Posts from the ‘Recipes’ Category

BRUNCH NOTES

“Brunch: Alternative first meal of the day; a combination of breakfast and lunch traditionally served after mid-morning.”  So, by definition, brunch doesn’t fit a normal schedule, and by implication, it’s for those who sleep late-translation, a free day following a late night.  The most generally observed is New Year’s Day.

Brunch is also a welcome option for the meal provider, or host. It’s an efficient solution to what could be a messy, confused situation if dealt with on an individual basis. 

However, what really makes brunch so popular is the food.  Fun and festive, the dishes are less substantial than dinner, more so than breakfast, with wider variety than usually associated with lunch. Of course, brunch dishes do have specific requirements. People need nourishment to get going in the morning and to carry them through a full day.

Hence, brunch entrees must be nutritiously fortifying. If it can be prepared ahead or is so easy to make that it doesn’t require more precautions than covering clothes with an apron, all the better. Plus, brunch can be a casual pick-up, or a more formal seated meal, either way it makes guests, and family feel catered to in a special way.

April 1, 2015, I wrote a post giving 13 brunch recipes suitable for holidays or just a weekend, all simply made.  On March 23, 2016 I wrote a post on brunch and supper recipes because they are often interchangeable. I also have a post on eggs Feb. 17, 2016 and two books with suitable recipes : Can I help? And No Stress Recipes for Mother’s Day.  This year, I’m reprinting recipes from these four sources which are elegant but easy to prepare. Additionally, there are dishes below that can serve as a brunch or supper, and can be prepared ahead and table ready with minimal effort, time and mess.

I’ll start with the old standby eggs, and a reminder that, to complete these dishes, you should check the posts on Muffins and Biscuits, Feb. 14, 2019 and Using Frozen Bread Dough May 15,2016. All recipes serve 4, but large eaters may need double servings of the egg dishes.

RECIPES

Eggs Aurora: Serves 4
8oz. can tomato sauce
2 tsp. dried basil+ extra for garnish
4 large eggs
Pour sauce into a 10 inch skillet, stir in basil. Heat through over medium and break the eggs into the pan, keeping them separate. Cook over medium until set-2 min. Reduce heat to low, cover pan and cook until egg yolks are done to desired degree. Carefully plate each egg separately, add some sauce and serve at once.

Eggs Adeline: Serves 2
2 eggs
2 slices Canadian bacon- cooked
2 Deli slices Swiss or Cheddar cheese
2 thick center slices of beefsteak or other large tomato
1 English muffin
Worcestershire sauce
Split and toast the muffin. Layer equally on each half in order the bacon the tomato and then
cheese. Run under a hot broiler until the cheese just melts meanwhile, poach the eggs. Top each muffin half with an egg and sprinkle with Worcestershire sauce.
Note: I have substituted toasted slices of Italian bread for the muffin and also put the topped slices in the microwave for 30 sec. instead of heating the broiler.

.Eggs Parmesan: Serves 4—Custard cups are needed for this
4 slices Deli ham—optional
8 large eggs
8 Tbs. heavy cream, half-and-half, or evaporated milk
4 Tbs. Grated Parmesan cheese
Line each custard cup with a slice of ham. Break 2 eggs into each cup. Cover with 2 Tbs. milk or cream. Top each with 1 Tbs. cheese. Place cups on a cookie sheet and bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven until set about 12-15 min. Serve hot with rolls or toast.

Baked Eggs in a Cloud: Serves 4
4 large eggs separated
4 thin slices of ham or smoked turkey
2 drops of cider vinegar
Butter for the pan
Salt and pepper
Optional seasonings
Lightly butter a 7X7x1 ½ inch square ovenproof pan. Preheat oven to 350 deg. Lightly grease the bottom of the pan, and line the bottom and sides with a single layer of ham leaving a slight overhang all around. Whip the egg whites until they stand up in peaks, incorporating the vinegar half way through. Add seasonings. Spoon them over the ham. Using a spoon, make 4 dents in the whites, evenly spaced for portions. Put a yoke in each depression. Bake 12 to 15 minutes until whites are slightly brown and yokes are just set. Serve at once. I like a bit of curry powder or dry mustard in the whites. Alternately serve with Worcestershire sauce to top.

Spinach Squares, Poached Eggs and Pickled Salmon: Serves 4
12-14 oz. package of frozen chopped spinach
5 eggs
1 envelope chicken or beef bouillon granules
Ground nutmeg
4 salmon fillets 4-5oz.each – thawed if frozen
3 Tbs. white vinegar
2 tsp. pickling spice

Gently poach salmon in salted water to cover plus vinegar and spices, turning once, until no longer transparent, about 8 min. total. Remove from heat, bring to room temperature and chill in broth. Can be refrigerated up to 4 days.
Drain excess liquid from spinach; mix with 1 egg and bouillon. Place in a lightly greased 8X8 inch ovenproof dish and sprinkle with nutmeg. Can be chilled for several hours. Make 4 wells in the spinach and fill each with one egg, taking care not to break the yolks. Bake at 350 degrees for 20 min. until spinach and eggs are set. Cut into squares and serve with drained cold salmon.
*Salmon recipe adapted from Rozanne Gold’s Menu Cookbook

Frittata; Serves 4

Count on using about 1 cup vegetables, leftovers or canned are perfect. If using frozen or raw, they must be sautéed or blanched first. Frittatas are also forgiving. If one sticks and won’t slide onto a plate, slice it in wedges and serve it in the pan.

4 large eggs

1 cup vegetables*

2 Tbs. oil

Dash of baking powder

1/3 cup milk or water, or milk + water to equal this amount

Pinch salt

¼ tsp. curry powder

¼ tsp. paprika

Ground pepper to taste

Optional toppings- for example ¼ cup grated cheese or 1 cup tomato sauce.

Cut vegetables to ½ inch size or thin slice *

In a bowl, lightly beat the eggs, with all other ingredients except the oil and the vegetables. Heat the oil in an 8-9 inch skillet over medium.  Turn on the broiler. Sauté the vegetables, or if cooked, turn them over in the oil to coat and warm. Reduce the burner heat to medium-low and pour in the eggs. Cook, gently pulling the eggs away from the sides of the pan, and tilting it to allow the uncooked portion to run into the spaces, until the eggs are fairly set, but still quiver in the center. Put the pan under the broiler, until the top begins to tan and all the eggs are cooked. Add the cheese, if using, before broiling and the sauce as serving. Be sure the skillet handle is oven-proof. Slide the frittata onto a plate to serve.

* If not using leftovers, substitute an equal amount of cooked fresh or frozen vegetables lightly parboiled if necessary.

* ½ cup diced meat can replace ½ cup of the vegetables

Classic Quiche Lorraine: Serves 4
Quiche is a dish that allows a lot of room for variety, yet is quite simple to prepare. If one of these won’t be enough for your family, make two and use different ingredients. Think of it as if you were making pizzas with different toppings.-but here it’s bottoms!
(1) 9 inch deep dish pie shell-store bought is fine– baked
1Tbs. butter
4 oz. sliced mushrooms—(1/2) 8 oz. can will do –optional
1 small onion diced
4 eggs
1 cup light cream or whole milk
½ tsp. dried mustard OR prepared Dijon mustard
1 cup shredded cheese -Swiss usually preferred
Salt and pepper.
8-10 slices bacon cooked and crumbled OR ¼ lb. sliced Deli smoked turkey- chopped
Dash of ground nutmeg
Paprika and dried parsley
Spray skillet with cooking spray and cook bacon until crisp or frizzle smoked turkey and dice. Melt butter in skillet add mushrooms and onion and cook until they render their juice.-about 3 min. Line a 9 inch pie plate with the crust. Put mushrooms, onion and bacon in the bottom of the pie shell and cover with the cheese. Then pour over the eggs beaten until frothy with the milk, mustard and salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with the nutmeg, garnish with the paprika and parsley and bake in a preheated 400 degree oven for 15 min .Reduce heat to 325 degrees and bake for 30 min. more. Allow to stand 5 min. before cutting.

Oven Pancake: Serves 4
6 eggs
1 cup milk
¼ cup butter or margarine melted + extra for topping
1 cup flour
½ tsp. salt
Powdered sugar
Blend first 3 ingredients until smooth. Add flour and salt and blend on medium until smooth.
Pour into a greased 13 x 9 x 2 inch pan and bake at 450 deg. for 20 – 25 min until puffed and golden. Serve from the dish drizzled with melted butter or margarine and dusted with sugar.

Store Purchased Pancakes and Waffles—Upgraded for a Special Day
1)The waffles can be topped the traditional way with butter and syrup but can also be served with the various fruit toppings listed under French Toast.
Sautéed Apple Topping: Serves 4
4 medium apples sliced
2 Tbs. Butter or margarine
2 Tbs. sugar
Dash cinnamon
Sauté apples in butter or margarine for 6 to 8 min. until tender. Stir in sugar and cinnamon.

Pancakes can be served traditionally too but try folding them over fresh fruit slices, or put chopped fruit in the pancakes. Top with a dollop of sour cream, yogurt or cottage cheese. Garnish with powdered sugar if you like.

Cheese Filling: Serves 4
8 pancakes- thawed and warmed if frozen
8 oz. cream cheese
4 + Tbs. milk
1 Tbs. curry powder
½ cup finely chopped toasted almonds, pecans or walnuts + more for garnish
Black pepper
4 Deli slices of meat—turkey, ham or preference
Mix the cheese, curry, pepper and nuts with enough milk to make spreadable. Spread on
4 pancakes, cover with meat, top with second pancake and garnish with nuts.
Variations: 1 cup yogurt, ½ cup drained crushed pineapple for the cheese milk and curry.
Keep the pepper and nuts and use ham.
Use the cheese, milk, nuts and pepper but substitute ginger preserves for the cur

.Sausage Casserole: Serves 10-12 * To be made the night before
2 ½ cups seasoned croutons – Use the boxed ones for salads or a stuffing mix
(1) 1 lb. roll of sausage
4 eggs
2 ¼ cups milk
10 oz. box frozen chopped spinach – thawed
10 oz. can condensed cream of mushroom soup
4 oz. can chopped mushrooms – drained
1cup shredded Cheddar cheese
1 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese
½ tsp. brown mustard
Crumble and cook sausage then drain grease. Grease a 13 x 9 inch metal baking dish; spread croutons in the bottom and top with sausage. Whisk to blend eggs and milk; stir in all the other ingredients and pour over the mix in the dish. Refrigerate overnight. Preheat oven to 325 deg. Bake 50 to 55 min. until set and top is golden. Serve garnished with herbs like parsley or with salsa on the side.
* A Bob Evans recipe

Creamed Beef in Patti Shells: Serves 4
1 pkg. dried beef (3-4 oz.)*
4 Tbs. butter
2 cups milk
1 cup green peas—if frozen thawed
4 oz. can sliced mushrooms – drained
4frozen Patti shells –baked tops reserved OR toast
1/8 tsp. curry powder
Chopped parsley
Pepper to taste
Trim fat from meat and cut in 1 inch pieces. Melt butter in a saucepan, add flour to make a paste, then add milk and stir to a thick sauce. Add spices, mushrooms, peas and meat. Mix well and heat through. Serve hot in Patti shells with tops on an angle, and garnished with parsley.
*Chipped beef has spiraled in rice, rivaling Fillet ignon. Substitute country ham, but, lie bacon, it must be cooked first, or equal amounts of thinly siced deli ham.

Chicken Livers on Eggs with Sherry Sauce: Serves 4.
1 lb. chicken livers
4 oz. can pieces mushrooms stems and
2 Tbs. butter
2 ½ Tbs. flour
2 small carrots peeled and thinly sliced
6-8 oz. frozen pearl onions – thawed
2 Tbs. Teriyaki sauce
2 tsp. poultry seasoning
3 Tbs. cream sherry—or Marsala — to taste
8 eggs
Salt and pepper
Rinse and soak the livers in salted water for 10 min. Rinse and place livers, onions and carrots in a pot with water to cover. Boil until livers are slightly firm. Strain and reserve broth. Rinse livers in cold water. Gently pick fat from livers and divide very large ones. Measure cooled broth and add water to make 2 cups if needed. Whisk flour into cooled broth until dissolved; add spices, sherry, Teriyaki sauce, mushrooms, onions and carrots. Bring to a simmer and stir until sauce is thickened. Fold in livers adjust seasonings and keep warm.
Melt butter in a sauté pan and scramble eggs. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve livers over eggs while hot. Serve at once. Can also be done in a microwave at 1 min. interval

 Hot Chicken Salad; Serves 4
4 chicken thighs or 2 split chicken breasts
1 cup diced celery
½ small onion diced
3 Tbs. slivered toasted almonds
1 Tbs. lemon juice
(½) 4oz.can mushrooms -drained
½ tsp. salt
2/3 cup Hellman’s mayonnaise*
¼ cup grated sharp cheese
1/3 cup toasted croutons
1 Tbs. melted butter
Paprika and dried parsley for garnish
Boil chicken, skin and bone and cut into bite sized pieces (save broth for another use).  Mix in a bowl with the next 7 ingredients. Spread evenly in a flat bottomed, oven-proof dish or casserole. Toss croutons with butter and scatter over the top, sprinkle with cheese.**  Bake in a 450 deg. oven for 30 min.
*Hellman’s is recommended for this because it cooked better than other mayonnaise.
Glamorous Ham Casserole ** can be frozen at this point. Cover top with plastic wrap and seal dish in a plastic bag. Good for 2 weeks
2 cups cooked rice – suggest packaged pre-cooked product, Uncle Ben’s or Zataran’s

2 cups cooked ham in ½ inch dice. About ¾ lb. 3 thick slices from the Deli work fine.

2 eggs beaten

2 plum or small tomatoes in large dice

1/3 cup green bell pepper diced

¼ cup diced onion

1 ½ tsp Dijon or Spicy Brown mustard

1 ½ tsp Worcestershire sauce

½ cup cream sherry

½ cup light cream

½ cup bread crumbs

2 Tbs. melted butter

Paprika and parsley to garnish

The pre-cooked rice packets only take a couple of minutes in the microwave-if you are using leftover rice, or making your own, do not use the minute type. Combine all ingredients, except last three,** in a lightly greased 2 qt. casserole. Stir to mix well. Combine butter and bread crumbs, sprinkle over top. Decorate with parsley and paprika. Bake 350 degrees for 45 min or until nicely browned and bubbly.

NUTS-THE PERFECT GIFT/TREAT

All the demands of the winter holidays make downright stressful to cope with the extra gifts the ‘season of giving’ involves, gifts for business associates, social contacts, to say “greetings” to old friends and ‘Thank You”  for regular assistance. These gifts must be impersonal, yet convey your thoughtfulness, be acceptable, usually to the recipient’s family as well, and their cost indiscernible, ranging from casual to pricy, depending on your presentations. That’s a tall order, especially at today’s inflated prices.

Don’t worry! There’s an inexpensive food which, with minimal skill, effort, time and expense transforms into a product surpassing in taste, freshness and appeal its expensive, gourmet commercial counterparts. Furthermore, depending on the packaging, this item can be elegant enough to impress a client or employer, charming enough to amply say Thank You, and personalized enough to please that special someone. It’s nuts!

Specifically, it’s the nuts featured in boutique gifts, almonds, cashews, pecans, walnuts, pistachios, filberts (or hazelnuts) and macadamias. I’m excluding ‘ground’ nuts because peanuts and Brazil nuts are major allergens. Personally, I’m too sensitive to Brazils to sample a standard party mix, eat commercially baked cookies which might contain their oil or any fruit cake or bread but my own. (Although allergies to the other seven nuts are rare, you can play safe and inquire about the recipient before gifting.)

For this ‘magic’ transformation to work, the nuts have to be raw, shelled, but otherwise unprocessed. Raw nuts are available in most full supermarkets, some specialty food stores and even chain pharmacies but the most dependable way to always find them in quantity and quality is Amazon. They are sold in one pound units, costing, roughly, from $7.00 to $15.00, depending on the type of nut. The same unit, simply roasted and salted, purchased as a gourmet gift can cost from $35.00 to $55.00 +.

Buying the nuts raw and roasting them yourself is the key to the ‘fresh’ attractive appearance and greatly improved taste. Most commercially prepared nuts are seasoned, and preserved, by soaking them in a brine rather than hand salting them. As a result they often appear to have a gray filmy coating rather than a shiny golden color high-lighted by glistening grains of salt which distinguishes the high-end gourmet products.(See ‘Pistachios’ below for more on brining.)

Packaging is also a huge influence on achieving the desired effect. Gourmet products are usually sold in boxes or tins, both of which are easily found in great variety from dollar stores on up the price range. Of course, a special gift might need a more pricy presentation and these particular contents are elegant enough to do justice to any container.

The point is, that with little outlay, learning to process nuts, opens a wide window of gifting possibilities which goes a long way in solving any problems on your holiday list. Actually, I’ve found this useful for other occasions during the year, especially hosting and anniversaries. The best thing is that you can tailor each gift in perceived value to its recipient, without worrisome searching for ‘just the right thing.’

When buying, look for whole, raw, shelled nuts. The shelling is tedious and, if not expertly done, can result in a lot of breakage and consequently loss of money and time. Pistachios are the exception. Their shells pop open on the trees when they ripen, giving options in preparation and presentation explained below.

Macadamias also need a bit of special roasting. Not only do they contain the highest percentage of fat, but they’re air dried before being sold commercially, hence they tend to burn quickly.

Filberts (hazelnuts) and almonds must be skinned . With filberts, it’s done by placing the warm nuts in a dish towel, allowing them to sit for 5-10 min. then rubbing them vigorously in the towel. The skins peel right off. They can then be salted or, if for appearance they should be more golden, return them to the oven for 2-3 min. and then salt them.

Almonds need to be blanched or boiled. Cover them with about 2 inches of water to spare in a pot and bring to boiling for about 3 min. turn off the heat and leave for 3 min. more. Drain the nuts, cool under cold water enough to handle, squeeze and the nut will slide out of the skin, ready for roasting. Allow about 30 min. for this process per pound of nuts.

Pistachios are roasted both in shell and out and can be bought raw both ways.  The actual roasting is the same, so the choice is optional, usually determined by the intended presentation. Generally, in shell they are served solo* and shelled, in a mix. There is, however, a difference in preparation. Out-of-shell they’re salted after roasting like other nuts but in shell they’re soaked in a brine before roasting so the seasoning is on the nut, not the shell. 

To brine: soak the nuts per pound, in 1 cup water, 2 tsp. salt, 1 tsp. citrus juice for 24 hr. Air dry for 24 hr. before roasting according to chart below.
*The dyed pistachios, once imported from Iran, are again available. The bright red shells cupping the green nuts are very decorative and especially festive at this season.

The actual roasting process is straightforward but requires attention because it can be tricky toward the end.  You will need a sheet pan with sides, also called a jelly roll pan, large enough to hold a pound of nuts.(at least 11’x15’) If it isn’t non-stick, cover the bottom with foil. Add 1 tsp. butter* and melt it while the oven is preheating to the desired temperature, according to the chart below. Gently roll the nuts in the butter with a wooden spoon, arranging them in one layer. Repeat this action frequently while the nuts are baking so they brown evenly on both sides. They won’t change color at first, but once they begin to brown, they burn fast. It’s imperative to stay alert and remove the nuts from the oven the instant they reach desired doneness.

*The addition of a bit of fat acts like sun-tan oil. It insures that the browning is even from the start and provides a bit of protection until the nuts’ oil begins to come out. Some instructions call for vegetable or canola oil, but I prefer butter because it browns better and adds a bit of flavor. 

Once roasted, turn the nuts out on a flat surface covered in paper towels, to absorb any excess oil, and sprinkle them liberally with salt, gently turning them to insure the salt reaches both sides. Allow them to cool totally, which will crisp them. Then be sure to store them in air-tight containers.

Raw nuts last for months in their original, commercial packaging, and I found that once opened, refrigeration maintains that shelf life. Roasted and salted, in air-tight containers, stored in a cool, dark, dry place they will keep 4-6 weeks. Moisture ruins the crispness, so don’t refrigerate the roasted ones and be aware, depending on the storage conditions, nuts go rancid quickly. So check them often.

Nuts must be roasted separately according to time and temperature for each type and it’s preferable to store them separately too. They tend to meld tastes and the difference in shapes rubs the salt off. Therefore, to maintain freshness and appearance, it’s best not to combine nuts into a mix until a few days before gifting or serving .

It sounds like a tedious amount of caution, but it’s not. The different batches of nuts are stored as finished and the mixes can be compiled to suit the recipient or guest. Also, this way, one type can be offered alone or used for another purpose.

So if you want an elegant, personalized, tasteful and tasty gift, especially for those on your list who are hard to shop for, or are searching for a gift that is always appropriate, or perhaps need one that is impressive without costing a fortune, here’s the solution to your problem. What’s more, if you have a source, or use Amazon, you can buy it, make it and have it ready to present or serve in 3 days. In addition, it’s been my experience you can gain yourself a bit of ‘star status’ because these are well received and become frequent requests.

RECIPES

Roasted, Salted Nuts:

Follow the directions given above, using the times and temperatures listed on the chart below for each type of nut.
Hazelnuts—250-275deg.—20 min.
Macadamias –225-250 deg.—10-15min.
Pecans 325 deg. -15min
Pistachios 350 deg. 8min.
Walnuts 350deg. -15min.
Cashews 350deg. -15min.
Almonds 350 deg. 20 min.

Mixed Pesto Nuts:

Yield 4 cups
1 ½ cups pecan halves
1 ½ cups blanched almonds
1 cup walnut halves
3 Tbs. oil
2 Tbs. shelled pistachios or pine nuts
2 cloves minced garlic
2/3 cup chopped fresh basil
½ cup Parmesan cheese
½ tsp. salt
Make pesto by processing last 5 ingredients until well blended, slowly add oil until smooth. Preheat oven to 350 deg. and spread nuts out in a 15X 10 x ½ inch pan. Spread pesto over the nuts and bake13-15 min. stirring every 5 min., until toasted. Cool completely on paper towels and package as above.
NOTE: I see no reason why commercially made pesto can’t be used for this recipe.

Candied Nuts:

For 2 ½ cups whole nuts or unbroken halves of walnuts or pecans.
Sugared Pecans or Walnuts:

2 cups shelled pecan or walnut halves
1 cup light brown sugar
1/3 cup melted butter
1 tsp. cinnamon
Preheat oven to 325 deg. Stir all ingredients together and spread on a lightly greased cookie sheet. Bake for 15-20 min. stirring often. Cool on sheet and break apart with a fork. Package as directed above.

Coffee Candied Nuts

½ cup very strong coffee
1 ½ cups sugar
1 Tbs. corn syrup
Cook above ingredients to soft-ball stage = 240 deg. F. Remove from heat, add nuts and gently stir until creamy. Spread on a greased cookie sheet and separate with a fork . Cool and package as directed above.

Orange Candied Nuts:

Substitute ¼ cup orange juice for coffee in the above recipe and add ¼ tsp. cinnamon. Proceed as above.

Glaceed Nuts:

Can coat 1 lb. or more of nuts, but excess coating can’t be saved for re-use.

2 cups sugar
1 cup boiling water
1/8 tsp. Cream of Tartar
Heat ingredients in the top pan of a double-boiler on low, stirring until sugar dissolves. Then allow to boil unstirred until syrup reached hard-boil stage= 300 deg. F. Place pan over one of warm water to prevent hardening and quickly dip nuts. Remove them with a fork or slotted spoon to dry on waxed paper. Allow to dry and harden before moving for packaging.

PAN SAUCE-A COOK’S PAL

Two weeks ago (Nov.16, 2023) my posting was about gravies and it seems only fair that time be given to their alter-egos, sauces, especially with the holiday season ahead. Many party recipes rely on sauces and a general knowledge of making them can turn a ho-hum dish into something special, especially for unexpected guests or impromptu gatherings.

In the earlier posting, I explained that both gravy and sauce are fluids served with a featured ingredient to enhance its flavor and/or texture and both can be made from a base of ”roux” or “slurry”. I gave detailed instructions for both processes in the post cited above, just click the link. The difference is that gravy is created from essence derived from cooking the main ingredient of a dish, be it animal or vegetable. This is why using the drippings from a roast is called Pan Gravy, not Pan Sauce even if done in a pot on stovetop or simply served as Au Jus. Italians are correct in calling what we refer to as Tomato Sauce, Tomato Gravy. It’s made from the pulp or meat of tomatoes. A sauce is constructed by mixing entirely separate ingredients from the main one. Hence gravies are mainly associated with the entrée, whereas sauces appear with every course, cover a far wider range and can be made in many ways other than the basic roux and slurry.”

In my book SAVVY SAUCES and GRAVIES I explain that Sauces exist in infinite variety and are extremely versatile. A working knowledge of their basics is a real asset in the kitchen. Many sauces are familiar to us and regularly used; melted butter can be a sauce, but so are mayonnaise, pancake syrup and dessert toppings. Sauces range from the simple to the complex, yet often encountering the word on a menu conveys sophistication. This is the secret charm of sauces. They can be taken for granted or add instant glamour to the ordinary. They can dress up a dish, moisten a dry one, transform leftovers or even provide the basis for the whole recipe. Sauces made by deglazing the sauté pan with added ingredients are in this category.

A full explanation of sauces will aid in clarifying food articles, including restaurant reviews, help in choosing recipes to try and in decoding menu options when eating out. This last advantage could be important for those on diets. A working knowledge of sauces allows adjustments to be made for dietary requirements, but restaurants, striving for professional ratings, stick to classic renditions and full strength sauces are not diet friendly. The truth is most basic sauces are easy to make and familiarity with them is a valuable tool. So let’s discuss a few of the simpler ones, ways they can be altered for different uses and directions for making them.

The simplest sauces are GLAZES, made by melting a food in its solid state, for example jelly, or sugar, over low heat while adding a liquid, usually flavored, such as juice or wine, to transform it into a pourable consistency and alter its taste to compliment the flavor of the dish it accompanies. If the dish is roasted, the glaze may be added during the cooking and will usually be mentioned on the menu.

Only slightly more complicated are REDUCTIONS. Here a liquid like broth, stock, wine or juice is simmered (cooked just under low boil) until the water content evaporates reducing the volume, thickening the consistency and intensifying the flavor. Reductions can be started over a base of cooking vegetables, a canned broth, even a deglazed pan. Often they need to be strained to smooth them and a pat of butter added at the end will give them a silky finish.

COULIS is a sauce made by cooking the meat of vegetables or fruit, then pureeing and straining it, often adding spices or herbs. These days it would seem more of a condiment, usually encountered dribbled over a dish or decoratively around a plate rim. This includes, returning to the tomato discussion, the jarred or canned tomato “sauce “dear to many generations of spaghetti lovers is as opposed to the heartier tomato “gravy”.

Sauces using a thickening agent are probably the widest varied group. There are three major thickening agents, egg yolks, flour and cornstarch. Arrowroot and tapioca are sometimes mentioned in recipes, but to keep the pantry simple, as I mentioned above, I don’t use them, substituting either flour or cornstarch.

EGG thickened sauces generally follow the same procedure. The yolks are beaten in a bowl and the other ingredients are heated on a stove. A bit of the hot liquid is poured into the eggs to warm them and prevent them scrambling when introduced to the heat as they’re added to the pot. Then the mixture is stirred constantly to prevent curdling until it thickens to the desired consistency. Because of the hazards associated with raw eggs, it’s wise to avoid the “No Cook” recipes for these sauces, but there are plenty of excellent powdered ones available for those short on time.

This opens the door for a look into the world of classic sauces. According to French tradition, there are 5 WARM “Mother” sauces, 2 COLD “Mother” sauces and 1 in a category of its own; for a total of 8 sauces. A “Mother” sauce is one whose taste is integral to the dish(es) with which it is served and be can be modified to create several other sauces, some of which can be further modified to create a third generation of sauces; grandchildren as it were. Sauces can even form the basis of a dish such as Lobster Newburg or Chicken a la King.

I want to discuss these classics with you, but let’s save that for anther posting or this will run way too long. Right now let’s look at other types which will be the more likely to appear on your menu this holiday. Glazes, Reductions and Coulis are all pretty straightforward as well as being more opportunistic choices, dependent on what is available, or appealing at the moment, rather than a classic pairing. They can be planned ahead, such as a ham glaze, or result from last minute ideas resulting from pantry supplies, such as a reduction or coulis to perk up a dessert. The best way to master them is to experiment with a few, learn, how simple they are and stash the knowledge in your culinary tool kit.

Pan sauces are the most versatile and, in my kitchen, frequently used type. I make them for all sorts of meats and fish, especially leftovers, no matter how I cook them, except roasting. Last week in writing about turkey leftovers I included a link to a recipe for Turkey in Orange Sauce, which I repeat below. I have used this sauce on chicken, pork and a variation on salmon by adding a bit of Marsala, but Bourbon would do as well. This is just a small example of the ways in which these sauces can be modified to fit the food they compliment.

I find the simplest way to start a pan sauce and to add a bit of flavor is by using the oil and/or butter in which I’ve cooked the meat, or if using leftovers, melting a bit of butter with oil in the pan, and sautéing diced onion until soft, before adding juice and/or wine and/or broth and any other ingredients and seasonings and/or flavorings. Then I return the meat to the pan and let it simmer in the sauce for about 10 min. to let the flavors absorb. My usual calculations for two are to use 1 Tbs. each butter and oil and ½ cup liquid. Flavorings and seasonings are dependent on purpose, ingredients and taste.

I also make these sauces when baking meats or fish. I melt the oil and butter in the pan, then mix the liquid sauce ingredients, with seasonings and/or flavorings in a cup and pour half over meat or fish before baking and the rest just before finishing. When doing this I reduce the oil and butter each to half quantity. That was the method I used in making this week’s photo recipe, which is a fillet of salmon with a teaspoon of mustard on top, wrapped in a slice of ham and baked at 350 deg. for 20-25 min. using the orange sauce in the next recipe.

Here again is the basic recipe for (Leftover) Turkey in Orange Sauce followed by some suggestions for variations. Remember all these recipes work just as well with fresh meat sautéed in the pan first.

TURKEY in ORANGE SAUCE – Serves 4
4 portions of large pieces of frozen turkey thawed
1 medium-small onion diced fine
1 Tbs. oil
1/3 cup frozen orange juice concentrate*
1 ½ cups white wine*
1 Tbs. soy sauce or to taste
orange marmalade or brown sugar to taste
3 Tbs. match stick pieces of orange rind ½ inch long
Sauté the onion in the oil until soft, about 3 min. Add the juice, wine, soy sauce and orange rind. Stir to mix well and taste to adjust flavors adding marmalade or sugar if needed. This sauce should be tangy. Add the meat to the pan and simmer for about 10 min. to infuse the flavors. Serve hot.
* equal amounts of fresh orange juice can be substituted, but it’s best to dissolve ½ tsp. of cornstarch in the liquid first, and stir until slightly thickened before adjusting seasoning or adding the meat.

This technique works well substituting ½ cup, or to taste, leftover whole cranberry sauce for the frozen orange juice concentrate, mixing it with the wine and omitting the soy sauce and marmalade. The orange rind is optional.

Variations:

1) After sautéing the onion in the oil, substitute 2 cups Madera for Marsala with 1 tsp. cornstarch dissolved in it. Add with meat and gently stir until sauce thickens. Serve at once.

2) Substitute white wine for the others mentioned above. Add 1tsp. dried Tarragon and 8-12 raw shrimp with the meat and stir until shrimp is pink and sauce thickens about 3 min.

3) Add ½ cup roughly chopped reconstituted sun-dried tomatoes and ½ tsp. dried oregano to the pan with the wine and stir to partially thicken sauce. Add meat and heat through as sauce
finishes thickening. Remove from heat and add 1/3 cup sour cream. Gently stir over medium-low heat only until warmed through. Be careful, if it boils it will curdle. Serve at once.
4) Substitute 2 Tbs. Red raspberry jam + ¼ cup white wine or apple juice, with a drop of lemon juice added, for the other ingredients. Add the meat and simmer about 6 min to infuse flavor. This dish perks up with a good dash of black pepper.