Full of — ‘Legumes’
While I was on a roll with my Facts of Basics posts, a relative phoned me from her office. She and some co-workers were discussing food prices and specifically how to effectively use beans in cutting costs. Most of these people face a 3 hour daily commute and all have young families. They were attracted by the nutritional values but concerned about the time required to prep dried beans. Several had learned that buying canned ones in quantity to serve as the main ingredient in a meal of multiple servings is no real saving. What they really wanted was some “Cliff Notes” on the subject. So here goes—–
First, “Beans” is a catch-all phrase Americans use to refer to a food group named “Legumes”. Technically, this food group includes any herbs, shrubs and trees that can be gathered. In culinary terms, it refers to plants whose fruit consists of pods which can be split to yield edible seeds, which can be preserved by drying. The group includes beans, lentils, peas, garbanzos, peanuts, even alfalfa and are probably man’s oldest source of nourishment. Cultivation of Garbanzos or Ceci or Chickpeas can be traced back to 7500 B.C. in the Eastern Mediterranean, Lentils to 7000 B.C. in the Near East and Peas to 5700 B.C. in Turkey. Black-eyed peas and Peanuts are African in origin and came to the Americas in the 16th century. Soybeans were developed in China about 1100 B.C. and are the most widely used legume in the world. The only “Bean” indigenous to Europe is the Fava. All other beans are native to North America.
Columbus first brought dried peas, and probably lentils to the New World in his provisions, and returned to Spain with dried beans. However, the real introduction of” beans” to Europe was due to the settlers of the Massachusetts Bay Colony who credited this “gift” from the Indians with their survival through the first years. They quickly became a popular food and it’s generally thought that the word “pease,” so often mentioned in English and Colonial American literature and recipes during the next few centuries, refers to beans, rather than what we today call peas.
Legumes have always been valued as a food source. High in protein and fiber they are nourishing while their complex carbohydrate content allows them to satisfy hunger. Because of their structure plus their mild taste, legumes are traditionally used to give a dish body while supplying a base upon which to layer other, more flavorful ingredients. The general exception seems to be soup, but here too, other flavors are usually added. Often, in a pinch, legumes are interchangeable, but it’s wiser to stick to the type specified in an ethnic recipe; peas wouldn’t do justice to Chili, garbanzos to Indian Red Lentil Curry or lentils to Boston Baked Beans.
A source of confusion is that many varieties have different names. As stated above, garbanzos are also called chickpeas and ceci. White kidney beans are called cannellini or Great Northern. The smaller variety are called navy, haricot, Boston or Yankee beans and when pink they’re pintos. So although nowadays, we’re lucky to have access to so many cuisines, it’s good to understand the main ingredients of various recipes in order to plan menus from a practical standpoint. It’s awful to decide to try a new dish and then not find a key item in the store. Often the recipe, or a product label will list alternate names, but to be safe, if it’s something unfamiliar, google it before buying.
Another key factor in cooking legumes is time. Yes they do require lengthy preparation, but it’s mostly unattended and can be segmented to fit your schedule. When dealing with the dried forms, they separate into two classes; those that need pre-soaking and those that don’t.
1) Peas and Lentils don’t require soaking.
A) By peas I refer to the yellow or green varieties, also called field peas and sometimes split.
B) Lentils come in 3 varieties: Green or French which hold their shape during cooking and are
good for side dishes: Red are semi firm and used in Indian cuisine: German or brown fall
apart when boiled and therefore are excellent in soups.
C) Peas and lentils only require 45mins to an hour cooking time; much less than beans.
NOTE: Black-eyed peas are really a bean containing a lot of starch, which is often used to thicken dishes, but is lost in pre-soaking. The option depends on the recipe.
2) Dried Beans do require pre-soaking and there are two methods:
A) Cover the beans with 3 inches of water. Allow to soak 8 hrs. or overnight
B) Cover the beans with water, bring to a boil for 2 mins. Remove from heat and stand for 1 hour.
C) NOTE: Occasionally beans will be sold in packets, not cans, labeled pre-soaked.
The time required to soak the beans easily fits into a schedule either over night or during the work day. Remember the instructions say “at least” so even 24hours soaking is O.K. As I said the neat thing about legumes is that their cooking can be segmented. Their dishes age well and improve as the flavors meld. Beans can be soaked on one day, boiled the following one and the meal put together on the third and prepared to be eaten on the fourth. Recipes for bean dishes are usually precise, so simply follow the directions closely.
When I lived in Italy, a British family had a neighboring apartment and the wife kept a pot of cooked beans, no special type, in the fridge so whatever their plans, she always had a dinner ready. I had heard of the English fondness for “beans on toast” but never understood its versatility. Helen would ladle out what she needed, sometime thickening the liquid, sometimes just mashing the beans, adding the seasonings of whatever cuisine appealed to her that day any vegetables , leftovers, meats fresh or even deli to simmer or often bacon using the fat to fry the bread, and frequently an egg for topping. She was always prepared and it was always delicious. So simple, so easy and so economical! She prepared the beans weekly, but they can also be frozen, in their liquid, and need only be re-heated to be ready to use.
Garbanzos or Ceci or Chickpeas are a slightly different story. They’re more versatile than most other legumes and so, in a class by themselves. Boiled and mashed they become the basis of Hummus. Boiled and drained, they can be roasted, salted and served like nuts, but the fact that they can be ground into a flour which is gluten free, is becoming known and increasingly used in the Western Hemisphere. They are quite sturdy which makes them more suitable for chunkier dishes like stews and salads than for soups.
Until recently, for most people “Beans was Beans”. Legumes, generally, were better known by the dishes they were in, than identified by type; Pasta e Fagioli, Boston Baked, Senate Bean Soup, Chili with Beans, even “refried”. Now, we have come to understand that there are subtle differences in taste, but more importantly, in texture which defines the best uses for each variety. As I said, legume recipes are usually detailed and, if you are new to working with these foods, it’s best to closely follow them. Once you are familiar with several kinds of legumes, you can begin to experiment by adding them to dishes to “stretch” them, by creating recipes or by substituting types.
For example, red lentils and French green ones aren’t often found in the supermarket, but rather in ethnic stores or gourmet markets, and for a higher price than the more common brown or German lentils. However, if you know when to stop boiling the brown lentils so they are just crisp tender, they can be used in place of the more expensive types.
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I confess I’ve come a long way in learning to appreciate legumes. They’re economical, add character to many dishes, adapt to the flavors of most cuisines, are easy to work with and keep well, both in dried form and cooked. In a word they’re versatile—Oh yes, and forgiving. In fact, I’ve discussed them, and included recipes in several of my previous blogs. I’ve listed those below. However, my recipes tend to include meat or lend themselves to the addition of meat. Whenever I’ve been asked to provide strictly vegetarian entrees, I’ve consulted experts in that field either through cookbooks or websites. My favorite is; The Moosewood Cookbook (www.moosewoodresturant.com) written by the collective who own and operate the restaurant of that name in Ithica N.Y.
Just one word of warning, don’t plunge head- long into a diet heavy in legumes, especially if your family includes young children. Our modern digestive systems aren’t used to so much fiber and it can cause gas. It’s better to introduce them gradually in side dishes and salads, rather than full entrees.
Ironically, the area where I live is bracing for a severe storm, possibly causing long power failures. So while I’ve been writing this, I’ve been preparing a large pot of bean soup. It’s my go-to for emergencies because it’s nourishing, filling, can be served at any temperature, is easily portable, and holds up well without refrigeration. I’m making one of my favorite recipes, given to me by a friend in Oklahoma.
BLACK BEAN SOUP:
2 large onions diced
(1) 14 oz can diced tomatoes
2 envelopes beef bouillon granules
1 Tbs. garlic powder
1 Tbs. oil
1 lb. bag of dried black beans
8 cups water
Vinegar to taste
Sprinkle red pepper flakes
Salt, cumin and coriander to taste
Sour cream or plain yogurt –optional toppings
Soak the beans in the water 8 hrs, or overnight OR boil for 2 mins. cover, and let stand for 1 hour. I cut some corners here. Rather than do them separately, I sautéed the onions in the oil, added the garlic and the tomatoes with juice before boiling the beans in water for 2 mins. When I resumed cooking, I added the other seasonings to taste after about 30 mins; continued cooking until the beans were soft, about an hour. Now I’m ready to puree the soup to desired texture, correct seasoning, cool and store it in plastic containers. I’ll serve it topped with a dollop of yogurt.
I’ve discussed beans several times and included recipes, which are available on this site. The most prominent posts are:
Blog # 23- Soup’s On
a) Pea and Mint Soup
b) White bean Soup
Blog # 25- Side By Side
a)Two Bean Salad
Blog # 33 – Salad Days
a) Texas Taco Salad
b) Tuscan Tuna and Bean Salad
