The informed shopper – Part II – Poultry
Despite, as predicted, the price of chicken having risen 10% in recent months, it’s still a bargain compared to other meats. The margin is just narrower. Though not the saving it was, its nutritional value, plus its versatility are responsible for chicken being the favorite in the poultry category, but other birds, turkeys, ducks, game hens, to name a few are becoming more visible too.
In fact, in the past few decades the whole poultry business has reinvented itself, going from barnyard to boardroom and becoming an industry. The products, especially chicken and turkey, have been transformed. New production methods have increased the availability of tender birds, while keeping the prices reasonable. New butchering methods have led to an increasing variety of uses, which in turn, has resulted in a heightened appreciation for the versatility of poultry in general. Poultry is America’s, if not the world’s favorite source of protein. So let’s look at some tips on buying, storing and safe handling.
Like other meats, poultry should be odorless, just damp, never slick or sticky, and firm to the touch. The flesh should be smooth and the skin supple. Don’t be alarmed if in certain brands of chicken the skin appears more yellow. Some breeders consider the color desirable and add edible flowers, usually Marigolds, to the feed. Chickens and turkeys have white meat, which should be just that-white- and dark meat which should have a rosy hue. Game hens are all white meat. Squabs and ducks are all dark. Game birds vary and are not usually found in the market, nor their recipes in most books, so I won’t discuss them here, but, bear in mind, should you receive one, that the same precautions regarding preparation, storage, and above all safe handling apply to them as well.
When buying a whole bird, choose the heavier of two that appear the same size. It will be meatier, since the bones weigh the same. Whether buying a whole bird or parts, however, safe-handling of poultry is extremely important. Most poultry carries the bacteria SALMONELLA. Salmonella causes an infection characterized by severe cramping and diarrhea. It can be very dangerous to small children and the elderly. Salmonella is eliminated by cooking, but NOT freezing. Thawed meat should be treated as fresh. Prior to cooking, salmonella is easily spread by cross-contamination. Therefore, anything that has touched the raw meat has become a probable carrier of the bacteria and can transfer it to other foods or utensils. So be sure to wash –with SOAP– the countertop, knife, cutting boards, hands after the meat is either wrapped for storage or in the oven. Actually, I keep a separate cutting board for poultry. However, once the proper internal temperature is reached, the meat is safe, and will remain so for leftovers. For correct temperatures, please consult the cooking charts, either from my book website, dinnerswitnjoy.com where a click on CHARTS supplies a free download, or in a cook book.
Whole birds should be stored in their packaging for up to 3 days in the refrigerator, or even frozen that way, if not frozen before. Don’t be afraid to ask the butcher if that’s a possibility, because a re-frozen raw bird goes bad quickly. Also, I like to cover them with another bag as a precaution against any juices leaking and contaminating other food. When preparing for cooking, the bird should be thawed completely, rinsed well and any bits of bone or organic matter removed from the inside. I like to remove any fat, and the tail pin bone, a small tab at the base of the spine, because it holds the oil gland and contributes to the fat rendered. In addition, I “soak” the bird, as my family has called it for generations. It’s also called “koshering” and recently “brining” That is I immerse it in well salted water for about 5min per pound. This adds to the flavor by drawing out the last traces of blood, and helps to keep the meat moist during cooking. Unlike other meats where blood tenderizes the meat, in poultry it toughens and imparts an unpleasant taste. Be sure to rinse the bird well in fresh water before proceeding.
Poultry parts should be rewrapped individually if not to be used within 8 hrs.and stored in the refrigerator if to be used within 3 days, otherwise frozen. They should be rinsed, cleaned, fat removed and dried in paper towels before wrapping separately to avoid sticking together. This way you need remove only as much as you want at a time. Do not brine before cooking, or the salt will toughen the meat.
Chickens have been the most affected by modern hatchery methods. Grandma’s “Stewer”, an old bird, tender only after long boiling is no more, and neither really is the “Capon” a young rooster castrated to keep it inactive and thus tender, formerly the only chicken to make it into the “Fine Dining” menu. There may still be a listing, but it will refer to the preparation, rather than the bird’s anatomy. Tenderness is no longer an issue, it’s expected. Our only problem is whether to choose a broiler-fryer ranging from 3- 6lbs or a “stuffer” ranging from 6-9 lbs.
On the other hand, the good part is that sildenafil purchase almost every sex problem is curable these days. After many pumping devices, injections, supplementations, impanation and surgical processes, these are anti-impotent medicines to relieve many males with ED. buying that viagra sales in canada Keep in mind, most times order free viagra it is due to sexual problems and stress. One would be astonished to know that the cost of using this kind buying cialis cheap http://amerikabulteni.com/page/133/ of medicine. Butchering techniques have drastically changed as well. Chickens used to be divided in anatomical parts, legs, thighs etc. Then the boneless breast became a big hit about 30 yrs. ago, followed by boneless thighs and a whole world of culinary possibilities opened. Pork had not yet become “The other white meat”. Lamb and veal were falling out of favor, possibly due to sensibilities possibly due to limited quantities and increasing prices. Whatever the reason, chicken soon became a substitute in many dishes associated with other meats like Veal Parmesan. Cut even further into cutlets and “tenders” it became perfect for quick sautés with different sauces. The white meat can replace veal in most dishes and the dark does well in many pork recipes.
Although these specific cuts are efficient, they are more expensive. Boning some parts of a bird, like the thighs, can be tricky, but the breasts are easy. Buying split breasts, rather than boneless saves on average $0.80 per pound. If buying for a family, a party or even to stock up on a sale, that’s a saving. Boning a breast is like boning a fish. You slip a knife under the rib bones and slice them away taking the remains of the backbone as well. Then you remove the skin and treat the breasts as you would boneless. This gives you the added advantage of being able to boil the skin and bones for stock, on the spot or frozen for later. I like to roast the breasts in about 1 ½ inch water, with an envelope of chicken bouillon granules and a shot of Teriyaki Sauce at 359 degrees for about an hour. Then simply detach the skin and bones. The meat is more flavorful than boiled and the liquid makes a wonderful base stock and keeps the meat tender and moist. I usually do several at once. The meat stores well, and can be used in many ways, casseroles, and sautés with various sauces, most using the stock with other flavorings.
A word about thighs; they are smaller than breasts, so usually less expensive, but harder to bone which elevates the price of the ones that are. As I have already said, being dark meat they have a slightly more robust flavor, which makes them ideal substitutes for pork in many recipes, whereas white meat is more suitable as a veal replacement. They are excellent in sautéed dishes, and often are the perfect answer if looking for a more affordable option for any of the above mentioned meats in a recipe.
Turkey too, has been updated; it’s not just to be roasted for winter holidays now. Parts are sold separately, the “hotel breast” has long been in vogue, but lately, the Turkey Loin, and boneless breast side which can be stuffed and rolled, as well as cutlets, are gaining popularity. These cuts are unbelievable pork replacements in many recipes, not only offering options from an economic point, but opening a whole world of dishes to those with diet restrictions. Many of the cuts are offered in smoked form as well, replacing ham in many recipes. Moreover, I’ve been served a half breast with a pocket, stuffed and cooked as a veal breast that was meatier and less fatty than the original and loins that were excellent veal replacements. So turkey too has been brought into the 21st century.
No discussion of poultry would be complete without a mention of carving. This calls for a carving knife, which is slender and pointed with a 9 or 10 inch blade and a long handled fork. There are two methods of attacking a whole bird. Both require first locating the wing and leg joints with the carving fork and separating them with the knife to leave the side of the bird exposed. In the traditional method, the breast is then sliced parallel the backbone in smooth downward strokes with the grain. In the modern method, use the fork to steady the bird near the breastbone. Slice down one side of the breast bone until you meet resistance near the base of the bird. Cut horizontally into the bird near the base and remove the entire lobe of breast meat, then slice the lobe across the grain. With both methods repeat on the other side of the bird.
Other poultry found in the majority of supermarkets, game hens, ducks and squabs (pigeons) are too small to provide more than one or two portions, or with ducks, possibly four. They aren’t butchered into special cuts and don’t provide many leftovers. Rather they are cooked and eaten as entities and bought for specific occasions, rather than economy. They don’t really fit into this discussion any more than game birds do, which are usually provided by a hunter, not a butcher.
As with meat, I’ll get into some cuts and ways to use poultry that are price effective after I finish these discussions on buying information. Next week we’ll look at seafood.
