SPRING ROASTS FOR EASTER and PASSOVER

A roast makes any meal special, which is why they’ve been linked to event dinners probably since the cave men realized throwing one big hunk of meat on the fire was easier than several smaller ones when the clan gathered. Modern freezing and transportation have changed our menus though. Our holiday choices used to be seasonally specific, now with so many options in the markets, preference is key.

Early winter and late fall holidays naturally paired with roasts. The harvest was in, hunting season was over, the larder was filled and people, satisfied with their labors were looking forward to a period of relative inactivity. They were more than willing to kick back and savor a big dinner featuring a hearty roast.

This book Spring_Roasts_for_Easter_and_Passover focuses on the fact that spring holidays have always been different. People are filled with energy and anticipation, looking forward to the bounty of summer and being able to plan outdoor activities and projects. They crave fresh foods, tender greens and fruit, not the solid fare of winter and they want lighter, leaner meats and/or cuts. Since animals are at their slimmest in spring, after months of foraging or rationed, stored fodder, plus it’s the birthing season for most, traditionally, the roasting choices were chiefly domestic, sustainable poultry, chickens, ducks, game hens and squab (doves) that is until recently.

As mentioned above, things are different now. In addition, our tastes have changed and we welcome the many options in the market but our preferences concerning cuts and preparations have altered too, especially in planning dinners for the spring holidays. Beef is welcome, but in cuts like fillet mignon, London broil and a seasoned brisket. Pork too is acceptable, as loin, tenderloin or the elegant chop display of a crown roast filled with steamed spring vegetables. Lamb is making a comeback as a mature animal because it’s sustainable, but the legs are larger and chops in racks are becoming favorites. Poultry is still popular and turkey has joined the line-up but as a Hotel Breast not a full bird. Ham, cured over the winter has always been popular too.

With so many options it’s hard to choose because the selections cover a wide price range as well as offering a wide variety of possible presentations and the book offers suggestions. On the other hand, if you feel comfortable with your own method of roasting, say a chicken, there are ways to perk it up for spring.

• Rub the roast with oil and sprinkle inside and out with a dried herb of choice
• Instead of potatoes, roast whole carrots, onions or lightly blanched fennel quarters around the roast. About 40 min. before it’s done, add the vegetables with a bit of canned, condensed broth, baste them a time or two.
• Forget thickening gravy. Use the rest of the broth to deglaze the roasting pan at the end, adding a little wine or herbs to make a sauce to pass at table.
• Try one of the easy stuffings below. I suggest the rice because it’s lighter than bread. The first 2 recipes can be made ahead, frozen and thawed for use on the day

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In general for spring meals, I like to go easy on the carbs and serve several vegetable dishes, including a leafy salad with fruit. If my group has some big or growing appetites, muffins, especially fruit ones or focaccia with a flavored topping are great fillers. Those who want to eat lean can opt out. Remember, along with summer, people are also thinking of bathing suits.

The book doesn’t have recipes for beef, because the cooking methods for the cuts favored at this season are straightforward. I do, however, have a recipe for seasoned brisket below. The same rule applies to the popular pork cuts. Here again, I’m listing a recipe for stuffed pork loin below as an example. The book does contain recipes for veal, which though not in supermarkets is still available in specialty butcher shops and recipes for veal and pork are interchangeable. Also, the section on recipes for special cuts can be applied to handling the same cut with different meats. There are also lots of recipes for sides and desserts.

Have a happy holiday and take a look at the book. Even if you don’t follow a recipe, you might find some useful tips. You’ll find it on our bookshelf priced at $3.99.

RECIPES- Stuffing with egg tends to puff and rice spills out. An easy way to keep the stuffing in a bird is to flatten a piece of bread with a can or rolling pin to compact it and place it over the cavity opening secured with a couple of poultry pins or skewers.

Apricot and Herb Stuffing: Yield 3 cups-Adapted from Memorable Roasts published by Konemann
1 cup chopped dried apricots
1 onion chopped
1 stalk celery chopped
¾ cup raisins
1 Tbs. dried parsley
¼ tsp. EACH dried sage, thyme, rosemary
About ¼ cup milk*
3 cups fresh breadcrumbs*
1 egg beaten*
Mix all the ingredients adding just enough milk to hold it loosely together and seal in a freezer bag or covered container. To use, thaw and stuff bird, cook as directed.
*Replace these ingredients with 3 cups cooked rice—suggestion brown rice

Walnut and Ham Stuffing; Yield 3 cups- Adapted from Memorable Roasts published by Konemann
1cup finely chopped ham
½ cup chopped walnuts
½ cup chopped mushrooms
¼ cup chopped parsley
About ¼ cup milk*
2 cups chopped breadcrumbs*
1 egg beaten*
Mix all the ingredients adding just enough milk to hold it loosely together and seal in a freezer bag or covered container. To use, thaw and stuff bird, cook as directed.
*Replace these ingredients with 3 cups cooked rice—suggestion brown rice

Fruit Stuffing for Duck: Yield about 3 cups
2 apples, peeled, cored and diced
½ navel orange sectioned + 1Tbs. slivered orange peel OR (1) 8oz. can mandarin oranges, drained
About ¼ cup orange juice or milk
1/3 cup raisins
1 small onion chopped
1 stalk celery chopped
1 tsp. dried sage
3 slices raisin bread toasted-torn in1 inch pieces
Mix all the ingredients adding just enough liquid to hold it together. Stuff bird and cook as directed

Brisket Bordelise: Serves 6
5 lb. brisket of beef
2 bay leaves-crumbled
2 tsp. dried thyme
2 tsp. dried marjoram
4 whole cloves
2 cups condensed, canned beef broth + more if necessary
4 Tbs. butter
Salt and pepper-to taste
Flour
6 onions
12 carrots
2 fennel bulbs quartered
¼ cup red wine-optional
Dust the meat with the flour, shake off excess. Press ½ the dried herbs on the bottom of the roast, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place it in a pan and press the rest of the herbs and seasonings on the top. Add the cloves to the pan and 1 cup broth; cover and roast in a 350 deg. oven about 1 hr. Add the vegetables with the wine and ½ cup broth and cook, uncovered 35-40 min., basting often, adding more broth if necessary to maintain liquid level in pan. Remove the meat and vegetables to a plate. Remove the cloves and deglaze the pan, adding the butter and the last ½ cup broth or more if needed. Carve the meat in slices and pass the pan juices at table.

Spinach Stuffed Pork Loin: Serves 6
3 lb. boneless pork loin
(1) 4 oz. can mushroom stems and pieces
½ cup diced shallots
1 garlic clove-minced
2 Tbs. brandy
1 Tbs. butter
(1) 10 oz. box frozen, chopped spinach-thawed
1 Tbs. oil
Salt and pepper to taste
2 cups condensed canned chicken broth + more if needed
¼ cup white wine
Mix the broth and the wine. Butterfly the pork by lengthwise slicing almost through. Open it like a book and make similar slices down each half. Cover with plastic wrap and pound the meat to an even thinness. Saute the shallots and mushrooms in the butter until golden, remove to a bowl. Add the oil to the pan and toss the spinach over with the garlic, remove to the bowl with the shallots and add seasonings. Save any pan juices and add to the broth mix. Spread the vegetable mixture on the meat to within a about an inch of each edge. Roll the meat around the stuffing, starting with a long side and secure with string. Pour over about ½ cup of broth mix and cook in a 350 deg. oven about 1 hr.45 min. >2 hrs. adding more broth mix as necessary. Deglaze the pan with the rest of the broth mix and pass at table.