sticking to the hard surface and facilitates unmolding.
2) Pour a thin layer of the liquid in the mold and let it harden before placing the garnish or first layer of the contents. Cover with enough liquid to leave a thin layer on top and chill. Repeat this process before adding each new layer ending with a layer of liquid.
3) Unmold by placing container in a bowl of very hot water for 10 sec. and inverting on the serving plate. If ‘encouragement’ is needed, slip a blunt tipped knife up on side of the mold to allow some air in.

Beef in Gelee:

Serves 6
6 slices cold roast beef-Deli or leftover pot roast work too
½ tsp. EACH thyme and basil
2 cans condensed consommé
2 envelopes unflavored gelatin
1tsp.Worcestershire sauce
Pinch cayenne pepper
Salt and pepper
½ cup cold water
1 small carrot sliced and cooked
½ green bell pepper in rings
Soften the gelatin in the water. Bring 1 can consommé to a boil and add it to the gelatin. Stir in the other can, Worcestershire sauce and salt and peppers. Arrange the beef in a serving dish, sprinkle with herbs and decorate with vegetable slices, those suggested above or others of choice. Pour over liquid and chill at least 2 hrs. or until set.
NOTE: See directions above.

Poultry in Aspic:

Serves 6
(2) 5 lb. cooked ducks, chickens or equal amount chicken thighs or turkey breast
2 envelopes unflavored gelatin
½ cup Cointreau or orange liqueur
2 cans condensed chicken broth
1 can condensed consommé
Pinch ground cloves
Salt and pepper
Orange slices- very thin
Soften the gelatin in the Cointreau, bring 1 can broth, cloves, salt and pepper, to a boil and dissolve the gelatin in it. Add the rest of the liquid and let cool. Arrange the meat, on or off the bone, attractively in a casserole, top with the orange slices and pour the liquid over. Chill several hours until set.

Corned Beef in Aspic:

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11/2 lb. Deli sliced or caned corned beef ( or tongue)
1 cup white wine
2 envelopes unflavored gelatin
2 cans condensed consommé
Stuffed olives
Arrange slices of meat overlapping along either side of a shallow serving dish and place the olives in the center. Soften the gelatin in ½ cup cold water then dissolve it in 1 can boiling broth. Add the rest of the broth and wine and cool. Pour over meat and olives, Chill at least 2 hr. until firm. Garnish as desired

Cold Cornish Hens:

Serves 6
6 Cornish hens or large chicken thighs
6 slices of bacon halved crosswise
1 small onion sliced thin
¾ cup white wine
¼ cup water
Paprika
Salt and pepper
Bell pepper strips-fresh or fire roasted
Place hens in a roasting pan, sprinkle with seasonings and onion and cover with (2) ½ slices of bacon each. Pour over wine and water and roast in a preheated 350 deg. oven 45-60 min. basting with pan juices every 15 min. Cool and chill at least until pan juices gel and serve garnished with bell pepper.

Bouillabaisse Salad:

Serves 6
1 cup cooked crab meat
1 cup cooked lobster meat
1 cup cooked whitefish
½ cup cooked, peeled shrimp
2 tomatoes sliced
8 ripe olives halved either side of a shallow serving dish.
Mixed greens
Dressing*
Attractively arrange the seafood on a platter lined with greens. Scatter the olives over and drizzle with dressing. Pass the rest on the side.
*A classic vinaigrette consisting of 1 part wine vinegar to 3 parts olive oil, shaken with salt, pepper and herbs of choice is recommended-tarragon would do well here. Experiment with other vinegars, or simply wine or lemon juice. Think of ass-ins like garlic, onion, mustard or horseradish.

Classic Italian Cold Meat in Tuna Sauce:

Serves 4-6
2 lb. Skinless, boneless chicken breasts, loin of turkey or pork
2 cans Vegetable broth-optional
5 oz. can tuna in oil
2 anchovies
4-5 oz. olive oil
juice of 1-2 lemons
3 Tbs. capers –drained
If using chicken, roll the breasts and tie them. Simmer the meat in the vegetable broth for about 1hr. or until done. Cool and slice on a serving platter. Puree the tuna and anchovies adding the oil gradually to make a smooth paste, then add lemon juice until fairly thin. Finally stir in the capers. Pour the sauce over them and allow to sit in a cool place several hours or overnight. Serve cold.