Posts from the ‘Informational’ Category

PART II PAN SAUCES- 101

In my book Savvy Sauces and Gravies I list the 8 classic French sauces, starting with the 5 famous ‘Mother Sauces’, Béchamel (or classic White Sauce), Sauce Volute, Hollandaise,Demi-Glace, Sauce de Tomate, Mayonnaise, Oil and Vinegar and Sauces au Buerre(Butter Sauces). I explore all of them; give directions how to make them and explain that ingredient variations and/or additions, result in a second generation of sauces, some such as Marsala and Picatta have become standards in their own right. In the same way third, fourth and more generates of sauces are created.

These later generations of sauce offspring, including pan sauces, form a large and varied category with some of the creations recorded for duplication, bringing fame to chefs for their inspirations. Perhaps best known is Caesar Cardini who patented his salad dressing. Countless more, made every day, are momentary inspirations of chefs, cooks and family meal providers, problem solving or menu perking, their recipes equally fleeting.

Pan sauces are made in the pan used to sauté meats or vegetables. After cooking, little leftover particles, called the fond, are stuck to the pan’s bottom, and they, plus any residual cooking fluids transform into a smooth sauce by a process called deglazing. Deglazing is adding liquid, such as stock or wine, to a pan to loosen and dissolve the fond, which becomes the source of the major flavor for the sauce. In the case of non-stick pans, there will still be a bit of fond. To start a pan sauce, you will need to melt a pat of butter or add bit of oil to gather it.

So according to definition, pan sauces are descendants, principally, of the Demi-Glace and Au Buerre sauces. They are based on and fundamentally flavored by reduction from a food sautéed in butter or a similar substance, margarine or oil for example. The operative word here is ‘sautéed’ as opposed to fried. Frying foods may create a fond, but never a reduction.

So let’s take a closer look at these two founding, classic sauces. The full details are in Savvy Sauces and Gravies. These are ‘Cliff Notes’ on making pan sauces.

The Demi-Glace is the mother of all brown sauces.  It takes more time than the light sauces and requires more ingredients, but it’s simple to make and it freezes well to make other sauces on demand. The recipe calls for 2 onions and 2 carrots diced and in equal amounts, sautéed in ¼ lb. butter over low heat Periguex (Truffle) for about 30 mins, adding 1 Tbs. sugar for the last 10 mins. to caramelize the mix. Stir in 3 Tbs. flour and cook for 3 mins. until it begins to brown, then add: 3 cups stock: 2 cloves minced garlic, Bouquet Garni, 1 Tbs. tomato paste, pinch of salt, dash of pepper  and simmer for 1 hr. Strain into a clean pan, add 1 Tbs. Cognac and 1 Tbs. Madeira and brown food coloring if needed.  If freezing, omit the Cognac and Madeira until ready to use. 

Convenient commercial renditions of Demi-Glace reductions are bouillon, consommé and, for best results, many jarred products in a wide variety of price and quality. They’re great time savers making pan sauces a cinch for the busy cook, needing just to be dissolved, in directed amount, in the pan liquid.
1) In the first generation of offspring, the special ingredients for the specific dish are cooked in wine or vinegar and then add the master sauce. Special finishing ingredients, if required, are added later. Examples: Sauces Chateaubriand, Diablo and Diane.
2) In the second generation the special ingredients are cooked first in butter then reduced in wine or vinegar before adding the finished mother sauce. Examples: Chasseur, Duxelles, and Lyonnaise
3) In the third generation the special ingredients are simply added to the diluted master sauce. Examples: Madiera and Periguex (Truffle.) 
4)In successive generations of true Pan Sauces, after the pan is de-glazed, the special ingredients and then proper amount of master sauce reduction are dissolved in the pan fluid, seasonings added, stirred well and often a sliver of butter melted to give the sauce a silky fins

Sauces au Buerre or Butter Sauces are a huge category encompassing both cold and hot sauces. Cold butter sauces are called “Compounds.” Since almost anything can be added to butter to make a sauce, the possibilities are endless. Traditionally butter sauces, both hot and cold, were served only with hot foods, but compounds have become increasingly popular as spreads for canapés, sandwiches and other cold dishes which widened the field even further. The traditional add-ins  are anchovy paste, garlic, mashed capers, citrus zest and/or juice, garlic, herbs, toasted spices and nuts. 

We make both compounds and pan sauces up on the spur of the moment to fit what we’re cooking. So the best way to handle such an increasingly large, individualized subject is to establish the basics and let you experiment on your own. Compounds only connection with pan sauces is if they are used to sauté the main ingredients or added as a flavor additive and texture smother at the end. Therefore, in discussing pan sauces, the term ‘butter’ will include any compounds.

Always clarify the butter for hot Butter Sauces or the impurities will burn. Hot Butter Sauces are to be served with hot foods or they will unappetizingly congeal and they must be finished just before serving. However the butter can be clarified and reheated as the sauce is made. Hot butter sauces are popular with seafood, Brown butter sauces are used in recipes and as toppings for desserts and baked goods like pancakes. Hollandaise is a second generation butter sauce.

Pan sauces aren’t so fussy, although clarified butter is becoming popular. It’s healthier and gives the sautéed food a cleaner taste. Once the sautéing is over, the cooked food is removed and the pan is deglazed with broth, juice, wine, even cream. Be sure to use heavy cream or half and half, light cream and milk curdle. In the case of non-stick pans, it’s still advisable to start the deglazing by melting a pat of butter or adding a tablespoon of oil to gather the fond.

After deglazing, a flavorful reduction is dissolved in the liquid, a form of demi-glace for meats and vegetables often jelly for fruit, to give the sauce body and depth. Once the sauce is liquid, the finishing seasonings are added, the major food is returned to the pan and everything is heated through for serving. Vola! A Pan Sauce is born!

Once the hallmark of fine dining in restaurants, where dishes with elaborate, accented names were prepared to order at tableside, sauces have undergone a revolutionary transformation since the 1950s.They have gone from being ‘exclusive’ to  being the busy cooks best friend in getting dinner on fast. Partly this is due to our changed lifestyle. Most people work away from home; domestic kitchen help is extinct, eating nutritionally has become important and our culinary tastes have become far more sophisticated and international. We want lighter dishes, cooked in more interesting ways, in less time with less effort and prep.

Keeping pace with this change has been one in the butchering industry. Gone is the dependence on red meats and the larger cuts, the roasts, and veal has completely disappeared, not just from the markets but from restaurant menus as well. However, there are many popular veal dishes that people still wanted Marsala and Picatta to name two. Poultry, presented skinless and boneless, became a happy stand-in. Our meat counters are filled with chops, ‘tenders’ and a new selection of scaloppini unknown before, chicken, turkey and pork, all light, quick cooking cuts.

In fact pork has become the third meat in the now popular meat trinity. “The other white meat.”appears in new, versatile cuts, vying for menu space modeling a variety of sauces; some, again, like Marsala and Paprika, associated with veal, but others like Normandy, from its own past, in updated renditions. Pork, however, is a problem for some people with dietary or medical restrictions. Although chicken provides a good substitute for pork in many dishes, some recipes are better made with turkey. Turkey with its slightly deeper flavor and affinity for many of the same herbs as pork, such as thyme and sage, can be a mirror replacement.

The revolution in butchering, which made this interchange of meats possible is phenomenal.  Chicken no longer comes in whole breasts or breast quarters with lots of bones. Pork is now offered in scaloppini style cutlets and 1-2 lb. fillet loins.  Most amazing of all is what’s being done with turkey. There are boneless breasts, cutlets, scaloppini, and fillet loins, not to forget ground. Turkey can really be used for anything that pork or veal is and some of beef as well.

The adaptability of these meats to sauces is due to their flavors, though unique to each, being, generally, mild enough to work well with complimentary or contrasting additions. Their popularity is due to the large variety of taste combinations they accept, but their practicality is two- fold. First, the new butchering style insures there will be a cut to fit your budget, and second, though ideally made from scratch in conjunction with a sauce, leftovers of these meats are excellent recycled in sauce.

Once you’ve begun to work with pan sauces, you take any recipes you come across in stride and find you develop a feeling what works and what doesn’t. You create your own formula and change it up or down as the occasion demands. It’s second nature, no sweat, a convenient tool, shortcut to getting a meal on the table. Soon you’ll be using cream to make a quick white sauce and finishing with sour cream to duplicate Eastern European dishes. Just remember, sour cream, and milk products, other than heavy cream and Half and Half curdle when boiled. 

Also don’t confuse white pan sauces with the creamy, labor intensive gourmet creations of classic haut cuisine. These are the working crew waiting to help at the end of the day. These are the guys who allow you to relax when asked;” What’s for dinner?” and even let you fit the flavor to the mood of the moment.

Pan sauces are more fluid by nature, but if the sauce seems too thin, ½ tsp. of cornstarch dissolved in 1 Tbs. of the chosen liquid can be added. Stir until desired thickness is reached and proceed as directed. Flour doesn’t work as well. It doesn’t dissolve as completely and often results in a lumpy sauce.

I’m always on the lookout for ways to make cooking less labor intensive. Professionally, it’s expedient because there are time limits, and, personally, I like a relaxed approach. On a normal night, I allow 1 hour from prep to table for dinner, including time to change, or do chores or enjoy a glass of wine, easily done on a night when I’ve planned using a version of a sauce I’ve devised. It’s a bit unorthodox, but it works for me, and, perhaps, will for you as well.

BASIC RECIPE FOR SAUCE- STEP  ONE–2 SERVINGS
1 Tbs. butter—even for non-stick pans because only butter browns well
1 Tbs. canola oil-together with the butter it absorbs the essence of the meat and gives the sauce a base
1 Tbs. white wine or water – for deglazing
Garlic, chopped, powdered or fresh , if using, in stated amount or to taste
½ cup white wine, broth or juice—see note below*
½ tsp, bouillon, beef, chicken, vegetable or ham as suits recipe=Demi-Glace
2 portions of chosen meat-chops, cutlets etc.
Melt butter in pan over medium-high heat and brown meat, adding oil as needed to prevent sticking. Remove meat to a plate, turn heat down to medium and add onions to pan with any remaining oil. Sauté, stirring, until onions are soft, about 3 mins, adding garlic, if using, for last 30 secs.  Use the 1 Tbs. wine or water to partially deglaze and prevent sticking or burning. Remove pan from heat, add the ½ cup liquid and bouillon and completely deglaze.
*I prefer using white wine in making sauces, because it adds a depth of flavor with no alcoholic taste. Broth is often too weak, and juice contains sugar which may burn, or change the overall flavor. If using leftovers, skip the step with the butter and start with sautéing the onion in the oil. The meat will be added after deglazing. 

Either way this is a generic sauce base and you are free to choose the additional flavoring ingredients you want. When confronted with roast leftovers, I often make double this base, refrigerate half and make two completely different types of entrees, to avoid boredom.

STEP TWO—OPTIONS UNLIMITED
No matter what flavor sauce you choose, you will need:
At least 1/4 cup more liquid
Possibly 1 tsp. cornstarch
Probably 1 or 2 more flavor elements
What you want to avoid is a crammed ingredient list, especially if you will want to duplicate the sauce in the future.
Re-heat the meat in the sauce base over medium, then add options. If using leftovers, cook only until sauce is finished and meat is heated through depending on thickness and cut; usually, about 8 mins. Then add finishing flavor ingredients.

Here’s a bonus recipe to give you some ideas to start you on your way exploring the wide, wide world of sauces and their multiple uses.

 FRUIT SAUCES- For those who love the local produce, this a great way to use the bruised or slightly older fruits. It tastes fresher than commercial products, but lasts only about a week chilled.
1 pint of berries, cut if large, or peeled, sliced stone fruit (thick Slurry)
2 1/4 cups water- divided
Sweetener of choice to taste—this is a great recipe for diabetics!
Herbs-mint, lemon balm etc. to taste –optional
1 ½ Tbs. cornstarch
Dissolve the cornstarch in ¼ cup water. Simmer the fruit until soft in 2 cups water with the sweetener.  Add the herbs if using and then the cornstarch. Cook an additional 3 mins until sauce is thick. Use at once or store chilled in covered containers; Can be used as jam, as syrup for pancakes etc. or as a sauce.

SAVVY SAUCES and GRAVIES-PART I THE BASICS

Every cuisine lists gravies and sauces in two separate categories, just as languages give them diverse names, but some confusion persists as to their definitive difference because, in fact, they are very similar. Both are pourable used to enhance various solid foods, flavored with the same herbs and spices, created using the same ingredients by the same process. 

The difference is simply that gravy is made from a meat stock, pan drippings, boiled meat and/or bones. Sauce is based on any other liquid, juice, milk, wine etc.  This explains why Italians always say “Tomato gravy” not tomato sauce. The dish is made from boiling the whole tomato, not just the rendered juice. (Although it also raises the question of why it’s called “Apple Sauce” not ‘Apple Gravy’.)

In my book Savvy Sauces and Gravies, I explain that both dishes are made using either flour or cornstarch as a thickener by creating a slurry or a roux. Personally, I’ve found cornstarch yields a clearer product. A SLURRY is made by dissolving a measured amount of thickener in a measured amount of cold liquid which is then poured into a specific amount of hot liquid to be thickened. The whole is maintained at a low boil, stirring constantly, until desired thickness is achieved-usually about 3 mins. 

A ROUX is usually made with flour rather than cornstarch.  A measured amount of butter or margarine is heated to foam then a measured amount of thickener is stirred in off heat, to make a smooth paste. Quickly add a measured amount of cold liquid, whisking to avoid lumps. This can then be added to a main body of a dish and stirred as above to desired consistency. It can also be made into a sauce itself by heating to a simmer and stirring constantly until thick enough, about 3 min.

Slurries are more often used for making gravies and thickening stews and soups because the fat from the meat is sufficient to make the final product smooth. If not, a pat of butter is a recommendation before serving. Roux incorporates the fat in the base, making it better for silky sauces. However, both methods can be regulated to yield dishes of various thicknesses from thin to very thick.  The basic formulas are:

SLURRY: A few simple rules for making one:
    1) The dissolving fluid should be room temperature and at least twice the amount of the thickener–
        for example 1 Tbs. flour to 2 Tbs. liquid
    2) Be sure the powdered thickener is fully dissolved
    3) Remember to include the amount of dissolving fluid in the total amount to be thickened when
    calculating the quantity of thickening powder needed.
    4) For stews, gravies. soups etc. the base liquid should be skimmed of as much fat as possible or the
        end product can become heavy, glue-like and separate. Cooling the liquid before adding the
        slurry, if time allows, lets the fat congeal and be easily skimmed. This aids the incorporation
        of the slurry reducing the chance of lumping.
    5) Return to the heat, bring to a low boil and stir until thick as wanted, about 3 min.

            PROPORTIONS:
            THIN: 1 Tbs. flour or ½ Tbs. cornstarch per 1 cup liquid= Soup
            *MEDIUM: 2 Tbs. flour or 1 Tbs. cornstarch per 1 cup liquid = Gravies, Casseroles, Stews, Gratins
                                        sauces
            THICK: 3 Tbs. flour or 1 ½ Tbs. cornstarch per 1 cup liquid=Soufflés, accompanying dessert sauces

ROUX: Rules for the Basic White Sauce-Also known as Béchamel Sauce * or Basic White Sauce   
          1) Be sure the butter or margarine are foaming. Then remove from heat at once.
          2) The blending of fat and thickener must be a smooth paste
          3) The liquid should be room temperature or below when added to the paste. Add it all at once
                and whisk or stir vigorously to make sure it’s all incorporated before heating it to avoid lumps.
            4) Stir constantly until it reaches a simmer and achieves desired thickness, about 3 min

                PROPORTIONS:
                  THIN: 1 Tbs. flour or ½ Tbs. cornstarch + 1 Tbs.  butter per 1 cup liquid = Soups

                  *MEDIUM:  2 Tbs. flour or 1 Tbs. cornstarch +2 Tbs. butter per 1 cup liquid =Stews, Gravies,
                                            Gratins, Sauces
                  THICK: 4 Tbs. flour or 2 Tbs. cornstarch + 4 Tbs. butter per 1 ½ cup liquid = Soufflés,
                                            accompanying dessert sauces
* Denotes most frequently used consistency with the most cook friendly variations.
          TIP: 1 Tbs. = 3 tsp.

EXAMPLES:
MY CUCUMBER BISQUE; Serves 4 for dinner-6 for luncheon (Thin Slurry)
4 or 5 large cucumbers—peeled, seeded and roughly sliced
Chicken broth to cover- about 1 qt. with 1 cup reserved
Salt and pepper- to taste if needed
Sour Cream
Paprika
Chopped chives
2 Tbs. Flour
Boil the cucumber in the broth until very soft-about 20 mins.  Make a slurry of the reserved broth and flour. Add to the pot at the end of cooking and boil for 3 mins.  Blend the soup to a smooth consistency. Correct seasonings-but remember cucumber is a very delicate flavor. Chill. Serve in bowls topped with a dollop of sour cream a sprinkling of paprika and chopped chives.

MY CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN: Serves 4 to 6 (Medium Roux)
1 large head of cauliflower – leaves trimmed off and par-boiled
3 Tbs. flour
3 Tbs. butter
1 ½ cups milk
Garlic powder, salt and pepper to taste-sparingly
¼ cup grated cheddar cheese
½ cup grated Parmesan
Paprika
Place the cauliflower in an oven proof serving dish. Make a roux of the butter, flour and milk then cook into a white sauce adding the garlic, salt and pepper. As it finishes add the cheddar cheese until it melts. Correct seasonings, and pour over the cauliflower. Cover with the grated Parmesan, and sprinkle with Paprika, Bake in a pre-heated 350 deg. oven 30 to 40 min. or until golden and bubbling. Serve at once.

GRAVY is the narrower field with fewer variations. Basically, gravy is created in two ways, by boiling the meat in a liquid, usually water or from the pan drippings of roasting meat.  Both types of gravy are made using a slurry. Thickened gravies often look a bit pale and need a bit of a boost to appear “well roasted.”  European cuisine uses tomato paste to get the right browned appearance. There are also several color additives on the market. Gravy Master is a favorite, but I prefer Kitchen Bouquet because it is totally flavorless. However, Soy Sauce is an option in place of salt as is Teriyaki Sauce if the flavor could use some help. Incidentally a touch of a complimentary vinegar can really pop flavor, especially in soup.

SAUCES on the other hand exist in infinite variety and are extremely versatile. A working knowledge of their basics is a real asset in the kitchen. Many sauces are familiar to us and regularly used; melted butter can be a sauce, but so are mayonnaise, pancake syrup and dessert toppings. Sauces range from the simple to the complex, yet often encountering the word on a menu conveys sophistication. This is the secret charm of sauces. They can be taken for granted or add instant glamour to the ordinary. They can dress up a dish, moisten a dry one, transform leftovers or even provide the basis for the whole recipe.  Sauces made by deglazing the sauté pan with added ingredients are in this category.

The simplest sauces are GLAZES, made by melting a food in its solid state, for example jelly, or sugar, over low heat while adding a liquid, usually flavored, to transform it into a pourable consistency and alter its taste to compliment the flavor of the dish it accompanies. If the dish is roasted, the glaze may be added during the cooking and will usually be mentioned on the menu.

Only slightly more complicated are REDUCTIONS. Here a liquid like broth, stock, wine or juice is simmered (cooked just under low boil) until the water content evaporates reducing the volume, thickening the consistency and intensifying the flavor. Reductions can be started over a base of cooking vegetables, a canned broth, even a deglazed pan. Often they need to be strained to smooth them and a pat of butter added at the end will give them a silky finish.

COULIS is a sauce made by cooking the meat of vegetables or fruit, then pureeing and straining it, often adding spices or herbs. These days it would seem more of a condiment, usually encountered dribbled over a dish or decoratively around a plate rim. This includes what, returning to the tomato discussion, the jarred or canned tomato “sauce “dear to many generations of spaghetti lovers as opposed to the heartier tomato “gravy”.

Sauces using a thickening agent are probably the widest varied group, encompassing three major thickening agents, egg yolks, flour and cornstarch. Arrowroot and tapioca are sometimes mentioned in recipes, usually older ones, but to keep the pantry simple, I don’t use them, substituting either flour or cornstarch.

EGG thickened sauces generally follow the same procedure. The yolks are beaten in a bowl and the other ingredients are heated on a stove. A bit of the hot liquid is poured into the eggs to warm them and prevent them scrambling when introduced to the heat as they’re added to the pot. Then the mixture is stirred constantly to prevent curdling until it thickens to the desired consistency. Because of the hazards associated with raw eggs, it’s wise to avoid the “No Cook” recipes for these sauces, but there are plenty of excellent powdered ones available for those short on time.

However, this does open the door for a look into the world of classic sauces according to the French, with some guidance from Julia Child and Alma Lach. There are 5 WARM “Mother” sauces, 2 COLD “Mother” sauces and 1 in a category of its own; for a total of 8 sauces.  A “Mother” sauce is one whose taste is integral to the dish(es) with which it is served and be can be modified to create several other sauces, some of which can be further modified to create a third generation of sauces; grandchildren as it were. Several sauces can form the basis of a dish such as Lobster Newburg or Chicken a la King.

*The most fundamental of the classic French sauces is the Béchamel described above, which is quite simply a roux made with milk and/or cream. The other Mother sauces are Sauce Volute, Hollandaise,Demi-Glace, Sauce de Tomate, Mayonnaise, Oil and Vinegar and Sauces au Burre(Butter Sauces) I explore all of them, plus their offspring in Savvy Sauces and Gravies, explaining how to make them, use them and build on them, including directions for popular sauces like Marsala, Picatta, Cranberry, dessert sauces such as raspberry, even custard filling. 

In the book, I show how to make sauces to fit your needs, to make them do double duty, give you options, giving recipe examples, including one multi task recipe. I also discuss pan sauces you can create as you cook. But that’s such a big topic I’m going to save it for discussion I in next week’s post.

PORK CUTS OTHER THAN LOIN

My favorite market ran a deep special on Pork Butt (also called Boston Butt) last week and they were beautiful cuts. As I put my selection in the cart, a watching friend remarked she’d like get one but her husband couldn’t eat pork. I blinked; this man loves baked ham, rare beef and bags a deer every fall. She explained that, after lap-band surgery, pork meat was too coarsely textured and dry to easily digest.

A light bulb went on and I asked if she always bought pork loin. She did and admitted it was usually loin chops which she broiled or grilled. I realized lots of people must have my friend’s hesitation about pork, due to lack of familiarity. This is unfortunate, especially now when the variety of not just different cuts but meats has declined. Most markets only offer chicken, beef and pork and the prices are rising so quickly that we’re forced to explore unfamiliar, formerly considered lesser, cuts.

Back in the ‘80s-‘90s, fat was the villain. Everything had to be no-fat, low-fat or ‘lite’. Pork was starred as ‘The other white meat’ and pork loins, which really are one of the leanest cuts of meat, became popular. There were two problems with that; pork loin has no marbling to keep it moist, and fear of trichinosis dictated that all pork be very well cooked, a practice which dries any meat. 

Modern husbandry has removed the threat of trichinosis, which solves one problem. But pork, like poultry, still needs to be fully cooked, for the same reasons, to kill bacteria common in non-blood white meats. So problem two remains, pork dries out quickly, making loins particularly difficult to cook. They need to be roasted with the fat cap up, and loin cuts, chops or roast, require a watchful eye. 

The answer is to look to other cuts of pork. We’re familiar with ham and bacon but the shoulder roasts, and ‘arm chops’ are finer grained, moister, some claim tastier, almost as lean and more forgiving than the loins. Like hams, shoulder roasts are divided into two parts. This can cause some confusion because the top half is called the ‘butt’ just as with hams but distinguished by another name –‘Pork Butt’ or ‘Boston Butt’. The bottom is called the ‘Picnic’.

Pork or Boston Butts are square in shape, and well marbled with intramuscular fat. They are sold bone in or boned with the fat cap intact. They are recommended for long cooked savory stewed and braised recipes or for barbequing and pulled pork or taco dishes.

Pork Picnics are leaner and often sold with skin on. Whole picnics are best for roasting, and can stay in the oven until the skin crackles without drying. Triangular in shape, they are sold bone in but often presented in netting boned and rolled. They unroll in an uneven layer which can be divided for use in chop recipes, small rolls, cubes for casseroles even as ‘country ribs’.

Arm chops, often labeled arm steaks, depending on size, are slices of picnic roast.  Available smoked or fresh they can be treated as any chop or steak, except that they must be fully cooked. Again, however, they’re more forgiving and juicer than loin chops.

As for my friend, she took a chance, bought a pork roast and I emailed her recipes. She reports that the recipes were easy; her husband liked them and had no digestive problems. She’s delighted to have another meat option, especially if her husband doesn’t bring home a deer this year. Moreover, she loves the fact that pork stands in for chicken, turkey and veal in most dishes.  It opens lots of recipe windows. So give pork a second thought and try some of the recipes below…..
For more on pork see post for Jan. 12, 2017 To stretch a pork roast into 5 meals see April12, 2014.

RECIPES

Mushroom Stuffed Pork Roast with Wine Sauce-Suggestion for a boned picnic roast
3 lb. boneless pork loin roast (the best alternate is beef tenderloin or round roast-adjust cooking times)
(1) 10 oz. box chopped spinach – thawed and well drained
8 oz. canned mushrooms sliced or stems and pieces – drained
Ground nutmeg
Salt and pepper
1 large onion in small dice
1 cup + beef broth
2 Tbs . oil
3 cups red wine
Butterfly the roast by slicing it lengthwise down the center almost through. Open it like a book and make similar slices down the length of each side in the center. Cover the meat with plastic wrap and pound to an even thinness. Spread the spinach evenly over the surface, leaving a 1 inch margin on 3 sides, but not on one edge of the first cut. Sprinkle lightly with nutmeg, and top with the mushrooms. Roll up the meat, starting with the side with no margin and tie with string every inch or so, securing the roll. Rub the outside lightly with salt and pepper, place in a roasting pan and cook in a preheated oven (350 deg. for pork) according to directions for cut.* When the roast reaches desired doneness, plate and let rest a few minutes . Serve in thin slices.
Meanwhile, sauté the onion in oil in a saucepan until soft. Add 3 cups wine and allow wine to cook down, adding in beef broth to maintain original level of liquid-about 1 cup total. When it reaches desired strength, add salt and pepper to taste. Can be made ahead and reheated. Serve warm with roast.
*Pork takes about 2 hours to reach 150 deg. at 350 deg.
*Beef tenderloin should be cooked at 500 deg. for 30 min. or until temperature reaches 145 deg. for medium rare.
*Beef round should be cooked as tenderloin if wanted rare, but as pork if desired well done. Remember, the longer beef cooks the tougher it gets, unless being stewed or steamed to tenderness.

Roast Pork Au Jus This is for 2 servings but amounts vary with number of portions.
Loin of pork
1 tsp. dried powdered rosemary, dried marjoram or thyme
½ tsp. black pepper
1 ½ cups of chicken broth
¼ cup Madera or Port
Rub meat with the seasonings and put in a pan with a bit of broth in the bottom to prevent sticking. Roast in a 350 deg. oven for 30-35 min. per pound until thermometer reads 170 deg. and meat is nicely browned. Use broth to keep meat from sticking while cooking, and the reserve to deglaze the pan. You should have a bit over 1 cup left. Mix broth and wine and boil until alcohol burns off and it reduces a bit  Pass with meat.

My Nana’s Pork and Kraut
1 1/2 >2 lb. any type bone-in pork chops or small Boston, Arm or Picnic roast-moderately trimmed
2 large cans or 2 bag kraut
water
Instant mashed potatoes

Place half the kraut  in the bottom of a large pot, layer on the pork and cover with the remaining kraut, Pour over enough water just to cover, bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover pot with a lid and simmer for 2 + hrs. until meat is very tender. Serve over mashed potatoes-I use instant because the kraut gives them all the flavor they need.

Stew in a Pumpkin; Serves 6-8 Can be done with acorn squash
3 Tbs. butter
2 lbs. beef for stew cubed
3 Tbs. cornstarch
2 large onions diced
3 tomatoes chopped
2 Tbs. butter
¼ tsp. EACH salt and pepper
3 cups beef stock
½ lb. prunes
½ lb. dried apricots
3 sweet potatoes sliced
(2) 10 oz. packages corn –thawed and drained
1 pumpkin, top cut off and reserved, cleaned of pulp and seeds.
Melt 3 Tbs. butter in a Dutch oven. Roll the meat in the cornstarch and brown. Set aside. Melt 2 Tbs. butter in a separate pan and sauté vegetables until tender. Add to meat with juices. Add all remaining ingredients except pumpkin, cover and simmer 1 hr. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Ladle stew into the pumpkin; set in a roasting pan with 1 inch of water, and bake for 1 hr. Carefully transfer pumpkin from the pan to a serving dish and replace its top as a lid for garnish. Serve at once scooping out some of the pumpkin meat as you ladle out the portions.
Single servings can be made using individual tiny pumpkins or delicata squash. Reduce oven time to 45 min.
NOTE: I save clean-up by sautéing the vegetables in the Dutch oven first and then browning the meat. It’s one less pot. Also if you have it on hand, replace one cup of stock with beer. It deepens the flavor.

Spicy Pork: Serves 6
3-4 lb. pork cut in 2>3 inch cubes (use chicken thighs and reduce cooking time to 2 hrs.)*
2 Tbs. EACH oil, chili powder, chile flakes, chopped cilantro, chopped parsley
½ Tbs. EACH seasoned salt and ground cumin
1Tbs. EACH minced garlic, dried oregano and black pepper
1 cup EACH diced onion and chicken broth
In a large bowl mix all ingredients but broth. Toss to coat pork well and marinate, chilled, at least 4 hrs. Put the mixture in a Dutch oven or covered oven-proof pot; add broth and cook in a preheated 350 deg. oven for 3 ½ to 4 hrs. until meat is fork tender. Serve hot in bowls or over grain or pasta.
*This might be interesting with whole drumsticks

PORK IN PEPPER SAUCE: Serves 4

This dish can be done two ways – on a grill – Method A – OR in a skillet – Method B. Either way the sauce is made first. Turkey, chicken or veal can be substituted. 

@ 1 1/2 to 2 lbs. pork loin or loin chops cut –also use arm steaks or chops

A) . in 4 thick slices, or chops, for the grill (bone-in chicken thighs with skin)

B). in 8 thinner slices or chops for the skillet (skinless, boneless chicken thighs)

2 tsp. minced bottled garlic
1 tsp. dried basil
1 medium onion –chopped
(1) 7 oz. jar roasted red peppers*
1 tsp. oil
1/8 tsp. lemon pepper
¼ cup White wine
2 Tbs. butter – for Method B
To make sauce: Microwave onion in oil with lemon pepper 1 ½ min. Drain peppers, blend with onion, basil, and garlic to a puree. Add the wine.

Method A: Put the sauce in a small pan. Grill meat. Warm the sauce as pork is finishing, pour over the meat and serve.

Method B: Melt the 2 Tbs. butter in a skillet over medium heat and brown meat on both sides. Pour sauce over the meat, reduce heat and cover. Simmer gently for 8-10 min., or longer until pork is very tender.

*Other varieties of roasted peppers or chilies can be added to taste as can hot sauce, but be aware if using Method B that the longer hot spices are cooked the hotter they become.

Pork Normandie: Serves 4
1 1/2 lb. pork cut in 1 inch cubes-or equal amount of round bone or shoulder chops-trimmed
1 Tbs. butter
1 cup chopped onion
1 clove mashed garlic
2 cups peeled, cored apples-cubed 
2 cups apple juice or cider
1 1/2 Tbs. cornstarch
Salt and pepper
1/2 tsp. crushed rosemary
ground cinnamon
Dissolve the cornstarch in the juice. Sauté the meat in the butter until golden, remove to a casserole dish and sauté the onion and garlic in the pan until soft. Toss the pan drippings, vegetables, seasonings, rosemary and apples with the meat in the dish. Add the juice mix, garnish with the cinnamon. Cover and bake at 350 deg, for 1 3/4 hr.

PORK CHOPS WITH CARMELIZED ONIONS: Serves 4
A very mild dish, so the best substitutes would be turkey or chicken thighs.
4 fairly thick loin or center pork chops @ 2 lbs.
5 large onions sliced @ 3/8 of an inch thick
1 tsp. sugar
1 Tbs. minced garlic
@ 2 cups chicken broth = 1 can Condensed Broth
2 Tbs. butter
2 Tbs. oil
¼ cup Madera wine
Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat and brown chops well. Remove from pan, add oil and sauté onions with sugar until a golden color and translucent add garlic and cook 1 min more. Lower heat and return chops to pan, covering them with the onions. Add the broth, cover and cook 40 min. Plate chops, with onions over them. Add the Madera to the broth and deglaze the pan. Bring the liquid to a boil and simmer for 1 min. to reduce it slightly then pour over chops and serve.

EAST-WEST PORK BIRDS: Serves 4
4 lean slices center cut pork chops or pork cutlets (use turkey scaloppini)
2 tsp. ground fennel seed
1/3 tsp. cinnamon
½ tsp. garlic powder
1 ½ cups apple juice or more
1 envelope chicken or beef bouillon
2 cloves
1/3 cup thin celery slices
2 kale leaves-thick stalks removed
½ small onion thinly sliced
18 dried apricots- 12 julienned
Pound the pork to an even thinness. Cover the kale leaves in water and microwave 10—20 sec. to slightly wilt. Spread seasonings over meat slices. Pile, in order, celery, onions, julienned apricots and kale equally in center of meat slices. Roll meat and secure with skewers. Place meat rolls in a pan with bouillon, cloves, remaining 6 apricots and enough apple juice to come 1/3 up the sides. Bake at 350 deg. 1 ½ hrs. basting occasionally and maintaining liquid level. Remove cloves. Serve hot with juice.

PORK CHOPS BASIL: Serves 4
This is an old family favorite, and it also works well for roasts, consult charts for times per pound. It can be refrigerated for three days, or even frozen for two weeks, after the baking, so it can be made ahead and quickly ready on a rushed night. Veal chops or turkey cutlets may be substituted for the pork.
(8) ½ inch thick center pork chops well-trimmed (or boneless chicken thighs pounded to an even thinness)
½ cup flour
1 Tbs. garlic powder
2 Tbs. dried basil
½ a small can frozen orange juice concentrate or 1 cup apricot nectar
Water to dilute orange juice to equal 1 cup
¼ cup cream sherry (for a bolder taste use 1 jigger whiskey, rye or scotch)
Sprinkle half the garlic powder and half the basil in the bottom of an oven proof dish or pan that will hold the chops closely but not overlapping. Dredge the chops in the flour, by shaking in a plastic bag, one at a time, making sure they’re well coated. Place in pan, and sprinkle the rest of the garlic and basil over them. Cover and seal the pan with foil. Bake, preferably at 250 degrees for 2 hours, but acceptable at 350 degrees for one hour. Remove from oven, turn on broiler, and carefully lift foil. Mix orange juice with the sherry and just enough water to come almost to the top level of the chops in the pan, and pour over the chops. Broil until chops brown and the sauce thickens.

Pork with Cranberry-Wine Sauce: Serves 2 (Black Cherry jelly can replace the cranberry)
(4) ½ inch slices of roasted pork loin
1 Tbs. oil
1 small onion- diced or thinly sliced
½ cup whole berry cranberry sauce
¼ cup red wine
Fresh ground black pepper to taste – be generous
Sautee the onion in the oil until soft. Add the sauce, wine and pepper, stir to mix. Add the pork, cover and simmer on low for 5 min. until pork is heated through. Uncover for 3-5 min. more until sauce has thickened a bit. Serve at once.

Pork Paprika Over Pasta: Serves 2
Scant 4 oz. of pork cut in strips– I used the flap I cut from the roast, but leftover will do as well
1 Tbs. chopped parsley or
1Tbs.oil
1 medium onion thinly sliced
½ tsp. garlic powder
1 Tsp. paprika
Pinch cayenne pepper
2 Tbs. chopped parsley or 1 tsp. dried- divided
2 tsp. tomato paste
1Tbs.port or sherry
5oz. sour cream
4 oz. can sliced mushrooms or stems and pieces
½ lb. bow-tie pasta
1 tsp. butter
1 Tbs. poppy seeds
Sautee onion in the oil until soft about 5 min. Add the pork, seasonings and ½ the parsley to the pan and cook until meat is no longer pink. Add the wine and burn off alcohol about 30 sec. Reduce the heat to low, then add the sour cream, tomato paste and mushrooms. Stir only to heat through and do not allow to boil. Meanwhile cook pasta al dente. Drain and toss with the butter, poppy seeds and the rest of the parsley. Serve pasta topped with the pork mixture.

Thai Pork Kabobs: Serves 4
(8) 10 inch skewers-if wooden be sure to soak first
12 oz. trimmed, cubed pork
1/3 cup reduced sodium soy sauce
2 Tbs. EACH lime juice and water
½ tsp. hot chili oil*
2 cloves garlic-minced
1Tbs. minced fresh ginger
1 red Bell pepper in ½ inch chunks
1 onion in ½ inch chunks
2 cups hot cooked rice—preferably brown
Combine liquids and spices in a bowl-reserve ½ cup for dipping sauce. Cut pork lengthwise in half and crosswise into 4 inch slices, then into ½ inch strips. Marinate in liquid in bowl 2 hr. Alternately thread woven pork strips, onion and pepper on skewers, spray grill and cook, covered over medium coals or directly under broiler 6-8min.until pork is done. Serve on rice with dipping sauce.
*Alternatively microwave 1tsp.canola oil and 1 tsp. red pepper flakes 1 min.-let stand 5 min. to infuse

Pork Tagine: Serves 4
1 lb. pork cut in ¾ inch medallions
1 Tbs. flour
1 tsp. EACH ground cumin and paprika
¼ tsp. EACH red pepper and ground ginger
½ tsp. turmeric
1Tbs. olive oil
1 medium onion –chopped
3 cloves garlic-minced
2 ½ cups canned chicken broth – divided
1/3 cup raisins
1 cup quick cooking couscous
¼ cup EACH cilantro and slivered toasted almonds
Mix flour with spices in a bowl and toss pork-set aside. Sauté onion in oil over medium 5 min. add garlic and pork and cook until pork is no longer pink-about 5 min. stirring occasionally. Add ¾ cup broth and raisins and bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 7-9 min until pork is done, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile cook couscous in remaining broth according to directions. Spoon couscous onto plates, top with pork and garnish with cilantro and almonds.