EARLY FALL STONE FRUIT DESSERTS
These early fall desserts are nostalgic because they mark definitive endings, both to the summer and to its luscious stone fruits. The days can be just as warm and sunny as those in summer, but especially, for me, living at the seashore it seemed a different world. Gone was the traffic. The silence echoed without lifeguard whistles, boats pounding the surf and planes overhead towing banners. Even the air seemed empty without the pervasive aromas of sun-tan oil and charcoal fires.
The traditional late summer-early fall desserts featuring stone fruits, remind us that their season too, is past its prime. Those desserts symbolize the closing of the book on summer and all its special pleasures, for another year because unlike melons, berries and citrus fruits, stone fruits aren’t available all year.
Although cherries are technically part of this group, usually the term ‘stone fruits’ means peaches, their smooth skinned alter-egos, nectarines, apricots, and plums. All are Asian in origin with histories dating back at least 3000 years in China and currently grown the world over. They mix well together, and with other ingredients in both cooked and raw dishes, casseroles, salads and dessert. Best of all stone fruits are interchangeable in recipes.
With stone fruits interchangeable nature in mind, I’m writing this post on early fall desserts in a salute to the ending of both seasons. The recipes below feature these fruits, cover a wide range of choices and are quite accepting of the lesser quality that usually signals the end-of-season crop.
RECIPES:
Broiled, Grilled or Roasted Peaches or Nectarines
Peaches and nectarines are the favored stone fruits to withstand intense heat without the support of pastry or a pan. Simply halve and pit them, place them on a baking sheet in the oven or directly on the grill and cook them until the juices bubble and the cut edges begin to char. Grilling time depends on the size of the fruit and degree of heat. Roasting is done at 400 deg. for 20 min.
They can be served directly with meat but as a dessert I like to let them marinate a few minutes in a complimentary liqueur or liquor, Peach Brandy, Triple Sec, spiced rum etc., until they form a bit of sauce and then serve them with the sauce and meringues, ice cream or whipped cream.
Plum Rustica, or Galette, is the easiest type of pie to make. This is a short version of the recipe from my book Dinners with Joy:
If making the crust: mix 1 ½ cups flour, ¼ cup sugar, cut in 1/3 cup shortening, add 3 to 4 Tbs. ICE water to form dough, and roll to a 12 inch round.
If buying the crust: roll only to 10 inches.
Transfer to a parchment or foil covered cookie sheet, or a pizza pan for baking.
Depending on size, fill the center with a 1 lb. to 1 ½ lb. fruit, leaving a 2 to 3 inch margin. (Apples pears and peaches should be peeled and sliced. Plums and apricots can be halved and stoned.)
Dot fruit with ½ Tbs. butter.
Sprinkle with 1 Tbs. cornstarch, 1 Tbs. sugar and ½ tsp. lemon juice.
Carefully fold edges of pastry up around filling, pleating as you go. The edges can be brushed with cream or egg white and sprinkled with sugar as decoration.
Bake at 400 degrees for 30 min. Cool on sheet; preferably on a wire rack.
This can be moved to a plate for serving, but as the name implies, it’s a “rustic” or casual pastry, and I like to bake it and serve it in a pizza pan.
Fruit Pizza: Serves 8-10
Make dough as instructed above, increasing sugar to ½ cup and shortening to 2/3 cup.
If buying; purchase a roll of sugar cookie dough, not pie dough. Roll dough to fit a pizza pan, prick several times with a fork and bake as for cookies, 350 degrees for 10 to 12 min. until lightly browned, or as directions on package state.
Cool completely in pan.
Decoratively arrange raw fruit over the crust. The amount you will need depends on the chosen fruit, roughly about 1 ½ lbs. For July 4th use a combination of strawberries and blueberries. Top with a glaze made from a clear jelly, apple or current, melted with 1 Tbs. water per ¼ cup jelly. For a thicker glaze dissolve ¼ tsp. cornstarch in 1 Tbs. water per ½ cup jelly, which is the amount I use for one of these. Boil until clear and spoon over the fruit. Chill until completely set. Serve in wedges and optionally pass whipped cream, or ice cream.
Wonton Fruit Cups: Serves 12
24 wonton wrappers
2 Tbs. melted butter
1/3 cup fruit preserves—flavor complimentary to fruit filling
1 cup lemon yogurt or instant pudding-pie filling, flavor optional
1 ½ cups diced fruit
Line a 12 cup or (2) 6 cup muffin pans with a wonton wrapper. Brush with ½ the butter. Place a second wrapper diagonally across the first and brush with remaining butter. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven 10 min. or until golden. Remove and cool. Spread 1 tsp. fruit preserves in each cup. Fold yogurt or pudding with 1 cup fruit and spoon into cups. Garnish with remaining fruit.
Fruit Crisp: Serves 6-8
4-5 cups sliced peaches or nectarines, halved apricots, quartered plums
½ cup melted butter
¾-1 ¼ cups white or light brown sugar-depending on sweetness of fruit
¾ cup flour
¼ tsp. salt
1 tsp. cinnamon or ½ tsp. nutmeg or allspice—depending on choice of fruit
Few drops lemon juice
Place the fruit in an ovenproof bowl or pan the size of a 9 inch pie plate and sprinkle with lemon juice. Stir all the other ingredients into the butter and scatter over the fruit. Bake in a preheated 400deg.oven about 30-40 min. until fruit is done. Cool on a rack and serve spooned into bowls topped with ice cream or whipped topping.
Apricot Shortcake:
3 apricots per portion-sliced
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Whipped topping
Almond extract-optional
1 recipe buttermilk drop biscuits, sponge cake shells or slices of pound or angel food cake
Sprinkle the fruit with sugar and a drop of almond extract if using. Let stand until glossy and moist. Chill. Build dessert as for any shortcake in layers starting with pastry, fruit and topping.
Quick Apricot Ice Cream: Yield about 1 gallon
4lb. apricots-stoned and pureed
¼ cup sugar
Pinch salt
Drop almond, vanilla or rum extract-optional
½ gallon vanilla ice cream
Mix the extract, salt and sugar with the pulp and let stand to dissolve. Mix the pulp in with the softened ice cream-partially, leaving a ripple effect is attractive-or fully incorporate the two. Place in a covered container and freeze until firm-best overnight at least.
Puff Pastry Tart: Serves 6-8– A Martha Stewart Recipe
1 cup shelled toasted pistachios + 1 Tbs.
½ cup sugar
1 stick butter pulse
1 large egg
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Pinch salt
Flour for dusting
1 lb. box puff pastry-thawed
1 ¼ lb. apricots cut in ¼ inch slices
1 egg yolk
1 Tbs. heavy cream
2 Tbs. raw sugar-granulated O.K.
¼ cup apricot jam
Pulse the 1 cup nuts, sugar and butter into a paste. Add next 3 ingredients and pulse to combine. Set aside.
On a lightly floured surface, press edges of both pastry sheets together to form one large sheet. Roll out to a 9-by-17-inch rectangle; transfer to a baking sheet. Spread reserved pistachio mixture over dough, leaving a 3/4-inch border. Position rectangle so that a short end is nearest you. Arrange apricots on top in 4 vertical rows, alternating direction in which apricots face from row to row. Fold in edges of dough; use your index finger to make a scalloped border. Refrigerate until cold, about 30 minutes. . Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Whisk together yolk and cream; brush egg wash over edges of tart shell. Chop remaining tablespoon nuts; sprinkle nuts and turbinado sugar over apricots. Bake, rotating sheet halfway through, until crust is deep golden brown and fruit is juicy, about 35 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack. . Meanwhile, heat jam with 1 ½ tablespoons water in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring, until thinned, about 2 minutes. Pass through a fine sieve into a small bowl. Brush glaze over fruit.
Apricot Galette: Serves 8-10
For Crust– (* Option –purchase a refrigerated pie crust)
1¼ cups flour
½ cup shortening – – this can be Crisco, butter or margarine
¼ cup sugar
¼ tsp. cinnamon
4 Tbs. ICE water
For Filling–
1 ½ lbs. apricots-halved or quartered (@6 cups)
½ cup sugar + 2 tsp.
2 Tbs. cornstarch
1 tsp. butter
1 egg white OR ¼ cup milk
*Option—To use a refrigerated pie crust, dust with powdered sugar and roll to 12” round. If rolling is not required, dust with 1 Tbs. powdered sugar and ¼ tsp. cinnamon, before adding fruit.
For crust– Place all the dry ingredients in a bowl and stir well. Using the blades of two knives, mix cut cubes of the shortening into the dry ingredients until clumps are the size of small peas, or use your fingers to blend the mix until it resembles gravel. Add ice water 3 Tbs. at first and then the 4th, if needed, turning constantly with your hands, until dough can form a ball. It should be as moist as modeling clay, but the less handling the flakier the crust. Chill wrapped in plastic, or simply put the bowl in the fridge while you do the rest. When ready, roll on a floured board to a 12” round, transfer to a parchment or foil covered cookie sheet.*
For Filling– Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Mix apricots, ¼ cup sugar and cornstarch in a bowl to coat well. Spoon the filling into the center of the crust, leaving a 2 ½’ margin. Dot top with the butter and fold the crust edges up over the filling, pleating them as you go to form a circle with an open center. Brush the crust with egg white or milk and sprinkle with extra 2 tsp. of sugar. Bake for 20 min. reduce heat to 375 deg. and bake 15-20 min. more or until browned and bubbly. Cool completely on the baking sheet on a wire rack. When sufficiently cool, use a spatula to slide the rustica onto a plate. Serve alone, or with ice cream, whipped cream, warm caramel sauce or cheese.
*An easy way to do this, is to cover the board with wax paper, liberally dusted with flour. Roll out the pastry, lay the parchment covered baking sheet over it, and flip the pastry, board and all over onto the sheet. Remove the wax paper and proceed with filling the pie.
