MELONS-MID-SUMMER GEMS
I’m from New Jersey, a state known for its produce and I grew up anticipating the seasons for their special crops. Mid-summer was melon time and even after I moved away, I watched my market fliers expectantly for them to arrive. A couple of years ago I realized that along with several other produce bonanzas, melon season was eclipsed by the year round availability of internationally grown produce.
The local farm market cured my craving but I still miss the banner sales and even more the variety of melons the Casabas, Persians and, my Mother’s favorite the spicy-sweet Crenshaws? I don’t see them even in the produce boutiques. However, I’ve found some compensation in the fact that cantaloupes, honeydews and watermelons are in market all year at reasonable prices and have branched out to find roles in every phase of meal-time.
It used to be a fun fact that melons were the perfect symbol of high summer, when we don’t feel like cooking, because they were the only fruit that was never cooked. The rind could be pickled but the meat, supposedly, couldn’t stand heat. That has changed with the introduction of watermelon steaks, grilled or pan fried and deep fried melon bite canapés. I include a recipe for steaks, which have several presentations, but I have yet to encounter a successful fried canapé.
Generally, Melons’ taste is mild, their flavor subtle, and the flesh, high in water content, is substantial in volume. Consequently, though delicious alone, melons combine well with other ingredients and the meat makes excellent bedding in salads and compotes.
To pick a melon, the best test is to thump it and listen for a hollow sound. Ripe cantaloupes have a faint, sweet fragrance as well. If the stem stump is indented, the melon was vine ripened and easily detached, rather than being harvested on a schedule and cut away. Finally, shake the melon and if you hear the seeds, it’s apt to be dry. Unlike other fruits, melons don’t ripen once picked, so eat them soon.
Now, a few tips on working with melons. Wash the outside well, before cutting into one. A knife slicing through the rind can carry contaminants into the flesh. Melons are loaded with nutrients but they quickly disintegrate when exposed to light and air, so avoid buying cut segments. Once opened, cover the exposed flesh with plastic wrap and store chilled. I put mine in a black plastic bag in the fridge. Finally, try some of these recipes and enjoy! For more recipes seeAug.30,2018 and Aug. 8,2019
RECIPES:
Melon con Prosciutto
This classic Italian presentation traditionally Involves simply draping thin slices of dry-cured ham over slices of melon.
Alternatively: It can be transformed into a canapé by cubing the melon and wrapping it in ham secured by a toothpick.
NOTE: Baked ham or smoked turkey create a reasonable facsimile.
Watermelon Fries-from Abby’s Kitchen .com
1/2 small watermelon, cut into fries
Zest of one lime
½ to 1 tsp. chili powder, depending on spice preference
Pinch of kosher salt
DIPPING SAUCE
1/4 c. Greek yogurt
1 tbsp. lime juice
2 tsp. honey
Pinch of chili powder
Marinate melon strips, chilled, in seasonings for 24 hr. Serve cold, plated around sauce.
Watermelon Pickle:*
1 Watermelon- Green rind peeled and meat removed. White rind cut in 1 inch cubes.
1 cup cider vinegar per pound
1 cup water per pound
1 ½ cup sugar per pound
3 inches stick cinnamon per pound
4 cloves per pound
1 Tbs. sliced ginger root per pound
Cover melon cubes with salted water and soak for 2 hrs. Drain and rinse well. Boil in fresh water until half tender, about 10 min. Drain again and rinse in cool water. Weigh melon and measure the other ingredients into a pot accordingly and boil them for about ½ hr. until a syrup forms. Add drained melon rind and boil for another 10 min. or until rind is crisp-tender. Allow to cool and pack cubes with syrup, including spices, to cover, into glass jars with secure fitting lids. Store refrigerated.
*NOTE: For more watermelon recipes go to Aug.30, 2018
Honeydew-Pineapple Soup: Serves 4
4 cups seeded, cubed honeydew
2 cups cubed, fresh pineapple
2 Tbs. honey
1 Tbs. lime juice
½ cup sour cream
½ cup yogurt
Pinch all spice
Blend everything to a puree and chill. Serve garnished with chopped fresh mint.
Moosewood Melon Soup: Serves 4*- from the Moosewood Restaurant New Classics Cookbook
6 cups cubed cantaloupe
14 oz. can coconut milk
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
2 Tbs. grated fresh ginger
2 Tbs. chopped mint
1 tsp. almond extract
Dash cinnamon
@¼ cup brown sugar or to taste
Puree all the ingredients, adding the sugar to taste. Chill well. Serve garnished with mint leaves.
Melon Salsa: Serves 4
Wonderful with chicken or fish
½ small cantaloupe –seeded and cubed
4 scallions- white and light green parts in thin slices or ½ small onion in small dice
½ green bell pepper in small dice
1 Tbs. chopped fresh mint
½ lime juiced
Pinch salt
Combine all ingredients and chill well. Serve as a side with the meal.
Tomato -Watermelon Salad: Serves 4
1 slice of watermelon half about 1 inch thick–rind and seeds removed– cut in ¾ inch cubes
1 medium tomato – in large dice
5-6 green leaf lettuce leaves – torn in bite-sized pieces
Orange dressing*
¼ cup Feta or blue cheese crumbles – optional
Make dressing a day ahead and chop vegetables just before assembling salad. Toss all ingredients together with the dressing and serve from a bowl or on plates garnished with the cheese if using.
*Orange Dressing
3/4 cup orange juice
1Tbs.poppy seeds
2 Tbs. oil
Sugar if needed
Slowly boil the juice and poppy seeds together until the juice reduces to about ½ cup; add oil and sugar if needed. Allow to cool and store covered, chilled at least 1 day. Shake well and toss with salad ingredients just before serving.
Watermelon Steak-This can be a side, the center of a dinner salad or a dessert. From The Kitchen.com
1 personal-sized watermelon (about 3 pounds) cut into steaks about 2 inches thick*
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon finely grated lime zest (from 1 to 2 limes)
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Lime wedges from zested lime, for serving
Pat steaks dry. Mix other ingredients and brush on steaks .Saute in a hot pan and serve warm with feta, chopped fresh mint, and drizzle of balsamic.
Alternatively:
Heat an outdoor gas grill to high, or prepare a charcoal grill for high, direct heat grilling. When the grill is hot, add the watermelon slices in a single layer and grill until warmed through and grill marks appear, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Serve the grilled watermelon on its own with lime wedges, topped with feta cheese or Greek yogurt, or as dessert with a scoop of ice cream.
NOTE:HOW TO CUT WATERMELON STEAKS- Cut the watermelon in half lengthwise, then place the flat edge down and cut 1 ½ to 2 inch slices down. It’s better to make them too thick than too thin. Cut out a rectangular steak from each slice.
Melon-Scallop Salad: Serves 4
2 cups melon-any type but watermelon
1 ½ cups chopped tomatoes
½ cucumber-seeded and cubed
1 small onion in thin rings
1 Tbs. fresh mint
1 head green leaf lettuce
1/3 cup citrus vinaigrette
1 lb. broiled scallops
Toss first 5 ingredients and divide among lettuce lined plates. Top with scallops and drizzle with vinaigrette.
Watermelon-Shrimp Salad: Serves 4
3 cups cubed seeded watermelon
1 cup cherry or grape tomatoes –halved
1 small onion in thin rings
1 Tbs. fresh lemon balm or lemon thyme (lemon-pepper to taste is a substitute)
1/8 tsp. Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper to taste
1/3 cup Balsamic vinaigrette
Small head Romaine lettuce –torn
½ lb. cooked shrimp-tails off and halved if large
Have all ingredients chilled. Gently toss and divide among plates.
Melon Sherbet: Serves 6-8
1 medium melon-cantaloupe or casaba
Juice of ½ lemon
4 egg whites
6 oz., sugar-super-fine or ’bar’ sugar is best
¼ -1/2 cup cherries or berries for garnish-optional
Fresh mint leaves for garnish-optional
Cut the melon in half, in a zigzag pattern if to be used it for serving. Remove seeds and cube meat. Blend with the lemon juice until smooth. Pour into a 1 ½ quart container and freeze until beginning to set. Beat the egg whites until stiff and gradually add the sugar. Gently whisk or beat the melon mixture until broken up and light. Fold in the egg whites and return to the freezer and freeze until firmly set. Serve by the scoopful, in the melon shell or dishes. Garnish with fruit and/or mint. Keeps frozen about 1 month.
NOTES: Choose overripe fruit to make sherbet.
For anyone concerned over Salmonella, I recommend substituting Wilton Meringue Powder in any recipe that calls for directly adding raw beaten egg whites. See June 30, 2016 posting on Icy Desserts.
Watermelon Granita: Serves 4
1 small watermelon-seeded and cubed
Sugar to taste
Dash hot pepper sauce and/or lime juice and/or salt to taste
Blend the melon meat and strain through a fine sieve or cheesecloth. Add sugar, dissolve, then add the other flavorings sparingly. Put into a metal 9 X 13 inch pan. Freeze, scraping with a fork to break up every 20-30 min. for 2-3 hours until resembles fluffy shaved ice. Store in a covered container in the freezer for 1 week. Scrape to fluff before serving. (The ice chips don’t clump during storage.)
Melon with Ice Cream
My Mother, who was from a different part of the country, introduced this dessert to my Father’s family. They learned to love it and even had competitions as to the combinations.
Cut a thin slice off one end of the melon and stand it up. Cut a slice off the top just low enough to expose the interior. Scoop out the seeds and fill with softened ice cream or sherbet. Secure the ’cap’ piece with toothpicks and freeze until ice cream is firm. Serve cut in wedges or in rings. Garnish with a drizzle of liqueur- Triple Sec or Crème de Menthe.
Suggestions: Vanilla or peach ice cream with cantaloupe—Triple Sec
Lime sherbet with honeydew –Green Crème de Menthe
Melon Tequila : Serves 4 -From Rozanne Gold’s Recipes 1-2-3 Menu Cookbook
1 large ripe cantaloupe, watermelon or combintion
½ cup tequila + extra for dipping glass rims
4 Tbs. sugar + extra for dipping glass rims
Salt and pepper
Using a scoop make melon balls. Place melon balls in a bowl with other ingredients stirring to dissolve sugar. Cover and chill for 30 min. Dip glass rims in extra tequila then sugar to coat. Fill the glasses with the melon balls. Spoon over any remaining marinade. Serve at once.
