MUSHROOMS-THE DIETER’S FRIEND
Last week I mentioned that this year, my New Year’s resolution to lose weight has to cover more than the added holiday pounds. It has to include clearing out the sluggish, stuffed feeling I’ve acquired over the past months of less activity and more snacking. In other words, I’m starting a ‘cleanse’, rather than a ‘diet’. Nothing official or fancy, I’m simply going to stick to simple recipes, direct cooking methods and focus on the natural taste of a food or combination of foods.
Sometimes this is referred to as ‘plain cooking’ but there doesn’t have to be anything plain about the taste. Herbs, spices and lots of foods like onions, celery and peppers, add flavor without calories. I think my favorite is mushrooms because they can also elevate the presentation of dish.
Actually mushrooms have a split personality. On one hand they’re traditionally considered gourmet items, famous for their mild, subtle flavor, decorative presentations and elevation if any dish in which they’re an ingredient. They work magic with recipes. Add them to a dish with gravy or cream sauce, plus optionally a bit of wine, and it becomes worthy of a name. Stuff the caps with something as simple as the chopped stems, breadcrumbs, an herb and/or cheese and it’s a party canapé and they elevate a plain stuffing to ‘special’ status
On the other hand they’re always readily available, fresh or canned, all year, reasonably priced and easy to work with. They have a long shelf life and fresh, keep chilled well, need little prep and cook quickly. Any other vegetable with those qualities would be treated as a workhorse rather than a ‘frill’.
Moreover, they might just be the most undervalued tool in a dieter’s box. Sturdier than, but with the same nutritional values as zucchini, more than celery or cucumbers, mushrooms can replace starchier carbs in adding body in a casserole, and even to the bedding for a dish. They work magic with almost any recipe. Slice them raw into a mix of greens and fruit, with vinaigrette and perhaps a garnish of cheese and/or nuts and it becomes a light entrée. Here’s an item which can make leftovers ‘special’, and with little effort or cost can provide elegant hors d’ouvres, a light entrée or side dish, without any ‘guilt’ calories, definitely an asset to have on hand.
Here is a list of the types of mushrooms regularly found in markets.
Button– Cultivated, white or cream color, mild taste, served raw or cooked
Prime-Largest of the button mushrooms
Porcini- Wild, brown to tan, umbrella shaped caps, smoky flavor, meaty, grill, sauté, broil – also called Baby Bello’s
Portobellos-Wild and tame, tan to brown, large flat caps, meaty, mild flavor, grill, broil, roast
Chanterelle- Wild, trumpet shaped, bright yellow to orange, good with fowl, veal, eggs and sauces
Enoki– Wild and tame, tiny white caps with long stems, fruity and tangy, good raw in salads and sandwiches, sauté, stir-fry
Morel– Wild, tan to brown, cone shaped, meaty, nutty flavor, good in creamy dishes
Shiitake– Wild and tame, large ivory umbrella shaped caps, meaty, smoky flavor, good with fowl and game.
Normally three types are used for all-purpose work; the common white Button, the Portabella and the Porcini, also called correctly, Baby Bellos. Buttons are uniformly tender and the first choice to use raw. Portabellas, even’ Babys’, develop a nutty, meaty taste when cooked which brings out the best in them.
Buttons and Porcini cooked or raw, marinate well and are the proper size to stuff for appetizers. Large Portabellas are great grilled or broiled as additions to entrees or filled and baked as a main course. Not only do they exceed ‘bite size’, but like many vegetables allowed to fully mature, they’re less tender, but quite sturdy.
The only prepping fresh mushrooms need is a wipe with a damp cloth. Stubborn soil can be removed by gently swishing them in a bowl of cool water but be sure to dry them on towels. To remove the stem, hold the cap and twist. It will pop off. A thin slice removes a dried tip, if needed. Often recipes suggest using a spoon to scrape off the gills, but I find they add flavor, preserve structure and allow a bit of space to leaven stuffing.
The best way to present the recipes this week is in the sequence in which they would appear on a menu. Since there are more than enough mushroom recipes to fill a cookbook, I’m going to try to give a wide selection here. To see more check out my post for Dec. 21, 2017. Also, remember, as stated in the opening paragraphs, mushrooms can be added to, as well as substitute for many ingredients in casseroles, stews, soups, salads and sides . Feel free to use your initiative to change he carb and calorie count of dishes. I will be doing just that and I won’t even banish creamy sauces. I make them with skim milk, cornstarch instead of cream and flour reducing the calories.
RECIPES
The majority of recipes can be made using raw mushrooms as well as commercially packaged or fresh ones that have been processed at home. Processing them at home preserves them, lengthening their shelf which allows advance preparation. Below are the main ways to do that.
Pickled: Tiny mushrooms, even canned or jarred ones can be pickled by boiling for 2 min. in a solution of 1/3 vinegar of choice and water to cover,1 clove garlic and 1 bay leaf, then marinating for 1-2 days. Serve them, drained, in a bowl with toothpicks.
Marinated: For 1 lb. mushrooms, stems removed first: Mix ` cup white wine vinegar, 2 tsp. oil, 1 clove chopped garlic, 1 tsp. Sage, 2 tsp. parsley, in a bowl. Add mushrooms and let stand 12-48 hrs. stirring occasionally. Serve drained with toothpicks or stuff.
Cooked: Mushrooms cook quickly and become wrinkled and tough when overdone. They can be steamed for about 15 min. in a double boiler with a bit of butter, but the more flavorful ways are to sauté them in butter or oil, or on a buttered cookie sheet, bake for about 8 min, at 375 deg. or broil them for about 5 min. turning once just until they release their juices. Toss them to mix and cool.
Mushroom Soup: Serves 2 from 501 Recipes for a Low Carb Life by Gregg R. Gillespie & Mary B. Johnson
1 Tbs. oil
1 Tbs. butter
6 oz. chopped mushrooms + a few slices for garnish
2 tsp. flour
1 ¼ cups broth
½ cup half and half or milk
! Tbs. heavy or sour cream for garnish-optional
Dried herbs for garnish-optional
Salt and pepper
Sauté the mushrooms in the oil and butter with salt and pepper until softened, about 4 min. Quickly stir in the flour until blended, then add the broth all at once and bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, constantly stirring, until thickened, about 3-5 min. Puree soup, stir in the half and half or milk and heat through. Serve with the cream garnish swirled on top.
Mushroom Salad Dressing: Yield 1 cup- from 501 Recipes for a Low Carb Life by Gregg R. Gillespie & Mary B. Johnson
¼ oz. dried porcini mushrooms
1 cup broth or water
½ cup virgin olive oil
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Soak mushrooms in liquid until soft, about 15 min. Then bring to a boil and simmer until liquid reduces to ¼ cup. Strain through cheesecloth into a blender, reserve mushrooms. Add the vinegar to the blender and with the motor running add the oil in a steady stream and blend until mixture emulsifies. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve over a plate of fresh greens with other vegetables. Toss with the mushrooms or save hem for another use.
STUFFED MUSHROOMS: This is such a frequent presentation that it deserves a section of its own. Recipe quantities may vary because of difference in mushroom sizes. Additionally, several recipes can be used for raw, processed or cooked. Mushrooms shrink when cooked or pickled. If preparing ahead for guests, remember raw has a shorter shelf life, a few hours at most when stuffed.
Cheese Stuffing: Serves 30- From the Everything Low Carb Cookbook by Patricia M . Brutus
30 medium mushroom caps—steamed or pickled
2/3 cup small curd cottage cheese
3 oz. crumbled Feta cheese
1 lemon pepper to taste
½ tsp. olive oil
1 Tbs. dried dill weed + more to garnish
Mix ingredients 1-5 and stuff mushroom caps. Garnish and serve chilled.
My Stuffed Mushrooms: Serves about 24
24 medium-small marinated mushroom caps
4-5 oz. liver pate-I like Sell’s by Underwood Co.*
½ small onion grated
Dijon mustard to taste
Dash lemon pepper
! Tbs. mayonnaise-only enough to smooth
Dash hot sauce or pinch cayenne –optional
Dried parsley to garnish
Mix the liver with the next 5 ingredients, stuff mushrooms and garnish, Serve chilled or at room. temperature.
* ¼ lb. Deli liverwurst may be an acceptable substitute, but test for taste when adding the other ingredients
SIDES
Sautéed Portobellos with Herbs de Provence: Serves 4- from Gourmet Cooking -5 Ingredients by Deborah Anderson
12 oz. Portobello caps-stems and gills removed
2 Tbs. virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves-peeled and chopped
2 tsp. dried herbs de Provence*
1 ½ Tbs. balsamic vinegar
Gently scrub the mushrooms and pat dry with paper towels. Slice into large bite-sized pieces. Sauté in 1 Tbs. oil over medium heat, shaking often until mushrooms brown. Add the garlic, herbs and cook 2-3 min. more. Add vinegar and cook 1 min. Serve at once, warm, tossed with the reserved oil.
*Herbs de Provence-Combined dried rosemary, thyme, lavender, basil, fennel seed, marjoram and savory.
Library Mushrooms: Serves 4-6
1 lb. medium mushrooms-stems off, large caps sliced in half
2 Tbs. butter
1 Tbs. soy sauce
Sautee mushrooms in butter until beginning to brown, Add soy sauce and toss to mix.* Cover and cook on low 5 min. Serve hot with meat.
*Mushrooms and sauce can be sealed in a foil packet, leaving a steam vent, at this point and heated with the entrée at a later time.
LIGHT ENTREES
Mushrooms Au Gratin: *Serves 4-From the Everything Low Carb Cookbook by Patricia M. Butkus
1 lb. small button mushrooms-stems on and trimmed
Juice of 1 lemon
2 Tbs. brandy
¼ cup oil
1 small shallot chopped
2 Tbs. EACH sour cream, tomato paste, honey and Dijon mustard
Pinch cayenne pepper
Salt and pepper
1 Tbs. bread crumbs
2 Tbs. Gruyere cheese or Monterey Jack
Marinate the mushrooms in the lemon juice and brandy for 10 min. Sauté the shallot in the oil for1 min without browning, add the marinade and reduce for 2 min. add the mushrooms and sauté for 2 min . Remove the mushrooms to a shallow casserole. Add the cream, tomato paste, honey, salt, pepper and cayenne to the skillet and boil stirring for 2 min.; add the mustard but do not allow to boil. Pour this sauce over the mushrooms and top with bread crumbs and cheese. Run the dish under a preheated low broiler until golden. Serve hot on toast rounds.
* This can also be served as a side
My Mushrooms in Wine Sauce: Serves 2
12 or 16 large button mushroom caps- stems off and roughly chopped
4 Tbs. butter
½ cup white wine—Vermouth works wells
Salt and pepper
4 thin slices rye bread –toasted—preferable Jewish Rye with seeds
2 Tbs. fresh parsley- chopped R 1 Tbs. dried
Melt 2 Tbs. of the butter and sauté the caps until golden. Remove to a warm oven. Melt the rest of the butter and sauté the stems adding salt and pepper to taste. Add the wine and the rest of the butter and boil a few minute to reduce slightly. Place 2 slices of toast on each plate, divide the mushroom caps equally between the toast slices and pour the sauce over them. Garnish with parsley and serve hot
Italian Stuffed Portobellos: Serves 4
4 large portabella caps-4 ½ > 5 inches across -wiped clean, stems removed, rinsed and patted dry
3 Tbs. oil
1 cup minced onion
2/3 cup minced bell peppers
3 garlic cloves –minced
3 Tbs. chopped fresh basil
2/3 cup ricotta cheese
1 cup grated mozzarella cheese
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt to taste
3 Tbs. whole wheat breadcrumbs
Sauté the onions in 2 Tbs. oil, until beginning to soften, about 5 min., add the peppers and garlic and sauté 5 min. more. Mix the next 6 ingredients in a bowl and stir in the vegetables. Brush the mushrooms with the remaining oil and place gill side up in a lightly oiled baking dish. Mound the cheese mixture equally in each cap and bake in a preheated 400 deg. oven, 20-25 min. until the mushrooms release their juices and the cheese melts. Serve hot. VARIATION:
Substitute thyme or marjoram for the basil
Halve the amount of onions
Substitute ground or minced ham for the ricotta and half the mozzarella measure.
Omit the sage and parsley
Follow the above directions, but don’t mix the cheeses into the ham and vegetable stuffing. Sprinkle them over tops before cooking, first the mozzarella then the Parmesan.
Mushrooms with Scallops: Serves 4- From Rozanne Gold’s Recipes 1-2-3-Menu Cookbook
This can be either a canapé or entree depending on sizes
20 small> medium mushroom caps or (20) 1 ½ + inch large mushroom caps- buttons or baby Bellas for the canapés and portabellas for the entrees.
20 scallops depending on size of mushrooms-calicos or bays for canapés or sea scallops for entrees
Salt and pepper
½-3/4 cup pesto
Sprinkle the inside of the caps with salt and pepper . Fit a scallop snugly into each mushroom cap and place in a baking pan with several tablespoons of water. Top with 1 tsp. to 1 ½ tsp. pesto sauce and bake in a preheated 450 deg. oven for about 8 min. until scallops are opaque. Serve hot.
ENTREES
Portabellas with Seafood Stuffing: Serves 2
4 large portabella mushroom caps
1 cup crabmeat, scallops or cooked, diced fish or shrimp*
¾ cup white sauce**
¼ cup + Bread crumbs
Salt and pepper
1tsp. dried herb of choice- tarragon, dill, bay
1 Tbs. Dry sherry- optional
Grated Parmesan
1Tbs. dried parsley
Mix the seafood, sauce, seasonings and herbs with just enough bread crumbs to bind. Divide the filling among the mushrooms, top with the cheese and garnish with the parsley. Place on a buttered surface, pan or cookie sheet and bake in a preheated 375 deg. oven until puffed and golden. Serve at once.
* Equal portions of chopped chicken, turkey or ham can be substituted. Change herbs and liquor accordingly.
** A bottled white sauce such as Alfredo can be substituted. To make ¾ cup white sauce: Bring 1 ½ Tbs. butter to foaming. Remove from heat and stir in 1 ½ Tbs. flour to make a smooth paste or Roux. Quickly add ¾ cup milk and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly until thickened about 3 min. Do not allow to boil.
Fish with Mushrooms and Artichoke: Serves 4-from The Moosewood Restaurant New Classics Cookbook
4 fillets of firm white fish, tilapia, scrod, haddock
4 cups thinly sliced mushrooms
2 cups thinly sliced onions
2 cups sliced artichoke hearts
4 tsp. drained capers
¼ cup olive oil
½ cup lemon juice
4 tsp, Dijon mustard
¼ cup chopped fresh thyme-or 4 tsp. dried
Salt and pepper to taste
4 sprigs fresh sage-optional
¼ cup chopped parsley-optional
(4) 12×24 inch sheets of foil
Fold foil in half to make (4) 12 inch squares. Layer onions and mushrooms equally on each square, Place a fish fillet on each pile, top with artichokes. Combine next 6 ingredients in a bowl and pour over the fish. Top with sage, if using, Fold foil to close packages and crimp edges to seal. Bake in a preheated 450 deg. oven for 20 min. on a rimmed baking sheet to catch drips. Open packages carefully to avoid steam, discard sage and garnish with parsley.
Ham with Mushrooms and Marsala: Serves 6
(6) ¼ lb. slices cooked ham
2 Tbs. butter
2 Tbs. oil
10 oz. fresh porcini mushrooms cut in thick slices
¼ cup beef stock
¼ cup Marsala wine
Salt and pepper to taste
Flour for dusting –optional
Melt oil and butter over medium heat, sauté mushrooms until tender, about 5 min. Remove to a plate with a slotted spoon. Optionally lightly dusting the ham with flour, sauté it in the pan to brown both sides, about 5 min. Add the stock, cover and simmer 5 min. add the Marsala, cover and simmer 5 min. more, add the mushrooms and heat through about 3 min. Season with salt and pepper and serve hot.
