Welcome Spring & Fast, Easy, Fresh
Several years ago, at a Personal Chefs’ conference, the speaker asked how many changed their menus with the seasons. Only a few responded, which was no surprise since they all have hundreds of recipes in their repertoires and are skilled at filling requests. However, I was surprised that even fewer claimed to change their personal menus from winter to summer. Coming from an area of small farms, most of which have roadside produce stands, I can’t imagine not altering meals to include the current crops. My awareness of using seasonal produce was enhanced by living in Italy. The entire population seems to anticipate and then enjoy the bounties of each season. I fondly remember one spring Saturday. A friend had invited me and another couple to luncheon and the races, but when I opened the door, I was greeted by three grinning people, carrying grocery bags exclaiming “Spring peas are here!” They had passed the green grocer’s on the way to my apartment and plans changed instantly. Next I knew, we were sautéing garlic cloves in oil, and carving pieces of ham to brown. When that was done, the peas, which the grocer had sold by weight shelled, were piled in the pan and just warmed through, then served with freshly grated cheese on top. It was delicious and no one missed going to the races.
“Fast, Easy, Fresh” is a frequently heard term in cooking, especially as the growing season approaches. That lunch in Italy was truly those things, but the words have changed meaning somewhat over the years and the terms become relevant to the meal. A fast-food burger is fast easy and freshly cooked. So is a microwaved dinner. A take-out salad is fast, easy and made of fresh, raw ingredients. All these products fit the category but not its spirit.
Fast preparation of food refers to methods of cooking raw ingredients quickly, sautéing, grilling, poaching, broiling, or to foods that can be served au natural or prepared ahead and simply plated. Fish and individual portions of meat, rather than roasts, steamed or sliced raw vegetables, pasta and salad greens are acceptable, not stews, casseroles, baked dishes and complicated sauces. Ironically, true fast food is healthy not the danger linked to the label. Although quicker cooking methods are associated with the more expensive, tender cuts of meat, there are ways to economize. Chicken thighs, minute steaks, frozen fish, even buying ½ lb. of Deli beef or ham will serve 4 in a stir fry and are all affordable options.
Easy is a term that seems to go with “Fast”, but not always, because it can involve the prep time as well. That lunch wouldn’t have been so easy if the peas weren’t bought shelled, and most quick cooking methods require close attention or they may burn. All fresh ingredients usually require some work too. Oh, and are we including clean-up? So “easy” is relative to the meal and, I think, the cook. For me, roasting a chicken, serving one dinner, and having the rest to cut cold or heat in a light sauce, eases the week’s dinner chores. My usual M.O. is to allow time when I get back from shopping to prep everything I can for the coming week. This will become more important as the spring turns to summer and I bring more fresh produce, rather than frozen or “store bought” home, and more cleaning is needed. I like to package items and label them for their intended use, so they’re ready when I want them, to make any marinades or dressings in advance, and even some casseroles. Having all the prep clean-up done, and my ingredients, or full entrees ready to mix and/ or cook on a busy night is my definition of “Easy”. All the T.V. Chefs doing demos on Fast, Easy, Fresh recipes have the prep work done ahead. They don’t stop to measure, run to the cupboard for ingredients, search for clean utensils or wash dishes.
Fresh is the key word here. Frozen or canned foods can be fast, and easy, but fresh stands alone. These days with air freight, refrigerated trucks on super highways, flash freezing and globalization of crops, making produce items always “in season” somewhere, its definition is debatable. I like to think of “fresh” as recently harvested, hopefully that morning and not too far away. It’s so discouraging to get to market and find the produce jet lagged or travel tired. It’s even worse to buy it and find it has quickly wilted once out of the store’s chilled case. That being said, we are fortunate to have all sorts of fresh produce available to us year round, and if we can’t find fresh, there is always frozen. Actually, frozen is sometimes better than fresh. Often processed on harvesting site, it can be fresher than the transported raw items, and is every bit as nutritious.
Still, nothing tastes quite as good as fresh local fruits and vegetables, especially to those who are used to them. However, they can be very expensive, even in season locally, because they’re labor intensive to grow. I know people who’ve driven miles to a farmers’ market with high hopes, only to find the prices so steep they only bought a fraction of what they planned, and the markets themselves are becoming scarce or combining into co-ops which, to meet the brick and mortar overhead, have to hike costs. One solution I have seen frequently is to “grow your own”.
This is not as far-fetched or difficult as it may sound. Container gardens that fit in small spaces are available in many stores, complete with instructions, as are hanging gardens. Window boxes have always been popular. I have several neighbors who replaced ornamental plants in their border areas with vegetables and herbs. One woman planted a whole vegetable garden in her back yard in hopes that the growing process would intrigue her children enough to want to taste and then like them—and it worked!! Another friend plants cherry tomatoes in pots on her terrace wall. She has a party when they’re ripe and puts salt shakers by each pot. The tomatoes are the appetizers! Many people plant fruit trees on their properties. I have a truly brown thumb as far as outside gardening is concerned, but I do have a knack with herbs. A few years ago, I decided that I so missed having them fresh in the winter that I would experiment with moving them in for those months. They loved it and grew and grew. The perennials didn’t do as well as the annuals, but suffice to say, I haven’t bought new plants since, and I have a limitless supply of fresh herbs, mint sauce and pesto all year. You don’t have to reap a crop to feed the family, but just a few home-grown things can spruce up a regular meal and make a dinner seem special.
This year, as with every year, the magazines and T.V. shows will focus on “Fast, Easy, Fresh” recipes through the Spring and into Summer. They will seem simplistic, appetizing and, oh, so temptingly healthy! Clip out and write down all the recipes that appeal to you, but I urge you to stop and think before you rush to the store. This is where the “cents”, if applicable, and the “sense” parts of Kitchen $centse kick in. It’s great to add new recipes to your menus and often earns family praise, but you need to ask yourself some questions before trying them:
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1) From the context in which it is presented and the ingredients, is this a recipe from a cuisine you and your family like? If it’s a new adventure, is it too extreme or just a novelty to try?
2) Are all of the ingredients available in your local markets? Check to find any of those you might doubt before investing in the rest.
3) Are any of the ingredients so expensive that you will regret trying the dish if you err in making it or if it’s not to your liking?
4) Do you have ways of using surplus ingredients? Can you plan for any leftovers from the dish? Will they make sides for other meals, lunches or be easily incorporated into another recipe?
5) Does it require any steps above your kitchen skill level?
6) How much actual prep and clean-up will be required?
Seems like a lot of questions and you don’t have to make a big deal out of them, just run down them like a check list. It could avoid a headache later. In other words be practical. However, if you can get all the ingredients, and it seems doable go for it and make the dish. You may have found a new family favorite. It’s always fun to try new recipes, especially if they’re really quick to do with little effort, filled with fresh produce, and therefore good for you. It dosen’t have to be an exotic dish either. My lunch that Saturday in Italy consisted of familiar ingredients, but they were so fresh and combined in a way that made them special enough to forever define Fast, Easy, Fresh cooking for me.
