Side by side
Fathers’ Day already, and with the warm weather, it’s usually another occasion to cook out. After acting as busboy, dishwasher and sous chef for three generations of men in my family, while they grilled, I’ve concluded that for most men, grilling is less about cooking than it is about enjoying the company and the setting, and they have the right idea. They’re willing to watch over the starring entrée, but don’t want to fret over the sides, especially with guests present. Those are better magically appearing on the table, but there’s no reason they can’t be ready in advance so those who do make them can relax and have fun too.
We all know that sides have a lot of duties to perform. They have to be complimentary in flavor and texture to each other, to the entrée, to the occasion and, often, to the season. They should balance the meal, nutritionally and aesthetically. If that isn’t enough, we also expect them to provide interest, and possibly, amusing variety. Now, we want to eat outdoors, and we ask even more of them. They have to be able to be prepared in advance and to remain at room temperature for at least an hour, without spoiling. Fortunately, many of them are up to the task.
Happily, side recipes, like soups, exist in infinite variety, and more are constantly created according to the ingenuity of those making them. Generally, sides require minimum effort, allow for any number of ingredient combinations, and welcome leftovers as readily as gourmet items. Old recipes can be given new twists, and new ones devised to fit a need or occasion. Depending on the ingredients and presentation, sides can range from rustic to elegant, from casual to formal. Several of the ones I’ve included here can do both, just plate and serve them accordingly. The fact is, sides don’t have to be expensive to look that way, and are an economizing tool, by providing a way to temptingly use leftovers, or combine reasonable priced products appetizingly.
As with soups, some sides are definitely winter fare, and some, like aspics, are intended for summer consumption, but the vast majority can be served at any season and in a wide temperature range, making them ideal for outdoor dining. An advantage to sides is that they are easy to cook, and far more practical, and interesting when home- made, especially familiar ones like potato salad. Add the fact that many are better made in advance, allowing the flavors to meld, thus simplifying meal prep, and sides can really highlight an occasion at minimum cost. Just compare the price of potato chips to potatoes. To illustrate this point, I’m including a few recipes in different categories, which are safe to make ahead and won’t spoil in warm weather. Let the Sous Chef enjoy the day as much as the Grill Master!
SWEET POTATO SALAD WITH LIME: 4-6 servings (courtesy of Cusine Magazine)
4 large sweet potatoes (or yams) – try to pick ones of equal size and tubular shape
1/3 cup lime juice
1 Tbs. minced ginger
1 Tbs. jalapeno pepper seeded – jarred will do
2 Tbs. brown sugar
Pinch salt
¼ cup canola oil
2Tbs. chopped fresh mint
2 Tbs. lime zest
Honey roasted peanuts OR wasabi coated cashews- both roughly chopped
Make vinaigrette first. Blend lime juice, ginger, sugar, pepper and salt. Slowly pour in oil to emulsify it.
Cover the sweet potatoes in water, cutting them in half to fir the pot, if necessary, and boil until just done, about 15-18 mins. Test for doneness. Do not over do. Cool, peel off skin and cut in ½ inch slices .In a wide bowl or dish, pour the vinaigrette over the potatoes gently turning the slices to coat them well and chill for several hours, overnight or longer, if possible. Mix the lime zest and mint to make a gremolata to sprinkles on before serving. Pass the nuts, but don’t forget them. They really add flavor.
PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH POTATO SALAD – SERVES 4 (I take some short cuts here)
4 medium potatoes – not bakers
1 medium onion
2 slices bacon OR 4 slices turkey bacon Or equal amount of turkey ham
2 Tbs. cider vinegar-or to taste
1 Tbs. sugar- or to taste
1 tsp. canola oil and more if needed
Cut the potatoes into bite sized pieces and boil until just tender, about 8-10mins. Drain and rinse.
Meanwhile, peel and cut the onion in half lengthwise, then across in ¼ inch slices. Microwave them in a safe dish with 1 tsp oil for 2mins. Cook the bacon in the pot used for the potatoes. If using turkey, add about 2Tbs. oil to infuse with essence. Drain the bacon on towels. Add the onions to the pot with all liquid. Using a wooden spoon, begin gently stirring over medium-low heat, adding the vinegar , sugar and more oil if needed to taste, to make a sweet-sour slightly smoky dressing. Add potatoes and toss gently. Allow flavors to meld for at least an hour, refrigerate if to be held longer. Before serving, stir in crumbled bacon, reheat in the microwave or bring to room temperature. Serve hot in winter.
SPAGHETTI TORTE– (Serves 4) An old lunch box favorite for Italian farmers, it’s gone uptown. This can be made with leftovers , but thinner noodles tend make the slices crumble when cut.
4 portions, according to package directions, of regular spaghetti cooked and drained
1 cup plain tomato sauce
Optional seasonings-herbs, salt, pepper to taste
Oil Or cooking spray
2 eggs
Mix the pasta, sauce, seasonings and eggs in a bowl. Coat a regular fry pan with oil or spray a non-stick one. Pour the spaghetti into the pan and slowly cook over medium-low heat until the center is set, the sides begin to pull away from the pan and the bottom is browned. Invert onto a plate and sprinkle with cheese while still warm enough to slightly melt the cheese. Chill overnight. Cut in wedges to serve.
Variation: This recipe also works well with Macaroni. Top with sharp cheese.
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PASTA-VEGETABLESALAD: Optional amount of servings
Required number of portions according to package of sturdy, shaped pasta such as shells or rigatoni, cooked al dente and drained.
½ cup each per portion broccoli flowerettes and sliced carrots parboiled to crisp tender
Optionally sliced ripe olives and/or capers.
A vinaigrette dressing, including Caesar, bottled or home-made
Gently toss all the dry ingredients together with only enough dressing to moisten. Add salt and pepper if needed. Chill for at least an hour before serving.
RATATOUILLI : At least 6 servings
1 medium eggplant cut in 2 inch chunks
2 large zucchini in ¼ inch slices
2 medium-large onions quartered
2-3 bell peppers in 1 inch pieces
(1) 28oz can whole tomatoes with juice
Garlic to taste – fresh, jarred or powdered
(1) 8oz can mushrooms- stems and pieces (optional)
2 Tbs. canola oil
Sauté the onions and peppers in 2 Tbs. oil in a large pot over medium heat for 3 mins. Add the tomatoes, mushrooms, garlic and zucchini. Simmer for 5 mins. Add the eggplant. Continue simmering until vegetables are tender, about 10 mins .Adjust seasonings Refrigerate if made ahead. Bring to room temperature before serving. This keeps for several days.
Variations: Leftovers are great meals with rice cooked in as it reheats and sliced hot dogs, cooked chicken or beef added to make a whole meal. To give it more body as a side for an outdoor meal or buffet, cook some large shell pasta in it.
GREEN VEGETABLES, such as whole beans, asparagus spears, split broccoli crowns, even Brussels sprouts, are wonderful simply cooked to crisp tender, drained and introduced to a vinaigrette while still warm then allowed to marinate. They can be garnished with toasted nuts or sesame seeds, chopped egg, green onions or fresh herbs.
TOMATOES are a gift, especially when fresh in summer. In TOMATOES AND BEETS the large ones are wonderful peeled and fanned alternately with peeled large beets, all marinated in a Balsamic vinaigrette. Pennsylvania Dutch Tomatoes feature the beefsteak variety peeled, thickly sliced, layered alternately in a bowl with ¼ tsp. of cider or red wine vinegar, pinches of sugar, salt and pepper and marinated for several hours. BASIL TOMATOES uses any tomatoes cut into bite size pieces, even cherry or grape ones halved. Just toss them with chopped fresh basil,( dried can be used), garlic,( powdered, jarred or fresh,) salt to taste and only enough olive oil to coat. Then chill and allow the flavors to meld for a couple of hours. A great variation is the addition of cooked cut green beans. TOMATO AND WATERMELON is another good combination. Again use vinaigrette to marinate -one of the fruit based dressing’s works well, like raspberry, and peas add a quirky crunch. Of course tomatoes can always be served by themselves.
BEANS are one of the most ancient foods, existing in every culture and cuisine, but aside from certain classic dishes, always considered somewhat bottom shelf until their nutritional value and versatility has recently been fully explored. Now they’re stars in the food world, with good reason. They’re easy to work with, have a wide variety of uses, make great impromptu stand-bys and are good for you! To prove this point I devised the dish listed below from what was in the cupboard and leftovers in less than ½ hr. The leftover ingredients are marked with an*
TWO BEAN SALAD-Serves 4
(1) 15oz.can pinto beans-drained and rinsed (black, white, kidney or black-eyed peas would do)
½ a medium onion – diced*
½ a green bell pepper- diced*
½ stalk of celery-diced*
½ cup canned diced tomato-drained, juice reserved*
1 cup frozen cut green beans cooked to crisp tender
Kernels from 1 ear cooked corn*
1tsp. whole grain mustard
1/8 tsp Worchestershire sauce
2tsp. Olive oil
3 drops Tabasco
Pinch Kosher salt
1tsp cumin
1tbs cider vinegar
Put first 7 ingredients in a salad bowl. Mix remaining ingredients in a small bowl with reserved tomato juice. When fully incorporated, pour over the vegetables, toss gently and chill for several hours, tossing occasionally to marinate well. Serve cold or at room temperature.