PORK CUTS OTHER THAN LOIN
My favorite market ran a deep special on Pork Butt (also called Boston Butt) last week and they were beautiful cuts. As I put my selection in the cart, a watching friend remarked she’d like get one but her husband couldn’t eat pork. I blinked; this man loves baked ham, rare beef and bags a deer every fall. She explained that, after lap-band surgery, pork meat was too coarsely textured and dry to easily digest.
A light bulb went on and I asked if she always bought pork loin. She did and admitted it was usually loin chops which she broiled or grilled. I realized lots of people must have my friend’s hesitation about pork, due to lack of familiarity. This is unfortunate, especially now when the variety of not just different cuts but meats has declined. Most markets only offer chicken, beef and pork and the prices are rising so quickly that we’re forced to explore unfamiliar, formerly considered lesser, cuts.
Back in the ‘80s-‘90s, fat was the villain. Everything had to be no-fat, low-fat or ‘lite’. Pork was starred as ‘The other white meat’ and pork loins, which really are one of the leanest cuts of meat, became popular. There were two problems with that; pork loin has no marbling to keep it moist, and fear of trichinosis dictated that all pork be very well cooked, a practice which dries any meat.
Modern husbandry has removed the threat of trichinosis, which solves one problem. But pork, like poultry, still needs to be fully cooked, for the same reasons, to kill bacteria common in non-blood white meats. So problem two remains, pork dries out quickly, making loins particularly difficult to cook. They need to be roasted with the fat cap up, and loin cuts, chops or roast, require a watchful eye.
The answer is to look to other cuts of pork. We’re familiar with ham and bacon but the shoulder roasts, and ‘arm chops’ are finer grained, moister, some claim tastier, almost as lean and more forgiving than the loins. Like hams, shoulder roasts are divided into two parts. This can cause some confusion because the top half is called the ‘butt’ just as with hams but distinguished by another name –‘Pork Butt’ or ‘Boston Butt’. The bottom is called the ‘Picnic’.
Pork or Boston Butts are square in shape, and well marbled with intramuscular fat. They are sold bone in or boned with the fat cap intact. They are recommended for long cooked savory stewed and braised recipes or for barbequing and pulled pork or taco dishes.
Pork Picnics are leaner and often sold with skin on. Whole picnics are best for roasting, and can stay in the oven until the skin crackles without drying. Triangular in shape, they are sold bone in but often presented in netting boned and rolled. They unroll in an uneven layer which can be divided for use in chop recipes, small rolls, cubes for casseroles even as ‘country ribs’.
Arm chops, often labeled arm steaks, depending on size, are slices of picnic roast. Available smoked or fresh they can be treated as any chop or steak, except that they must be fully cooked. Again, however, they’re more forgiving and juicer than loin chops.
As for my friend, she took a chance, bought a pork roast and I emailed her recipes. She reports that the recipes were easy; her husband liked them and had no digestive problems. She’s delighted to have another meat option, especially if her husband doesn’t bring home a deer this year. Moreover, she loves the fact that pork stands in for chicken, turkey and veal in most dishes. It opens lots of recipe windows. So give pork a second thought and try some of the recipes below…..
For more on pork see post for Jan. 12, 2017 To stretch a pork roast into 5 meals see April12, 2014.
RECIPES
Mushroom Stuffed Pork Roast with Wine Sauce-Suggestion for a boned picnic roast
3 lb. boneless pork loin roast (the best alternate is beef tenderloin or round roast-adjust cooking times)
(1) 10 oz. box chopped spinach – thawed and well drained
8 oz. canned mushrooms sliced or stems and pieces – drained
Ground nutmeg
Salt and pepper
1 large onion in small dice
1 cup + beef broth
2 Tbs . oil
3 cups red wine
Butterfly the roast by slicing it lengthwise down the center almost through. Open it like a book and make similar slices down the length of each side in the center. Cover the meat with plastic wrap and pound to an even thinness. Spread the spinach evenly over the surface, leaving a 1 inch margin on 3 sides, but not on one edge of the first cut. Sprinkle lightly with nutmeg, and top with the mushrooms. Roll up the meat, starting with the side with no margin and tie with string every inch or so, securing the roll. Rub the outside lightly with salt and pepper, place in a roasting pan and cook in a preheated oven (350 deg. for pork) according to directions for cut.* When the roast reaches desired doneness, plate and let rest a few minutes . Serve in thin slices.
Meanwhile, sauté the onion in oil in a saucepan until soft. Add 3 cups wine and allow wine to cook down, adding in beef broth to maintain original level of liquid-about 1 cup total. When it reaches desired strength, add salt and pepper to taste. Can be made ahead and reheated. Serve warm with roast.
*Pork takes about 2 hours to reach 150 deg. at 350 deg.
*Beef tenderloin should be cooked at 500 deg. for 30 min. or until temperature reaches 145 deg. for medium rare.
*Beef round should be cooked as tenderloin if wanted rare, but as pork if desired well done. Remember, the longer beef cooks the tougher it gets, unless being stewed or steamed to tenderness.
Roast Pork Au Jus This is for 2 servings but amounts vary with number of portions.
Loin of pork
1 tsp. dried powdered rosemary, dried marjoram or thyme
½ tsp. black pepper
1 ½ cups of chicken broth
¼ cup Madera or Port
Rub meat with the seasonings and put in a pan with a bit of broth in the bottom to prevent sticking. Roast in a 350 deg. oven for 30-35 min. per pound until thermometer reads 170 deg. and meat is nicely browned. Use broth to keep meat from sticking while cooking, and the reserve to deglaze the pan. You should have a bit over 1 cup left. Mix broth and wine and boil until alcohol burns off and it reduces a bit Pass with meat.
My Nana’s Pork and Kraut
1 1/2 >2 lb. any type bone-in pork chops or small Boston, Arm or Picnic roast-moderately trimmed
2 large cans or 2 bag kraut
water
Instant mashed potatoes
Place half the kraut in the bottom of a large pot, layer on the pork and cover with the remaining kraut, Pour over enough water just to cover, bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover pot with a lid and simmer for 2 + hrs. until meat is very tender. Serve over mashed potatoes-I use instant because the kraut gives them all the flavor they need.
Stew in a Pumpkin; Serves 6-8 Can be done with acorn squash
3 Tbs. butter
2 lbs. beef for stew cubed
3 Tbs. cornstarch
2 large onions diced
3 tomatoes chopped
2 Tbs. butter
¼ tsp. EACH salt and pepper
3 cups beef stock
½ lb. prunes
½ lb. dried apricots
3 sweet potatoes sliced
(2) 10 oz. packages corn –thawed and drained
1 pumpkin, top cut off and reserved, cleaned of pulp and seeds.
Melt 3 Tbs. butter in a Dutch oven. Roll the meat in the cornstarch and brown. Set aside. Melt 2 Tbs. butter in a separate pan and sauté vegetables until tender. Add to meat with juices. Add all remaining ingredients except pumpkin, cover and simmer 1 hr. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Ladle stew into the pumpkin; set in a roasting pan with 1 inch of water, and bake for 1 hr. Carefully transfer pumpkin from the pan to a serving dish and replace its top as a lid for garnish. Serve at once scooping out some of the pumpkin meat as you ladle out the portions.
Single servings can be made using individual tiny pumpkins or delicata squash. Reduce oven time to 45 min.
NOTE: I save clean-up by sautéing the vegetables in the Dutch oven first and then browning the meat. It’s one less pot. Also if you have it on hand, replace one cup of stock with beer. It deepens the flavor.
Spicy Pork: Serves 6
3-4 lb. pork cut in 2>3 inch cubes (use chicken thighs and reduce cooking time to 2 hrs.)*
2 Tbs. EACH oil, chili powder, chile flakes, chopped cilantro, chopped parsley
½ Tbs. EACH seasoned salt and ground cumin
1Tbs. EACH minced garlic, dried oregano and black pepper
1 cup EACH diced onion and chicken broth
In a large bowl mix all ingredients but broth. Toss to coat pork well and marinate, chilled, at least 4 hrs. Put the mixture in a Dutch oven or covered oven-proof pot; add broth and cook in a preheated 350 deg. oven for 3 ½ to 4 hrs. until meat is fork tender. Serve hot in bowls or over grain or pasta.
*This might be interesting with whole drumsticks
PORK IN PEPPER SAUCE: Serves 4
This dish can be done two ways – on a grill – Method A – OR in a skillet – Method B. Either way the sauce is made first. Turkey, chicken or veal can be substituted.
@ 1 1/2 to 2 lbs. pork loin or loin chops cut –also use arm steaks or chops
A) . in 4 thick slices, or chops, for the grill (bone-in chicken thighs with skin)
B). in 8 thinner slices or chops for the skillet (skinless, boneless chicken thighs)
2 tsp. minced bottled garlic
1 tsp. dried basil
1 medium onion –chopped
(1) 7 oz. jar roasted red peppers*
1 tsp. oil
1/8 tsp. lemon pepper
¼ cup White wine
2 Tbs. butter – for Method B
To make sauce: Microwave onion in oil with lemon pepper 1 ½ min. Drain peppers, blend with onion, basil, and garlic to a puree. Add the wine.
Method A: Put the sauce in a small pan. Grill meat. Warm the sauce as pork is finishing, pour over the meat and serve.
Method B: Melt the 2 Tbs. butter in a skillet over medium heat and brown meat on both sides. Pour sauce over the meat, reduce heat and cover. Simmer gently for 8-10 min., or longer until pork is very tender.
*Other varieties of roasted peppers or chilies can be added to taste as can hot sauce, but be aware if using Method B that the longer hot spices are cooked the hotter they become.
Pork Normandie: Serves 4
1 1/2 lb. pork cut in 1 inch cubes-or equal amount of round bone or shoulder chops-trimmed
1 Tbs. butter
1 cup chopped onion
1 clove mashed garlic
2 cups peeled, cored apples-cubed
2 cups apple juice or cider
1 1/2 Tbs. cornstarch
Salt and pepper
1/2 tsp. crushed rosemary
ground cinnamon
Dissolve the cornstarch in the juice. Sauté the meat in the butter until golden, remove to a casserole dish and sauté the onion and garlic in the pan until soft. Toss the pan drippings, vegetables, seasonings, rosemary and apples with the meat in the dish. Add the juice mix, garnish with the cinnamon. Cover and bake at 350 deg, for 1 3/4 hr.
PORK CHOPS WITH CARMELIZED ONIONS: Serves 4
A very mild dish, so the best substitutes would be turkey or chicken thighs.
4 fairly thick loin or center pork chops @ 2 lbs.
5 large onions sliced @ 3/8 of an inch thick
1 tsp. sugar
1 Tbs. minced garlic
@ 2 cups chicken broth = 1 can Condensed Broth
2 Tbs. butter
2 Tbs. oil
¼ cup Madera wine
Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat and brown chops well. Remove from pan, add oil and sauté onions with sugar until a golden color and translucent add garlic and cook 1 min more. Lower heat and return chops to pan, covering them with the onions. Add the broth, cover and cook 40 min. Plate chops, with onions over them. Add the Madera to the broth and deglaze the pan. Bring the liquid to a boil and simmer for 1 min. to reduce it slightly then pour over chops and serve.
EAST-WEST PORK BIRDS: Serves 4
4 lean slices center cut pork chops or pork cutlets (use turkey scaloppini)
2 tsp. ground fennel seed
1/3 tsp. cinnamon
½ tsp. garlic powder
1 ½ cups apple juice or more
1 envelope chicken or beef bouillon
2 cloves
1/3 cup thin celery slices
2 kale leaves-thick stalks removed
½ small onion thinly sliced
18 dried apricots- 12 julienned
Pound the pork to an even thinness. Cover the kale leaves in water and microwave 10—20 sec. to slightly wilt. Spread seasonings over meat slices. Pile, in order, celery, onions, julienned apricots and kale equally in center of meat slices. Roll meat and secure with skewers. Place meat rolls in a pan with bouillon, cloves, remaining 6 apricots and enough apple juice to come 1/3 up the sides. Bake at 350 deg. 1 ½ hrs. basting occasionally and maintaining liquid level. Remove cloves. Serve hot with juice.
PORK CHOPS BASIL: Serves 4
This is an old family favorite, and it also works well for roasts, consult charts for times per pound. It can be refrigerated for three days, or even frozen for two weeks, after the baking, so it can be made ahead and quickly ready on a rushed night. Veal chops or turkey cutlets may be substituted for the pork.
(8) ½ inch thick center pork chops well-trimmed (or boneless chicken thighs pounded to an even thinness)
½ cup flour
1 Tbs. garlic powder
2 Tbs. dried basil
½ a small can frozen orange juice concentrate or 1 cup apricot nectar
Water to dilute orange juice to equal 1 cup
¼ cup cream sherry (for a bolder taste use 1 jigger whiskey, rye or scotch)
Sprinkle half the garlic powder and half the basil in the bottom of an oven proof dish or pan that will hold the chops closely but not overlapping. Dredge the chops in the flour, by shaking in a plastic bag, one at a time, making sure they’re well coated. Place in pan, and sprinkle the rest of the garlic and basil over them. Cover and seal the pan with foil. Bake, preferably at 250 degrees for 2 hours, but acceptable at 350 degrees for one hour. Remove from oven, turn on broiler, and carefully lift foil. Mix orange juice with the sherry and just enough water to come almost to the top level of the chops in the pan, and pour over the chops. Broil until chops brown and the sauce thickens.
Pork with Cranberry-Wine Sauce: Serves 2 (Black Cherry jelly can replace the cranberry)
(4) ½ inch slices of roasted pork loin
1 Tbs. oil
1 small onion- diced or thinly sliced
½ cup whole berry cranberry sauce
¼ cup red wine
Fresh ground black pepper to taste – be generous
Sautee the onion in the oil until soft. Add the sauce, wine and pepper, stir to mix. Add the pork, cover and simmer on low for 5 min. until pork is heated through. Uncover for 3-5 min. more until sauce has thickened a bit. Serve at once.
Pork Paprika Over Pasta: Serves 2
Scant 4 oz. of pork cut in strips– I used the flap I cut from the roast, but leftover will do as well
1 Tbs. chopped parsley or
1Tbs.oil
1 medium onion thinly sliced
½ tsp. garlic powder
1 Tsp. paprika
Pinch cayenne pepper
2 Tbs. chopped parsley or 1 tsp. dried- divided
2 tsp. tomato paste
1Tbs.port or sherry
5oz. sour cream
4 oz. can sliced mushrooms or stems and pieces
½ lb. bow-tie pasta
1 tsp. butter
1 Tbs. poppy seeds
Sautee onion in the oil until soft about 5 min. Add the pork, seasonings and ½ the parsley to the pan and cook until meat is no longer pink. Add the wine and burn off alcohol about 30 sec. Reduce the heat to low, then add the sour cream, tomato paste and mushrooms. Stir only to heat through and do not allow to boil. Meanwhile cook pasta al dente. Drain and toss with the butter, poppy seeds and the rest of the parsley. Serve pasta topped with the pork mixture.
Thai Pork Kabobs: Serves 4
(8) 10 inch skewers-if wooden be sure to soak first
12 oz. trimmed, cubed pork
1/3 cup reduced sodium soy sauce
2 Tbs. EACH lime juice and water
½ tsp. hot chili oil*
2 cloves garlic-minced
1Tbs. minced fresh ginger
1 red Bell pepper in ½ inch chunks
1 onion in ½ inch chunks
2 cups hot cooked rice—preferably brown
Combine liquids and spices in a bowl-reserve ½ cup for dipping sauce. Cut pork lengthwise in half and crosswise into 4 inch slices, then into ½ inch strips. Marinate in liquid in bowl 2 hr. Alternately thread woven pork strips, onion and pepper on skewers, spray grill and cook, covered over medium coals or directly under broiler 6-8min.until pork is done. Serve on rice with dipping sauce.
*Alternatively microwave 1tsp.canola oil and 1 tsp. red pepper flakes 1 min.-let stand 5 min. to infuse
Pork Tagine: Serves 4
1 lb. pork cut in ¾ inch medallions
1 Tbs. flour
1 tsp. EACH ground cumin and paprika
¼ tsp. EACH red pepper and ground ginger
½ tsp. turmeric
1Tbs. olive oil
1 medium onion –chopped
3 cloves garlic-minced
2 ½ cups canned chicken broth – divided
1/3 cup raisins
1 cup quick cooking couscous
¼ cup EACH cilantro and slivered toasted almonds
Mix flour with spices in a bowl and toss pork-set aside. Sauté onion in oil over medium 5 min. add garlic and pork and cook until pork is no longer pink-about 5 min. stirring occasionally. Add ¾ cup broth and raisins and bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 7-9 min until pork is done, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile cook couscous in remaining broth according to directions. Spoon couscous onto plates, top with pork and garnish with cilantro and almonds.
