Still in the soup
The morning after I wrote my last posting on summer soups, I turned on the T.V. to see Chef Mark Bittman recommending chilled soup as a dinner entrée on a hot day, and realized my idea might be in sync with a trend. In case it is, I decided to write the first of a few planned sequels right away, rather than wait until later in the season, as intended. The more you know, the easier it will be to take advantage of fresh produce as it comes to market, and to tap into all the resultant sales on related products that follow a trend. For this, they would be broths, herbs, seasonings, condiments, some dairy products like sour cream, cream, and shredded cheese, as well as salad dressings and breads; anything that goes with, or into soup, and that opens a whole world of possibilities.
As I mentioned last week, few branches of cooking offer as much variety, chance for successful experimentation or opportunity to show culinary individuality, as soup. Last March, I was given a book of 400 soups. I’ve been comparing the recipes to those in my other books, especially over the past two weeks, and have yet to find a duplication, nor do I expect to, even among the common favorites. A Danish friend recalls with fondness Friday night dinners. The entree even had a special name, which I can’t pronounce, but was a soup made of the leftovers from the previous week’s meals. All were good, some memorable, the more so for the fact that the recipes were never recorded and couldn’t be replicated. Every Friday became a happily anticipated adventure, and that is the very essence of the culinary pursuit.
In choosing the soups for this week, I leaned toward ones with more protein which would, perhaps, be more acceptable as full dinners. Also, I picked recipes that could be offered in hot weather, with no ill effects. I did have to shop for supplies this time. With some ingredients, like the chicken, I bought larger quantities than needed for just this and I made only 2 servings, not 4. Still, a rough estimate of my expenditure tops out at around $15.00, for all five soups. Being me, I had to experiment a bit with the ingredients, but stuck to the basic directions.
The first two soups require little cooking and are easy to make. I did no cooking for the Avacado Soup, because I used leftover chicken roaster, but chicken, salmon even shrimp can be used interchangeably in either soup and require short boiling times. The Cucumber Soup was good, however I prefer the cooked base of the one from last week. It seemed to have more of the vegetable’s flavor and a smoother texture. I’d like to try that with a bit of yogurt and garnish the salmon with the sour cream, dill and chives. Pappa al Pomodoro became a favorite of mine when I lived in Florence, Italy. The Italians thick slice the bread and tear it into large chunks—1 ½ by 2 inches. The secret to the taste is to really brown the bread in the oil. I used canned diced tomatoes and they were perfect for the task. I suggest serving it cool rather than cold, because the oil tends to congeal, and with a sprinkle of Parmesan .Skipping ahead, the Gazpachio recipe is one I’ve had for years and love. It differs from others I’ve seen in that it contains no bread and isn’t pureed. I find the first dulls the flavor as a whole, and the second blends them into one. In this recipe, with the vegetables in fine dice, the flavors meld into compatibility, yet retain individuality as eaten. If allowed to rest overnight, the different textures become complimentary as well.
The Spinach and Rice Soup is the only one I altered. I wanted to jazz up the taste a bit, because it seemed it would be rather bland. I made an 8oz box of Rice Jambalaya mix according to directions. Then I simmered a 10oz box of chopped spinach, thawed, for 5mins. in 2 cups chicken broth, adding 2Tbs. of Teriyaki Sauce, !Tbs. Soy Sauce and 1 clove garlic, chopped at the end. I let them both cool, then added 2oz of julienned boiled deli ham, to each. For presentation, I spooned the rice on one side of a deep bowl, and the spinach on the other. I poured the broth over them and sprinkled the top with grated Parmesan. I think it would be better with leftover baked ham, and would like to try other rice mixes with appropriate meats and cheeses, but it’s definitely a “keeper.” I can even picture it hot in the winter with sliced hot dogs, ready in the fridge to be heated, and maybe to let the cheese melt on top.
I discuss making these soups to show you how easy it is to make a soup “your own” and to encourage you to try a few for summer dinners. You’ll soon see how simple they are to prepare, especially in advance, because they hold for days, how economical they are, how practical for any occasion, even picnics, because they don’t spoil. Above all, you’ll find how addictive they can become as a diversion to a cook and as a best friend to a busy meal provider with limited time.
AVACADO CHICKEN SOUP – 4 Servings
4 cups chicken broth
2 cups diced avocado
¼ cup lime juice
Salt and pepper to taste
2 cups cooked chicken meat or 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts and/or thighs
Lime zest and sour cream for garnish
If the meat isn’t cooked, poach it in the broth for @ 10 mins. Then cool both and strain the broth. Cut the meat into large chunks. Puree the avocado in the broth, season with salt and pepper. Divide the soup between 4 bowls and pile ¼ the meat in the center of each. Garnish with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkle of lime zest.
CUCUMBER SOUP WITH SALMON – 4 Servings
3 medium cucumbers
1 cup chilled vegetable or chicken broth
1 ¼ cups plain Greek yogurt
½ cup sour cream
1 Tbs. EACH chopped dill and chives
16 oz. cooked salmon fillet, skinned and cut into 8 slices OR (4) 5oz portions
Salt and pepper to taste
Cut 3 of the cucumbers lengthwise and seed them. Puree with the next 3 ingredients. Chop the remaining cucumber into small dice and toss in a bowl with the herbs. Chill everything well. Pour the soup into bowls, place 1/4 of the salmon meat in the center of each bowl, and garnish with the herb salsa.
PAPPA al POMODORO –(Tomato-Bread Soup) – Serves 4
6 Tbs. olive oil
2 garlic cloves- chopped
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1 ½ cups cubed stale bread – preferably a rustic artesian bread
1 ½ lbs. ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped OR (1) 28oz. diced tomatoes
5 cups beef broth OR juice from canned tomatoes plus broth to equal this amount.
3 Tbs. chopped fresh basil or 1 Tbs. dried.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Cook the bread in 4 Tbs. of oil until golden, remove and reserve. Add the rest of the oil, onion and garlic to the pot and cook until the onion softens. Stir in the herbs, tomatoes, bread and seasonings. Stir over medium heat for about 15 mins. then add stock. Bring just to a boil, lower the heat and simmer for about 20 mins. Remove from the heat and mash with a fork to a rough, but uniform consistency. Adjust seasoning. Allow to stand for at least 10 mins. for the flavors to meld. In summer, then cool for another 10 mins. but, be careful, these flavors dull with chilling.
SPINACH AND RICE SOUP – Serves 4 to 6
3 Tbs. oil
1 medium onion – in fine dice
2 garlic cloves – chopped
(1) 10 oz box of frozen, chopped spinach –drained liquid reserved
½ cup + 2 Tbs. long grain rice, suitable for risottos Or 1 box rice mix, flavor optional
Pinch crushed red pepper flakes
Salt and pepper to taste
5 ½ cups vegetable or beef broth, including reserved spinach liquid. Or amount required by package directions, balance held in reserve.
1 cup diced cooked ham or other meat-@ 6oz. deli sliced is fine(optional)
Grated cheese for garnish
Cook the onion in the oil until soft, add the garlic and cook 3 mins. more. Add the rice and coat well with the oil. Add 3 cups of stock and simmer until rice is just about done 10 to 15 min. depending on type of rice used, adding more liquid as needed. Add seasonings, stir in spinach, meat,, if using, and remaining reserved liquid. Simmer until rice is tender. Add additional liquid for a thinner consistency. Serve at room temperatue garnished with shaved Parmesan , Romano or Pecorino cheese.
GAZPACHIO – Serves 6
4 cups diced tomato – canned is fine
1 ½ cups diced green pepper
1 garlic clove – diced
¾ cup diced onion
½ cup thinly sliced cucumber- soaked for 10 mins in salt water and rinsed
½ cup lemon juice
¼ cup olive oil
1 Tbs. paprika
2 cups beef stock- Preferably canned consommé
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
(Optional)1 cup cooked roast beef in julienne strips—deli is fine
Combine all ingredients, except cucumber and meat. Allow to stand for 1hr. stirring often. Add cucumber and chill for several hours. Add meat and serve. Optionally garnish with a sprig of suitable fresh herbs, suggestions are parsley, cilantro, chives.