When I say that I like meringues, I’m usually greeted with a look of pity for being so old-fashioned but I do like them. They’re easy to make, have a long shelf life and are fun to work with. Notice I use the plural, meringues not meringue, there is a difference.

Meringue is a 17th century, arguably Swiss, Italian or French, concoction of sugar and egg whites, beaten to stiff peaks mostly used as a topping for pastry. Meringues are sweet molded, confections made by baking meringue until it forms a hard crust.

Both forms were popular until the mid-20^th century. After WWII, frozen or packaged products replaced hand-made ones and meringues don’t freeze or ship well. There is a powdered version, but it’s as labor intensive as ‘from scratch’. Meringue topping lasted a while longer, until salmonella awareness led to avoiding raw eggs. Lemon Meringue pie was an American favorite, on menus from diners to elegant restaurants, but it too has disappeared. Whipped cream, and more often, whipped toppings have replaced meringue.

Actually meringue topping can be quite safe if baked until the top is golden and browned in spots but brulee torches quickly flame brown the top without baking. They’ve become common kitchen utensils and I’ve even seen them recommended for Baked Alaska, another vanishing dessert. Each year, I make a pumpkin meringue pie, but I place it in a 500 deg. oven for 5 min.to brown the top and cook the eggs.

However, none of those worries apply to meringues, which are baked in a low, 250 deg. oven for a couple of hours, until a hard shell forms. It’s the shell that allows meringues to hold a shape and makes them so versatile. Piped into rosettes, shaped into swans, simply spooned onto a baking sheet, they are wonderful small treats. Shaped into pie shells, cake layers, Parfait cups and even bird’s nests, meringues can turn other ingredients into elegant dessert presentations.

Better yet, meringues are fat- free, so they’re low in cholesterol as well as in calories. With fruit they’re the perfect healthy dessert and by replacing batter or dough, remove some of the guilt from ice cream and custard fillings. Best of all, they are truly simple to make needing only a bowl and a beater. Once in the oven they demand to be left alone until done. That sounds more like a modern approach to cooking than an antiquated item to me. See for yourself in the recipes below. You’ll be glad you did because meringues are perfect all year long. They appear frosty giving them a seasonal appeal in cold weather and a cooling appearance when it’s warm. They’re perfect for the low-maintenance spring and summer holidays ahead.

RECIPES

Basic Meringues:

Yield about 25 small or 12 large-recipe doubles or triples easily
IMPORTANT The only thing to beware of is that egg whites will not beat if there is even a trace of any other substance, including water but especially egg yolk, on the beaters or in the bowl.
TIP: egg whites beat better at room temperature.
Cookie Sheet and Waxed Paper:
2 egg whites
½ cup sugar
2 drops cider vinegar
½ tsp. flavoring**
Cover the cookie sheet with the waxed paper. Carefully separate the eggs, putting the whites in a clean, dry bowl. It might be wise to break them separately, over another bowl, then transfer each white into the beating bowl. That way, if there’s a bit of yoke in the last white, you don’t have to start over. With clean, dry beaters, beat the eggs until they form soft peaks, @ 1 ½ – 2 min. Still beating, add the vinegar, gradually pour in the sugar, and continue beating until glossy peaks form when you lift the beaters. Add the flavoring, beat to mix.
Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Drop the meringue batter on the covered cookie sheet by the teaspoon or soupspoon depending on desired size, forming little mounds about 2 inches apart; cook 1 hour. While still warm, remove the meringues from the paper, and allow to cool on a rack.
** Vanilla is usual if used with other ingredients. I like Maple to serve as individual treats. It’s also greaton autumn to give a seasonal presentation and taste.
NOTE: meringues are handy to have on hand. They can be eaten as cookies and are lower in calories. They keep in an air-tight tin for months. The batter can also be cooked flat or in shapes and used to replace pie crust or pastry shells.

Peach Melba:

Per portion
1 large scoop ice cream-vanilla is customary but peach or strawberry are options
2 meringues-see recipe above*
1 peach half- canned peaches can be used, but fresh, skinned ones are better.
3 Tb. raspberry sauce**
Place the peach half in the bottom of a dessert dish, top with ice cream. Press a meringue into each side of the ice cream scoop and pour the raspberry sauce over.
**NOTE: Melba Sauce is sold in gourmet sections, but fresh berries tossed with sugar are better in spring as are frozen raspberries sweetened to taste.

Milano Style Cookies

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Fruit Parfaits

Mound the meringue in high piles on the cookie sheet and make deep wells in the center of each with the back of a spoon. Bake as directed in the master recipe and before serving fill the wells with fresh fruit, pie filling and/or custard. For extra stability try the recipe below for nests.

Meringue Rounds:

Use plates to draw templates on waxed paper. The rounds can be layered like cake separated by different fillings. Cook as for meringues in the recipe above.

Angel Nests:

Add 1 Tbs. flour and 1 Tbs. cornstarch to just 3 egg whites per cup of sugar. Shape them on a template, using the back of a fork to raise the sides into nests. Bake at 250 degrees for 60 min. Leave in oven for 30 min. Cool on a wire rack. Store in a dry place until ready to use, up to a week. Fill centers with fresh fruit and serve with whipped cream, or topping, on the side. These can also be made in individual portions, and are most attractive. Judging by the timing to cook basic meringues, I don’t think there would be much adjustment to the directions either. Something you might want to try.

Meringue Pie Shells

Follow the directions for the dacquoise below, omitting the chocolate and reducing the recipe by 1/3 if only one pie is needed. Fill with custard, fruit or mousse.

Chocolate Dacquoise:

Serves 6-8
4 eggs
1 cup sugar
8 oz. semisweet chocolate
4 Tbs. shaved chocolate
Line (3) inch pie tins with waxed paper. Separate eggs, make meringues of whites and sugar. Melt 2 oz. chocolate and add to beaten whites, mixing well. Divide egg mix between the tins spreading evenly. Bake at 275 deg.60-70 min. until crisp. Melt 6 oz. chocolate with 2 Tbs. water until smooth-keep warm. Heat yolks and 2 Tbs. water in the top of a double boiler, whisking to increase volume and cook slightly. Fold yolks into chocolate mixing well. Place one meringue layer on serving plate. ‘Ice’ with 1/3 of yolk mixture, repeat with second meringue layer and then the third, ending with yolk mix. Garnish with chocolate shavings over the top. Cool and serve in wedges cut with a serrated knife.

Fruit Gateau:

Serves 6
3 ½ cups mixed berries or diced, skinned soft fruit-if using large strawberries chop to size
3 cups ice cream- flavor optional
2 Tbs. powdered sugar
4 oz. meringues = 1 small per cup of other ingredients or 6 here—See recipe below*
Dampen a 2 lb. loaf pan and line it with waxed paper. Put the fruit in a bowl with the sugar and toss until it begins to break up but don’t let it get mushy. Put the ice cream in another bowl and break it up with a fork. Add the broken meringues and the fruit. Fold the ingredients together until lightly marbled. Pack the mixture into the prepared pan and press down lightly to level. Cover and freeze overnight. To serve, invert on a plate, remove wrap and slice.
*NOTE: This is delicious with an interesting texture. However, it’s difficult to slice. I think I’ll make it in individual molds from now on, perhaps even use muffin cups