Let’s Get Seasonal

Probably the greatest amount of food knowledge we absorb growing up is when regionally or locally grown products become available, and when to anticipate produce from other places.  I really believe that recognition of these seasonal changes is part of our survival instincts. We seem born with the understanding that there is a time of re-growth, a time to enjoy the bounty and a time to store provisions for a difficult season to come. Now, thanks to modern technology, preservation and transportation methods, the time lines have blurred. Foods from all over the world are readily available. Moreover, many produce items have been introduced in climates similar to their indigenous ones, making them obtainable throughout the year.

Wonderful as this arrangement is, it seems to have two basic flaws. Often due to soil and climate variations, the produce from the transplanted crops is altered in appearance and taste from the native grown. Wine grapes are famous for this. Also, there is a cost, especially with the current gas prices, in bringing these items to your neighborhood market. Stopping a minute to think and weigh options can often save money and offer attractive alternatives. For example, strawberries have been featured for several weeks, but I know, in a few more, local ones will be coming into season, far tastier at 1/3 the price. Eggs, though, are at their annual low. So in spite of the supermarket hype, I’m passing on the shortcake for now in favor of a custard pie, or, even easier, a Spring-like clafouti made with canned peaches. (A recipe follows.) While I’m at it, I going to plan a couple of egg based dinners too.

The point is, while you’re learning about the items and the pricing IN the stores, it’s wise to learn about those that come from AROUND you as well. Everything has a season not just produce; meat, seafood, wine, even maple syrup. It’s important to learn the seasons of the things you like, to be able to anticipate not only when to plan for them, but also when the prices will be most competitive. The term “AROUND” you has really expanded. Years ago it meant regionally, or just nationally, but we now need to stretch our information base to include the world, not forgetting that much of our food comes from a different hemisphere, where the seasons are opposite. It’s a lot to learn, especially if you’re new to grocery shopping, but it becomes second nature and a valuable tool for the smart buyer.

If you want to see the global reach of our food sources, look in the frozen section. Even the big brands, not just the cut-rate ones as it was a few years ago, are labeled product  of Guatemala or China. I’m still grappling with the fact that the production costs in those countries is low enough to offset the cost of energy used to transport the product to market, and still sell it 1/3 to ¼ below the homegrown. Speaking of homegrown, I found a curious situation a few years ago, I moved from one state just over the line into a neighboring one, about 60 miles. My old state is renowned for its summer produce and the supermarkets there feature it, but none of the markets, including 4 branches of national chains I had used for years, carried any of it here. In fact, the 4 most famous items came from 4 different places, the nearest over 800 miles distant, and produce prices generally, didn’t reflect the seasons, When I inquired, I was told all the markets in this area are supplied from a warehouse 300 miles away, in another state. It seems senseless, especially when the cost of the trucking is reflected in the price. Since I’m all about sense, when zucchini, a most abundant vegetable, didn’t go below $1.47lb by August, I determined to find a farm market. There are some guidelines to that search which can save time and money, especially if you have options:

• The big, communal, brick and mortar markets carry much of the overhead of

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a supermarket and that figures in the pricing.

• Very large farms and/or orchards which have permanent market structures on their property can be concerned with bulk sales and charge more for small quantities. They also can consider their name worth something.
• Roadside stands are the best bets for price, but if they have shelves of jams and relishes etc. be sure you’re not carried away by the atmosphere and pay a gourmet price for a commercial item, unless it’s worth it.

Whichever you choose, one fact is certain, you will find your local produce, in season, fresher and overall, more reasonably priced in farm markets. Depending on the crops, for most of the U.S. that’s about 6 months.

If you have read THE PLAN, you know I have definite steps to train yourself to be a smart shopper, and you might question how to fit farm markets in. It’s simply a smaller variation of the main routine. Limit yourself to two trips per month, make a list following a menu, and put in your wallet only what you intend to spend. Above all, stay objective and focused on the list, and, of course, know what is in season.

Finally, don’t forget that “seasonal” can also mean food associated with holidays. Ham, chicken, eggs, lamb and veal are associated with Easter, and Passover, as well as Spring. Grilling meats, especially hamburger, are usually on sale over the various summer holidays when barbeques are popular. Pork and turkeys are butchered in the Fall. In fact, Thanksgiving is “Turkey Day”. All these items will be featured as sales in their scheduled times during the year. Foods connected with feasts will be featured as well. Baking supplies are a good example, as are condiments and beverages. Keep this in mind when making menus, as you near holidays. Postponing a purchase may pay off In fact, when stocking up. Frequently many of the foods with a longer shelf life, like cake mixes, are even more reasonable after the holiday. So get seasonal!

BASIC CLAFOUTI Serves 6-8
3 eggs
2/3 cup sifted flour
1/3 cup sugar + 1/3 cup
1 ¼ cup milk
1 Tbs. vanilla
1/8 tsp. salt
Butter
Powdered sugar
1 large -@1lb. can fruit-drained—peach or plum halves, cherries canned or fresh
or fresh  apples, pears lightly cooked = 3 cups

Lightly butter a 7-8 cup oven-proof dish with 2 inch sides. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Blend first 6 ingredients at top speed for 1 min. Pour ¼ inch batter into casserole and place in the oven for 1 min. or until a slight film forms on the bottom of the dish to form a light crust. Place fruit in dish, sprinkle with the other 1/3 cup sugar, pour the rest of the batter over and smooth top with the back of a spoon. Bake in middle of oven for about 1 hr. or until puffed and golden. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve warm while still puffed.