There was an ice cream parlor in my hometown called ‘2 Cents Plain’. It was explained that ‘plain’ was soda jerk speech for ice cream with no toppings or add-ins and, later, when a variety of flavors were created, for a serving of vanilla. The idea of vanilla being ‘plain’ stuck and the word became a slang adjective for non-descript objects and people.

Basically, vanilla ice cream went from being a star, crowned with toppings, to a base for presenting ingredients and even a topping itself. It became the ‘mode’ in a la mode but despite the identity crisis, it remains the best selling flavor, especially in summer because it is such a marvelous host or companion, for all the luscious fruits, raw or cooked, in season then.

In reality, vanilla is an exotic spice with a complex taste, a marvelous, fragrant aroma and a distinct persona, second only to saffron in required labor intensity to produce. Its identity crisis stems from its adaptability. The spice enhances the flavor of other ingredients, rather than creating an interesting contrast of taste, which explains why the extract is used in so many recipes.

Pre-Columbian, vanilla was a favorite of the Aztecs which Cortez introduced to Europe. Like so many of the ‘New World’ plants, it is now grown in several places around the globe. I list them below with descriptions of the difference in flavor from each location.

Vanilla is actually the seed pod of a specific type of orchid. Originally pollenated by a species of bee, now extinct, this job must be delicately done by hand today. The pods, or beans as they are called because they resemble whole green beans, are weather sensitive. A bad season, or even a large storm in one locale, can drive the world price up from $20.00 to $500.00 per lb. quickly.

For many years, vanilla was generally, sold retail only as an extract, or more often found in the form of a less costly imitation of the extract, which was fine for some jobs. In fact, imitation vanilla is recommended for cookies and pastry. However, our current demands for ‘whole’ foods has brought dried vanilla beans to the supermarkets and, increasingly, recipes are calling for them, or the seeds they contain. (the little black specks in ice cream) Sold in plastic bags, the beans may seem expensive but for most jobs they are reusable and last for months. I’m including some uses and recipes to show you vanilla is anything but ‘plain’ and its products, especially whipped cream, ice cream and flavored sugar are great helpers to have on hand for serving all the wonderful fruits of summer.

First let’s look at the differences in vanilla crops globally:

JAVA: The least expensive, flavorable and smallest beans. If a ‘pure’ vanilla extract doesn’t state country of origin, it’s from java.
Madagascar: Also called ‘Bourbon’ vanilla. Beans have a robust aroma and a complex, sweet flavor that is almost like a wine. The best choice generally, but truly best for baking because it holds its flavor under heat.
Mexico: Fragrant with a sweetly floral aroma hinting of chocolate. Best choice for general use in both hot and cold dishes. Be sure extract from Mexico doesn’t contain Coumarin, which is banned by the FDA
Tahiti: The most fragrant and expensive was originally developed for the perfume industry. Best used in cold dishes. Its flavor doesn’t stand up to heat.

The beans are sold dried and resemble brown string beans. They should be kept, wrapped in plastic in an airtight jar in the refrigerator. They are wonderful for infusions for poaching liquids or custards and can be dried out, stored and reused as long as they have an aroma. Vanilla extract can be kept, tightly sealed, in a cool, dark place indefinitely. Choose their country of origin according to the intended use. Some recipes ask the seeds be scraped and used separately, but the keep the open pods for other uses.

RECIPES:

These are not the typical list of recipes using vanilla, cakes, puddings etc. Mostly they’re ways to use the beans to make ingredients for recipes.

One tip, a teaspoon of vanilla extract will enhance the flavor of any cake recipe, even chocolate.

Vanilla Sugar
Bury 2 vanilla beans in 1lb. sugar, granulated or confectioner’s. Leave for at least 1 week, stirring occasionally. Return beans to storage for future use. Use sugar as usual, for decorating or add to whipped cream for topping.

Vanilla Extract
Combine 750 milliliters cheap vodka, 6 split vanilla beans. ½-1cup vanilla extract in a large jar. Seal and place in a cool dark place for about 6 weeks. The beans can be removed and seeds scraped during this time for another use. Return the pods to the jar.
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Vanilla Vodka
Follow the above recipe, using better vodka and omitting the added extract. Allow to steep until desired flavor intensity is reached. Remove beans, dry, store and reuse.

Vanilla Topping:
Soak the beans in cream until flavor is achieved. For more intense flavor scrape the beans into the cream. Remove beans for another use, leave any seeds in. Whip, chill and serve.

Vanilla Brandy
Cut 1 bean into 1 inch pieces and drop in the bottle. Give it at least 3 weeks to infuse or to taste before serving. Leave vanilla in bottle.

Vanilla Mousse:

4 servings. Mousse is an old favorite of mine. It’s a great substitute for ice cream, slightly lighter without the egg yolks and easy to make at home. For a special treat add chopped fresh fruit.
1 cup heavy cream
¼ cup confectioner’s sugar
½ tsp. vanilla
¼ tsp. salt
1 egg white-beaten stiff*
Whip cream, add sugar and vanilla. Fold in egg mixed with salt. Pour into a refrigerator tray or mold, cover with plastic and freeze until firm.
* As a replacement for the raw egg—do not accept an egg substitute—there are several suggestions on the internet. One of the best is mixing powdered cashew nuts with milk to a paste. My grandmother used 2 tsp. Knox gelatin, dissolved in 2 Tbs. skim milk, or half and half, cooled and added as the egg would be.

Vanilla Sauce:

About 1 cup yield-Try this turn-about by putting the vanilla over the fruit.
1 ½ Tbs. butter
1 ½ Tbs. flour
2 Tbs. sugar
1/8 tsp. salt
1 cup boiling water
1 inch piece of vanilla bean or 1 tsp. extract
Melt the butter, and stir in the flour to make a paste or roux. Add water, sugar and salt. Stir over low heat until thickened. Add vanilla and allow to infuse. Chill.