Pasta and Carbohydrates – Truths, Myths and Pasta Recipes

Last week we discussed that though protein may build muscle, it’s carbohydrates that keep you going because they provide energy. However there are two types of carbohydrates, the simple and the complex. The simple ones are sugars which enter the bloodstream quickly and give you a fast, but temporary boost like a “Snickers Break”. The complex carbohydrates are starches which convert into glucose and enter the bloodstream at a steady, constant rate getting you through the day.  Excess glucose is stored by the body in cells it creates for the purpose, cells which we call “fat cells”. This explains why that extra helping of spaghetti will indeed fill you out as well as up.

This brings us to the subject of pasta, Rice may be the world’s most widely consumed food, but pasta is the favorite carbohydrate, at least in the Western Hemisphere. Actually both rice and pasta are of Asian origin. Rice is a grain which traveled the Trade Route, but while Marco Polo is credited with bringing the art of making noodles to Europe, the Romans had already learned the basics from the Arabs.

To clarify the fine difference between noodles and pasta, “noodles” derives from the Latin “nodus” or knot, through the German word for them “nudel”. “Pasta” is Greek for “barley porridge” which became the Latin for “pastry dough”. Noodles must be 5.5% egg solids by weight. Pasta is lighter, containing fewer eggs and must be made from durum wheat by law in Italy. Noodles are generally flat and considered an accompaniment to a dish, while pasta exists in many shapes and can be an entrée in itself. Both are available in fresh or dried forms, and require boiling in liquid to be edible, but noodles, unlike pasta, are often fried in different cuisines. In addition, noodles are usually cooked longer and served soft, whereas pasta is preferred al dente or firm.

Like most other foods we consume today, pasta’s come a long way in the past few decades. Even the word itself has only gained recognition in the last fifty years. Before that there was spaghetti, macaroni and ravioli and then there were noodles, the things found in soup. Now we correctly consider “pasta” to as a general category and refer to the individual shapes by their given names, both in English and Italian.

Pasta comes dried or fresh. “Fresh” pasta is sold in different forms. It can be truly “artesian” or just made, or commercially made and preserved by packaging or frozen. The one thing all pasta labeled “Fresh” has in common is that the dough hasn’t been dried and will cook faster than its counterparts that have been. Though specialty and gourmet stores may carry a wide range of fresh pastas, the types usually found in Supermarkets are the stuffed like ravioli and tortellini. Many brands are very good, but remember they cook faster than dried, so follow the directions, and when choosing brands pick the one with the sheerest dough.  The stuffing should be visible through the dough, not just make a mound under it.

Many people have become so knowledgeable about pasta that they have bought their own machines to make it at home. My advice to them is to learn the manufacturer’s instructions for their machine so they can work quickly to keep the dough soft, because it will become brittle if it starts to dry. Be sure to clean the machine by rolling the rollers backward and brushing them with a pastry brush as soon as you’re done or bits of dried dough will clog it. To imbed spices or herbs in pasta, sprinkle a sheet of desired thinness with the seasoning(s) and cover with another sheet. Then carefully roll them through the machine once more and cut into desired sizes.

Either cook fresh pasta at once or dry strands over a dowel or broom handle until it’s no longer moist. Dust with semolina flour to prevent sticking and coil the strands and set them on racks to dry completely. If working with shapes, leave them spread out on a baking sheet or cutting board until dry, again dusted with flour. Fresh pasta can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for about a week, or frozen. Commercially dried pasta keeps almost indefinitely, but it’s wise to store it in an airtight container too, once the original package has been opened.

Fresh pasta is measure for measure per portion, but the general rule for dried pasta is ½ cup shaped dried pasta per portion, or ½ inch diameter of a bunch of strand pasta—about the size of a dime. Personally, I find these measurements a bit lean. I usually calculate 2/3 cup and ¾ inch or a penny. Pasta should never be overcooked. Begin testing fresh pasta and thin dried pasta after 30 secs. ; for thicker dried pasta wait about 7 mins. The only way to test it is to bite into a piece and keep repeating the process at intervals until the pasta is tender but still slightly firm or “al dente.” Immediately drain it or it will continue to cook, but unless it’s for a salad or to be baked, don’t rinse it or you will remove the surface starch which helps the sauce to adhere.

Choosing the right pasta depends on the sauce to be used. The soft texture of fresh pasta absorbs the flavors of light, or silky butter and cream based sauces better than dried. Dried pasta holds up well to being paired with hearty and robust flavors. Types of pasta with long strands, especially dried, are traditionally used with thin oily sauces. Larger shapes, with crevices to catch the ingredients, like shells, are best for chunky sauces. The approved method of introducing the pasta to the sauce is to drain it, and add it to the heated sauce. Shake the pot to combine the two, or even toss them gently, then invert the pot contents into a serving bowl or platter. The exceptions are delicate, stuffed pastas like ravioli or mezzaluna. They should be removed from the water to a plate with a slotted spoon and the sauce ladled over.

Incidentally, ravioli originated in Genoa and the name comes from “raboli” the local dialect word for “rubbish” because they offer such a great way to use leftovers. I often make ravioli from wanton or egg roll wraps. Mince the ingredients for the filling well and place about 1 ½ tsp. in the center of a 3in. square piece of wrap.  Brush the edges with a mixture 1 egg yolk and 1 Tbs. of water to act as “glue.” Fold the corners over, squeezing out the air, and pinch the edges together. Lay the “ravioli” on a baking sheet dusted with flour as you go. To make large ones, use two 3in squares and 2Tbs. filling. Gently boil uncovered, 3-5 mins. until just tender. Remove individually with a slotted spoon and toss gently with the sauce, then put on the serving plate. When all are finished, pour the remaining sauce over and garnish as desired.

Cooking pasta is a straightforward process.  Bring the required amount of water to a boil, dump in the desired amount of pasta and cook for the directed time, testing often. Having lived in Italy. I have two alterations to the accepted method in the U.S.  The first time I cooked with Italians I got royally teased. I was told that pasta isn’t rice, which absorbs a lot of water. I didn’t need to drown it! Fact is, it’s a lot easier, and safer when dealing with boiling liquid, to use less. The trick is to gage the space the finished pasta will occupy in the pot and add a generous 2 cups liquid to estimate the amount of liquid actually needed. The second change, practiced by many chefs in Italy, is to cook the pasta in broth, or add 1Tbs. bullion powder to the water, which eliminates the option of adding salt and adds amazingly to the taste of the pasta. Other tips for cooking pasta are:

1.  To prevent boiling over, rub the inside rim of the pot with oil before heating it.
   • Blow on the water as it starts to boil over and until heat reduction takes effect
   • Plunge a wooden spoon into the water
   • Remove pot from the heat.

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2. To salvage overdone pasta-Rinse it in tepid water to remove the starchy film then plate it and pour the sauce over instead of tossing.
   • use overdone pasta in a frittata or a casserole
3. To make pasta for a casserole reduce the cooking time by one-third. It will finish in the oven.
4. To cook ahead of time, drain and soak in ice water until room temperature. Toss with a little oil and refrigerate in a zip-lock bag. To reheat, plunge in boiling water for 20 secs. until pieces separate drain and toss with sauce.
5.  To unstuck pasta, plunge it into hot water.
6. To prevent lasagna noodles from sticking awaiting assembly, keep them in a pan of cool water.
7. To create interesting texture, mix shapes of similar size.
8. To make draining easy, use a pot with a perforated liner.
9. To shorten cooking time, add salt after water boils. Salted water takes longer to come to a boil

Another tip to remember in making pasta is to always save some of the drained liquid. It can thin a thick sauce and, because of the starch content, thicken a thin one when stirred in over heat. However, the sauce should always be ready when the pasta is drained, so that both elements of the dish can mesh together to present one temperature when served. If you’re health conscious, there are several options available, high fiber whole wheat pastas and pastas made from vegetables like artichokes and corn. There are even gluten free pastas made from quinoa or wild rice. There is also a large variety of traditional oriental pastas on the market, but that’s another posting. The important thing to remember is that pasta is inexpensive, easy, quick, popular and so very, very versatile. It can be a fast pick-up meal or an elegant experience.

SOME EASY PASTA SAUCES:

1. Sauté a mixture of vegetables, fresh and/or frozen in a bit of oil to crisp tender. Add a bit of pasta water some seasonings, toss with hot, cooked pasta and top with grated cheese.
2. Sauté some minced onion and garlic in oil, add cooked chicken and herbs like Rosemary or Tarragon or a vegetable like asparagus tips, a bit of pasta water  if needed, toss with hot, cooked pasta and top with Feta cheese.
3.  Combine 2/3 cup half and half, 2 tsp lemon zest, and 2 Tbs. capers . Cook until thickened and toss with hot, cooked pasta. Garnish liberally with fresh ground pepper.
4. Sauté 1 small onion chopped, a pinch of garlic powder in 1 Tbs. olive oil for 3 mins. Add a 10 oz can of baby clams, ¼ cup of vermouth or white wine. Allow to cook down for about 3 mins. Add a ½ cup of chopped fresh parsley and toss with hot, cooked pasta.
5. Sauté 4oz. sliced then cut in 1 in. pieces, lean ham in 2 Tbs. oil until edges begin to brown. Add 1 cup frozen or fresh green peas. Add ½ cup half and half and 1 cup milk and 1 lb cooked penne al dente. Bring to a boil and continue to boil, stirring constantly, until liquid reduces to a thick sauce- about 5 mins. Add salt to taste. Garnish with freshly ground black pepper and Parmesan cheese. Serve this dish at once.

There are many books on pasta, but this information may help to start you experimenting on your own and help you decide which paths to investigate further. In fact, writing this I realized I know very little about the role of pasta in oriental cuisines. So I’m going to explore that subject and rather than go on to potatoes, the third popular starch choice, I may share my findings with you next week.