SALADS THAT MAKE THE MEAL
I’ve been talking about moving the salad onto the dinner plate for two, no three years now, and making it part of the entrée. The idea stems from our desire for a healthier, lighter diet, relying more on whole foods and less on processed ones for all our meals and snacks. The concept is particularly well illustrated by this new type of dinner salad which is a major portion of the entrée and so easy to put together especially now at the height of produce season.
These salads differ in preparation and presentation because we want to maintain the identity of the fresh ingredients. So we cut them in larger pieces like wedges and indicate when possible the shape of the whole item by slicing not dicing and arranging in layers. The flavor is a medley of individual bites of contrasting or complimentary tastes, rather than a single one which unifies the whole dish by mixing chopped ingredients. Presentations are casual, even rustic rather than scripted. A photo might be captioned “Suggested Appearance” not “Approved Plating”.
I believe there are three roots to this movement; first, an awareness of maintaining good health and the important role food plays; second, improved transportation, refrigeration and dehydration methods free us from depending on ‘seasonal produce’ and open windows on the global marketplace even in the most rural supermarkets; third, growing familiarity not just with different cuisines but their ingredients as well. Experimenting with those ingredients and finding new uses for them has resulted in many ‘Fusion Cuisines’ and made cooking and eating fun adventures.
Ingredients crossing cuisines isn’t new, herbs and spices like cilantro and ginger have figured in both Eastern and Western ones for centuries. Stone fruits, native to Asia, are the base for traditional recipes in many cuisines. What is new is these products are being used in a wider variety of ways. Realizing that tomatoes, avocados and olives are fruits, accepted in serious salads for years, we are now letting other fruits, long favored as accompaniments to meat, join them and not just as accents, but as key players.
The changed construction of the salads requires a change in dressings. Lighter ones which complement the flavors are preferred and a drizzle of oil subtly unites those flavors but DIY is often recommended. Depending on the contents, many regular types of vinaigrette are a bit strong because fruits are acidic themselves. The touch of acid zing in the dressing is best delivered by the addition of citrus juice. Lemon and lime are regulars, but orange, grapefruit and other juices are often appropriate.
If I’m sautéing the meat, I frequently use the pan juice as dressing base or a bit of broth or the juice of a fruit ingredient, adding oil, citrus juice and/or zest and more of the herbs of the dish. Fresh herbs are another plus, the leaves used as actual ingredients, can really add bulk. One herb I’ve come to depend on in all salads is mint. Its flavor merges with anything and adds zip, losing its own distinct identity.
One thing is certain, heavy, thick dressings are out. If a creamy one is called for it will be based on sour cream or yogurt. Heavy cream goes back to desserts and mayonnaise is still prized but as a spread. Replacing them are not ‘substitutes’ but actual dressing recipes. I remember my first dinner in France. I was served a plate of what looked like gleaming Bibb lettuce leaves and was surprised in the first bite by the most vibrant tasting Blue Cheese dressing I’d ever eaten. It was totally invisible, except as a sheen on the leaves, but oh so good! The recipe, a classic in France, is a good example of ‘structured’ DIY. It follows a definite procedure but adjusts for the occasion. Simply dissolve about 1 Tbs. blue cheese in about ½ cup olive oil, and fresh lemon juice. All measurements are to taste, as dominant with the plain lettuce, or to compliment a specific combination of ingredients.
For the ‘creamy’ dressings based on sour cream or yogurt, oil is usually omitted, but citrus zest and/or juice, herbs, seasonings, and often, a touch of seasoned vinegar is added. Again, the mixture depends on the composition of the salad but the list of probable additives remains generally stable, nuts, seeds, spices etc.
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The important thing to remember is that everything is tailor-made to each meal and unless recorded in detail can be replicated but not repeated. Part of the emphasis on freshness, and fun of these meals is the fact that they are unique to the moment and following guidelines is much easier than the demands of a specific recipe. The only way to ‘mess-up’ is to over season the dressing but if you proceed cautiously, consistently tasting you’ll be fine and soon it becomes second nature to whip up a meal in no time.
Actually, these salad dinners are a win-win solution with autumn and busy winter schedules nearing. The fresh ingredients can be prepped and waiting, chilled in water and a healthy dinner can be on the table in short order with very little effort or mess. Get in some practice now when produce is in and by fall you’ll be an old hand with ideas for ready combinations from your fridge at your fingertips.
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