HOW TO EASILY DIY ‘CORN’ MEATS
A few years ago, I wrote Some Saint Patrick’s Day Recipes-From Canapes to Coffee. Even then the holiday was reduced from its former free-wheeling status but people still celebrated with parades and, of course, green beer at the local pub, both of which are out of the question now due to social restrictions. However, what makes the day unique is that, aside from Thanksgiving turkey, it’s the only holiday when Americans traditionally share the same menu-corned beef and cabbage. I wrote posts on Saint Patrick’s Day on March 16, 2012, March 14, 2013, March 13, 2014, March 11, 2015, March 9, 2016, March 8. 2018, Feb. 28, 2019 , March 5, 2020.Most are similar but they do have different slants on menus and leftovers
Cuts of beef, both brisket, now sold as ground, and the leaner rounds, sold as roasts, used to be readily available corned in markets. The dish was featured in restaurants and home kitchens filled with its aroma. Now it’s a rarity, probably for several reasons. Our national palate is less intrigued by simpler recipes, and we are too busy for time-consuming cooking tasks, but above all, the price of beef makes us reluctant to prepare it in any way that alters beef’s natural taste.
Younger people know corned beef as the base of a Ruben; older ones will recall it as the main ingredient in hash, once considered a budget meal and a popular sandwich cold cut. It has a distinct taste, not as spicy and much leaner than pastrami and less salty than ham. There is definitely room for it in the culinary larder but as stated, beef is expensive to be used this way.
I have found what, for me, is an acceptable, affordable solution. Years ago, I read an article by Julia Child describing her relief she had corned a beef round that week when confrontation by unexpected luncheon guests. It shocked me because I had always thought ‘corning’, if not messy or complicated, to be a lengthy process. Instead it’s easy and simple, taking, optionally 3-5 days and just refrigeration.
First I corned a small bottom round, cutting the corning ingredients by half, and it was perfect! Then realizing beef prices were going up, I began looking for alternatives, especially smaller options for empty nesters like me. I had a ham, so I cut a lobe off, corned it and was floored when I was complimented on the flavor of the corned beef and cabbage. It was a born stand-in.
Well, whole hams aren’t too budget friendly either, and meat has continued its costly rise, so this year I went a step further. I bought a whole Boston butt on sale and butchered it myself. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D10lJYqjLB4) I got enough for 4 servings of pork and kraut, 3 of country ribs, enough roast to corn for 2-3 portions with cabbage and enough for a pork roast yielding 5-6 portions.
There was no difference in the color, texture or taste of these meats and commercial corned beef but they were a big economy and one I intend to repeat often and expand upon by making my own deli meat. I’ll be featuring corned meat as a cold cut and in sandwiches in the future. Although I’ll use pork loin, if I’m planning a cold cut platter. If you want to try corning other meats and cuts, my book The Meat Stop will provide all the information needed along with diagrams. Find it on the site bookshelf, kindle or our Etsy store.
On the flip side, an improvement to Saint Patrick’s Day in the U.S. is the availability of Kerry Gold butter in most markets in March, some carry it all year. The butter is made from the fresh cream of cows grazed on grassy green Irish meadows, which results in its bright golden hue. The higher fat content gives baked goods a buttery taste and adds a flaky texture. As a spread there’s no comparison. If you haven’t tried Kerry Gold, please do. You’ll be so glad you did.
‘CORNING’ DIRECTIONS: Note-the amounts of corning seasonings and cooking times should be adjusted to the poundage of the meat according to the original formula for beef, no matter which type you choose.
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For 5-6 lbs. of beef –any cut—Allow to marinate 36 hrs. to 8 days- Adjust ingredient amounts according to the poundage of the cut being corned.
6-8 cups water or enough to cover by 1 inch
1 cup salt
3 Tbs. brown sugar
1 bay leaf
6 peppercorns
1 clove garlic-minced
¼ tsp. choice of any or all—whole allspice, paprika, ginger, mustard powder, nutmeg or mace.-I use allTrim the meat of fat, wipe with a damp cloth and pierce all over with a fork. Place in a glazed ceramic, glass or enameled pan that fits comfortably and is deep enough to allow for full immersion in the brine. Put all the above spices and seasonings in 4 cups warm water and stir to dissolve the sugar and salt. Pour over the beef. Add enough water to cover the meat by 1 inch. Place a weighted plate on top and leave to marinate in a cool or cold place for at least 3 days, better 5-8.
The first time I did this I used a glazed terra cotta planter, then I found an enameled roasting pan in a flea market. For weights I use a Dollar Store plate and a brick, then seal the pan with plastic wrap. I only make this in winter, so if I don’t have room in the refrigerator, I put it on a shelf in the garage—just as long as it doesn’t freeze.
Corning Ham:
Last year, on a hunch, I cut a lobe from a ham shank and used the corning ingredients, minus the salt and water, as a dry rub. I put it in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for a week and boiled it as I would a corned beef, timing adjusted to the poundage of the meat. The taste was close enough to corned beef to fool everyone who ate it, even sliced cold, and the price difference was well, the difference between beef and ham.
1 to 2 lb. lobe cut from a ham
Omit the water and salt from the above list of ingredients
measure half quantities of the remaining spices and seasonings all in ground form.
Mix those items and use them as a dry rub for the ham. Seal the ham in a plastic bag and refrigerate it for 4-7 days. Remove from plastic, leaving rub on, cover with broth and cook as for corned beef.
Corning Pork
Use a boneless roast either cut from the butt or the loin
Follow the directions for beef, adjusting the amount of corning ingredients and cooking times to the weight of the meat. This was the most wallet friendly choice and one I intend to make to supply cold cuts-another big saving.
RECIPES
Corned Beef Salad: Serves 4
¾ lb. sliced corned beef- in ½ inch dice
4 medium boiled potatoes- in ½ inch dice
4 medium cooked or canned red beets- in ½ inch dice
1 Kosher dill pickle- in ½ inch dice
4 Tbs. salad oil
2 Tbs. wine vinegar
½ tsp. mashed garlic or ¼ tsp. garlic powder
2 tsp. spicy brown or Dijon mustard
1 Tbs. chopped fresh chives
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Lettuce leaves
2 hardboiled eggs cut in quarters or sliced
Combine first 9 ingredients in a salad bowl. Add a bit of salt to taste and about 6 generous grinds of pepper. Toss gently and marinate in the refrigerator 4 to 5 hours. Toss again and arrange on lettuce lined plates; garnish with eggs and more chives or another grind of pepper.
Reuben Sandwiches: These are served open faced, which my family favors, or closed.
1 loaf good Deli Jewish Rye Bread
@ ½ lb. sliced corned beef or shredded leftover
8 oz. bottle of Russian dressing
1 lb. Sauerkraut
@ ½ lb. Deli sliced Swiss cheese
Allow 2 slices bread per portion. For open-faced lightly toast the bread, for closed toast only one side.
Spread a toasted side with the Russian dressing, cover with the meat then the kraut and top with the cheese. The amounts you use are optional. If planning a closed sandwich, fill only half the slices and top with the others; for open cover all. The open sandwiches can be run under the broiler until the cheese melts, the closed topped with the empty slices, toasted sides in, and broiled or grilled turning once, until both sides are golden. Serve hot.
A Light Lite Dessert:
Lime sherbet
green Crème de Menthe liqueur
Put a scoop of sherbet in each dessert dish. Poke a hole in the center with the handle of a wooden spoon and pour the liqueur in just to fill and slightly overflow. Serve at once.