In the Swim – Seafood
Ironically, when the first settlers arrived in North America the lakes, rivers, streams and coastal waters over flowed with sea life. Until the mid 20th century it was harvested with little thought to maintaining the populations, the balances between them or their environments. Moreover, although some delicious dishes were developed throughout the years, the major portion of this bounty was unappreciated and simply prepared in basic ways, boiled, fried, in stews and chowders, without consideration for the individual flavors or textures. Several things changed in the years after WWII. Affordable air travel allowed us to try other cuisines; there was an influx of immigrants from countries with strong seafood based culinary traditions; we became environmentally conscious and aware that pollution was taking its toll on all life forms; we learned that a healthy diet prevents illness and gives us longer lives and that seafood is an important part of a healthy diet. Finally, we expanded our palates and our cooking skills to include new, often exotic ingredients, techniques and tastes.
Unfortunately, as our appreciation of seafood and knowledge of the many delicious ways to prepare it grew, the reality dawned that our once amazing abundance had dwindled alarmingly. Many species were near extinction. Crabs and other fish, once so plentiful on the East Coast that they were used as fertilizer, became pricey and Albacore, once harvested by the ton and sold for pennies a pound, is now so scarce its sale is limited to California. Maine lobster comes from Canada, most “Gulf Shrimp” are from Asia and” Bay” scallops have been replaced by Calico ones. Older people from the East Coast fondly recall plentiful hauls of shad, shad roe and rockfish. Fortunately, our concern for the environment has grown. We are determined to halt the devastation and are trying to protect the resources that remain, even improve the situation for the future. Strict anti-pollution laws are helping to make the environment safe, and enforcement of fishing restrictions protect breeding grounds, the lives of the young and the killing of endangered species.
Air freight has not only allowed us to enjoy fresh seafood from all over our own country but also to supplement our native supplies with global products. Aquaculture has helped to reinforce the supply of fresh fish internationally. Fish farming has become big business and though there is some debate over the nutritional merits of farmed vrs. wild caught, there is no doubt that cultivation has relieved strain on the natural resources, especially of smaller fresh-water varieties of fish.
It’s much harder to safeguard the supply of the large, deep water ocean dwellers. Once regarded as game to be caught and mounted, only as a food source by a few ethnic groups, these species have become popular menu items over the past decades and are now endangered too. This fact struck home recently in a seashore restaurant. I was with three pre-teens who were fascinated by a huge mounted swordfish on the wall. Once a common sight in such places, they had never seen a mounted fish. When told what it was, they responded that they loved swordfish but had never seen a whole one. What they meant was they had only encountered swordfish as an entrée, never one caught for sport and kept as a trophy before. I guess the economy has affected expensive vacation fishing trips too, or at least the catch. Apparently most of it’s turned over dockside to be cleaned, butchered and frozen nowadays.
This brings up the subject of handling salt water fish. It’s important to clean and refrigerate all fish as soon as possible after they’re caught, but special care should be taken with the ocean varieties. Fresh water fish have more salt in their bodies. Since water constantly flows through their bodies through the gills and skin they don’t need to drink any, and their kidneys help maintain the correct balance by releasing large amounts of diluted urine.
Salt water fish have less salt in their tissues than exists in the surrounding water. The salt in their environment draws the water from their bodies and forces them to drink large amounts to maintain a healthy balance. They secrete the salt through their gills and the kidneys produce only small amounts of concentrated urine which contains Urea. Animals have this too. It binds nitrogenous waste to prevent it turning into poisonous ammonia within the body. It is expelled through urine. Because salt water fish kidneys contain concentrated amounts of urine, they must be removed soon after catch or the urea will leech into the flesh. Sharks are an exception. To maintain a healthy balance with their environment, they store urea in their blood. Sharks caught for food supply should be bled as well as soon as gaffed or the ammonia will taste and spoil their meat. If you are buying or have ordered salt water fish and smell or taste a tinge of ammonia, reject it.
This brings us to the topic of preparing fish. Most fish, fresh and salt water varieties, can be cooked in interchangeable ways; the usual ones being pan or oven broiled or fried, poached, baked, grilled or, in the case of whole fish roasted. Fish responds well to direct heat. The origin of the fish is not as important as the size, which determines the cut or cuts. Small fish are usually split lengthwise into fillets, rendering two thin pieces with meat exposed and therefore quick to cook but delicate to handle, especially if skinned as well. A long fish spatula is useful for most methods, but if grilling a special grill basket with small mesh covering is helpful. Many fish fillets have flakey meat that can fall through larger openings. When grilling fish make sure all utensils are well oiled. For other methods, the pan should be non-stick or well coated with butter, grease or oil. If the fillet is large with the skin still on, make several small slits in it. The skin shrinks as the fish cooks and can curl the fillet. The same is also true of the dark strip that runs down the outside of many large fillets that are skinned, such as monkfish. It too contracts and can curl the piece. I remember being served one that resembled a tennis ball.
Larger fish can be cut crosswise through the mid-section into steaks, with only the tail section filleted. Very large fish, the deep water dwellers, are sometimes filleted through the thickest part and the fillets cut into separate pieces, then cut into steaks in the middle and filleted in the tail. As with other meats, the cut of the grain determines the texture of the meat. The steaks have a denser grain, similar to that of land dwelling animals, and are easier to handle. They can be cooked flat on an oiled grill, and turned with tongs, or baked in an oven. The steaks also have less of an issue with bones, since only a section of the spine, one or two ribs attached, runs through the center, and is easily removed. In fillets the backbone is sliced away, but small rib bones often remain, especially in the tail. It’s advisable to carefully check all fillets, salt water and fresh, and have a tweezer handy before cooking them.
There’s a debate as to taste. Some people claim to prefer salt water fish others stand by fresh. Although, the taste of fish, like fowl can be affected by the environment in which they feed, the difference between salt water species and fresh ones is generally hard to detect. It’s more a matter of the flavor of a specific type of fish. Texture is an important factor too, flaky vrs. firm, or steaks vrs. fillets. Generally though, I think what people really like is a recipe, or cooking method and/or the fish they associate with it. I grew up at the seashore, so I’m more familiar with salt water fish, and love wine poached Bluefish but I also like pan broiled Brook Trout. Would I switch the fish in the recipes? No! These are two simple preparations that showcase the flavor of those specific fish. Would I exchange Tilapia for Artic Pollok in a fried recipe? Yes! Here the focus is on the crust and the accompanying sauces. Most Chinese dishes are listed on a restaurant menu as simply “with fish” or “fish with” not mentioning the specific type. It’s usually a fresh water fish, but could be a salt water variety. Here, the emphasis is on the recipe not the species of fish. In contrast, some fish are so tied to a recipe that alternates aren’t even considered; Tuna with Salad Nicoise and Salmon with a honey bourbon marinade are example.
Because freshness is of prime importance in dealing with fish, it’s smart to familiarize yourself with the flavors and culinary applications of several different types. If you like to grill, learn which ones grill best. If you’re an apartment dweller, practice a few recipes with cuts that are better cooked on the stove or in the oven. The point is, if you’re planning a fish dinner, always be prepared when you approach the seafood counter, for the possibility of having to switch gears. Tell the monger what you want and briefly the cooking method, and ask for his recommendation. He may suggest a different steak for the grill, and you must know if the seasonings you planned will still do, or the sauce you intended for one type of fillet will overpower a different kind. The monger’s recommendation should be the freshest choice, but don’t be afraid to ask to see it or to smell it or to ask where it was caught. Distance is often a factor in freshness and freshness is the key to a good fish dish.
Frozen fish is a boon to the busy cook. Quite often it’s frozen on site at sea, or in a nearby port, so you’re sure it’s fresh. More and more varieties are appearing in the markets in 1-2 & 3 lb. bags. Slightly less expensive than the fresh, they’re great to have handy as a quick dinner option on a rushed night. Individual portions are also available in the frozen food cases. At $1.00 for 4 oz. they’re more economical than fresh, and a big saving if you’re short on freezer space or live alone and buy lesser amounts. I’ve also found the individual pieces are good for sandwiches and the perfect amount to make dips and spreads. I even used one fillet to make Gravalax for pasta with vodka sauce. It saved me buying a package of the same size of smoked salmon for $9.99 in the market. I’ve given recipes for making this plus one for a dip below.
There are so many types of fish and so many, many books of recipes for preparing them, and people’s tastes are so regional and individual, that I could spend hours spewing out recipes and never come close to what you all like. I think it’s better to encourage you to keep an open mind in finding the types of fish you prefer and to teach you how to safely purchase the pieces you buy. To do this, I advise you read my posting of Feb 21, 2013 on The Informed Shopper—How to Buy Fish. Just click on the month and it will come up. If you combine that information on how to gage the freshness and quality of fish in the counter, with this on choosing the species, you’ll approach the Fish Department in the market like a pro. To make the task even easier, I’m including lists of the main species of salt and fresh water fish.
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You might want to also check my postings of Feb. 28, 2013 and March 7, 2013 on shellfish and mollusks. I’m not going to enlarge on those subjects because they were well covered in the two articles.
GRAVALAX—This is for 1 ¼ lb. Make adjustments for larger or smaller amounts.
1 ¼ lb salmon fillet – with skin
2 Tbs. sugar
¾ cup chopped fresh dill
2 Tbs. Kosher salt
1tsp. fresh ground pepper
Mix all the dry ingredients. Pat the fish dry and rub all over with the seasonings. Wrap in plastic place on a flat surface, cover with a plate or pan and weigh down with cans or a brick. Refrigerate for 2 to 3 days, draining liquid daily, replacing wrapping each time. Before serving, scrape off seasonings. Cut in very thin slices on a 30 deg. angle with a sharp knife, lifting them off the skin as you go. Serve in any recipe that calls for smoked salmon—generally serves 4
SALMON SPREAD or DIP
4 oz salmon-if raw poach lightly- smoked can be used as well – finely chopped or shredded
4 oz cream cheese
½ cup sour cream and/or finely chopped, seeded and peeled raw cucumber-well drained
1 Tbs. dried dill weed OR 2 Tbs. fresh chopped dill—or to taste
Combine all ingredients. Test for taste and chill for at least 1 hr. Garnish the top with chopped dill. Serve with crackers or vegetables. If using both cucumber and sour cream add them gradually and alternately Stop if it becomes too runny. Remember a dip is more liquid than a spread. Makes about 1 cup.
SALT WATER FISH:
Barracuda, Black Drum, Blowfish, Bluefish, Butterfish, Cod, Croaker, Fluke, Groupers, Haddock, Hake, Halibut, Herring, Kingfish, Mackerel, Mullet, Perch, Pollock, Pompano, Porgy, Redfish, Red Snapper, Sablefish, Salmon, Sand Dabs, Sardines, Sea Bass ,Sea Trout Shad, Sheepshead, Skate, Smelt, Sole and the Flounder family, Spot, Squid, Striped Bass, Sturgeon, Sunfish, Swordfish, Tuna, Whitebait, Whitefish, Whiting, Yellowtail.
FRESH WATER FISH:
Bass, bluegill Sunfish, Bowfin, Buffalo fish, Carp, Catfish, Chub, Lake Herring, Pike, Pickerel, Perch, Sheepshead, Suckers, Trout, Whitefish, Yellow Perch.
