SUMMER STONE FRUITS

The stone fruits of summer have more than their peak season in common. Now grown in nearly every country, they trace back over 3000 yrs.to Asian origins. Talk about all stars! However, they have another common bond. They are among the few produce items which are still strictly seasonal, so take advantage of them while in stores or prepare to wait a year.

In keeping with our changed tastes in 2020, I wanted to present a different take on them. These recipes are geared to fit three requirements. First, they had to be easy or fun to prepare especially in the heat of August most needing little or no cooking. Second, they had to fit the current preference for casual, even rustic presentations. Third, they had to be ‘off the beaten track.’ I didn’t want a repetition of the usual shortcakes, pies and mousse. If you want to explore some traditional recipes go to Aug.9, 2018 and Aug.16, 2018, Sept. 12, 2019, and Aug. 31, 2017. Even the familiar recipes below are new twists on the old standards.

I also had one other goal in mind. With the current interest in eating whole, fresh, naturally prepared foods, I wanted to keep these recipes mainly focused on raw fruits but I found this difficult with apricots. In other countries they are seen in bowls to be eaten as a quick snack, but here they are mainly found in stores and recipes, dried. This inspired me to seek recipes for fresh apricots but I found few of them, even in my oldest books or James Beard’s American Cookery, which is full of unique recipes.

Apparently, apricots preserve so well that the majority were ’put up’ for the winter months and the recipes served then. I determined to find uses for fresh apricots and, being summer, I wanted recipes which didn’t take hours in a hot kitchen. Quick, fresh and easy was my goal. I hope I’ve succeeded. Below is a sampling.

Finally, stone fruits have an advantage over others. The late and end of season offerings cook as well or better than the prime. So these desserts can carry into fall, becoming nostalgic because they mark definitive endings, both to the summer and to its luscious stone fruit, although the days can be just as warm and sunny as those in summer. The desserts featuring these fruits, serve to remind us that their season too, is past. These desserts symbolize the closing of the book on summer and all its special pleasures, for another year because unlike melons, berries and citrus fruits, stone fruits aren’t available all year. So enjoy them while they’re still here.

RECIPES
One of the best things about working with summer stone fruits is that they are so open to flavoring suggestions as well as being interchangeable in most recipes. Here are 3 delicious examples of dishes which work with any of them. They can be served with the fruit freshly sliced, or for a more finished presentation, with a quick conserve.

Quick Conserve: Per 1lb. fruit-place freshly sliced fruit in a bowl with ½ Tbs. lemon juice and ½ Tbs. sugar per pound. Allow to stand at room temperature about 20 min. until it forms a syrup.
Wonton Fruit Cups: Serves 12
24 wonton wrappers
2 Tbs. melted butter
1/3 cup fruit preserves—flavor complimentary to fruit filling
1 cup lemon yogurt or instant pudding-pie filling, flavor optional
1 ½ cups diced fruit
Line a 12 cup or (2) 6 cup muffin pans with a wonton wrapper. Brush with ½ the butter. Place a second wrapper diagonally across the first and brush with remaining butter. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven 10 min. or until golden. Remove and cool. Spread 1 tsp. fruit preserves in each cup. Fold yogurt or pudding with 1 cup fruit and spoon into cups. Garnish with remaining fruit.

Shortcake
1 peach or nectarine, 2 plums or 3 apricots per portion-sliced
Sugar
Whipped topping
Almond extract-optional
1 recipe buttermilk drop biscuits, sponge cake shells or slices of pound or angel food cake
Sprinkle the fruit with sugar and a drop of almond extract if using. Let stand until glossy and moist. Chill. Build dessert as for any shortcake in layers starting with pastry, fruit and topping.

Stone Fruit Melba Cake: This is made with any unfrosted cake, plain, angel food even dollar store pound cake
1 lb. unfrosted white cake made or sliced into 2 layers
8 oz. whipped topping
8 oz. cream cheese
1 tsp. vanilla
Conserve made from 4 lb. fruit
Melba Sauce-see NOTE*
Mix vanilla, cheese and topping until very smooth. Spread ½ mixture on one layer, top with ½ the conserve. Cover with the second layer and, reserving 2 Tbs. spread with remaining cheese mix and all conserve. Pour sufficient Melba Sauce over and garnish with mounded reserved cheese mixture and a sprig of fresh mint or a few raspberries.

Melba Sauce: Yield 2 cups
2 cups raspberries
½ cup confectioners’ sugar
1 Tbs. lemon juice
¼ cup apple juice
Puree all ingredients, strain id a smooth finish is desired. Keep excess chilled. This sauce is available in store

PLUMS
Plum Rustica, or Galette, is the easiest type of pie to make. This is a short version of the recipe from my book Dinners with Joy:
Crust if making: mix
1 ½ cups flour, optionally substitute whole wheat pastry flour for half the regular.
¼ cup sugar
1/3 cup shortening
3 to 4 Tbs. ICE water to form dough
1/3cup chopped toasted almonds or walnuts-optional

Combine sugar and flour. Cut butter into flour mix until texture is like gravel. Add water and form a dough ball. Chill 20 min. then roll to a 12 inch round. Transfer to a parchment or foil covered cookie sheet, or a pizza pan for baking. Optionally, sprinkle 1/3 cup chopped, toasted nuts over the bottom for plums, a sprinkle of cinnamon works for the other fruits.
Depending on size, fill the center with a 1 lb. to 1 ½ lb. fruit, leaving a 2 to 3 inch margin. (Apples pears and peaches should be peeled and sliced. Plums and apricots can be halved and stoned.)
Dot fruit with ½ Tbs. butter. Sprinkle with 1 Tbs. cornstarch, 1 Tbs. sugar and ½ tsp. lemon juice.
Carefully fold edges of pastry up around filling, pleating as you go. The edges can be brushed with cream or egg white and sprinkled with sugar as decoration. Bake at 400 degrees for 30 min. Cool on sheet; preferably on a wire rack. This can be moved to a plate for serving, but as the name implies, it’s a “rustic” or casual pastry, and I like to bake it and serve it in a pizza pan.

NOTE: While still hot, combine ½ cup melted red currant jelly and 1 Tbs. Grand Mariner and pour over the top.

My Easy Plum Sherbet: Serves 4
(1) 30 oz. can of purple plums, pits removed, OR any other canned fruit
Pinch ginger-OR cinnamon for other stone fruits
Process the fruit to a puree, adding only enough syrup to get the proper texture. I use all of it with plums, but not with pears. (Save any extra syrup to flavor a granita.) Place the puree in a sealed container, freeze for 1 hr. and stir well. Repeat until entire container is of equal texture. If it seems too icy or clumpy, reprocess and repeat freezing procedure. Keep sealed in the freezer. Keeps as long as a commercial product.
NOTE: This can be made into an elegant dessert by punching a hole in the center of a scoop with a wooden spoon handle and filling it with a complimentary flavored liqueur.
Can also be made with fresh, roasted peach halves.

Plum Cake: Serves 8-From Landoll’s Creative Cooking Desserts
1 ½ cups stoned plum halves
¼ cup shortening
¾ cup sugar
2 eggs
½ cup flour
½ cup whole wheat flour
1 tsp. baking powder
salt
¼ cup milk
1tsp.vanilla
½ cup chopped pecans
¼ cup brown sugar
½ tsp. cinnamon
Grease and flour a 9 inch square baking pan. Cream butter and sugar, add eggs beating until smooth. Mix flours, salt and baking powder; add alternately with milk to egg mix, beating well. Stir in vanilla. Pour into pan and arrange fruit over top. Combine garnish ingredients and scatter over the fruit. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven 30 min. Cool in pan.

Roaster Plum Stuffed Chicken Rolls: Serves 4-From 500 3 Ingredient Recipes by Robert and Carol Hildebrand
3 plums-stoned and halved
2 ½ lb. skinless, boneless chicken breasts, with lobes
1 medium red onion-diced
¼ cup olive oil-divided + 1 tsp.
Roast the plums, tossed in 2 Tbs. oil with salt and pepper to taste in a 350 deg. oven 15-20 min. Cook the onions in the remainder of the oil over low heat in a covered pan until soft. Chop plums and add to onions-cool. Pound the chicken breasts between sheets of plastic wrap until each is a uniform thickness of about 1 inch. Place ¼ of the plum filling down the center of each breast and roll like a burrito, folding the ends over first. Lay the breasts seam-side down in a pan, brush with the 1 tsp. oil sprinkle with salt and pepper and roast at 350.deg.25-35min.until done. Allow to rest 5-7 min. and serve sliced into 4-5 rounds each.

PEACHES/NECTARINES –These are interchangeable in most recipes since nectarines are actually a smooth-skinned species of peach. However, they don’t skin easily as a peach does so choose the recipe with care. The Peach Pizza would tolerate the skin but not the meringue pie. Peeling them is a breeze. Just dip them in boiling water for about 10-15 sec., run them under cold water and the skin peels off like a tomato. If they could stand a bit of softening, leave them in the water a minute or two.

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NOTE: Peaches are wonderful accompaniments to any poultry dish. Grill halves along with the meat in summer or broil them, fresh or canned, sprinkled with cinnamon in the oven. They are great roasted for just about anything but eating out of hand, even pie fillings. They carmelize and get a depth of flavor that really carries a dish. Place the halves, cut side up, in a baking dish with a bit of water in the bottom and bake in a 425 deg. oven until desired doneness or for 20 min. for fully roasted.

Fruit Pizza: Serves 8-10
Make dough as instructed above, increasing sugar to ½ cup and shortening to 2/3 cup.
If buying; purchase a roll of sugar cookie dough, not pie dough. Roll dough to fit a pizza pan, prick several times with a fork and bake as for cookies, 350 degrees for 10 to 12 min. until lightly browned, or as directions on package state.
Cool completely in pan.
Decoratively arrange raw fruit over the crust. The amount you will need depends on the chosen fruit, roughly about 1 ½ lbs. For July 4th use a combination of strawberries and blueberries. Top with a glaze made from a clear jelly, apple or current, melted with 1 Tbs. water per ¼ cup jelly. For a thicker glaze dissolve ¼ tsp. cornstarch in 1 Tbs. water per ½ cup jelly, which is the amount I use for one of these. Boil until clear and spoon over the fruit. Chill until completely set. Serve in wedges and optionally pass whipped cream, or ice cream.

Peach Crisp: Serves 6
9 ripe peaches, peeled and sliced
½ cup softened butter
1 cup flour
1 cup sugar
½ tsp. cinnamon
½ cup slivered almonds-optional
Place peaches inn a greased 9 inch baking pan. Sift last 4 ingredients and work in butter until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Sprinkle over the peaches and bake in a preheated 375 deg. oven 45-50 min. Serve warm or room temp with ice cream or a whipped topping

Fresh Peach Meringue Pie: Serves 6-8
4-5 cups peeled, sliced peaches
Pastry for a 1 crust 9 inch pie
2 Tbs. peach or all fruit jam
2 egg whites
½ cup sugar
Few drops vinegar
Line pie plate and bake crust until golden. Cool and spread jam over the bottom, then fill with the peaches. Beat the whites until peaks form, add a few drops of vinegar, beat in and continue beating while adding sugar until stiff peaks form. Spread meringue over the top of the pie, being sure to cover right up to the crust edging. Decoratively swirl the top with a spoon and run the pie under a hot broiler until golden on top, about 2-3 min. Store several hours at room temperature, chill leftovers.

Peach Chutney: Yield 1 quart-From The Bon Appetite Cookbook 2006
4 scallions-chopped
¼ cup dried currants or raisins
1 Tbs. sherry vinegar
2 tsp. grated fresh ginger
1 ¾ lb. peeled, peaches in 1/3 inch cubes
Sliced toasted almonds-optional
Combine and chill for up to 6 hrs. Can be served as an accompaniment, salsa or flavoring in rice or a salad.

APRICOTS Resembling small peaches with a slightly more acidic taste and less juice, apricots are the perfect on-the-go snack, able to be consumed in four bites, leaving no drippy mess.

Dump Cake: Serves 12
4-5 cups sliced peaches or nectarines, halved or quartered plums or apricots
½ cup white sugar
½ cup melted butter
1 tsp. cinnamon
(1) 18.5 box of cake mix-flavor optional
Place fruit in the bottom of a 9 x 13 inch pan and mix with sugar and cinnamon. Scatter dry cake mix over the top and pour melted butter evenly over it. Do not stir! Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven about 30 min. until golden on top. Serve with ice cream or whipped topping.

Quick Apricot Ice Cream: Yield about 1 gallon
4lb. apricots-stoned and pureed
¼ cup sugar
Pinch salt
Drop almond, vanilla or rum extract-optional
½ gallon vanilla ice cream
Mix the extract, salt and sugar with the pulp and let stand to dissolve . Mix the pulp in with the softened ice cream-partially, leaving a ripple effect is attractive-or fully incorporate the two. Place in a covered container and freeze until firm-best overnight at least.

Puff Pastry Tart: Serves 6-8– A Martha Stewart Recipe
1 cup shelled toasted pistachios + 1 Tbs.
½ cup sugar
1 stick butter pulse
1 large egg
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Pinch salt
Flour for dusting
1 lb. box puff pastry-thawed
1 ¼ lb. apricots cut in ¼ inch slices
1 egg yolk
1 Tbs. heavy cream
2 Tbs. raw sugar-granulated O.K.
¼ cup apricot jam

Pulse the 1 cup nuts, sugar and butter into a paste. Add next 3 ingredients and pulse to combine. Set aside.

On a lightly floured surface, press edges of both pastry sheets together to form one large sheet. Roll out to a 9-by-17-inch rectangle*; transfer to a baking sheet. Spread reserved pistachio mixture over dough, leaving a 3/4-inch border. Position rectangle so that a short end is nearest you. Arrange apricots on top in 4 vertical rows, alternating direction in which apricots face from row to row. Fold in edges of dough; use your index finger to make a scalloped border. Refrigerate until cold, about 30 minutes. . Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Whisk together yolk and cream; brush egg wash over edges of tart shell. Chop remaining tablespoon nuts; sprinkle nuts and turbinado sugar over apricots. Bake, rotating sheet halfway through, until crust is deep golden brown and fruit is juicy, about 35 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack. . Meanwhile, heat jam with 1 ½ tablespoons water in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring, until thinned, about 2 min. Pass through a fine sieve into a small bowl. Brush glaze over fruit.

*NOTE-tart can also be baked in a conventional tart pan with a removable bottom

Apricot Chicken: Serves 8
8 thighs
1 packet onion soup mix
(1) 14 oz. can apricot nectar
1 lb. apricots-halved
Preheat oven to 350 deg. Place chicken in a 9×13 inch baking dish. Mix together soup mix and apricot nectar. Pour over chicken. Bake for 55 minutes. Sprinkle apricot halves over and around chicken and cook another 10 min.